Garment tie-dyeing process based on natural vegetable dye

Abstract

The invention discloses a garment tie-dyeing process based on natural plant dye, and relates to the technical field of garment tie-dyeing, the garment tie-dyeing process comprises dye collection and preparation and garment pretreatment, during dye collection and preparation, natural plants are selected according to dyeing requirements, and the selected natural plants are treated; the ready-to-wear garment pretreatment is used for pretreating ready-to-wear garments to be tie-dyed. According to the method, the natural plant dye is extracted through synergistic use of an enzymolysis method and ultrasonic-microwave, plant cell walls are destroyed from internal and external aspects, the extraction efficiency of the dye is greatly improved, pigment components in plants can be extracted more sufficiently, more completely and more uniformly through the synergistic extraction mode, and the extraction efficiency of the dye is improved. The problem of incomplete pigment extraction possibly caused by a single extraction method is avoided, so that the extracted dye is fuller and purer in color and more stable in hue, meanwhile, the binding force between the dye and fabric fibers is favorably improved, and the color fastness to rubbing and the color fastness to washing of the dyed fabric are further enhanced.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of garment tie-dyeing, in particular to a garment tie-dyeing process based on natural plant dyes. Background Art

[0002] Garment tie-dyeing is the application of modern anti-dyeing science and technology and various special techniques on various textile fabrics and garments. The dyed fabric is twisted into knots with thread, then printed and dyed. The twisted thread is then removed to create flat, three-dimensional or monochrome and multi-color blended patterns with modern aesthetic significance. Tie-dyeing can be used not only for clothing, but also for dyeing various fabrics and various types of clothing. The existing garment tie-dyeing process makes it difficult to fully extract the pigment components in plant cells, which seriously affects the quality of subsequent garment dyeing.

[0003] The defects of the existing garment tie-dyeing process are: 1. The existing tie-dyeing process is difficult to fully extract the pigment components in plant cells when extracting plant dyes, which seriously affects the quality of subsequent garment dyeing; 2. The color fastness of natural plant dyes used in the existing tie-dyeing process is average, which seriously affects the subsequent dyeing rate; 3. The color fastness of tie-dyed garments prepared by the existing tie-dyeing process is limited. Even if a color fixing agent is used to treat the garment, a single color fixing agent is difficult to meet the color fixing requirements of different plant dyes and fabric materials; 4. The existing tie-dyeing process is difficult to ensure uniformity of the tie-dyeing effect. Summary of the invention

[0004] The object of the present invention is to provide a garment tie-dyeing process based on natural plant dyes to solve the problems raised in the above background technology.

[0005] To achieve the above-mentioned object, the present invention provides the following technical solutions: a garment tie-dyeing process based on natural plant dyes, comprising dye collection and preparation and garment pretreatment, wherein the dye collection and preparation selects natural plants according to dyeing requirements, and processes the selected natural plants to obtain dyes, and the garment pretreatment pre-treats the garments to be tie-dyed; The dye collection and preparation includes plant pretreatment, dye extraction, dye filtration and purification, dye concentration adjustment and dye modification treatment. The plant pretreatment uses clean water to clean the natural plant raw materials, and then uses a grinder to grind the plant raw materials into 2-3 mm particles, wherein the rotation speed of the grinder is 500-1000rpm, and the grinding time is 10-30min. The dye extraction uses an enzymatic method and an ultrasonic-microwave collaborative method to extract the dye in the plant. The dye filtration and purification filters and purifies the extracted dye to obtain a clear dye solution. The dye concentration adjustment uses water to dilute the dye solution to obtain a dilution with a concentration of 4% to 6%. The dye modification treatment uses a combination of ultraviolet irradiation and microencapsulation to modify the dilution.

[0006] Preferably, the dye modification treatment includes ultraviolet irradiation treatment and microencapsulation treatment; Ultraviolet irradiation treatment: place the diluted solution in an ultraviolet irradiation device and irradiate for 2 to 4 hours at a wavelength of 200 to 300 nm and an intensity of 8 to 10 mW / cm2; Microencapsulation treatment: first dissolve gelatin in water to form a wall material solution, then disperse the plant dye solution treated with ultraviolet light in the wall material solution, and form an emulsion by ultrasonic emulsification, wherein the ultrasonic power is 200-300W and the emulsification time is 15-25min. Then adjust the temperature of the emulsion to 60-90°C and the pH value to 4-4.5, and treat for 20-50min to form a suspension to obtain a microencapsulated modified natural plant dye.

