A photosensitive glossy fabric and a manufacturing process thereof

Abstract

The present application relates to the technical field of textile fabric, in particular to a kind of sense of gloss fabric and manufacturing process;Gong sense of gloss fabric includes warp and weft, and Gong sense of gloss fabric is formed by warp and weft interlaced pressing blend;The present application is woven to form warp by first warp base line, second warp base line and third warp base line, then it is woven to form weft by first weft base line, second weft base line and third weft base line, and warp and weft are interlaced pressing blend, and the grey cloth is obtained, the compact structure of grey cloth is not easy to loosen, can adapt to the large-scale movement of people, at the same time, it is convenient to dye and has high elasticity, good open porosity, also make fabric have good comfort, in addition, the manufacturing process provided by the present application, the fabric made has the glossiness of Gong cloth after thousands of hammering and tempering, at the same time, it has soft hand feeling, light and thin texture, good drapability, wearing dry and comfortable, rich in gloss, color tone elegant and other characteristics.

Description

A Dong-style glossy fabric and its manufacturing process Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile fabric technology, specifically to a Dong-style luster fabric and its manufacturing process. Background Technology

[0002] "Dong cloth" is the most beloved clothing material for Dong men and women. The cloth produced by the Dong people is divided into coarse and fine yarn. Coarse yarn cloth woven into a twill pattern is mostly used as the lining of cotton clothing; the plain cloth woven into fine yarn is divided into two types: cloth woven into a checkered square pattern is called "shuangtang cloth", and cloth woven into a net pattern is called "miange".

[0003] Dong cloth is made by repeatedly soaking and dyeing two types of woven fabric with a mixture of indigo, white wine, cowhide juice, and egg white, followed by steaming, drying, and pounding. Due to its complex production process, Dong cloth is very precious, and the Dong people not only use it themselves but also give it as a gift to guests.

[0004] In recent years, with the improvement of textile technology and the demands of the textile industry, island-type composite microfiber has become one of the important new textile materials. Island-type composite microfiber, also known as island fiber, is also called superconjugated fiber or matrix fibrillary fiber.

[0005] Island-type composite microfiber utilizes two polymers with different properties as the "island" and "sea" components, respectively. These are fed separately into an extruder in varying proportions, where they are melt-extruded through two screws. The two sets of melts then enter a composite spinning assembly via two metering pumps and melt pipelines, exiting from the island-type composite spinneret. After cooling, they form island-type composite precursor fibers. A special chemical solvent is then used to dissolve the "sea" component in the precursor fibers, leaving the "island" component, which is the composite microfiber. The "sea" component can be recycled. The superior properties of island-type fibers are unmatched by other ordinary fibers; therefore, how to utilize island-type fibers to produce Dong-style lustrous fabrics has become a crucial issue urgently needing to be addressed by my country's textile industry.

[0006] Therefore, the present invention provides a Dong-style glossy fabric and manufacturing process to solve the aforementioned related technical problems. Summary of the Invention

[0007] The purpose of this invention is to provide a Dong-style glossy fabric and its manufacturing process. The fabric structure of this invention is compact and not easily loosened, which can adapt to a large range of human movement. At the same time, it is easy to dye and has high elasticity and good porosity, which also makes the fabric comfortable. In addition, the fabric produced has the gloss of Dong cloth after being shaped and refined, while also being soft to the touch, lightweight, with good drape, dry and comfortable to wear, and has a glossy and elegant color.

[0008] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention provides the following technical solution:

[0009] One aspect of the present invention is to provide a Dong-style glossy fabric, which includes warp and weft yarns and is made by interlacing and pressing the warp and weft yarns together. The warp yarns include a first warp baseline, a second warp baseline, and a third warp baseline. The second and third warp baselines are evenly interlaced and wound around the first warp baseline. The weft yarns include a first weft baseline, a second weft baseline, and a third weft baseline. The first and second weft baselines are twisted together to form a center line, and the third weft baseline is wound around the center line.

[0010] A further feature of this invention is that both the warp and weft threads are made of island-sea yarn.

