Mild polyacid essence with barrier repairing effect and preparation method thereof
By using a combination of salicylic acid, gluconolactone and lactic acid in polyacid cosmetics and adjusting pH with sodium hydroxide, the problems of product irritability and stability are solved, and the preparation of gentle polyacid essence is achieved. , has significant oil control, acne removal and repair effects.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202411410775.6
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-10-10
- Publication Date
- 2024-12-06
AI Technical Summary
Existing polyacid cosmetic products may be irritating after use, affecting the user's experience, and the lack of effective pH regulators leads to product instability.
A gentle polyacid essence liquid is prepared by using a polyacid system including salicylic acid, gluconolactone and lactic acid, and using strong alkaline sodium hydroxide as a pH regulator. , to balance pH and stabilize components.
It achieves the gentle and non-irritating effect of the product, improves the skin's oil control, acne removal and repair effects, and improves the skin barrier function, enhances the product's comfort and storage stability.
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Figure CN119074577A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to the field of A61K8, and specifically to a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repairing effect and a preparation method thereof. Background Art
[0002] In recent years, the cosmetics industry has continued to develop rapidly around the world, especially in China. With the improvement of consumer purchasing power and the enhancement of beauty awareness, the cosmetics market has shown a booming trend. This trend has promoted the continuous investment of cosmetics companies in technology research and development and product innovation. At present, consumers have certain demands for cosmetics in addition to the basic whitening and moisturizing effects, as well as the effects of acne removal, oil control, and repair.
[0003] Acidic substances have the effects of whitening, antibacterial, moisturizing, oil control and exfoliation in cosmetic products; the prior art CN114652645A discloses a salicylic acid conditioning frozen mask and a preparation method thereof, wherein the preparation raw materials include salicylic acid, carboxyl compounds and gluconic acid derivatives, wherein the carboxyl compounds include one or more of glycolic acid, lactic acid and lactobionic acid; the gluconic acid derivative is gluconolactone, and the product has nanobiological effects such as hair follicle targeting and hair follicle reservoir, and can effectively solve skin problems; however, under the polyacid system, the preparation raw materials do not include a pH regulator that stabilizes the acid-base balance of the system, and the product may have a certain irritation after use, resulting in a decrease in the comfort of use. Summary of the invention
[0004] In order to solve the above technical problems, the first aspect of the present invention provides a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect, and the preparation raw materials include: phase A, phase B, and phase C; wherein the preparation raw materials of phase A include: moisturizer, first acid component, second acid component; the preparation raw materials of phase B include: third acid component, pH adjuster; the preparation raw materials of phase C include: functional substances and preservatives.
[0005] Phase A
[0006] Preferably, in the raw materials for preparing phase A, the mass ratio of the humectant, the first acid component, and the second acid component is (50-95): (0.5-2): (5-15).
[0007] Preferably, the moisturizing agent includes: one or more of water, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, methylpropanediol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol, dipropylene glycol, sorbitol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, polyethylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, β-glucan, carboxymethyl chitosan, tremella polysaccharide, algae, mannitol, and betaine.
[0008] Further preferably, the moisturizing agent comprises: water, methylpropanediol and 1,3-butylene glycol.
[0009] Preferably, the first acid component includes: one of salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and lactic acid.
[0010] Preferably, the second acid component comprises: one of salicylic acid, gluconolactone and lactic acid.
[0011] Phase B
[0012] Preferably, in the raw material for preparing phase B, the mass ratio of the third acid component to the pH adjuster is (4-12): (1-4).
[0013] Preferably, the pH regulator comprises: sodium hydroxide and / or arginine.
[0014] More preferably, the pH adjuster is sodium hydroxide.
[0015] In the present invention, since the raw materials for preparation include the first acid component, the second acid component and the third acid component, which belong to the polyacid system, the mild polyacid essence can be expected to produce certain irritation to the skin after use, affecting the user's product experience. Therefore, the raw materials for preparation of the mild polyacid essence in the system of the present invention must also include a pH regulator to achieve the effect of mild and non-irritating products. However, the inventors found in the actual research and development process that not all pH regulators are suitable for the raw material system of the present invention, such as arginine, because its alkalinity in the solution is weak, the amount used is large when neutralizing polyacids, and the skin feels sticky. In addition, the use of arginine is not conducive to the stability of the pH of the product and may cause irritation. When strongly alkaline sodium hydroxide is selected as the pH regulator, not only the product is milder and the skin feels refreshing, but also the storage stability of the raw materials is significantly improved.
