Retinol microcapsule, cosmetic composition, preparation method and application

Abstract

According to the retinol microcapsule, the cosmetic composition, the preparation method and the application, the retinol microcapsule is prepared by wrapping the retinol with the collagen peptide and the polyphenol substance, the prepared retinol microcapsule has good temperature stability and illumination stability, meanwhile, irritation to skin is greatly reduced, and the retinol microcapsule can be applied to cosmetics. And multiple effects of retinol, collagen peptide and polyphenol substances can be realized. The retinol microcapsule has good moisture retention and anti-wrinkle and whitening effects, and can be applied to preparation of cosmetics.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of skin care and relates to a retinol microcapsule, a cosmetic composition, a preparation method and an application. Background Art

[0002] Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin and a derivative of retinol, including retinol, retinal, retinoic acid, retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate. The retinol in vitamin A can help the skin's stratum corneum restore normal metabolism, thicken the skin's stratum corneum, enhance the skin's water storage capacity, promote keratinocyte metabolism, reduce pigmentation and antioxidant function, enhance the cell's own immunity, make the skin glow healthy from the inside out, and promote skin cell proliferation and the production of collagen peptide protein in the dermis, thus making the skin healthier.

[0003] Retinol has 5 double bonds and conjugated double bonds, so its chemical properties are very active. Oxygen, temperature, light, metal ions, and too low pH values ​​will accelerate its decomposition or isomerization reaction, affecting the stability of retinol. Retinol needs to be converted into retinoic acid in cells to play the above role. Retinoic acid is a medicine and is often used in acne drugs. Studies have shown that retinoic acid will show different tolerance to people with different skin types, such as erythema, peeling, pain and other discomfort. Therefore, products containing retinol are irritating to the skin.

[0004] In order to reduce the irritation of retinol to the skin, various retinol and retinoic acid derivatives are usually obtained by modifying the side chains of the chemical structure, such as retinol palmitate, retinol acetate, retinol propionate, etc., but this will weaken the corresponding efficacy to varying degrees and has low biological activity. Summary of the invention

[0005] The purpose of the present invention is to provide a retinol microcapsule, a cosmetic composition, a preparation method and an application.

[0006] To achieve the above object, the present invention adopts the following technical solutions: The present application provides a retinol microcapsule that reduces the irritation of retinol and improves the biological activity. The retinol microcapsule uses collagen peptides and polyphenols to encapsulate retinol to reduce the irritation of retinol and improve the stability and whitening effect of the retinol microcapsule.

[0007] In a first aspect, the present application provides a retinol microcapsule, wherein the raw materials for preparing the retinol microcapsule include, by weight: 1-5 parts of retinol or a retinol derivative, 5-20 parts of an emulsifier, 10-20 parts of an oil phase, 3-15 parts of a collagen peptide, 3-15 parts of a polyphenol, 5-25 parts of a polyol, and 30-60 parts of water.

[0008] Among them, retinol or retinol derivatives can act on the skin, regulate the growth and differentiation of different cells in the skin, maintain the normal circulation of skin cells, promote epidermal cell renewal, restore epithelial structure, repair damaged collagen, help slow down the formation of skin wrinkles, and improve abnormal pigmentation, rough spots and dry skin.

[0009] In the present application, retinol derivatives include retinol palmitate, retinol propionate, retinol acetate, retinol linoleate, retinol retinoic acid ester or hydroxypinacol retinoic acid ester and the like.

[0010] Collagen peptide is a small molecule collagen and a hydrolysis product of collagen. Each collagen molecule is a homologous or heterotrimeric glycoprotein composed of three identical or different α chains. The structural feature of each α chain polypeptide sequence is a repeated Cly-XY sequence, which forms a fine elastic network in the skin, firmly locks in moisture and supports the skin. Collagen peptide can penetrate into the stratum corneum and dermis, and has many functions such as extending the life of skin cells, inhibiting lipid peroxidation of cell membranes, resisting the attack of oxidative free radicals on DNA, inhibiting the activity of tyrosine, improving skin immunity, improving skin water retention, and promoting the synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid in dermal cells.