[0007] Preferably, the garment tie-dyeing process further comprises tying the fabric, dyeing process, post-processing and performance testing, wherein the tying fabric uses a string and a rubber band to tie the garment, the dyeing process uses an immersion dyeing method to immerse the tied fabric in dye, the post-processing performs color fixing and optimization treatment on the dyed garment to finally obtain a garment tie-dye product, and the performance test performs performance testing on the obtained garment tie-dye product; The dyeing process includes dye liquor preheating, tie-dyeing process and mordanting treatment. The dye liquor preheating is to add a plant ash solution into the dye liquor, the volume ratio of the dye liquor to the plant ash solution is 20 to 50 milliliters of the plant ash solution per liter of dye liquor, and the temperature of the dye liquor is adjusted to 40 to 70° C. The tie-dyeing process is to put the tied garments into a preheated dye vat for treatment for 0.5 to 4 hours, during which the garments need to be turned over. The mordanting treatment is to put the tie-dyed garments into a mordanting solution for mordanting, wherein the temperature of the mordanting solution is 40 to 60° C., and the mordanting treatment time is 0.5 to 1 hour.

[0008] Preferably, the post-treatment includes cleaning, thread removal, color fixing treatment, steam treatment and drying and ironing. The cleaning is to take the dyed garment out of the dyeing vat and rinse it with clean water. The thread removal is to remove the ropes, clips and other tools tied to the garment. The color fixing treatment is to soak the dyed garment in 10% salt water, take out the garment and drain it after 40 to 50 minutes, and then soak it in a color fixing agent for 30 to 60 minutes. The steam treatment is to place the garment at a steam temperature of 100 to 120° C. for 20 to 30 minutes. The drying and ironing is to dry the garment and then iron it.

[0009] Preferably, the garment pretreatment includes washing, desizing treatment, and pre-shrinking treatment. The washing comprises soaking the garment in 30-40°C clean water at a stirring speed of 30-50rpm for 20-50min. The desizing treatment comprises soaking the washed garment in 30-50°C warm water containing amylase, wherein the mass-volume ratio of water to amylase is 1-2 grams of amylase per liter of water, and stirring is performed at a speed of 30-50rpm. After soaking for 0.5-1.5h, the garment is rinsed with 30°C clean water. The pre-shrinking treatment comprises placing the washed silk garment in water for 40-50min, adding white vinegar and soaking for 10-20min, wherein the volume ratio of water to white vinegar is 10-15 milliliters of white vinegar per liter of water. After soaking, the water is squeezed out, the garment is laid flat to dry, and then the garment is ironed at a low temperature of 100-120°C.

[0010] Preferably, the dye extraction comprises enzymatic hydrolysis, enzyme inactivation treatment and ultrasound-microwave; Enzymatic hydrolysis method: the pretreated plant particles are placed in a buffer solution containing enzymes, the pH of the buffer solution is 5, and the enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out at a temperature of 35°C to 45°C for 2 to 2.5 hours to form a mixed solution; Enzyme inactivation treatment: then place the mixture in a high temperature heating environment of 95°C for 5 to 10 minutes; Ultrasonic-microwave: Use the synergistic effect of ultrasonic extraction and microwave extraction to extract plant dyes and obtain extracts; The ultrasound-microwave comprises preliminary ultrasound treatment, microwave treatment and re-ultrasound treatment; Preliminary ultrasonic treatment: Then, the mixed solution is placed in an ultrasonic device and ultrasonically treated for 20 to 25 minutes at an ultrasonic power of 200 to 300 W; Microwave treatment: The mixed solution after ultrasonic treatment is then transferred to a microwave device and treated at a microwave power of 400 to 500 W for 8 to 10 minutes; Ultrasonic treatment again: The mixed solution after microwave treatment is then ultrasonically treated again, with an ultrasonic power of 100 to 200 W and an ultrasonic time of 20 to 25 min to obtain an extract.

[0011] Preferably, the dye filtration and purification includes filtration separation and purification treatment; Filtration separation: Use filter paper to filter the extract to remove plant residues in the extract; Purification: Then, the dye solution is further purified by centrifugation at a speed of 3000 to 4000 rpm for 10 to 15 minutes to obtain a clarified dye solution.