[0016] Preferably, the third acid component includes: one of salicylic acid, gluconolactone and lactic acid.
[0017] Further preferably, the specific substances of the first acid component, the second acid component and the third acid component are all different.
[0018] More preferably, the first acid component is salicylic acid, the second acid component is gluconolactone, and the third acid component is lactic acid.
[0019] More preferably, the mass ratio of salicylic acid, gluconolactone and lactic acid is (1-4):(10-30):(4-12).
[0020] Salicylic acid is an oil-soluble component that can penetrate into lipid-rich pores, dissolve oil and clean the skin, effectively control skin oil secretion, and thus help treat skin problems such as acne and blackheads; at the same time, salicylic acid has a keratin-dissolving effect, can penetrate into the surface layer of the skin, dissolve stratum corneum lipids and desmosomes, promote cell renewal, make the skin smoother and brighter, reduce pore blockage and blackhead formation, and improve skin texture; however, excessive salicylic acid may lead to excessive exfoliation of the skin, making the skin's defenses worse and prone to dry and cracked skin; the present invention finds that in a system where salicylic acid is present, Adding a certain amount of lactic acid and gluconolactone to the salicylic acid system can improve the skin problems caused by salicylic acid, mainly because lactic acid and gluconolactone can promote lipid synthesis and have a moisturizing effect on the skin. In addition, the combination of lactic acid and gluconolactone can also inhibit the irritation caused by the hydroxy acid salicylic acid, avoiding the problems of dryness, cracking and irritation caused by traditional acid scrubbing, while gently exfoliating the keratin, repairing the skin barrier function; in addition, the inventors have found that when salicylic acid, gluconolactone and lactic acid work synergistically, the skin feel of the product can be significantly improved, and it has the effects of oil control, moisturizing, acne removal and repair.
[0021] Phase C
[0022] Preferably, in the raw materials for preparing phase C, the mass ratio of the functional substance to the preservative is (1-4): (1-2).
[0023] Further preferably, the effective substances include: one or more of glabridin, tranexamic acid, yeast extract, niacinamide, arbutin, yeast extract, phenethylresorcinol, plant extract, ectoine, vitamin C and ergothioneine.
[0024] Further preferably, the preservative includes: one or more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, and caprylyl glycol.
[0025] The second aspect of the present invention provides a method for preparing a mild multi-acid essence having a barrier repairing effect, comprising:
[0026] S1. Mix the raw materials of phase A, heat to 55-60°C with stirring, keep warm for 0.5-1h and then cool down;
[0027] S2. Cool down to 40-45°C, add the raw materials of phase B, and stir until all dissolved and evenly dispersed;
[0028] S3. Cool down to 35-38℃, add Phase C raw materials, stir and disperse evenly to obtain mild multi-acid essence.
[0029] In the present invention, the raw materials of phase A are all heatable components, that is, they still have high stability at high temperature, which is conducive to the uniform mixing of the raw materials, but at the same time, the heating temperature of phase A needs to be controlled, mainly because gluconolactone will slowly hydrolyze to form gluconic acid in the solution, the hydrolysis process is reversible, and gluconolactone and gluconic acid will exist in the solution at the same time. When under the condition of 55-60°C, the hydrolysis of gluconolactone and gluconic acid can quickly reach a dynamic equilibrium, which is conducive to the stability of the raw material system. At the same time, the heating temperature cannot be too high, because high temperature under acidic conditions will cause salicylic acid to decompose into toxic substances such as phenols, so the heating temperature should be strictly controlled at 55-60°C to ensure its dissolution. After phase A is heated, the cooling treatment is carried out again, mainly because lactic acid, nicotinamide, etc. may decompose at a high temperature of 55-60°C, but the cooling temperature should not be too low, otherwise it will cause excessive production energy consumption and increase production costs.