[0011] Polyphenol compounds refer to substances in plants with aromatic rings linked to hydroxyl groups. The interaction between polyphenols and proteins is formed in two ways: reversible or irreversible. Reversible interactions are mainly formed by non-covalent forces such as hydrogen bonds, hydrophobic interactions, electrostatic interactions or van der Waals forces, while irreversible interactions are formed by covalent bond forces. The introduction of hydroxyl groups in polyphenols into collagen peptides can increase the antioxidant activity of the aqueous phase mixture. At the same time, it can also change the hydrophilic and hydrophobic balance of collagen peptides, affecting the solubility and other functions of the aqueous phase mixture.

[0012] In the present application, the polyphenols include one or more of licorice extract, seabuckthorn extract, scutellaria extract, ginkgo leaf extract, tea extract, EGCG, tea polyphenols, theaflavins, grape seed extract, anthocyanins, and curcumin.

[0013] Among them, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) is the main active ingredient in tea polyphenols. It is a catechin monomer isolated from tea leaves. It has very strong antioxidant activity, which is at least 100 times that of vitamin C and 25 times that of vitamin E. It can protect cells and DNA from damage.

[0014] In the present application, the polyol includes one or more of glycerol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,3-propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and glyceryl polyether-26.

[0015] In the present application, the emulsifier includes one or more of cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, sorbitan ester-20, PEG-20 methyl sesquiglucoside, sorbitan isostearate, bis-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 polydimethylsiloxane, and methyl sesquiglucoside.

[0016] Preferably, the emulsifier includes one or more of glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 methyl sesquiglucoside, cetearyl alcohol, and cetearyl glucoside.

[0017] In the present application, the oil phase includes one or more of caprylic / capric triglyceride, dimethicone, shea butter, squalane, jojoba oil, olive oil, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl palmitate, coconut oil, avocado oil, isododecane, corn oil, palm oil, polyisobutene, coconut alcohol-caprylate / caprate, pentaerythritol tetracaprylate, isopropyl myristate, and sweet almond oil.

[0018] Preferably, the oil phase includes one or more of caprylic / capric triglyceride, dimethicone, shea butter, squalane, jojoba oil, olive oil, and dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0019] Preferably, the raw materials for preparing retinol microcapsules include, by weight: 5 parts of retinol or retinol derivatives, 15 parts of emulsifier, 15 parts of oil phase, 7 parts of collagen peptide, 7 parts of polyphenols, 10 parts of polyols and 36 parts of water.

[0020] Preferably, the raw materials for preparing retinol microcapsules include, by weight: 5 parts of retinol or retinol derivatives, 15 parts of emulsifier, 15 parts of oil phase, 10 parts of collagen peptides, 10 parts of polyphenols, 10 parts of polyols and 30 parts of water.

[0021] In a second aspect, the present application provides a method for preparing retinol microcapsules, the method comprising: S01: mixing retinol or a retinol derivative, an oil phase and an emulsifier, and stirring and dissolving them at 60-65° C. to obtain an oil phase mixed liquid; S02: Mix water, polyols, collagen peptides and polyphenols, and stir to dissolve at 20-35°C to obtain an aqueous phase mixture; S03: adding the oil phase mixture to the water phase mixture, and shearing and emulsifying at a rotation speed of 6000 r / min for 5 minutes to obtain a microcapsule emulsion; S04: spray drying the microcapsule emulsion at a feed rate of 5 mL / min and a temperature of 150° C. to obtain retinol microcapsules.

[0022] In a third aspect, the present application provides a cosmetic composition, comprising the retinol microcapsules in the first aspect.

[0023] The properties of the cosmetic composition in the present application include toner, essence, cream lotion, gel, jelly or mask. Preferably, the properties of the cosmetic composition include essence, cream lotion.

[0024] In a fourth aspect, the retinol microcapsules in the present application are used for moisturizing, anti-wrinkle and whitening.

[0025] The present invention has the following beneficial effects: (1) The retinol microcapsules are prepared by encapsulating retinol with collagen peptides and polyphenols. The prepared retinol microcapsules have good temperature stability and light stability. At the same time, the irritation to the skin is greatly reduced, and the multiple functions of retinol, collagen peptides and polyphenols can be achieved.

