Increasing water resistance of UV filter containing cosmetic compositions
By using specific cellulose, branched and straight chain saturated C15-C19 alkane mixtures and combinations of fatty acids and dextrin esters in cosmetics, the problem of insufficient water resistance of UV filters in cosmetics is solved, and the sun protection performance is significantly improved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202380043204.0
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-04-04
- Filing Date
- 2023-04-03
- Publication Date
- 2025-01-07
AI Technical Summary
In existing cosmetics, UV filters are insufficient in water, resulting in a decrease in UV protection ability.
The use of specific cellulose in combination with a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes and an ester of fatty acids and dextrins significantly improves the water resistance of UV filters in cosmetics.
It significantly improves the water resistance of UV filters in cosmetics and ensures continuous protection of ultraviolet rays by the skin.
Smart Images

Figure SMS_1 
Figure SMS_12 
Figure SMS_15
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions for protecting the skin from harmful ultraviolet rays. Background Art
[0002] For years, the trend away from elegant paleness and towards a "healthy, sporty tan" has continued uninterrupted. To achieve this, the skin is exposed to sunlight, as this triggers the formation of pigmentation, i.e. melanin. However, the UV rays in sunlight also have damaging effects on the skin. In addition to acute damage (sunburn), overexposure to light in the UV(B) band (wavelength: 280-315 nanometers) increases the risk of skin cancer. Excessive exposure to UV(B) and UV(A) radiation (wavelength: 315-400 nanometers) also weakens the elastin and collagen fibers in the connective tissue. This can lead to numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions and premature skin aging.
[0003] In order to protect the skin, a series of photoprotective filters have been developed for use in cosmetic preparations.
[0004] The ability of a cosmetic composition to protect the skin from UV radiation is usually expressed in terms of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF).
[0005] Exposure of sunscreen cosmetic compositions to water, as typically occurs when bathing, generally results in a significant removal of the UV filters from the skin, which results in a reduction in the protection against UV rays. This can be evidenced by a significant reduction in the SPF of the composition. Summary of the invention
[0006] The problem underlying the present invention was therefore to increase the water resistance of cosmetic compositions which contain at least one UV filter.
[0007] Surprisingly, it was found that a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 can solve this problem.
[0008] In particular, when specific cellulose is used in combination with a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes, and esters of fatty acids and dextrin and added to a cosmetic composition containing a UV filter, the water resistance of the cosmetic composition containing a UV filter can be significantly improved.
[0009] In particular, it was found that the triple combination (combination of specific cellulose / a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes / esters of fatty acids and dextrin) was significantly higher than the double combination (combination of specific cellulose / a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes) (combination of a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes / esters of fatty acids and dextrin).
[0010] Further aspects of the invention are the subject matter of further independent claims. Particularly preferred embodiments are the subject matter of the dependent claims. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0011] A first aspect of the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:
[0012] -UV filters;
[0013] - a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes;
[0014] - Esters of fatty acids and dextrins;
[0015] - cellulose, the cellulose being C 1-6 Alkyl cellulose or hydroxy-C 2-6 Alkyl (C 1-6 Alkyl) cellulose or carboxyl C 1-6 Alkyl (C 1-6 Alkyl)cellulose;
[0016] Wherein, in the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes, the content of branched saturated C15-C19 alkanes is greater than 80% by weight, more preferably greater than 90% by weight, and most preferably greater than 92% by weight.
[0017] In this article, “C x-y -alkyl" group refers to an alkyl group containing x to y carbon atoms. For example, "C 1-3 A "-alkyl" group refers to an alkyl group containing 1 to 3 carbon atoms. The alkyl group may be straight-chain or branched. For example, -CH(CH3)-CH2-CH3 is considered a C4-alkyl group.
[0018] Similarly, a "Cx-y-alkylene" group refers to an alkylene group containing from x to y carbon atoms. 1-3 A "-alkylene" group refers to an alkylene group containing 1 to 3 carbon atoms. An alkylene group can be straight-chain or branched. For example, -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH(CH3)-CH2-, -C(CH2-CH3)-, and -C(CH3)2- are all considered C3-alkylene groups.
[0019] The “C x-y -Alkylcellulose refers to cellulose with C x-y -alkyl groups in cellulose, that is, some of the -OH groups in the cellulose are replaced by -OC x-y For example, the C1-alkyl cellulose is methyl cellulose and the C2-alkyl cellulose is ethyl cellulose.
[0020] "Hydroxy-Cx-y -alkyl (C x-y The term "-alkyl) cellulose" refers to hydroxy-C x-y -alkylcellulose and hydroxy-C x-y -alkyl C x-y -Alkyl cellulose.
[0021] "Hydroxy-C x-y -alkylcellulose refers to cellulose in which some of the -OH groups are replaced by -OC x-y The hydroxy-C3-alkylcellulose is hydroxypropylcellulose.
[0022] "Hydroxy-C x-y -alkyl C x-y -alkylcellulose refers to cellulose in which some of the -OH groups are replaced by -OC x-y -alkylene-OH groups and -OC x-y For example, hydroxy-C2-alkyl C1-alkyl cellulose is hydroxyethyl methyl cellulose.
[0023] "Carboxyl C x-y -alkyl (C x-y The term "carboxyl-C x-y -Alkyl cellulose and carboxyl C x-y -alkyl C x-y -Alkyl cellulose.
[0024] "Carboxyl-C x-y -alkylcellulose refers to cellulose in which some of the -OH groups are replaced by -OC x-y -alkylene-COOH group or -OC x-y -Alkylene-COO - For example, the carboxy-C1-alkyl cellulose is carboxymethyl cellulose.
[0025] "Carboxyl C x-y -alkyl C x-y -alkylcellulose refers to cellulose in which some of the -OH groups are replaced by -OC x-y -alkyl groups and -OC x-y -alkylene-COOH group or -OC x-y -Alkylene-COO - For example, carboxymethyl ethyl cellulose or sodium carboxymethyl ethyl cellulose are both considered carboxy C1-alkyl C2-alkyl cellulose.
[0026] In this document, if the same symbol or radical designation occurs in multiple formulae, the definition of that radical or symbol in the context of one particular formula also applies to the other formulae containing the same designation.
[0027] In the present context, the term "UV filter" refers to substances that are able to absorb ultraviolet light ((=UV light, i.e. electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength between 280 and 400 nanometers). UV(A) filters are UV filters that absorb UV(A) light, i.e. electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength between 315 and 400 nanometers. UV(B) filters are UV filters that absorb UV(B) light, i.e. electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength between 280 and 315 nanometers.