[0012] Preferably, the performance test includes a color fastness test, a dimensional stability test and a color test; Color fastness test: According to the national standard GB / T3921-2008 "Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness to Washing with Soap", the washing grade is evaluated by comparing the color changes of dyed garments and adjacent fabrics. According to GB / T5713-2013 "Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness to Water", the water fastness grade is evaluated. According to GB / T3920-2008 "Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness to Rubbing", the dry rubbing fastness grade and wet rubbing fastness grade are evaluated. According to GB / T8427-2019 "Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc", the color fastness to light is evaluated. According to GB / T14576-2009 "Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness to Light and Sweat Composite Color Fastness", the color fastness to light and sweat is evaluated. Dimensional stability test: Test according to GB / T8629-2017 "Household washing and drying procedures for textile testing" to obtain shrinkage, and test according to GB / T3923.1-2013 "Tensile properties of textile fabrics - Part 1: Determination of breaking strength and elongation at break (strip method)" to obtain breaking strength and elongation at break; Color test: Use a spectrophotometer to measure the middle, upper left, upper right, lower right and lower left parts of the garment to assess the level of dyeing. Use a spectrophotometer to measure the color data of the standard sample and assess the difference in the color of the cylinder.

[0013] Preferably, the fixing agent is prepared by mixing tannic acid solution, chitosan solution and plant gum solution in a mass ratio of (2-3):(2-3):1, and the mordant solution is prepared by mixing water, alum and ferrous sulfate in a mass ratio of (100-300):(1-3):(1-2).

[0014] Preferably, the natural plant is one of madder, sappan wood, indigo, isatis root, ilex branches and leaves, gardenia, sophora japonica, perilla and gallnut, and the enzyme in the enzyme-containing buffer is one or more of cellulase, pectinase, protease and hemicellulase.

[0015] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects: 1. The present invention extracts natural plant dyes by using enzymatic hydrolysis in coordination with ultrasound-microwave. The enzymatic hydrolysis decomposes the chemical components of the cell wall from the inside, while the ultrasound-microwave applies a physical effect from the outside to rupture the cell wall more thoroughly, destroying the plant cell wall from both the inside and the outside, thereby obtaining a higher dye extraction amount in a shorter time, greatly improving the dye extraction efficiency. This coordinated extraction method can extract the pigment components in the plant more fully, more completely and more evenly, avoiding the problem of incomplete pigment extraction that may be caused by a single extraction method, thereby making the extracted dye color fuller and purer, and the color tone more stable, and at the same time, it is beneficial to improve the bonding force between the dye and the fabric fiber, thereby enhancing the color fastness to rubbing and the color fastness to washing of the dyed fabric.

[0016] 2. The present invention modifies the extracted natural plant dyes by combining ultraviolet irradiation treatment with microencapsulation. The extracted dyes are firstly subjected to ultraviolet irradiation treatment to change the structure of the dye molecules so that they are easier to combine with the wall material of the microcapsule. Then, the dye molecules modified by ultraviolet irradiation are further protected by microencapsulation to prevent the dyes from being damaged by the external environment during subsequent use. During the dyeing process, the microcapsules can slowly release the dyes so that the dyes are more evenly distributed on the fabric fibers, making the adsorption and combination of the dyes on the fabrics more firm, thereby significantly improving the light fastness, washing fastness, rubbing fastness and dyeing rate of the natural plant dyes.

[0017] 3. The present invention adds plant ash to the dye liquor, and performs mordant dyeing with a novel mordant after tie-dyeing. The aluminum ions ionized by alum in the aqueous solution and the ferrous ions ionized by ferrous sulfate react with the functional groups in the natural plant dye molecules to form coordination compounds, which can also interact with the active groups on the fabric fibers. The proportion of each component in the mordant is determined according to the material of the plant dye and the garment, so that the mordant effect of alum and ferrous sulfate can be more effectively exerted to make the color more vivid and firm. The dyed garment is subjected to color fixing treatment by a novel color fixing agent. The color fixing agent of the mixed components can play a role in multiple aspects, complement each other, and enhance the color fixing effect. The mixed color fixing agent can broaden the application scope of the plant dye and the fabric material to a certain extent by adjusting the proportion of the components.