[0011] A further feature of the present invention is that the porosity of the Dong-style glossy fabric is 2% to 5%.

[0012] A second aspect of the present invention provides a manufacturing process for a Dong-style glossy fabric, characterized by comprising the following steps:

[0013] I. The warp and weft threads are woven using a braiding machine, and then blended and woven using a blending machine to obtain the grey fabric;

[0014] II. The obtained fabric is dyed and finished, including pretreatment and dyeing processes.

[0015] III. After dyeing and finishing, the fabric is simultaneously pressed by two pressure rollers to create a mirror effect on the fabric surface, thereby improving the smoothness and reflectivity of the fabric surface.

[0016] IV. The calendered fabric is then subjected to a washing process.

[0017] V. Repeat steps II and IV to obtain the Dong-style glossy fabric.

[0018] The present invention is further configured such that the preprocessing in step II includes the following:

[0019] Desizing and refining;

[0020] Relaxation and pre-defined patterns;

[0021] Alkali reduction fiber opening.

[0022] A further feature of the present invention is that the predetermined temperature is 180°C to 190°C.

[0023] The present invention is further configured such that the staining process includes the following:

[0024] Dyeing process;

[0025] Dye selection.

[0026] The present invention is further configured such that step II and step IV are repeated 2 to 3 times in step V.

[0027] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are:

[0028] This invention uses a first warp line, a second warp line, and a third warp line to weave warp threads, and then uses a first weft line, a second weft line, and a third weft line to weave weft threads. The warp and weft threads are interwoven and pressed together to obtain a grey fabric. The grey fabric has a compact structure that is not easily loosened, can accommodate a wide range of human movement, is easy to dye, has high elasticity, and a good open area ratio, which also makes the fabric very comfortable. In addition, the manufacturing process provided by this invention produces a fabric that has the luster of Dong cloth after being sculpted through repeated hammering, while also being soft to the touch, lightweight, has good drape, is dry and comfortable to wear, and has a beautiful sheen and elegant color. It has broad application prospects and is worth promoting. Attached Figure Description

[0029] To more clearly illustrate the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention or the prior art, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments or the prior art will be briefly introduced below. Obviously, the drawings described below are only some embodiments of the present invention. For those skilled in the art, other drawings can be obtained based on these drawings without creative effort.

[0030] Figure 1 is a structural schematic diagram of a Dong-style glossy fabric according to the present invention;

[0031] Figure 2 is a schematic diagram of the warp structure in a Dong-style glossy fabric of the present invention;

[0032] Figure 3 is a schematic diagram of the weft yarn structure in a Dong-style glossy fabric of the present invention.

[0033] Legend: 100, meridian; 110, first meridian baseline; 120, second meridian baseline; 130, third meridian baseline; 200, parallel; 210, first parallel of latitude; 220, second parallel of latitude; 230, third parallel of latitude. Detailed Implementation

[0034] The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0035] Example

[0036] As shown in Figures 1 to 3, the present invention provides a Dong-style glossy fabric, which includes warp yarns 100 and weft yarns 200. The Dong-style glossy fabric is made by interlacing and pressing the warp yarns 100 and weft yarns 200 together. The warp yarns 100 include a first warp line 110, a second warp line 120 and a third warp line 130. The second warp line 120 and the third warp line 130 are interlaced and wound around the first warp line 110. The weft yarns 200 include a first weft line 210, a second weft line 220 and a third weft line 230. The first weft line 210 and the second weft line 220 are twisted together to form a center line, and the third weft line 230 is wound around the center line.

[0037] Furthermore, both the 100 warp and 200 weft threads are made of island-island silk.

[0038] Furthermore, the porosity of the Dong-style glossy fabric is 2% to 5%.