[0028] Liquid organic UV filters are liquid at room temperature (25°C).
[0029] Solid organic UV filters are solid at room temperature (25° C.).
[0030] By "a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes" herein is meant that the mixture comprises different alkanes, each of which contains only 15, 16, 17, 18 or 19 carbon atoms, and does not comprise alkanes with fewer carbon atoms. Thus, such a mixture does not comprise, for example, dodecane or isododecane. The mixture comprises branched and linear C15-C19 alkanes.
[0031] A mixture of branched and straight chain saturated C15-C19 alkanes
[0032] The cosmetic composition comprises a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
[0033] Particularly suitable C15-C19 alkane mixtures are in particular those disclosed in WO 2016 / 185046, WO 2017 / 046177, WO 2018 / 109353 A1 and WO 2018 / 109354 A1 and WO 2018 / 172228 A1.
[0034] Preferably, the content of carbon of biological origin in the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is greater than or equal to 90% of the total weight of the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes. The biological origin of chemicals is very advantageous because such materials are highly sustainable. Highly sustainable products or compositions are very popular in the market.
[0035] The determination of biobased material or biogenic carbon content is performed in accordance with ASTM D 6866-12, Method B (ASTM D 6866-06) and ASTM D 7026 (ASTM D 7026-04). ASTM D 6866 deals with "Determination of the biobased content of natural materials using radiocarbon and isotope ratio mass spectrometry", while ASTM D 7026 deals with "Sampling and reporting of results for the determination of the biobased content of materials by carbon isotope analysis". The second standard refers to the first standard in the first paragraph. The first standard describes the measurement of the sample 14 C / 12 C ratio test method and compare it to a 100% renewable source reference sample 14 C / 12 C ratio to give the relative percentage of carbon from renewable sources in the sample. 14 C dating is based on the same concept.
[0036] It is further preferred that the composition has little or no aromatic hydrocarbon content (less than 100 ppm, especially less than 30 ppm) relative to the total weight of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
[0037] The mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is in particular produced by catalytic hydrogenation of hydrocarbon biomass feedstocks, as described in detail in WO 2016 / 185046, in particular as disclosed as Example 3 in WO 2016 / 185046.
[0038] Preferably, in the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes, the amount of linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is less than 10 wt%, more preferably less than 8 wt%, most preferably greater than 5 wt%.
[0039] It is further preferred that the amount of C15 is less than 3%, in particular less than 1%, more preferably less than 0.05%, relative to the weight of the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
[0040] Preferably, the mixture of branched and straight chain saturated C15-C19 alkanes is a mixture of branched and straight chain saturated C16-C19 alkanes.
[0041] It is further preferred that the amount of branched saturated C16-C18 alkanes is greater than 90% by weight, more preferably greater than 95% by weight, relative to the weight of the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
[0042] It is further preferred that the amount of C15 alkanes is less than 5%, in particular less than 2%, relative to the weight of the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
[0043] It is further preferred that the amount of branched saturated C17-C18 alkanes is greater than 85% by weight, more preferably greater than 92% by weight, relative to the weight of the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
[0044] It is further preferred that the amount of C17 alkanes is between 15 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
[0045] It is further preferred that the amount of branched saturated C18 alkanes is greater than 50 wt%, more preferably greater than 60 wt%, even more preferably greater than 70 wt%, relative to the weight of the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
[0046] It is further preferred that the amount of C18 alkanes is in particular between 70 and 75% relative to the weight of the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
[0047] In other words, the mixture of branched and straight chain saturated C15-C19 alkanes preferably consists primarily of C18 alkanes, and most preferably consists primarily of branched chain C18 alkanes.
[0048] Since the composition comprises a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes, the composition does not contain any lower alkanes, ie it does not contain any C12 alkanes in particular and does not contain any C12 or C13 or C14 alkanes.
[0049] It is further preferred that the viscosity of the mixture of C15-C19 alkanes at 20°C is 3-15 mPa·s, in particular between 6 and 12 mPa·s.
[0050] It is further preferred that the refractive index of the mixture of C15-C19 alkanes at 20°C is between 1.40 and 1.48, in particular between 1.42 and 1.45, most preferably between 1.43 and 1.44.
[0051] It is further preferred that the mixture of C15-C19 alkanes is produced by SEPPIC under the trade name EMOGREEN TM L19 is a C15-C19 alkane mixture sold on the market.
[0052] The amount of the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes, based on the weight of the hair care product, is in the range of 0.5% to 12.0%, particularly in the range of 1.0% to 10.0%, more preferably in the range of 1.5% to 8.0%, and preferably in the range of 2.0% to 6.0%.
[0053] Fatty acid esters with dextrin
[0054] The composition further comprises esters of fatty acids and dextrin.
[0055] Dextrin is an oligomer of D-glucose. Its structure can be simplified as follows:
[0056]
[0057] Dextrins have different average degrees of sugar polymerization, which results in different molecular weights.
[0058] In the present invention, the dextrin in the ester of fatty acid and dextrin preferably has an average sugar polymerization degree of 3 to 20, especially 8 to 16.
[0059] Preferably, the fatty acid in the ester of fatty acid and dextrin is a C14-C18 fatty acid, especially a straight-chain C14-C18 fatty acid, and most preferably palmitic acid.
[0060] A particularly suitable ester of a fatty acid with dextrin is dextrin palmitate, such as that commercially available from Chiba Flour Milling. KL2.
[0061] Dextrin has multiple hydroxyl groups that can be esterified.
[0062] Preferably, the average number of esterified hydroxyl groups per glucose unit in the ester of fatty acid and dextrin is greater than 2.5, preferably between 2.5 and 3.5, more preferably between 2.5 and 3.4, and most preferably between 2.5 and 3.2.
[0063] In one embodiment, the average number of esterified hydroxyl groups per glucose unit in the ester of fatty acid and dextrin is greater than 2.5, preferably between 2.7 and 3.5, more preferably between 2.8 and 3.4, and most preferably between 2.8 and 3.2.
[0064] In another embodiment, the average number of esterified hydroxyl groups per glucose unit in the ester of fatty acid and dextrin is greater than 3, preferably between 3.05 and 3.5, more preferably between 3.1 and 3.4, and most preferably between 3.1 and 3.2.
[0065] In other words, it is preferred that substantially all of the hydroxyl groups of dextrin are esterified.