[0030] Beneficial Effects
[0031] (i) The raw materials for preparing the mild multi-acid essence of the present invention include a first acid component, a second acid component and a third acid component. The multi-acid system is conducive to the product having better whitening and skin care effects.
[0032] (ii) The raw materials for preparing the mild polyacid essence in the present invention must include an alkaline pH regulator, among which strongly alkaline sodium hydroxide is the best option, which can effectively reduce the irritation caused by the polyacid system and ensure that the product is more gentle and non-irritating.
[0033] (III) Due to the different high-temperature stability of the raw materials, the present invention limits the heating temperature in each preparation step in the preparation process to be different, which can ensure that the various component raw materials of the product are more stable and uniform after mixing.
[0034] (IV) The mild multi-acid essence provided by the present invention not only has the effects of controlling oil, removing acne, and improving closed comedones, but can also improve blackhead acne, improve the area, volume, and number of skin acne; repair, exfoliate, shrink pores, improve skin roughness, and brighten skin tone. Compared with similar products on the market, its performance is more excellent.
[0035] (V) The mild multi-acid essence provided by the present invention has a wide range of raw materials for preparation, does not require the use of complex and expensive instruments in the preparation process, has a relatively simple preparation method, and is expected to achieve large-scale production of the product. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0036] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of the acne volume test results.
[0037] Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of the acne area test results.
[0038] Figure 3 Schematic diagram of the closed protrusion volume test results.
[0039] Figure 4 This is a schematic diagram of the blackhead area test results.
[0040] Figure 5 Schematic diagram of the test results of the transepidermal water loss TEWL value test.
[0041] Figure 6 Schematic diagram of the test results of the skin squamaness (SEsc) value test.
[0042] Figure 7 Schematic diagram of the pore number test results.
[0043] Figure 8 Schematic diagram of the test results of the average roughness Ra value of skin texture.
[0044] Fig. 9 is skin color L * Schematic diagram of the test results of the value experiment.
[0045] Fig.10 Schematic diagram of skin oil content test results. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0046] In the following implementation cases, the salicylic acid was purchased from Tianjin Shanglong Chemical Tianjin Shanglong Chemical Trading Co., Ltd., with a specification of Salicylic Acid extra pure;
[0047] Gluconolactone was purchased from Coneo Trading (Shanghai) Co., Ltd., the specification model is Beauté GA290;
[0048] Lactic acid was purchased from Guangzhou Tuorui Technology Co., Ltd., with specifications of HIPURE 90;
[0049] Niacinamide was purchased from Qingdao Jesming Trading Co., Ltd., and the specification model was Niacinamide PC.
[0050] Example 1
[0051] The first aspect of this example provides a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect. The raw materials for preparation are calculated by weight: phase A includes: 45.6 parts of deionized water, 30 parts of methylpropanediol, 15 parts of 1,3-butylene glycol, 0.5 parts of salicylic acid, and 5 parts of gluconolactone; phase B includes: 2 parts of lactic acid, 0.3 parts of sodium hydroxide; phase C includes: 0.8 parts of niacinamide and 0.8 parts of 1,2-hexanediol.
[0052] The second aspect of this example provides a method for preparing a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect, comprising:
[0053] S1. Mix the raw materials of phase A, heat to 55°C with stirring, keep warm for 0.5h and then cool down;
[0054] S2. After cooling to 40°C, add the raw materials of phase B and stir until they are completely dissolved and evenly dispersed;
[0055] S3. Cool down to 35°C, add Phase C raw materials, stir and disperse evenly to obtain mild multi-acid essence.
[0056] Example 2
[0057] The first aspect of this example provides a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect. The raw materials for preparation are calculated by weight: phase A includes: 37.86 parts of deionized water, 30 parts of methylpropanediol, 15 parts of 1,3-butylene glycol, 1 part of salicylic acid, and 10 parts of gluconolactone; phase B includes: 4 parts of lactic acid and 0.54 parts of sodium hydroxide; phase C includes: 0.8 parts of niacinamide and 0.8 parts of 1,2-hexanediol.