[0026] (2) The retinol microcapsules have good moisturizing and anti-wrinkle and whitening effects and can be used in the preparation of cosmetics. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0027] Figure 1 It is the trend chart of T-UCA content in creams 1-4; Figure 2 This is the collagen fiber content detection diagram of the negative control group; Figure 3 This is the collagen fiber content detection diagram of the positive control group; Figure 4 This is a test chart of collagen fiber content in anti-wrinkle cream 1; Figure 5 This is a test chart of collagen fiber content in anti-wrinkle cream 2; Figure 6 This is the collagen fiber content detection chart of anti-wrinkle cream 3; Figure 7 This is a test chart of the collagen fiber content of anti-wrinkle cream 4; Figure 8 It is a comparison chart of collagen fiber detection of negative control group, positive control group and anti-wrinkle creams 1-4. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0028] The technical solution of the present invention is further explained and illustrated by means of specific embodiments below.

[0029] Example 1 The embodiment of the present application provides a retinol microcapsule. The raw materials for preparing the retinol microcapsule include 3 parts of retinol, 10 parts of glyceryl stearate, 5 parts of PEG-100 stearate, 10 parts of dicaprylyl carbonate, 10 parts of squalane, 3 parts of collagen peptide, 3 parts of EGCG, 10 parts of glycerol and 46 parts of water in parts by weight.

[0030] The preparation method of the retinol microcapsule comprises: S01: retinol, dicaprylyl carbonate, squalane, glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate were mixed in a water bath, stirred and dissolved at 60°C and kept warm for 30 minutes to obtain an oil phase mixture; S02: Mix water, glycerol, collagen peptide and EGCG, stir and dissolve at 20-35°C and keep warm for 30 minutes to obtain an aqueous phase mixture; S03: adding the oil phase mixture to the water phase mixture, and using a homogenizer to shear and emulsify for 5 minutes at a rotation speed of 6000 r / min to obtain a microcapsule emulsion; S04: After the microcapsule emulsion is stirred uniformly using a magnetic stirrer, it is spray-dried at a feed rate of 5 mL / min and a temperature of 150° C. to obtain retinol microcapsules.

[0031] Example 2 The embodiment of the present application provides a retinol microcapsule. The raw materials for preparing the retinol microcapsule include 3 parts of retinol, 10 parts of glyceryl stearate, 5 parts of PEG-100 stearate, 5 parts of dicaprylyl carbonate, 10 parts of squalane, 5 parts of collagen peptide, 5 parts of EGCG, 10 parts of glycerol and 42 parts of water in parts by weight.

[0032] The preparation method of the retinol microcapsules is the same as that of Example 1, except that the dissolution temperature of retinol or retinol derivatives, the oil phase and the emulsifier is 65°C.

[0033] Example 3 The embodiment of the present application provides a retinol microcapsule. The raw materials for preparing the retinol microcapsule include 5 parts of retinol, 10 parts of glyceryl stearate, 5 parts of PEG-100 stearate, 5 parts of dicaprylyl carbonate, 10 parts of squalane, 5 parts of collagen peptide, 5 parts of EGCG, 10 parts of glycerol and 40 parts of water in parts by weight.

[0034] The preparation method of the retinol microcapsules is the same as that of Example 1, except that the dissolution temperature of retinol or retinol derivatives, the oil phase and the emulsifier is 62°C.

[0035] Example 4 The embodiment of the present application provides a retinol microcapsule. The raw materials for preparing the retinol microcapsule include 5 parts of retinol, 10 parts of glyceryl stearate, 5 parts of PEG-100 stearate, 5 parts of dicaprylyl carbonate, 10 parts of squalane, 7 parts of collagen peptide, 7 parts of EGCG, 10 parts of glycerol and 36 parts of water in parts by weight.

[0036] The preparation method of the retinol microcapsules is the same as that of Example 1.

[0037] Example 5 The embodiment of the present application provides a retinol microcapsule. The raw materials for preparing the retinol microcapsule include 5 parts of retinol, 10 parts of glyceryl stearate, 5 parts of PEG-100 stearate, 5 parts of dicaprylyl carbonate, 10 parts of squalane, 10 parts of collagen peptide, 10 parts of EGCG, 10 parts of glycerol and 30 parts of water in parts by weight.