[0066] It is further preferred that the molecular weight M of the ester of fatty acid and dextrin is n Between 8,000 and 16,000 Daltons, preferably between 9,000 and 13,000 Daltons, more preferably between 10,000 and 11,500 Daltons.
[0067] Molecular weight n It is determined in Daltons (Da), particularly by SEC / GPC methods using polystyrene as standards.
[0068] Both fatty acids and dextrins have biological origin. Biological origin of chemicals is very advantageous because such materials or their products are highly sustainable. There is a high demand in the market for highly sustainable products or compositions.
[0069] The amount of the ester of fatty acid with dextrin is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 15%, particularly in the range of 0.3 to 8.0%, more particularly in the range of 0.6 to 7.0%, more preferably in the range of 1.0 to 6.0%, particularly in the range of 1.5 to 5.0%, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0070] In the composition, the ratio of the weight of the esters of fatty acids and dextrin to the weight of the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is preferably less than 1, preferably between 0.5 and 0.8, most preferably between 0.55 and 0.70.
[0071] In other words, the composition preferably comprises, by weight, more C15-C19 alkanes than esters of fatty acids with dextrins.
[0072] UV filters
[0073] The composition further comprises a UV filter. The UV filter may be an inorganic or organic UV filter, preferably a liquid organic UV filter or a solid organic UV filter.
[0074] Suitable liquid organic UV filters absorb light in the UVB and / or UVA range and are liquid at normal temperature (i.e. 25° C.). Such liquid UV filters are well known to those skilled in the art, in particular cinnamic acid esters, such as octyl methoxycinnamate ( MCX) and isoamyl methoxycinnamate (Neo E1000), salicylates, such as homosalate (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate, HMS) and ethylhexyl salicylate (also known as ethylhexyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate, EHS), acrylates, such as octocrylene (2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 340) and ethyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, benzyl malonates, especially dialkylbenzyl malonates, such as di(2-ethylhexyl)4-methoxybenzyl malonate and polysiloxane 15( SLX), dialkyl naphthoates, such as diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthoate ( TQ), syringylidene maleate, such as diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate ( ST liquid) and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol ( TL) as well as benzophenone-3 and drometrizole trisiloxane.
[0075] A less pronounced reduction in material transfer was observed with organic UV filters based on polysiloxanes, such as polysilicone 15. Therefore, it is preferred that the cosmetic composition does not comprise organic UV filters based on polysiloxanes.
[0076] Particularly advantageous liquid organic UV filters include octyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthoate, diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate, benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol, benzophenone-3, drometrizole trisiloxane and mixtures of these substances.
[0077] In a preferred embodiment, the liquid UV filter is a liquid UV (B) filter selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, benzophenone-3 and drometrizole trisiloxane.
[0078] Suitable solid organic UV filters absorb light in the UVB and / or UVA range and are solid at normal temperature (i.e., 25° C.). Particularly suitable solid UV filters include bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butyramido triazone, 4-methylbenzyl camphor, and 1,4-di(benzoxazol-2'-yl)benzene.
[0079] Preferred solid organic UV(A) filters are UV(A) filters selected from the group of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol and diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.
[0080] Preferred solid organic UV(B) filters are UV(B) filters selected from the group of ethylhexyl triazone (=Uvinul T150), diethylhexyl butyramido triazone (=Uvasorb HEB) and 4-methylbenzyl camphor (=Parsol 5000).
[0081] The total amount of organic UV filters used depends strongly on the targeted UV protection effect.
[0082] Preferably, the amount of solid organic UV filters, in particular the amount of solid organic UV(A) filters, is chosen in the range of 0.1 to about 6 wt.-%, more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 5 wt.-%, most preferably in the range of 1 to 4 wt.-%.
[0083] It is further preferred that the amount of solid organic UV filters, in particular the amount of solid organic UV (B) filters, is selected in the range of 0.1 to about 6 wt. %, more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 5 wt. %, most preferably in the range of 1 to 4 wt. %.
[0084] Even more preferably, the amount of liquid organic UV filters, in particular the amount of liquid organic UV (B) filters, is chosen in the range of 0.1 to about 10 wt.-%, more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 8 wt.-%, most preferably in the range of 1 to 6 wt.-%.
[0085] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises at least two UV filters, at least one of which is a solid or liquid organic UV (A) filter and at least one of which is a solid or liquid organic UV (B) filter.
[0086] In said embodiment, it is preferred that the composition comprises at least two organic UV filters, of which at least one is a solid or liquid organic UV (A) filter and at least one is a solid or liquid organic UV (B) filter.
[0087] Preference is given to the combination of at least one solid organic UV (A) filter and at least one liquid organic UV (B) filter.
[0088] Particularly preferred are the following combinations:
[0089] at least one solid organic UV(A) filter selected from the group consisting of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol and diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate; and
[0090] At least one liquid organic UV (B) filter selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, benzophenone-3 and drometrizole trisiloxane.
[0091] The total amount of organic UV filters used depends strongly on the targeted UV protection effect of the composition and is generally in the range of 1 to 50% by weight, preferably in the range of 5 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0092] For example, for a sunscreen with SPF 15, the preferred total organic UV filter amount is in the range of 4 to 20 wt%, more preferably in the range of 7 to 15 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0093] For example, for a sunscreen with SPF 30, the preferred total organic UV filter amount is in the range of 10 to 40 wt%, more preferably in the range of 15 to 25 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0094] For example, for a sunscreen of SPF 50, the preferred total organic UV filter amount is in the range of 15 to 50 wt%, more preferably in the range of 20 to 40 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0095] In one preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises a UV filter of formula (I).
[0096]
[0097] The UV filter of formula (I) (CAS: [187393-00-6]) is a crystalline solid with a melting point of 83-85°C, also known as Bemotrizinol or 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine or bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (INCI). It is a broad spectrum UV absorber that absorbs both UV(B) and UV(A) light. It has two absorption peaks at 310 and 345 nm and is highly photostable. It is the most effective UV absorber according to SPF measurement, according to the maximum concentrations allowed by European legislation.
[0098] It is commercially available, for example from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. Shield, BASF Escalol from S and Ashland TM S UV filter.
[0099] Due to its polarity, it is very soluble in esters, especially C12-15 alkyl benzoates, however, it is insoluble in water and alkanes.
[0100] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises a UV filter of formula (II).