[0058] The second aspect of this example provides a method for preparing a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect, comprising:
[0059] S1. Mix the raw materials of phase A, heat to 55°C with stirring, keep warm for 0.5h and then cool down;
[0060] S2, after cooling to 40°C, add the raw materials of phase B and stir until all dissolved and evenly dispersed;
[0061] S3. Cool down to 35°C, add Phase C raw materials, stir and disperse evenly to obtain mild multi-acid essence.
[0062] Example 3
[0063] The first aspect of this example provides a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect. The raw materials for preparation are calculated by weight: phase A includes: 29.44 parts of deionized water, 30 parts of methylpropanediol, 15 parts of 1,3-butylene glycol, 2 parts of salicylic acid, and 15 parts of gluconolactone; phase B includes: 6 parts of lactic acid and 0.96 parts of sodium hydroxide; phase C includes: 0.8 parts of niacinamide and 0.8 parts of 1,2-hexanediol.
[0064] The second aspect of this example provides a method for preparing a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect, comprising:
[0065] S1. Mix the raw materials of phase A, heat to 55°C with stirring, keep warm for 0.5h and then cool down;
[0066] S2. After cooling to 40°C, add the raw materials of phase B and stir until they are completely dissolved and evenly dispersed;
[0067] S3. Cool down to 35°C, add Phase C raw materials, stir and disperse evenly to obtain mild multi-acid essence.
[0068] Comparative Example 1
[0069] In the first aspect of this example, a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect is provided. The raw materials for preparation are calculated by weight: phase A includes: 46.1 parts of deionized water, 30 parts of methylpropanediol, 15 parts of 1,3-butylene glycol, and 5 parts of gluconolactone; phase B includes: 2 parts of lactic acid and 0.3 parts of sodium hydroxide; phase C includes: 0.8 parts of niacinamide and 0.8 parts of 1,2-hexanediol.
[0070] The second aspect of this example provides a method for preparing a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect, comprising:
[0071] S1. Mix the raw materials of phase A, heat to 55°C with stirring, keep warm for 0.5h and then cool down;
[0072] S2. After cooling to 40°C, add the raw materials of phase B and stir until they are completely dissolved and evenly dispersed;
[0073] S3. Cool down to 35°C, add Phase C raw materials, stir and disperse evenly to obtain mild multi-acid essence.
[0074] Comparative Example 2
[0075] The first aspect of this example provides a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect. The raw materials for preparation are calculated by weight: phase A includes: 42.11 parts of deionized water, 30 parts of methylpropanediol, 15 parts of 1,3-butylene glycol, 1 part of salicylic acid, and 10 parts of gluconolactone; phase B includes: 0.29 parts of sodium hydroxide; phase C includes: 0.8 parts of niacinamide and 0.8 parts of 1,2-hexanediol.
[0076] The second aspect of this example provides a method for preparing a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect, comprising:
[0077] S1. Mix the raw materials of phase A, heat to 55°C with stirring, keep warm for 0.5h and then cool down;
[0078] S2. After cooling to 40°C, add the raw materials of phase B and stir until they are completely dissolved and evenly dispersed;
[0079] S3. Cool down to 35°C, add Phase C raw materials, stir and disperse evenly to obtain mild multi-acid essence.
[0080] Comparative Example 3
[0081] In the first aspect of this example, a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect is provided. The raw materials for preparation are calculated by weight: phase A includes: 44.8 parts of deionized water, 30 parts of methylpropanediol, 15 parts of 1,3-butylene glycol, and 2 parts of salicylic acid; phase B includes: 6 parts of lactic acid and 0.6 parts of sodium hydroxide; phase C includes: 0.8 parts of niacinamide and 0.8 parts of 1,2-hexanediol.
[0082] The second aspect of this example provides a method for preparing a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect, comprising:
[0083] S1. Mix the raw materials of phase A, heat to 55°C with stirring, keep warm for 0.5h and then cool down;
[0084] S2, after cooling to 40°C, add the raw materials of phase B and stir until all dissolved and evenly dispersed;
[0085] S3. Cool down to 35°C, add Phase C raw materials, stir and disperse evenly to obtain mild multi-acid essence.