[0018] 4. The present invention formulates standardized garment pretreatment processes and parameters, performs desizing and preshrinkage treatment on wool and silk garments, strictly controls the treatment time, temperature and dosage of reagents, ensures that the pretreatment effect of the garment fabric is uniform, lays a good foundation for subsequent dyeing, and helps to improve the overall effect of subsequent tie-dyeing to a certain extent. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0019] The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention are described clearly and completely. Obviously, the described embodiments are only part of the embodiments of the present invention, not all of the embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without creative work are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0020] The invention provides a garment tie-dyeing process based on natural plant dyes, including dye collection and preparation, garment pretreatment, tying fabrics, dyeing process, post-treatment and performance testing; Dye collection and preparation: First, pretreat the madder into 3mm particles, then use enzymatic hydrolysis and ultrasonic-microwave synergistic methods to extract the dyes in the plant, put the pretreated plant particles into an enzyme-containing buffer solution, the pH of the buffer solution is 5, and enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out at a temperature of 40°C for 2 hours to form a mixed solution, and then the mixed solution is placed in a high-temperature heating environment of 95°C for 10 minutes, and then the plant dye is extracted by the synergistic effect of ultrasonic extraction and microwave extraction, and the mixed solution is placed in an ultrasonic device, and ultrasonic treatment is carried out for 20 to 25 minutes under the condition of an ultrasonic power of 200 to 300 W, and then the ultrasonically treated mixed solution is transferred to a microwave device, and treated for 10 minutes under the condition of a microwave power of 400 W, and then the microwave-treated mixed solution is ultrasonically treated again, with an ultrasonic power of 100 to 200 W and an ultrasonic time of 20 to 25 m in, obtain an extract, filter the extract with filter paper, and then further purify it by centrifugation, centrifuge at a speed of 3000rpm for 15min to obtain a clear dye solution, and then dilute the dye solution with water to a corresponding concentration according to the specific material of the garment, and then place the dilution in an ultraviolet irradiation device, irradiate for 2-4h at a wavelength of 200-300nm and an intensity of 8-10mW / cm2, and then dissolve gelatin in water to form a wall material solution, and then disperse the plant dye solution treated with ultraviolet irradiation in the wall material solution, and form an emulsion by ultrasonic emulsification, wherein the ultrasonic power is 200-300W, and the emulsification time is 15-25min, and then adjust the temperature of the emulsion to 80℃, the pH value is 4, and treat for 40min to form a suspension, and obtain microencapsulated modified natural plant dye; Garment pretreatment: soak the garment in 30°C clean water at a stirring speed of 40rpm for 40min. The desizing treatment uses 40°C warm water containing amylase to soak the washed garment, wherein the mass-volume ratio of water to amylase is 1g of amylase per liter of water, and stirs at a speed of 50rpm. After soaking for 0.5h, rinse with 30°C clean water. The preshrinking treatment puts the washed silk garment in water for 40min, adds white vinegar and soaks for 15min, wherein the volume ratio of water to white vinegar is 15ml of white vinegar per liter of water. After soaking, squeeze out the water, lay flat to dry, and then iron the garment at a low temperature of 100°C. Tie the fabric tightly: Use string and rubber bands to tie the garment tightly; Dyeing process: add plant ash solution to the dye liquor, the volume ratio of the dye liquor to the plant ash solution is 30 ml of plant ash solution per liter of dye liquor, and adjust the temperature of the dye liquor to 50°C, then put the tied garment into the preheated dye vat, and treat for 2 hours. The garment needs to be turned over during the process, and then put the tie-dyed garment into the mordant liquid for mordant dyeing, wherein the temperature of the mordant liquid is 50°C, and the mordant dyeing treatment time is 1 hour, wherein the mordant liquid is prepared by mixing water, alum and ferrous sulfate in a mass ratio of 100:2:1; Post-treatment: Take the dyed garments out of the dye vat, rinse them with clean water, and then remove the ropes, clips and other tools tied to the garments. Then soak the dyed garments in 10% salt water for 40 minutes, take them out and drain them, then soak them in a fixing agent for 50 minutes, and then place the garments at a steam temperature of 100°C for 30 minutes. Finally, dry the garments and iron them flat. The fixing agent is prepared from tannic acid solution, chitosan solution and plant gum solution in a mass ratio of 2:3:1. Chitosan is dissolved in 3% acetic acid solution to prepare a 2% chitosan solution. Tannic acid is dissolved in water to prepare a 10% tannic acid solution. Plant gum is dissolved in water to prepare a 5% plant gum solution.