[0101]
[0102] The UV filter of formula (II) (CAS: [88122-99-0]) is a crystalline solid with a melting point of 129°C and is also known as ethylhexyl triazone (INCI) or octyl triazone. This UV filter is a very effective UV (B) filter with an exceptionally high absorption capacity. Its maximum absorption wavelength is 314 nm. For example, it is available as BASF's It is marketed under the trade name T 150.
[0103] Due to its polarity, it is very soluble in esters, especially ethyl acetate and ethanol, however, it is insoluble in water and alkanes.
[0104] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises a UV filter of formula (III).
[0105]
[0106] The UV filter of formula (III) (CAS: [154702-15-5]) is a light yellow crystalline solid with a melting point of 52-55°C, also known as Iscotrizinol or diethylhexylbutyramidotriazone (INCI). This UV filter is a very effective UV (A) and UV (B) filter with an exceptionally high absorption capacity and very high photostability.
[0107] Its maximum absorption wavelength is about 310nm. It is marketed under the HEB trade name.
[0108] Due to its polarity, it is very soluble in esters and alcohols, especially ethanol, however, it is insoluble in water and alkanes.
[0109] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises a UV filter of formula (IV).
[0110]
[0111] The UV filter of formula (IV) (CAS: [302776-68-7]) is a crystalline solid with a melting point of 54°C and is also known as diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (INCI). The UV filter is a very effective UV (A) filter with a relatively broad absorption range with an absorption maximum at 354 nm. It is marketed as BASF's It is marketed under the trade name A Plus.
[0112] Due to its polarity, it is very soluble in esters, especially ethylhexyl benzoate and ethanol, however, it is insoluble in water and alkanes.
[0113] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises a UV filter of formula (V).
[0114]
[0115] The UV filter of formula (V) (CAS: [6197-30-4]) is a viscous, oily liquid with a melting point of 14°C, clear and colorless. It is also known as 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-acrylate, or Octocrylene (INCI). The extended conjugation of the acrylate part of the molecule absorbs UV (B) rays from 280 to 320 nm, protecting the skin from direct DNA damage. It has an absorption maximum at 310 nm. The UV filter of formula (V) has excellent photostability and is a good solubilizer for solid, crystalline UV filters. For example, it is available as DSM Nutritional Products Ltd.'s 340 Trade name or BASF N 539T is sold on the market. Most preferred is DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. 340 products.
[0116] Due to its polarity, octocrylene has good solubility in propylene carbonate and dipropylene glycol, however, it is insoluble in water and alkanes.
[0117] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises a UV filter of formula (VI).
[0118]
[0119] The UV filter of formula (VI) (CAS: [103597-45-1]) is a solid with a melting point of 197-199° C. It is also known as Bisoctrizole or Methylenebenzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (INCI).
[0120] Bisatriazole is a broad-spectrum UV radiation filter that absorbs both UV(B) and UV(A) rays and has excellent light stability. It has absorption maxima at 308 nm and 349 nm. However, in addition to absorbing UV rays, it also reflects and scatters them. Bisatriazole is therefore a hybrid UV absorber and an organic UV filter produced as fine organic particles (less than 200 nm). While other organic UV filters need to be dissolved in either an oil or water phase, bistriazole is poorly soluble in both phases and is applied in the form of invisible particles.
[0121] Bisaptriazole is mainly available as a micronized powder in a 50% aqueous suspension stabilized by the nonionic surfactant decyl glucoside, such as DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. Max trade name or BASF M, or Everlight Chemical's Eversorb M or Milestab 360. Most preferred is DSM Nutritional Products Ltd.'s Max product.
[0122] Bisaccharotriazole has extremely low solubility in most solvents or cosmetic oils and is practically insoluble or very insoluble, especially in water and alkanes.
[0123] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises a UV filter of formula (VII).
[0124]
[0125] The UV filter of formula (VII) (CAS: [27503-81-7]) is a solid with a melting point greater than 300° C. It is also known as Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid (INCI name) and Ensulizole.
[0126] Ensulizole is a strong UV(B) light filter that specifically absorbs light in the 280-340 nm range with an absorption maximum at 302 nm.
[0127] Ensulizole is a widely used UV filter in sunscreen products. Due to its water solubility, ensulizole is often used in light, less greasy formulas. Due to its low absorption of UV(A) light, it is often used in combination with other UV filters, especially UV(A) filters, especially avobenzone.
[0128] Ensulizole is marketed by Merck KGaA under the trade name 232 and in particular the trade names of DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. HS is sold in the market.
[0129] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises the UV filter of formula (VIII).
[0130]
[0131] The UV filter of formula (VIII) (CAS: [5466-77-3]) is a clear, slightly yellow liquid with a boiling point of about 199°C. It is insoluble in water but soluble in fats, oils and alcohol. It is also known as Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (INCI name) and Octinoxate.
[0132] Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate is a strong UV(B) light filter with an absorption maximum at 310 nm.
[0133] Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate is sold under the trade name of Merck KGaA 2292、BASF's trade name MC80 and, in particular, the trade name of DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. MCX is sold in the market.
[0134] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises the UV filter Polysilicone-15 of formula (IX):
[0135]
[0136] and P is about 60; and
[0137] R is
[0138]
[0139] The UV filter of formula (IX) (CAS: [207574-74-1]) is a colorless to pale yellow viscous liquid that is insoluble in water but soluble in organic solvents of medium polarity and typical cosmetic oils. It is also known as dimethicodiethylbenzal-malonate.
[0140] Polysilicone-15 is a UV(B) light filter with a maximum absorption peak at approximately 310 nm.
[0141] Polysilicone-15 is from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. It is marketed under the trade name SLX.
[0142] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises an inorganic UV filter which is a double coated TiO2, preferably rutile TiO2, having an inner silica gel layer and an outer organic coating, typically dimethicone, and is a UV(B) light filter.
[0143] Preferred UV filters of this type are listed in the catalogues of DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. It is sold on the market under the trade name TX.
[0144] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises a UV filter of formula (X).
[0145]
[0146] The UV filter of chemical formula (X) (CAS: [70356-09-1]) is a white to yellow crystalline powder, insoluble in water, but soluble in isopropyl alcohol, dimethyl sulfoxide, decyl oleate, caprylic acid / capric acid, triglycerides and other oils.
[0147] The UV filter of formula (X) is known as 1-(4-methoxyphenyl)-3-(4-tert-butylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI name), and also as Avobenzone.