[0038] The preparation method of the retinol microcapsules is the same as that of Example 1.

[0039] Comparative Example 1 The comparative example of the present application provides a retinol microcapsule, and the raw materials for preparing the retinol microcapsule include 5 parts of retinol, 10 parts of glyceryl stearate, 5 parts of PEG-100 stearate, 5 parts of dicaprylyl carbonate, 10 parts of squalane, 10 parts of glycerol and 55 parts of water in parts by weight.

[0040] The preparation method of the retinol microcapsules is the same as that of Example 1.

[0041] Comparative Example 2 The comparative example of the present application provides a microcapsule. The raw materials for preparing the retinol microcapsule include, in parts by weight, 10 parts of glyceryl stearate, 5 parts of PEG-100 stearate, 5 parts of dicaprylyl carbonate, 10 parts of squalane, 10 parts of collagen peptide, 10 parts of EGCG, 10 parts of glycerol and 40 parts of water.

[0042] The preparation method of the retinol microcapsules is the same as that of Example 1.

[0043] In the examples of the present application, the temperature stability and light stability tests were performed on the retinol microcapsules of Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2, respectively. At the same time, the skin irritation, moisturizing and anti-wrinkle efficacy tests were performed on the retinol microcapsules of Examples 4 and 5 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2, respectively, which are described in detail below.

[0044] 1. Temperature stability test The retinol microcapsule emulsions in Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were placed in an environment of 25±2° C. for 15 days, and the appearance of the retinol microcapsule emulsions was observed every 3 days to see if there was any change. Table 1 is obtained.

[0045] Table 1: Temperature stability test results As can be seen from Table 1, when placed at the same temperature for a long time, the retinol microcapsule emulsion prepared in Example 1 showed stratification after 9 days of placement, the retinol microcapsule emulsion prepared in Example 3 showed stratification after 12 days of placement, and the retinol microcapsule emulsions prepared in Examples 2, 4, and 5 showed no stratification after 15 days of placement.

[0046] This is because the addition amount of collagen peptide and retinol in Example 1 and Example 3 is 1:1, and the stability begins to stratify after 9 days and 12 days respectively, and the high content of retinol breaks after a period of time. Examples 2, 4, and 5 have the best stability, and no stratification occurs after 15 days. Since the two have a reasonable ratio, collagen peptide and polyphenol can well encapsulate retinol. The retinol content is 3%, 5%, and 5% respectively. Therefore, the active ingredient effect of the retinol microcapsule emulsion prepared in Examples 4 and 5 with high retinol content is more excellent.

[0047] In Comparative Example 1, collagen peptide was not used to encapsulate retinol, so the microcapsule emulsion prepared with retinol was stratified after being placed for 3 days. In Comparative Example 2, since retinol was not added and only collagen peptide was added, the stability of the collagen peptide was better and no stratification occurred.

[0048] 2. Light stability test The retinol microcapsule emulsions in Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were placed under sunlight, fluorescent lamp and dark conditions for 1 hour and 5 hours respectively, and the appearance of the retinol microcapsule emulsion was observed to see if there was any change, and Table 2 was obtained.

[0049] Table 2: Light stability test results As can be seen from Table 2, under the irradiation of sunlight and fluorescent lamp, the retinol microcapsule emulsions prepared in Examples 1-5 did not stratify after 1 hour of irradiation; after 5 hours of irradiation, the retinol microcapsule emulsions prepared in Examples 1 and 3 all stratified, and the retinol microcapsule emulsions prepared in Examples 2, 4, and 5 did not stratify. This shows that when the amount of collagen peptide added is greater than the amount of retinol added, retinol can be well wrapped, allowing retinol to exist stably.

[0050] In a dark environment, when placed for 1 hour and 5 hours, the retinol microcapsule emulsions prepared in Examples 1-5 did not delaminate after being irradiated for 1 hour, indicating that light can affect the stability of retinol.

[0051] Comparative Example 1 did not delaminate when exposed to fluorescent light for 1 hour and placed in darkness for 1 hour, but delaminated under all other conditions. This indicates that retinol can be stored for a short period of time under fluorescent light and darkness, but decomposes under sunlight and is unstable.