[0039] In this embodiment, it should be noted that "island-type ultrafine composite fiber" is a common name for a type of fiber where one polymer is dispersed within another, creating an "island" structure in the fiber cross-section, while the parent phase represents the "sea." From the fiber's cross-section, one component is surrounded by another in a finely dispersed state, resembling numerous islands in the sea. The ultrafine nature of island-type fibers results in a larger radius of curvature, leading to a higher proportion of reflected and scattered light points, resulting in a softer color tone after dyeing. Warp 100 is formed by weaving the first warp line 110, the second warp line 120, and the third warp line 130, and weft 200 is formed by weaving the first weft line 210, the second weft line 220, and the third weft line 230. The warp and weft lines 100 are then interwoven and pressed together to obtain the grey fabric. This grey fabric has a compact structure that is not easily loosened, allowing it to adapt to large movements of the body. It is also easy to dye, has high elasticity, and a good open-pore ratio, contributing to its excellent comfort.

[0040] Furthermore, the present invention also provides a manufacturing process for a Dong-style glossy fabric, characterized by comprising the following steps:

[0041] I. The warp yarns are 100 and the weft yarns are 200 using a weaving machine, and then the fabric is blended and woven using a blending machine to obtain the grey fabric.

[0042] II. The obtained fabric is dyed and finished, including pretreatment and dyeing processes.

[0043] The preprocessing process includes the following:

[0044] Desizing and refining:

[0045] Sea island yarns have a larger scale and surface area, resulting in greater sizing and oiling. The sizing amount (approximately 4%–6%) is about twice that of conventional fibers (approximately 3%), and the oiling amount (2.0%–4.0%) is nearly three times that of conventional fibers (0.5%–1.0%). The sizing and oiling agents must be completely removed before pre-forming (generally, residual oil content is low).

[0046] Relaxation and Pre-set:

[0047] Relaxation treatment allows island-type microfiber fabrics to shrink effectively to achieve a good sense of fluffiness. During relaxation treatment, the fabric is completely in a tension-free state. After being subjected to wet and dry heat, the fibers shrink differently, thereby improving the fabric's resilience, smoothness, and fluffiness.

[0048] Furthermore, the predetermined temperature is 180℃~190℃.

[0049] If the temperature is too low, wrinkles on the fabric will not be easily removed, the fabric will have poor wrinkle resistance, and it will be prone to dyeing defects. The fabric width will not be stable enough, and it will affect the feel and style. If the temperature is too high, the fabric will become stiff, making it more difficult to reduce the amount of alkali, and it will also produce color edge dyeing defects.

[0050] Alkali reduction fiber opening:

[0051] Opening island-type microfibers requires dissolving or decomposing the sea component to obtain extremely fine island fibers. Alkali is commonly used to dissolve the sea component, causing it to hydrolyze into water-soluble substances, thus achieving fiber opening, while the island fibers are rarely damaged. It's not only necessary to remove the sea fiber through photolysis, but also to prevent damage to the island fibers, while also paying attention to the damage and shrinkage of high-shrinkage fibers. The quality of fiber opening greatly affects subsequent processing, especially dyeing and napping. After complete opening, each yarn contains thousands of microfibers, making it extremely soft and breathable, and forming a dense pile on the fabric surface after napping. Different island-type fibers, the ratio of island to sea components, spinning temperature, cooling and forming conditions, and stretching and winding conditions all affect the ease of fiber opening, thus requiring different opening conditions. While using caustic soda as a fiber-opening agent is faster, it is more difficult to control. As the sea component dissolves, the island component is also hydrolyzed, especially the island fibers that are opened first, which undergo hydrolytic peeling. Such products not only have poor strength, but also poor pile fullness, elasticity, dyeing brightness, and color fastness. Furthermore, their processing stability and reproducibility are also poor. Therefore, the selection of multiple alkali agents, the addition of appropriate surfactants, and the control of temperature and time are all crucial for fiber opening.

[0052] Weight loss is usually controlled by measuring the weight loss rate. Due to the effect of alkali, there may be multiple sources of weight loss, including residual sizing agents and oils on the fabric (in small amounts), dissolution of marine components, hydrolysis and peeling of island components in PET, and high-shrinkage PET fibers are more prone to hydrolysis and weight loss. The latter two types of weight loss should be prevented. The weight loss rate is generally controlled between 20% and 25%.