[0148] Avobenzone is a highly effective UV(A) light filter that specifically absorbs light in the range of 315 to 380 nanometers, with a maximum absorption peak at 357 nanometers.
[0149] Avobenzone is sold under the trade names ESCALOL 517 by Ashland and 9020, is marketed under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN 357 by Symrise, and in particular under the trade name 1789 sold on the market.
[0150] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises a UV filter of formula (XI).
[0151]
[0152] The UV filter of formula (XI) (CAS: [118-60-5]) is a clear, colorless liquid, insoluble in water and other polar solvents, but soluble in non-polar solvents and cosmetic oils. The UV filter of formula (XI) is known as Ethylhexyl Salicylate (INCI name) or Octyl Salicylate or Octisalate.
[0153] Ethylhexyl salicylate is an effective UV(B) light filter with a maximum absorption peak at 305 nm. Although oxalicylate is a weaker UV(B) light filter, it has better stability than some other sunscreen active ingredients and does not generate reactive oxygen species when exposed to sunlight. Other UV filters, such as avobenzone, can be solubilized by ethylhexyl salicylate.
[0154] Ethylhexyl salicylate is sold under the trade name ESCALOL 587 by Ashland and under the trade name VIZOL by Merck KGaA. OS is marketed under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN OS by Symrise and in particular under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN OS by DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. EHS1789 is available on the market.
[0155] In particular, the UV filters are selected from the group consisting of Ethylhexyl Triazone, Avobenzone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, 2-Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Octocrylene, Polysilicone-15, Iscotrizinol, Titanium Dioxide and Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol.
[0156] The cosmetic composition preferably has a sun protection factor (SPF) of 10 or more, more preferably 20 or more, and even more preferably 30 or more.
[0157] Cellulose
[0158] Cellulose is an organic compound with the molecular formula (C6H 10 O5) m , is a polysaccharide composed of a linear chain of very high numbers (m) (usually hundreds to thousands) of β(1→4) linked D-glucose units.
[0159] Cellulose is the source of C 1-6 -alkylcellulose or hydroxy-C 2-6 -alkyl (C 1-6 -alkyl) cellulose or carboxyl C 1-6 -alkyl (C 1-6 -alkyl)cellulose starting materials which are relevant to the present invention.
[0160] In a preferred embodiment, cellulose is a C 1-6 - alkylcellulose, in particular methylcellulose, ethylcellulose or propylcellulose, preferably methylcellulose or ethylcellulose. 1-6 -Alkylcellulose is usually composed of cellulose and the corresponding C 1-6 -Alkyl halide preparation, especially in alkaline solution.
[0161] Preferred is methylcellulose [9004-67-5], commercially available, for example, as Solterra TM Methocel by Boost or Dow TM A brand product, especially Methocel as Dow TM A4C PCG.
[0162] More preferred is ethyl cellulose [9004-57-3], which is commercially available, particularly as Antaron from Ashland. TM ECo gel.
[0163] In another preferred embodiment, cellulose is a hydroxy-C 2-6 -alkylcellulose, in particular hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose or hydroxybutylcellulose, preferably hydroxyethylcellulose or hydroxypropylcellulose. 2-6 -Alkylcelluloses are usually made of cellulose (especially in alkaline solution) and the corresponding C 2-6 -Alkylene oxide prepared.
[0164] Preferred is hydroxyethylcellulose [9004-62-0], commercially available, particularly as Natrosol from Ashland. TM Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) brand products or DowTM Branded products, more particularly Natrosol as Ashland TM 250HHR CS, or Dow TM HEC QP-15000H Europe PCG Thickener or C TM Hydroxyethyl Cellulose PCG-10Europe, or TM QP 4400H Hydroxyethyl Cellulose.
[0165] In another preferred embodiment, cellulose is a hydroxy-C 2-6 -alkyl C 1-6 - Alkylcelluloses, in particular hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose or hydroxypropylethylcellulose, hydroxyethylpropylcellulose or hydroxypropylpropylcellulose, preferably hydroxyethylmethylcellulose or hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or hydroxyethylethylcellulose or hydroxypropylethylcellulose.
[0166] Hydroxyl-C 2-6 -alkyl C 1-6 -Alkylcelluloses are usually prepared by reacting cellulose (especially in alkaline solution) with the corresponding C 2-6 -alkylene oxide and the corresponding C 1-6 -Alkyl halides.
[0167] Preferred is hydroxyethyl methylcellulose [9032-42-2], particularly as Nouryon CEL4400E is one of those sold in the market.
[0168] More preferred is hydroxypropyl methylcellulose [9004-65-3], which is commercially available, particularly as Benecel from Ashland. TM K200M or Dow's Methocel TM E brand products, Methocel TM F brand products, Methocel TM J Brand Products and Methocel TM K brand products, especially Methocel as Dow TM K15M PCG.
[0169] In another preferred embodiment, cellulose is a carboxy-C 1-6 - Alkylcellulose, in particular carboxymethylcellulose, carboxyethylcellulose or carboxypropylcellulose, preferably carboxymethylcellulose, or salts thereof.
[0170] Carboxyl-C 1-6 -Alkylcelluloses are usually prepared by reacting cellulose (especially in alkaline solution) with the corresponding chloro-C 2-7 -Alkyl acids (especially chloroacetic acid) are prepared.
[0171] Preferred is carboxymethyl cellulose [Blanose TM Sodium carboxymethyl cellulose or CP supplied by Kelco 700 or 2000].
[0172] In another preferred embodiment, cellulose is a carboxylic acid 1-6 -alkyl C 1-6 - Alkylcellulose, in particular carboxymethyl methylcellulose, carboxyethyl methylcellulose or carboxypropyl methylcellulose, carboxymethyl ethylcellulose, carboxyethyl ethylcellulose or carboxypropyl ethylcellulose, carboxymethyl propylcellulose, carboxyethyl propylcellulose or carboxypropyl propylcellulose. Preferably carboxymethyl methylcellulose or carboxyethyl methylcellulose, or a salt thereof.
[0173] Carboxyl C 1-6 -alkyl C 1-6 -Alkylcelluloses are usually prepared by reacting cellulose (especially in alkaline solution) with the corresponding chloro-C 2-7 -alkanoic acids (especially chloroacetic acid) and the corresponding C 1-6 -Alkyl halides.
[0174] It is particularly preferred that the cellulose is selected from the group consisting of methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, propylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylmethylcellulose and carboxymethylethylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose.