[0052] Comparative Example 2 is stable under sunlight, fluorescent lamp and dark conditions without stratification, which shows that the collagen peptide has good stability.

[0053] 3. Content packaging rate test This example selects microcapsules prepared in Examples 1-5 and Comparative Example 1. The above samples were placed at 25°C and 45°C under light conditions for encapsulation rate testing, and taken out at 1, 2, 3, and 4 weeks to measure the retinol content using HPLC. 100% methanol was used as the mobile phase, the chromatographic column was a carbon 18 reverse phase high performance liquid chromatography column, the flow rate was 1.0 ml / min, the detection wavelength was 325 nm, and the injection volume was 10 uL.

[0054] Sampling was performed once a week to detect the retinol content in the samples. The detection was continued for 4 weeks to compare the stability differences of the retinol microcapsules prepared in different embodiments. The results are shown in Table 3.

[0055] Table 3: Retinol content test results As shown in Table 3, the retinol content in Examples 2, 4, and 5 changed very little at 25°C within 4 weeks and remained almost unchanged, while the content in Comparative Example 1 changed greatly under the same conditions, with the retinol content decreasing from 3.0% to 2.1%. After 4 weeks, the retinol content in Examples 1 and 3 decreased by 27% and 28%, respectively, indicating that the packaging stability was inferior to that of Examples 4-5.

[0056] 4. Skin irritation test Skin irritation test refers to applying the test substance to the surface of human or animal skin to observe whether skin irritation occurs. After exposure for a period of time, the relative tissue activity is tested using the MTT method. If the relative tissue activity is greater than 50%, it means that the test substance is not irritating to the skin; if the relative tissue activity is less than 50%, it means that the test substance is irritating to the skin. In this application, an in vitro reconstructed human skin model is used instead of live animals for irritation testing, which can reduce the number of animals used and improve test efficiency and repeatability. In the embodiments of this application, the test is performed according to SN / T 4577-2016 "In vitro test method for reconstructing the human epidermis model for skin irritation detection of cosmetics".

[0057] Dosing steps: According to the experimental grouping settings, the model was transferred to a 24-well plate, 0.9 mL of the test kit culture medium was added to the 24-well plate in advance, and the test group number was marked on the 24-well plate. A positive pressure pipette was used to draw 25 mg of the test substance and dripped it on the tissue surface. A sterile nylon membrane was used to help the sample spread evenly to ensure that the reagent could evenly cover the tissue surface. The negative control was DPBS buffer, and the positive control was 5% SDS. For the negative and positive controls, 25 μL was administered to each skin model. When the first tissue administration time was 20 minutes, the rinsing work began. Use sterile PBS to wash the test substance remaining on the surface of the model, and use a sterile cotton swab to gently wipe off the residual PBS and possible test substances inside and outside the model. The wiped model was transferred to a new 24-well plate with fresh culture medium added in advance, placed in a CO2 incubator, and incubated for 42 hours at 37°C and 5% CO2.

[0058] The preparation process of DPBS includes: mixing 0.20 g potassium chloride (KCI), 8.00 g sodium amide (NaCI), 0.20 g potassium dihydrogen phosphate (KH2PO4), 2.16 g disodium hydrogen phosphate (Na2HPO4·7HO2), 0.10 g magnesium chloride (MgCl2·6H2O) and 0.10 g calcium chloride (CaCl2), making up to 1000 mL with distilled water, adjusting the pH value to 7.4, and sterilizing at 121 °C for 15 min.

[0059] Tissue Viability Detection At the end of incubation, remove the model with tweezers, wipe the residual culture medium on the surface of the artificial skin model with a sterile cotton swab, and place it in a 24-well plate containing 1 mg / mL MTT (thiazole blue). Transfer the 24-well plate to a CO2 incubator and incubate for 3 hours at 37°C and 5% CO2. After the incubation, wipe the residual MTT on the surface of the artificial skin model with a sterile cotton swab, transfer it to a new 24-well plate, add 1.5mL of isopropanol, seal the 24-well plate with a sealing film, and let it stand overnight at 4°C. Then, use a 200μL pipette tip to pierce the artificial skin model so that isopropanol flows out of the artificial skin model into the 24-well plate. Discard the pierced artificial skin model to obtain the isopropanol extract. Puff the isopropanol extract in each well several times to mix it thoroughly. Take 3 portions of 200μL of isopropanol extract from each well and add them to the corresponding wells of the 924-well plate, and mark them. The absorbance of the isopropanol extract was tested by using an ELISA instrument, and the results were shown in Table 4. The wavelength was 570 nm, the average OD value of the negative control group was 0.7 ≤ OD570 ≤ 2.5, and the tissue activity deviation SD ≤ 18%.