[0086] Comparative Example 4
[0087] The first aspect of this example provides a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect. The raw materials for preparation are calculated by weight: Phase A includes: 30.4 parts of deionized water, 30 parts of methylpropanediol, 15 parts of 1,3-butylene glycol, 2 parts of salicylic acid, and 15 parts of gluconolactone; Phase B includes: 6 parts of lactic acid; Phase C includes: 0.8 parts of niacinamide and 0.8 parts of 1,2-hexanediol.
[0088] The second aspect of this example provides a method for preparing a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect, comprising:
[0089] S1. Mix the raw materials of phase A, heat to 55°C with stirring, keep warm for 0.5h and then cool down;
[0090] S2, after cooling to 40°C, add the raw materials of phase B and stir until all dissolved and evenly dispersed;
[0091] S3. Cool down to 35°C, add Phase C raw materials, stir and disperse evenly to obtain mild multi-acid essence.
[0092] The product prepared in this example has a certain irritation after use and has low practical use value.
[0093] Comparative Example 5
[0094] The first aspect of this example provides a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect. The raw materials for preparation are calculated by weight: phase A includes: 29.44 parts of deionized water, 30 parts of methylpropanediol, 15 parts of 1,3-butylene glycol, and 2 parts of salicylic acid; phase B includes: 6 parts of lactic acid and 0.96 parts of sodium hydroxide; phase C includes: 15 parts of gluconolactone, 0.8 parts of niacinamide, and 0.8 parts of 1,2-hexanediol.
[0095] The second aspect of this example provides a method for preparing a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect, comprising:
[0096] S1. Mix the raw materials of phase A, heat to 55°C with stirring, keep warm for 0.5h and then cool down;
[0097] S2. After cooling to 40°C, add the raw materials of phase B and stir until they are completely dissolved and evenly dispersed;
[0098] S3. Cool down to 35°C, add Phase C raw materials, stir and disperse evenly to obtain mild multi-acid essence.
[0099] The pH stability of the product prepared in this example is poor. After the product is prepared and left overnight, the pH drops. This is because gluconolactone is in hydrolysis equilibrium in water. The reaction is slow at room temperature and heating will accelerate the hydrolysis equilibrium. Adding gluconolactone at low temperature causes the pH of the product to not reach equilibrium after preparation, resulting in an unstable product.
[0100] Comparative Example 6
[0101] The first aspect of this example provides a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect. The raw materials for preparation are calculated by weight: phase A includes: 23.12 parts of deionized water, 30 parts of methylpropanediol, 15 parts of 1,3-butylene glycol, 8 parts of salicylic acid, and 15 parts of gluconolactone; phase B includes: 6 parts of lactic acid and 1.28 parts of sodium hydroxide; phase C includes: 0.8 parts of niacinamide and 0.8 parts of 1,2-hexanediol.
[0102] The second aspect of this example provides a method for preparing a mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect, comprising:
[0103] S1. Mix the raw materials of phase A, heat to 55°C with stirring, keep warm for 0.5h and then cool down;
[0104] S2. After cooling to 40°C, add the raw materials of phase B and stir until they are completely dissolved and evenly dispersed;
[0105] S3. Cool down to 35°C, add Phase C raw materials, stir and disperse evenly to obtain mild multi-acid essence.
[0106] The product prepared in this example is highly irritating and causes severe peeling after use.
[0107] Performance Testing
[0108] Test 1: Acne removal, repair, and exfoliation efficacy test
[0109] 1. Test sample: product of Example 3.
[0110] 2. Subject information:
[0111] Number of people recruited and screened: 32; Number of people enrolled: 32; Number of effective people completing the trial: 32.
[0112] Gender of subjects: 8 males and 24 females.
[0113] The age of the subjects ranged from 19 to 42 years old, with an average age of 32 years old.
[0114] 3. Test environment:
[0115] The test environment is at a temperature of 20°C to 22°C and a humidity of 40% to 60% RH, and dynamic monitoring is performed.