[0175] Most preferred is ethylcellulose, particularly Antaron supplied by Ashland. TM ECo gel.
[0176] Preferably, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition, C 1-6 -alkylcellulose or hydroxy-C 2-6 -alkyl (C 1-6 -alkyl) cellulose or carboxyl C 1-6 -alkyl (C 1-6 -alkyl)cellulose is in an amount between 0.01 wt% and 4.0 wt%, in particular between 0.1 wt% and 3.0 wt%, and more preferably between 0.3 wt% and 2.5 wt%.
[0177] Other Ingredients
[0178] Cosmetic compositions typically include other ingredients suitable for use in cosmetic compositions.
[0179] The cosmetic composition preferably comprises water.
[0180] The cosmetic composition may be a suspension or dispersion in a solvent or a fatty substance, or in the form of an emulsion or microemulsion (in particular of the oil-in-water (O / W-) or water-in-oil (W / O-) type, silicon-in-water (Si / W-) or water-in-silicon (W / Si-) type, PIT emulsion, multiple emulsion (for example of the oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O-) or water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W-) type), pickering emulsion, hydrogel, alcohol gel, lipogel, single-phase or multiphase solution or vesicular dispersion or other commonly used forms, which can also be applied by means of a pen, a mask or a spray.
[0181] In all embodiments of the present invention, the preferred cosmetic composition comprises water and is in the form of an emulsion.
[0182] The emulsion comprises in particular an oil phase and an aqueous phase, such as in particular an O / W, W / O, Si / W, W / Si, O / W / O, W / O / W multiple or extract emulsion.
[0183] The total amount of oil phase present in such an emulsion is preferably at least 10 wt.-%, for example in the range of 10 to 60 wt.-%, more preferably in the range of 15 to 50 wt.-%, most preferably in the range of 15 to 40 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0184] The amount of aqueous phase present in such an emulsion is preferably at least 20 wt%, for example in the range of 40 to 90 wt%, more preferably in the range of 50 to 85 wt%, most preferably in the range of 60 to 85 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0185] More preferably, the cosmetic composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, comprising an oil phase dispersed in water and formed in the presence of an O / W or Si / W emulsifier. The preparation of such O / W emulsions is well known to those skilled in the art.
[0186] For example, compositions in the form of O / W emulsions can be provided in the form of all O / W emulsion formulations, such as serums, milks or creams, and they are prepared according to conventional methods. These compositions are preferably used for topical applications and can in particular constitute dermatological or cosmetic compositions, for example for protecting human skin from the adverse effects of ultraviolet rays (anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, moisturizing, sun protection, etc.).
[0187] The cosmetic composition also preferably comprises a humectant or skin humectant, in particular glycerol and / or panthenol and / or propylene glycol and / or Pentavitin, in particular the commercially available D-Panthenol 75L from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd., or PDO with or
[0188] The cosmetic composition further preferably comprises a sensory enhancer, in particular silicon dioxide, preferably commercially available from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. Touch 210.
[0189] Furthermore, the cosmetic composition may comprise conventional oily and fatty components, which may be selected from mineral oils and mineral waxes, oils such as caprylic / capric triglycerides and / or castor oil, oils or waxes and other natural or synthetic oils, and in a preferred embodiment, esters of fatty acids with alcohols such as isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol or fatty alcohols with carbonic acid or fatty acids; alkyl benzoates; and / or silicone oils.
[0190] Fatty substances that can be added in particular to the oil phase of the emulsion, microemulsion, oleogel, aqueous dispersion or lipid dispersion are advantageously chosen from esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl carboxylic acids having 3 to 30 carbon atoms with saturated and / or unsaturated, linear and / or branched alcohols having 3 to 30 carbon atoms and esters of aromatic carboxylic acids with saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols having 3 to 30 carbon atoms. These esters can advantageously be chosen from: octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyldodecyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, oleyl linoleate, linoleyl oleate, linoleyl linoleate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, and synthetic, semisynthetic or natural mixtures of these esters, for example jojoba oil.
[0191] Other particularly suitable fat components for use in hair conditioners include polar oils such as lecithin and fatty acid triglycerides, i.e. saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid triglycerides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and the fatty acid triglycerides are preferably selected from synthetic, semi-synthetic or natural oils (e.g. coconut oil glycerides, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, macadamia oil, etc.); non-polar oils, such as linear and / or branched hydrocarbons and waxes, for example mineral oil, vaseline (petroleum); paraffin, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutene and isohexadecane, the preferred polyolefin is polydecene; dialkyl ethers, such as dicaprylyl ether; linear or cyclic silicone oils, such as preferred cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane; cetyl dimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly(methylphenylsiloxane) and mixtures thereof.
[0192] The following fat components can also be advantageously added to the cosmetic composition: isoeicosane; neopentyl diheptanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate; caprylic / capric glyceride; butylene glycol caprylate / caprate; C 12-13 Alkyl lactate; di-C 12-13 Alkyl tartrate; triisostearyl alcohol; dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate; propylene glycol monoisostearate; tricaprylin; dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly useful to use C 12-15 Mixture of alkyl benzoates and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, C 12-15 A mixture of alkyl benzoates and isotridecyl isononanoate, and C 12-15 A mixture of alkyl benzoates, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
[0193] The oily phase of the cosmetic composition may also comprise natural vegetable or animal waxes, such as beeswax, China wax, bumblebee wax and other insect waxes, as well as shea butter and cocoa butter.
[0194] Suitable silicone oils include dimethylpolysiloxane, diethylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, cyclic siloxane, poly(methylphenylsiloxane), and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl modified silicon compounds which are liquid or solid at room temperature, and mixtures thereof. The number average molecular weight of polydimethylsiloxane (dimethicone) and poly(methylphenylsiloxane) is preferably in the range of 100 to 150,000 g / mol. Preferred cyclic siloxanes include 4 to 8 member rings, such as those commercially available as cyclomethicone.
[0195] In an advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic composition contains in addition a phosphate emulsifier. Preferred phosphate emulsifiers include C8-10 alkyl ethyl phosphates, C9-15 alkyl phosphates, ceteareth-2 phosphate, ceteareth-5 phosphate, ceteth-8 phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, hexadecyl phosphate, C6-10 pareth-4 phosphate, C12-15 pareth-2 phosphate, C12-15 pareth-3 phosphate, DEA-ceteareth-2 phosphate, DEA-hexadecyl phosphate, DEA-oleth-3 phosphate, potassium hexadecyl phosphate, decetheth-4 phosphate, decetheth-6 phosphate and trilaureth-4 phosphate. A particular phosphate emulsifier is potassium hexadecyl phosphate, for example as K is commercially available from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd Kaiseraugst.