[0060] Table 4: Skin irritation test results As can be seen from Table 4, the relative tissue activity of the positive control group is 25.3%, which is less than 30%, indicating that the positive control group is irritating to the artificial skin model. The relative tissue activities of Examples 4 and 5 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 are all greater than 50%, indicating that they are non-irritating to the skin.

[0061] 5. Efficacy test To prove that the retinol microcapsules in the present application have excellent efficacy, the retinol microcapsules in Examples 4 and 5 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were added to the same facial cream to form anti-wrinkle facial cream 1, anti-wrinkle facial cream 2, anti-wrinkle facial cream 3, and anti-wrinkle facial cream 4, wherein the anti-wrinkle facial cream formulas formed are shown in Table 5, and only the added retinol microcapsules are different. The four anti-wrinkle facial creams were subjected to moisturizing tests and anti-wrinkle tests.

[0062] Table 5: Anti-wrinkle cream formula 5.1 Moisturizing efficacy test The natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the stratum corneum of the skin includes pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) and uridylic acid (UCA). Among them, uridylic acid mainly exists in two forms: cis-uridylic acid (C-UCA) and trans-uridylic acid (T-UCA). Both forms of uridylic acid are metabolites of histidine and are the main light receptors in the skin. Under natural conditions, T-UCA exists in the stratum corneum of the skin. After ultraviolet irradiation, T-UCA is converted to C-UCA. The content of moisturizing factor T-UCA is directly detected through the 3D skin model, and the moisturizing effect of the product is comprehensively judged from the cells and tissues.

[0063] Dosage steps According to the experimental grouping settings, the model was transferred to a 24-well plate, 0.9 mL of model culture solution was added to the 24-well plate in advance, and the test group number was marked on the 24-well plate. For anti-wrinkle creams, 25 μL of DPBS was first used to moisten the surface of the skin model, and then 25 mg of each anti-wrinkle cream was weighed and evenly applied to the surface of the skin model. The negative control was DPBS buffer, and 25 μL was administered to each skin model. Gently shake the model to evenly distribute the sample on the surface of the model, place it in a CO2 incubator, and incubate it for 24 h at 37 ° C and 5% CO2. After the incubation, use a wash bottle containing sterile PBS solution to clean the test substance remaining on the surface of the model, and use a sterile cotton swab to gently wipe off the residual liquid inside and outside the model.

[0064] The extraction process of NMF in the stratum corneum is: The skin model was cut along the edge with a blade and transferred to a 1.5mL centrifuge tube. A 500μL proteinase K working solution with a concentration of 0.2mg / mL was added to each tube and placed in a constant temperature incubator for enzymatic hydrolysis at 50°C for 1h. After the enzymatic hydrolysis, the stratum corneum was clamped with tweezers and placed in a new 1.5mL centrifuge tube, and 250μL methanol was added to each tube, and an ultrasonic oscillator with an oscillation frequency of 28KHz was used for 30min. After the oscillation, the centrifuge tube was placed in a low-temperature high-speed centrifuge, centrifuged at 4°C and 14000rpm for 10min, the supernatant was aspirated and transferred to a new centrifuge tube, dried with a nitrogen blow dryer, 250μL deionized water was added, and ultrasonic oscillation was performed for 30min. After the ultrasound, the centrifuge tube was placed in a low-temperature high-speed centrifuge and centrifuged at 4°C and 12000 rpm for 10 min. 194 μL of supernatant was aspirated into the inner liner tube, and 5 μL of 1M ammonium formate mother solution and 2.5 μL of acetonitrile were added. The mixture was shaken and mixed, and then loaded onto the centrifuge.