[0116] 4. Test methods
[0117] 4.1. The subjects cleaned their faces uniformly, wiped them with a dry face towel, and sat quietly in a test room with a temperature of 20℃~22℃ and a humidity of 40%~60% RH for 30 minutes. During this period, they were not allowed to drink water or beverages, their faces were exposed, and they remained relaxed.
[0118] 4.2. The test personnel determine the test area and test the acne volume, acne area, closed comedones volume, blackhead area, transepidermal water loss TEWL value, skin scaly degree (SEsc) value, number of pores, average roughness Ra value of skin texture, skin chromaticity L * value.
[0119] 4.3. After distributing test samples, the test personnel will provide training on how to use the samples to the subjects. The methods of using the samples are as follows:
[0120] Part of application: face
[0121] Frequency and cycle of use: Use once every other day for 14 consecutive days.
[0122] Usage: Apply to facial skin after cleansing. During the entire test period, you cannot be exposed to the sun for a long time, do outdoor sports, travel, etc. During the entire test period, you must not use cosmetics or medicines with similar effects to the sample. During the test period, the subjects must not change their daily care habits.
[0123] 4.4. The subjects were revisited 3 days and 14 days after using the samples, and the acne volume, acne area, closed comedones volume, blackhead area and other parameters were measured.
[0124] 5 Statistical methods
[0125] 5.1 Result calculation
[0126] 5.1.1 Descriptive Statistics
[0127] The mean, standard deviation, maximum, minimum and median of each skin parameter at each time point were calculated.
[0128] 5.1.2 Normal distribution test
[0129] The test values were tested for normal distribution. If the significance value of normality test was p>0.05, the data series followed normal distribution.
[0130] 5.1.3 Difference Analysis
[0131] The samples were analyzed for differences before and after use. When the test data conformed to the normal distribution, the t-test was used to analyze the differences between the two groups of data; when the test data did not conform to the normal distribution, the rank sum test was used to analyze the differences between the two groups of data.
[0132] The statistical methods all adopted two-tailed test, and the test level was α=0.05.
[0133] 5.2 Evaluation Criteria
[0134] If the significance level of the difference analysis is p<0.050, it indicates that there is a statistically significant difference between the subjects before and after using the sample, indicating that the sample has a corresponding effect;
[0135] If the significance level of the difference analysis is p≥0.050, it indicates that there is no statistically significant difference between the subjects before and after using the sample, indicating that the sample has no corresponding effect.
[0136] 5.3 Calculation of rate of change after using samples
[0137]
[0138] Wherein, T0: the basic value of the skin before using the sample in the test area;
[0139] T1: skin parameter values after the sample was used on the test area for T days;
[0140] n: number of subjects.
[0141] 6. Test results
[0142] 6.1. Acne volume test
[0143] Test content: Data of acne volume at different time points. See Table 1 for detailed test data.
[0144] Test content: Comparison of the basic value of acne volume with the 3d and 14d measured values. For details, see Figure 1 .
[0145] Table 1
[0146]
[0147] Conclusion: In the test population (32 people), after using the sample for 3 days and 14 days, the acne volume was significantly reduced compared with the baseline value (p < 0.05), indicating that the sample has the effect of removing acne.
[0148] 6.2. Acne Area Test
[0149] Test content: Data of acne area at different time points. See Table 2 for detailed test data.
[0150] Test content: Comparison of the basic value of acne area with the 3d and 14d measured values. For details, see Figure 2 .
[0151] Table 2
[0152]
[0153]
[0154] Conclusion: In the test population (32 people), after using the sample for 3 days and 14 days, the acne area was significantly reduced compared with the baseline value (p < 0.05), indicating that the sample has the effect of removing acne.
[0155] 6.3. Closed protrusion volume test
[0156] Test content: Data of closed mouth protrusion volume at different time points. The test data results are detailed in Table 3.
[0157] Test content: Comparison of closed mouth bulge volume basic value with 3d and 14d measurement values, see Figure 3 .
[0158] Table 3
[0159]
[0160] Conclusion: In the test population (32 people), after using the sample for 3 days and 14 days, the volume of closed comedones was significantly reduced compared with the baseline value (p < 0.05), indicating that the sample has the effect of improving closed comedones.