[0196] The cosmetic composition may also include cosmetic carriers, excipients and diluents, as well as additives and active ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry, which are suitable for use in cosmetic compositions, such as those described in the Personal Care Products Council's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (http: / / www.personalcarecouncil.org / ), which can be accessed through the online INFO BASE (http: / / online.personalcarecouncil.org / jsp / Home.jsp), but not limited thereto.
[0197] Ingredients of these possible cosmetic compositions are particularly useful for improving performance and / or consumer acceptance, such as preservatives, antioxidants, fatty substances / oils, thickeners, emollients, light-shielding agents, humectants, fragrances, cosurfactants, fillers, chelating agents, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, acidifying or alkalizing agents, viscosity modifiers, and natural hair nutrients, such as plants, fruit extracts, sugar derivatives and / or amino acids, or other ingredients commonly formulated into cosmetic compositions. Depending on the desired product, the necessary amounts of adjuvants and additives can be easily selected by a person skilled in the art and will be illustrated by way of example, without limitation.
[0198] The preferred pH range of the cosmetic composition is 3 to 10, more preferably 4 to 8, and most preferably 4 to 7.5. The pH value can be easily adjusted as needed using an appropriate acid (e.g., citric acid) or base (e.g., sodium hydroxide) according to standard methods in the art.
[0199] In one embodiment, the composition is preferably sulfate-free.
[0200] The term "free" as used herein, for example in "free of sulfate", means that the corresponding substance is present only in less than 0.5% by weight, in particular less than 0.1% by weight, more particularly less than 0.05% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Preferably, "free" means that the corresponding substance is completely absent in the composition.
[0201] The cosmetic composition is preferably a topical composition.
[0202] The term "topical" as used herein refers to external application to keratinous substances, especially the skin, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, mucous membranes and hair, preferably the skin.
[0203] Since topical compositions are intended for topical application, it is understood that they comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a medium that is compatible with keratinous materials such as the skin, mucous membranes and keratinous fibers. In particular, the physiologically acceptable medium is a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
[0204] The term "cosmetically acceptable carrier" refers to all carriers and / or adjuvants and / or diluents customarily used in cosmetic compositions, in particular in sunscreen products.
[0205] Preferred cosmetic compositions are skin care preparations, decorative preparations or functional preparations.
[0206] Examples of skin care preparations include, in particular, sunscreen preparations, anti-aging preparations, preparations for treating photoaging, body oils, body lotions, body gels, therapeutic creams, skin protection ointments, skin powders, moisturizing gels, moisturizing sprays, face and / or body moisturizers, skin tanning preparations (i.e. compositions for artificial / sunless tanning and / or tanning of human skin), for example self-tanning creams, and skin whitening preparations.
[0207] The cosmetic composition is preferably a skin care composition.
[0208] In a most preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition is a sunscreen composition. Sunscreen compositions are sunscreen preparations (sunscreen products), such as sunscreen milks, sunscreen lotions, sunscreen creams, sunscreen oils, sunscreen blocks or day care creams with SPF (sun protection factor). Of particular interest are sunscreen creams, sunscreen lotions, sunscreen milks and sunscreen preparations.
[0209] Cosmetic compositions, in particular topical sunscreen lotions according to the invention, typically have a pH value in the range of 3 to 10, preferably a pH value in the range of 5 to 8, and most preferably a pH value in the range of 6 to 7.5. The pH value can be easily adjusted as required using appropriate acids (e.g., citric acid) or bases (e.g., sodium hydroxide (e.g., aqueous solution), triethanolamine (TEA Care), trimethylamine (Trizma Base), and aminomethylpropanol (AMP-Ultra PC 2000)) according to standard methods in the art.
[0210] The amount of the cosmetic composition applied to the skin is not a critical factor and can be easily adjusted by a skilled person. The preferred amount is selected in the range of 0.1 to 3 mg / cm2 skin, such as preferably in the range of 0.1 to 2 mg / cm2 skin, most preferably in the range of 0.5 to 2 mg / cm2 skin.
[0211] It has been shown that the above cosmetic compositions have improved water resistance. It has been shown that by adding the above specific cellulose and a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes and the above esters of fatty acids and dextrins to a cosmetic composition containing UV filters, the water resistance of the composition can be significantly improved.
[0212] Water resistance can be evaluated by the change in sun protection factor (SPF) after controlled underwater exposure. More details are given in the experimental section.
[0213] A further method for evaluating water resistance that has been established is based on the contact angle or the change in diameter of a water droplet on a surface, see for example the study by Hagens R. et al., "Contact angle measurement-a reliable supportive method for screening water-resistance of ultraviolet-protecting products in vivo", International. J. Cosm. Sci, 2007, 29, 283-291. This method is particularly easy and quick to perform. More details will be given in the experimental section.
[0214] Therefore, in another aspect, the present invention relates to a use of cellulose, wherein the cellulose is C 1-6 -alkylcellulose or hydroxy-C 2-6 -alkyl (C 1-6 -alkyl) cellulose or carboxyl C 1-6 -alkyl (C 1-6 -alkyl)cellulose;
[0215] The cellulose is used in combination with a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes and esters of fatty acids and dextrins;
[0216] For increasing the water resistance of cosmetic compositions containing at least one UV filter;
[0217] Wherein, in the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes, the amount of branched saturated C15-C19 alkanes is greater than 80 weight %, preferably greater than 90 weight %, and most preferably greater than 92 weight %.
[0218] The definitions and preferences of the above ingredients have been described in detail above.
[0219] Example
[0220] The following examples are intended to further illustrate the composition of the present invention and its effects. These examples are for illustration only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way.
[0221] Cosmetic compositions as outlined in Table 1 or Table 2 have been prepared according to standard methods in the art.