[0065] The T-UCA in the centrifuge tube solution was detected by high performance liquid chromatography, and the results shown in Table 6 and Figure 1 The detection conditions of HPLC are as follows: chromatographic column: C18 column, 5μm, 4.6*250mm; mobile phase: 20mmol / L, 990mL ammonium formate solution added with 10mL acetonitrile, stirred evenly, filtered with 0.45μm mixed filter membrane, and ultrasonicated for 15min; column temperature: 30℃; mobile phase flow rate: 0.4mL / min; injection volume: 40μL; detection wavelength: 270nm; trans-UCA peak time: 9.9min.

[0066] Table 6: T-UCA test results Note: When using t-test method for statistical analysis, the significance of the sample group compared with the NC group is indicated by *, p-value<0.05 is indicated by *, and p-value<0.01 is indicated by **.

[0067] From Table 6 and Figure 1 It can be seen that compared with the NC group, the T-UCA content of the skin model after using anti-wrinkle creams 1-4 was significantly increased, which shows that the retinol microcapsules provided in the examples of the present application have a good moisturizing effect. At the same time, the T-UCA content of the skin model after using anti-wrinkle creams 1 and 2 was higher than that of anti-wrinkle creams 3 and 4, which shows that the moisturizing effect of the product can be improved after collagen peptides and polyphenols are wrapped.

[0068] 5.2 Anti-wrinkle efficacy test The anti-wrinkle test in this application uses a full-thickness skin model, and administers the drug surface or submerged to simulate human exposure. The changes in the content of collagen fibers in the skin model are detected by Masson staining to evaluate the anti-wrinkle efficacy of the sample to be tested.

[0069] Preparation of the positive control solution: Dissolve 500 mg VC in 10 mL ultrapure water to prepare a VC stock solution with a concentration of 50 mg / mL; dissolve 25 mg VE in 10 mL ultrapure water to prepare a VE stock solution with a concentration of 2.5 mg / mL. Use culture medium to dilute the VC stock solution and VE stock solution respectively to prepare a 50 ug / ml VC solution and a 2.5 ug / ml VE solution for use.

[0070] Dosing steps: The skin model was transferred to a 24-well plate with 1 mL of model culture medium. In the gas-liquid stage of the skin model, no drug was added to the negative control group NC, and 50 ug / ml of VC solution and 2.5 ug / ml of VE solution were added to the skin model in the positive control group PC. Each anti-wrinkle cream group was evenly applied with 100 mg of anti-wrinkle cream on the surface of each skin model. The skin models of each group were placed in a CO2 incubator and incubated at 37°C and 5% CO2 for 5 days. Fresh culture medium was replaced every two days, and the sample was added at the same time. After the incubation, the test substance remaining on the surface of the model was cleaned with a wash bottle containing sterile PBS solution, and the residual liquid inside and outside the model was gently wiped with a sterile cotton swab.

[0071] Masson staining test: The skin model was removed by circumcision, fixed with 4% paraformaldehyde, embedded in conventional paraffin, and sliced ​​at 4 μm for later use. The paraffin sections were dewaxed in sequence, and the treatment process was as follows: soak in environmentally friendly dewaxing solution I for 20 minutes - soak in environmentally friendly dewaxing solution II for 20 minutes - soak in anhydrous ethanol I for 5 minutes - soak in anhydrous ethanol II for 5 minutes - soak in 75% alcohol for 5 minutes - wash with tap water. The frozen sections were taken out of the -20℃ refrigerator and restored to room temperature. After fixing with tissue fixative for 15 minutes, they were rinsed with running water. The sections were immersed in Masson A solution overnight and rinsed with running water. The sections were immersed in a dye solution mixed with Masson B solution and Masson C solution in equal proportions, immersed for 1 minute, washed with tap water, differentiated with differentiation solution for a few seconds, and washed with tap water. The sections were immersed in Masson D solution for 6 minutes and rinsed with tap water. The sections were immersed in Masson E solution for 1 minute. After the staining is completed, drain and place in Masson F solution for 2-30 seconds. After the staining is completed, rinse and differentiate the slices with 1% acetic acid, and dehydrate with two cylinders of anhydrous ethanol. The dehydrated slices are placed in the third cylinder of anhydrous ethanol for 5 minutes and xylene for 5 minutes until transparent, and then sealed with neutral gum. Observe the sealed slices under a microscope to obtain the attached Figure 2-8and Table 7.