[0053] The staining process includes the following:

[0054] Dyeing process:

[0055] Many factors influence the dyeing performance of fibers and textiles, including the fiber's chemical structure (chemical composition, degree of polymerization, etc.) and supramolecular structure (crystallinity, aggregation direction, size and distribution of amorphous regions, etc.). Secondly, morphological structure (fiber thickness, cross-sectional shape, core-sheath structure, etc.) plays a role. Fine fibers have a large specific surface area; when the linear density is less than 1 ldtex, the specific surface area increases exponentially. Therefore, adsorption and diffusion times are shorter. Dyeing speed is faster at lower temperatures, and significant dyeing occurs above 50℃ (typically, PET requires above 90℃ for faster dyeing); the maximum dyeing temperature is also lower, approximately 120℃~125℃ (130℃ for ordinary PET), and dyeing is highly temperature-dependent. Due to the fast dyeing speed, level dyeing is poor; of course, level dyeing is also related to uneven fiber linear density and insufficient / uneven fiber opening. The latter is more difficult to address, while the former requires controlling the rate of temperature increase after the initial dyeing temperature. In the 50℃~85℃ range (close to the fiber glass transition temperature Tg), maintain a heating rate of 1℃ / min, and hold at 85℃~90℃ for a certain time (5~10min) to allow the dye to fully migrate on the surface before it diffuses extensively into the fiber interior. The large surface area facilitates surface dye migration and significantly improves evenness. Between 90℃~110℃, further slow the heating rate to 0.5℃ / min, and hold at 110℃ for a period, as the dye diffusion is fastest in the 110℃~115℃ range. Then, slowly increase the temperature (around 1℃ / min) to reach the maximum dyeing temperature, followed by an appropriate holding time. Temperature control conditions vary depending on the type of island-type microfiber. Finally, cool to below 70℃ to release the dye. This improves the fabric's hand feel, reduces wrinkles, and also allows a small amount of oligomers in the polyester fiber to fall into the dye bath and adhere to the fabric surface, causing dyeing defects.

[0056] The color rendering of island-type microfiber is lower than that of ordinary polyester fiber, mainly because the fibers are finer, have a larger specific surface area, and exhibit stronger light reflection and scattering. Microfiber is much lighter in color than coarse denier fibers with the same dye concentration; to achieve the same color depth, the dye concentration of microfiber must be much higher than that of ordinary fibers. Furthermore, its color vibrancy is also lower. For the same reason, the colorfastness of microfiber textiles, including lightfastness, washfastness, and sublimation fastness, is also lower. Because of the larger specific surface area, more dye is adsorbed on the fiber surface, increasing the total exposure, and light easily penetrates into the fiber interior, making the internal dyes prone to fading. Generally, higher dye concentration corresponds to higher lightfastness, but the opposite is true for microfiber. For the same reason, the fibers are prone to thermal migration when heated, with dye migrating more significantly from the fiber interior to the surface than in ordinary fibers, thus causing a decrease in colorfastness after heat setting. To address these two issues, it is essential to select suitable disperse dyes to improve color depth and colorfastness.

[0057] Dye selection:

[0058] Basic requirements for disperse dyes used in dyeing island-type polyester microfiber: Excellent leveling and reproducibility; high color yield and raising power, easily achieving deep and rich colors; excellent light fastness for light and medium colors and excellent wet fastness for medium and dark colors. The leveling performance of disperse dyes on island-type polyester microfiber can be assessed by initial dyeing rate, migration rate, and leveling degree (Sr value). Increased dyeing rate is particularly evident in high initial dyeing rate. If the dye begins to migrate in large quantities at lower temperatures (below 0°C), it is detrimental to leveling. The initial dyeing rate of the same disperse dye on island-type microfiber is 1-3 times higher than that on conventional fibers, and different disperse dyes also show significant differences in initial dyeing rate on island-type microfiber. Therefore, to achieve good leveling performance, in addition to using appropriate dyeing processes and selecting excellent leveling agents, it is even more important to select disperse dyes with low initial dyeing rates but high final dyeing rates.