[0222] Water resistance (change in SPF after exposure to water)
[0223] 1.3 mg / cm2 of each composition shown in Table 1 was applied on 3 PMMA plates (mold HD6) and spread evenly into a layer. Then, the plates were dried at room temperature for 15 minutes. After that, the initial in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) (SPF 初始 ). The panels were then immersed in a flask containing 4 liters of double distilled water for 20 minutes while stirring the water at 150 rpm using a paddle stirrer and the water temperature was maintained at 30°C (the panels were clamped to the edge of the flask with the side coated with the composition facing into the flask). After immersion, the panels were dried at 40°C for 30 minutes. The immersion / drying process was repeated once more. After final drying, the panels were cooled to room temperature and the post-immersion in vitro SPF values (SPF 浸泡 ), calculate the water resistance (WR) as follows:
[0224] WR=[(SPF 浸泡 / SPF 初始 )]
[0225] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0226] Table 1. Cosmetic compositions and their water resistance (SPF) (all ingredients are given in weight percentage)
[0227]
[0228]
[0229] 1 Dextrin palmitate:M n = 11,300-11,500Da, determined by SEC / GPC
[0230] The results of Table 1 show that the cosmetic compositions containing different UV filters (reference 1) have relatively low SPF water resistance. When the composition further contains a specific required cellulose (reference 2), the water resistance is improved. This improvement is smaller than the improvement when the composition contains esters of dextrin and fatty acids (reference 3). When the composition contains esters of fatty acids and dextrin and a specific required cellulose in addition to a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes, the water resistance is significantly improved (1 compared with reference 1, reference 2, reference 3).
[0231] Water resistance (change in drop size on surface after exposure to water)
[0232] 1.2 mg / cm2 of each composition outlined in Table 2 was applied to three PMMA plates ( 5 μm) and spread on the plate into a uniform layer. Then, the plates were dried at room temperature for 5 minutes. After that, a 0.1 ml drop of distilled water was added in the middle of the plate.
[0233] After the surface was exposed to water in the droplets for 1 minute, a photograph was taken and the diameter of the droplets was measured. The average of the droplet diameters produced on 3 plates for each composition is given in Table 2 (Drop Size), as well as the standard deviation (STD) determined from the individual measurements.
[0234] The smaller the diameter of the water droplets, the more water-resistant the cosmetic formulation.
[0235] The results of Table 2 confirm the findings of Table 1. The results of Table 2 show that the cosmetic composition containing different UV filters (reference 4) has a relatively large diameter and therefore has a low water resistance. When the composition further contains esters of dextrin and fatty acids (reference 5), the diameter of the water droplets is significantly reduced, and thus the water resistance is improved. The same is true if a specific required cellulose (reference 6) is added to the composition (reference 4), and thus the water resistance is also improved. When the composition contains esters of fatty acids and dextrin and a specific required cellulose in addition to a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes, the water resistance is significantly improved (2 compared to reference 4, reference 5, reference 6), which can be seen by the significant reduction in the diameter of water droplets on the surface of the composition.
[0236] Table 2. Cosmetic compositions and their water resistance (drop size) (all ingredients are given in weight percentage)
[0237]
[0238]
[0239] 1 Dextrin palmitate:M n =11,300-11,500 Da, determined by SEC / GPC.
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition comprising: -UV filters; - a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes; and - esters of fatty acids and dextrins; and - cellulose, the cellulose being C 1-6 -alkylcellulose or hydroxy-C 2-6 -alkyl (C 1-6 -alkyl) cellulose or carboxyl C 1-6 -alkyl (C 1-6 -alkyl)cellulose in, The content of branched saturated C15-C19 alkanes in the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is greater than 80% by weight, preferably greater than 90% by weight, and most preferably greater than 92% by weight.
2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The content of linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes in the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 8% by weight, and most preferably greater than 5% by weight.
3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that The content of branched saturated C18 alkanes is greater than 50% by weight, preferably greater than 60% by weight, even more preferably greater than 70% by weight, relative to the weight of the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
4. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, characterised in that The fatty acid in the ester of fatty acid and dextrin is a C14-C18 fatty acid, in particular a straight-chain C14-C18 fatty acid, most preferably palmitic acid.
5. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that The dextrin in the ester of fatty acid and dextrin has an average sugar polymerization degree of between 3 and 20, in particular between 8 and 16.
6. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, characterised in that The esters of fatty acids and dextrins have an average number of esterified hydroxyl groups per glucose unit greater than 2.5, preferably between 2.5 and 3.5, more preferably between 2.5 and 3.4, most preferably between 2.5 and 3.
2.
7. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, characterised in that The molecular weight M of the ester of fatty acid and dextrin n Between 8,000 and 16,000 Da, preferably between 9,000 and 13,000 Da, more preferably between 10,000 and 11,500 Da.
8. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, characterised in that The UV filter is selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl triazone, avobenzone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, polysilicone-15, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, titanium dioxide and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol.
9. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that The cellulose is selected from the group consisting of methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, propylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylmethylcellulose and carboxymethylethylcellulose, in particular ethylcellulose.
10. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, characterised in that The cellulose content is between 0.01 and 4.0 wt %, particularly between 0.1 and 3.0 wt %, and preferably between 0.3 and 2.5 wt %, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
11. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that Based on the weight of the cosmetic composition, the content of the branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkane mixture is between 0.5 and 12.0% by weight, in particular between 1.0 and 10.0% by weight, more preferably between 1.5 and 8.0% by weight, and preferably between 2.0 and 6.0% by weight.
12. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, characterised in that The content of the ester of fatty acid and dextrin is between 0.3 and 8.0 wt %, especially between 0.6 and 7.0 wt %, more preferably between 1.0 and 6.0 wt %, especially between 1.5 and 5.0 wt %, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
13. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that The composition comprises water and is in the form of an emulsion.
14. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, characterised in that The composition has a sun protection factor (SPF) of 10 or more, preferably 20 or more, more preferably 30 or more.
15. Use of a cellulose combination to increase the water resistance of a cosmetic composition comprising at least a UV filter; wherein: The cellulose is C 1-6 -alkylcellulose or hydroxy-C 2-6 -alkyl (C 1-6 -alkyl) cellulose or carboxyl C 1-6 -alkyl (C 1-6 -alkyl) cellulose; the content of branched saturated C15-C19 alkanes in the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is greater than 80% by weight, preferably greater than 90% by weight, and most preferably greater than 92% by weight.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Process for the production of biodegradable hydrocarbon fluids
WO2016185046A1
Biosourced emollient composition comprising isoparaffins
WO2017046177A1
Method for improving the sensorial properties of oil-in-water emulsions, to reduce the adhesive effect of such glycerin-based oil-in-water emulsions
WO2018109353A1
Method for improving the sensorial properties of oil-in-water emulsions
WO2018109354A1
Biosourced gelled composition
WO2018172228A1