[0161] 6.4 Blackhead area test
[0162] Test content: Data of blackhead area at different time points. See Table 4 for test data results.
[0163] Test content: Comparison of blackhead area basic value with 3d and 14d measurement values, see Figure 4 .
[0164] Table 4
[0165]
[0166] Conclusion: In the test population (32 people), after using the sample for 3 days and 14 days, the blackhead area was significantly reduced compared with the baseline value (p < 0.05), indicating that the sample has the effect of improving blackhead type acne.
[0167] 6.5. Transepidermal water loss TEWL value test
[0168] Test content: Data of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) at different time points. See Table 5 for test data results.
[0169] Test content: Comparison of the baseline value of transepidermal water loss and the 14-day measured value, see Figure 5 .
[0170] Table 5
[0171]
[0172]
[0173] Conclusion: In this test population (32 people), after using the sample for 14 days, compared with the baseline value, the TEWL value of facial skin was significantly reduced (p < 0.05), indicating that the sample has a repairing effect. TEWL is a key indicator of skin barrier function. The lower the value, the better the skin barrier function. The experimental results show that the use of this sample will not only not irritate the skin, but can promote the repair of skin barrier function.
[0174] 6.6. Skin Squamousness (SEsc) Value Test
[0175] Test content: Data of skin squamaness (SEsc) value at different time points. The test data results are detailed in Table 6.
[0176] Test content: Comparison of the basic value of skin scaly degree and the 14-day measured value, see Figure 6 .
[0177] Table 6
[0178]
[0179]
[0180] Conclusion: In the test population (32 people), after using the sample for 14 days, compared with the baseline value, the facial skin scaly degree (SEsc) value was significantly reduced (p < 0.05), indicating that the sample has an exfoliating effect.
[0181] 6.7. Pore number test
[0182] Test content: Data of pore count at different time points. See Table 7 for test data results.
[0183] Test content: Comparison of the basic value of pore count and the 14-day measured value, see Figure 7 .
[0184] Table 7
[0185]
[0186] Conclusion: In the test population (32 people), after using the sample for 14 days, the number of facial pores was significantly reduced compared with the baseline value (p < 0.05), indicating that the sample has the effect of refining pores.
[0187] 6.8. Skin texture average roughness Ra value test
[0188] Test content: Data of skin texture average roughness Ra value at different time points. The test data results are detailed in Table 8.
[0189] Test content: Comparison of the basic value of skin texture average roughness and the 14d measured value, see Figure 8 .
[0190] Table 8
[0191]
[0192] Conclusion: In the test population (32 people), after using the sample for 14 days, compared with the baseline value, the average roughness Ra value of facial skin texture increased significantly (p < 0.05), indicating that the sample has the effect of improving skin roughness.
[0193] 6.9. Skin Chroma L * Value Test
[0194] Test content: Skin color L * The data of the value content at different time points, the test data results are detailed in Table 9.
[0195] Test content: Skin color L * For details, see Fig. 9 .
[0196] Table 9
[0197]
[0198]
[0199] Conclusion: In this study population (32 people), after using the sample for 14 days, compared with the baseline value, the skin chromaticity L * The value was significantly decreased (p < 0.05), indicating that the sample has the effect of brightening the skin color.
[0200] Test 2: Oil control efficacy test
[0201] Test sample: Example 3.
[0202] Purpose of the test: To evaluate the efficacy of the product after 4 weeks of use by testing the skin oil content.
[0203] Test item: Skin oil content test.
[0204] Test basis: "Cosmetic Efficacy Evaluation Test" September 22, 2023 edition.
[0205] Subject information: 32 females, all aged 18-40 years old.
[0206] Test area: Forehead on one random side.
[0207] Test instrument: Skin oil content tester (Cutometer, MPA580, Courage and Khazaka, Germany).
[0208] Test time points: initial value and 4 weeks after product use.