[0059] III. After dyeing and finishing, the fabric is simultaneously pressed by two pressure rollers to create a mirror effect on the fabric surface, thereby improving the smoothness and reflectivity of the fabric surface.

[0060] In this embodiment, it should be noted that the simultaneous pressure from both upper and lower rollers creates a mirror effect on the fabric surface, thereby improving its smoothness and reflective properties. The lower roller is a rubber roller (soft roller) whose temperature can reach over 200 degrees Celsius, resulting in a more lustrous finish, similar to mirror leather or patent leather.

[0061] IV. The calendered fabric is then subjected to a washing process.

[0062] In this embodiment, it should be noted that the fabric will be relatively stiff, flat and lack natural luster after calendering. Therefore, it needs to undergo a washing process. After such treatment, the surface tone and luster of the fabric will be softer, and it will feel softer and more drapey to the touch.

[0063] V. Repeat steps II and IV to obtain the Dong-style glossy fabric.

[0064] Furthermore, in step V, steps II and IV are repeated 2 to 3 times.

[0065] In this embodiment, it should be noted that the gloss will be reduced after washing and will not achieve the gloss of the Dong cloth surface. Therefore, steps II and IV will be repeated 2 to 3 times to achieve the final effect.

[0066] In the description of this specification, references to terms such as "an embodiment," "example," "specific example," etc., indicate that a specific feature, structure, material, or characteristic described in connection with that embodiment or example is included in at least one embodiment or example of the invention. In this specification, illustrative expressions of the above terms do not necessarily refer to the same embodiment or example. Furthermore, the specific features, structures, materials, or characteristics described may be combined in any suitable manner in one or more embodiments or examples.

[0067] The preferred embodiments of the present invention disclosed above are merely illustrative of the invention. These preferred embodiments do not exhaustively describe all details, nor do they limit the invention to the specific implementations described. Clearly, many modifications and variations can be made based on the content of this specification. This specification selects and specifically describes these embodiments to better explain the principles and practical applications of the invention, thereby enabling those skilled in the art to better understand and utilize the invention. The invention is limited only by the claims and their full scope and equivalents.

Claims

1. A manufacturing process for a Dong-style luster fabric, characterized in that, The Dong-style glossy fabric includes warp yarns (100) and weft yarns (200), and is made by interlacing and pressing the warp yarns (100) and weft yarns (200) together. The warp yarns (100) include a first warp line (110), a second warp line (120), and a third warp line (130). The second warp line (120) and the third warp line (130) are evenly interlaced and wound around the first warp line (110). The weft yarns (200) include a first weft line (210), a second weft line (220), and a third weft line (230). The first weft line (210) and the second weft line (220) are twisted together to form a center line, and the third weft line (230) is wound around the center line. On the center line; the warp (100) and weft (200) are both made of island silk; the manufacturing process includes the following steps: I. Weaving the warp (100) and weft (200) using a weaving machine, and then blending and weaving them using a blending machine to obtain the greige fabric; II. Dyeing and finishing the obtained greige fabric, wherein the dyeing and finishing process includes a pretreatment process and a dyeing process; the pretreatment includes: desizing and refining; relaxation and pre-setting; alkali reduction and fiber opening; III. Pressing the dyed and finished greige fabric through two pressure rollers simultaneously to produce a mirror effect on the fabric surface, thereby improving the smoothness and reflectivity of the fabric surface; IV. Washing the calendered greige fabric; V. Repeating steps II to IV to obtain a Dong-style glossy fabric.

2. The Dong-style glossy fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The porosity of the Dong-style glossy fabric is 2% to 5%.

3. The manufacturing process of a Dong-style glossy fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that: The predetermined temperature is 180℃~190℃.

4. The manufacturing process of a Dong-style luster fabric according to claim 3, characterized in that, The staining process includes the following: Dyeing process; Dye selection.

5. The manufacturing process of a Dong-style glossy fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: Step V is repeated 2 to 3 times from step II to step IV.

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