[0072] Table 7: Average values ​​of relative area of ​​collagen fibers Note: When using t-test method for statistical analysis, the significance of the PC group, sample group and NC group is indicated by *, p-value<0.05 is indicated by *, and p-value<0.01 is indicated by **.

[0073] By the attached Figure 2-8 As shown in Table 7, compared with the NC group, the collagen fiber content of the skin model increased after using the PC group, indicating that this detection system is effective.

[0074] Compared with the NC group, after using anti-wrinkle creams 1-4, the content of collagen fibers in the skin model increased significantly, and the content of collagen fibers in anti-wrinkle creams 1 and 2 was greater than that in anti-wrinkle creams 3 and 4, which indicates that the retinol microcapsules provided in the examples of the present application have good anti-wrinkle effects.

[0075] The content of collagen fibers increased the most after using Anti-Wrinkle Cream 2, which indicates that high content of collagen peptides can synergistically enhance the anti-wrinkle and firming effect of retinol microcapsules.

[0076] The above description is only the preferred embodiment of the present application and is not intended to limit the present application. For those skilled in the art, the present application may have various modifications and variations. Any modification, equivalent replacement, improvement, etc. made within the spirit and principle of the present application shall be included in the protection scope of the present application.

Claims

1. A retinol microcapsule, characterized in that: The raw materials for preparation include, by weight: 1-5 parts of retinol or retinol derivatives, 5-20 parts of emulsifiers, 10-20 parts of oil phases, 3-15 parts of collagen peptides, 3-15 parts of polyphenols, 5-25 parts of polyols and 30-60 parts of water.

2. The retinol microcapsule according to claim 1, characterized in that The raw materials for preparation include, by weight: 5 parts of retinol or retinol derivatives, 15 parts of emulsifiers, 15 parts of oil phases, 7 parts of collagen peptides, 7 parts of polyphenols, 10 parts of polyols and 36 parts of water.

3. The retinol microcapsule according to claim 1, characterized in that The polyol includes one or more of glycerol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,3-propylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and glycerol polyether-26.

4. The retinol microcapsule according to claim 1, characterized in that The emulsifier includes one or more of cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, sorbitan ester-20, PEG-20 methyl sesquiglucoside, sorbitan isostearate, bis-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 polydimethylsiloxane, and methyl sesquiglucoside.

5. The retinol microcapsule according to claim 1, characterized in that: The polyphenols include one or more of licorice extract, seabuckthorn extract, scutellaria extract, ginkgo leaf extract, tea extract, EGCG, tea polyphenols, theaflavins, grape seed extract, anthocyanins, and curcumin.

6. The retinol microcapsule according to claim 1, characterized in that The oil phase includes one or more of caprylic / capric triglyceride, dimethicone, shea butter, squalane, jojoba oil, olive oil, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl palmitate, coconut oil, avocado oil, isododecane, corn oil, palm oil, polyisobutene, coconut oil-caprylate / caprate, pentaerythritol tetracaprylate, isopropyl myristate, and sweet almond oil.

7. A method for preparing retinol microcapsules, characterized in that: include: Mix retinol or a retinol derivative, an oil phase and an emulsifier, and stir and dissolve them at 60-65° C. to obtain an oil phase mixed solution; After mixing water, polyols, polyphenols and collagen peptides, stirring and dissolving at 20-35° C., a water phase mixture is obtained; The oil phase mixture is added to the water phase mixture, and sheared and emulsified at a rotation speed of 6000 r / min for 5 minutes to obtain a microcapsule emulsion; The microcapsule emulsion was spray dried at a feed rate of 5 mL / min and a temperature of 150° C. to obtain retinol microcapsules.

8. A cosmetic composition, characterized in that The retinol microcapsule comprises the retinol microcapsule described in any one of claims 1 to 6.

9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 8, characterized in that The cosmetic composition is in the form of toner, essence, cream, lotion, gel, jelly or facial mask.

10. The retinol microcapsules according to any one of claims 1 to 6 are mild and non-irritating and can be used for moisturizing and anti-wrinkle.

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