[0209] Test method: This test cycle is 4 weeks, and a total of 32 eligible female subjects participated in the test. During the test period, the subjects used the product once in the morning and evening every day for 4 consecutive weeks. During the entire test period, the subjects replaced their own essence with the product of Example 3, and continued to use the original skin care products, facial cleansers, sunscreen products and makeup without acne removal and oil control effects, and the product brand and usage should remain unchanged. Before the use of the test product (initial value) and after 4 weeks of use, the skin oil content of one random forehead was tested, and expert evaluation and facial imaging were performed on one random half of the face; the questionnaire was completed after 4 weeks of use of the test product.
[0210] Skin oil content test results, see Table 10 and Fig.10 .
[0211] Table 10
[0212]
[0213]
[0214] As shown in Table 10, compared with the initial value, after using the test product for 4 weeks, the skin oil content in the test area was significantly reduced by 8.19 μg / cm 2 .
[0215] Test 3: Viscosity and subjective feeling test
[0216] Test objects: Examples 1-3, Comparative Examples 1-3.
[0217] The test results are shown in Table 11.
[0218] Table 11
[0219]
[0220] By testing the viscosity, it was found that the viscosity of the embodiment and the comparative example was not much different, and both were liquids with strong fluidity. It is worth noting that, compared with the comparative example 3, the addition of gluconolactone in the embodiment 3 significantly increased the viscosity of the system, thereby improving the operability of applying the cosmetics on the face. At the same time, the increase in viscosity also reduced the penetration efficiency of the ingredients, achieving a similar sustained-release effect, thereby avoiding irritation caused by the penetration of a large amount of high-concentration active ingredients in a short period of time.
[0221] By testing the skin feel, it was found that the overall skin feel of the example group was moisturizing, and the moisturizing degree increased with the increase of acid concentration, while the overall moisturizing degree of the comparative example group was biased, especially comparative example 2 and comparative example 3, which had poor moisturizing degree and would feel dry after a long time. This shows that gluconolactone and lactic acid can alleviate the negative effects of dry and cracked skin caused by salicylic acid.
Claims
1. A mild multi-acid essence with barrier repair effect, characterized in that: The preparation raw materials include: phase A, phase B, phase C; The raw materials for preparing phase A include: a humectant, a first acid component, and a second acid component; The raw materials for preparing phase B include: a third acid component, a pH adjuster; The raw materials for preparing phase C include: functional substances and preservatives.
2. The mild multi-acid essence with barrier repairing effect according to claim 1, characterized in that: The first acid component includes: one of salicylic acid, gluconolactone and lactic acid.
3. The mild multi-acid essence with barrier repairing effect according to claim 2, characterized in that: The second acid component comprises: one of salicylic acid, gluconolactone and lactic acid.
4. The mild multi-acid essence with barrier repairing effect according to claim 3, characterized in that: The third acid component includes one of salicylic acid, gluconolactone and lactic acid.
5. The mild multi-acid essence with barrier repairing effect according to claim 4, characterized in that: The specific substances of the first acid component, the second acid component and the third acid component are all different.
6. The mild multi-acid essence with barrier repairing effect according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that: The moisturizing agent includes: one or more of water, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, methyl propanediol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol, dipropylene glycol, sorbitol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, polyethylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, β-glucan, carboxymethyl chitosan, tremella polysaccharide, algae, mannitol, and betaine.
7. The mild multi-acid essence with barrier repairing effect according to claim 1, characterized in that: The pH regulator includes sodium hydroxide and / or arginine.
8. The mild multi-acid essence with barrier repairing effect according to claim 1, characterized in that: The effective substances include: one or more of glabridin, tranexamic acid, yeast extract, nicotinamide, arbutin, yeast extract, phenethyl resorcinol, plant extract, ectoine, vitamin C and ergothioneine.
9. The mild multi-acid essence with barrier repairing effect according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preservatives include: one or more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, and caprylyl glycol.
10. A method for preparing the mild multi-acid essence with barrier repairing effect according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: S1. Mix the raw materials of phase A, heat to 55-60°C with stirring, keep warm for 0.5-1h and then cool down; S2, cool down to 40-45℃, add phase B raw materials, stir until completely dissolved and evenly dispersed; S3. Cool down to 35-38°C, add Phase C raw materials, stir and disperse evenly to obtain a mild multi-acid essence.