[0021] Furthermore, taking madder as the raw material of natural plant dyes and silk as garments as an example, the values ​​in dye collection and preparation were changed, and garment pretreatment, fabric tying, dyeing process and post-treatment were carried out, and finally the tie-dyed garments were tested for color fastness, dimensional stability and color.

[0022] Embodiment 1: Dye collection and preparation: First, the madder is pretreated into 3mm particles, and then the enzymatic method and ultrasound-microwave synergistic method are used to extract the dye from the plant. The pretreated plant particles are placed in an enzyme-containing buffer solution with a pH of 5. The enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out at a temperature of 40°C for 2 hours to form a mixed solution, and then the mixed solution is placed in a high-temperature heating environment of 95°C for 10 minutes. Then, the plant dye is extracted by the synergistic effect of ultrasonic extraction and microwave extraction. The mixed solution is placed in an ultrasonic device and ultrasonically treated for 20 minutes at an ultrasonic power of 200W. Then, the ultrasonically treated mixed solution is transferred to a microwave device and treated for 10 minutes at a microwave power of 400W. Subsequently, the microwave-treated mixed solution is ultrasonically treated again at an ultrasonic power of 110W and an ultrasonic time of 21. min to obtain an extract, which is filtered using filter paper, and then further purified by centrifugation at a speed of 3000 rpm for 15 minutes to obtain a clear dye solution, which is then diluted with water to a corresponding concentration according to the specific material of the garment, and then the dilution is placed in an ultraviolet irradiation device and irradiated for 3 hours at a wavelength of 200 nm and an intensity of 8 mW / cm2, and then gelatin is dissolved in water to form a wall material solution, and then the plant dye solution treated with ultraviolet irradiation is dispersed in the wall material solution, and an emulsion is formed by ultrasonic emulsification, wherein the ultrasonic power is 200 W and the emulsification time is 20 minutes, and then the temperature of the emulsion is adjusted to 80°C and the pH value is 4, and the treatment is performed for 40 minutes to form a suspension to obtain a microencapsulated modified natural plant dye.

[0023] Further, the washing grade was measured to be 4, the water resistance grade was 4, the dry rubbing fastness grade was 3, the wet rubbing fastness grade was 2, the light fastness grade was 3, the sweat light fastness grade was 3, the shrinkage rate was 4%, the breaking strength was 247N, the breaking elongation was 17%, the dyeing levelness grade was 3, and the cylinder difference grade was 3.

[0024] Embodiment 2: Dye collection and preparation: First, the madder is pretreated into 3mm particles, and then the enzymatic method and ultrasound-microwave synergistic method are used to extract the dyes in the plant. The pretreated plant particles are placed in an enzyme-containing buffer solution with a pH of 5. The enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out at a temperature of 40°C for 2 hours to form a mixed solution, and then the mixed solution is placed in a high-temperature heating environment of 95°C for 10 minutes. Then, the plant dye is extracted by the synergistic effect of ultrasonic extraction and microwave extraction. The mixed solution is placed in an ultrasonic device and ultrasonically treated for 20 minutes at an ultrasonic power of 220W. Then, the ultrasonically treated mixed solution is transferred to a microwave device and treated for 10 minutes at a microwave power of 400W. Then, the microwave-treated mixed solution is ultrasonically treated again with an ultrasonic power of 120W and an ultrasonic time of 25m. in, obtain an extract, filter the extract with filter paper, and then further purify it by centrifugation, centrifuge at a speed of 3000rpm for 15min to obtain a clear dye solution, and then dilute the dye solution with water to a corresponding concentration according to the specific material of the garment, and then place the dilution in an ultraviolet irradiation device, irradiate for 3h at a wavelength of 200nm and an intensity of 10mW / cm2, then dissolve gelatin in water to form a wall material solution, and then disperse the plant dye solution treated with ultraviolet irradiation in the wall material solution, and form an emulsion by ultrasonic emulsification, wherein the ultrasonic power is 240W and the emulsification time is 20min, and then adjust the temperature of the emulsion to 80℃ and the pH value to 4, treat for 40min, form a suspension, and obtain a microencapsulated modified natural plant dye.

[0025] Further, the washing grade was measured to be 4, the water resistance grade was 5, the dry rubbing fastness grade was 4, the wet rubbing fastness grade was 3, the light fastness grade was 4, the sweat light fastness grade was 3, the shrinkage rate was 4%, the breaking strength was 263N, the breaking elongation was 19%, the dyeing levelness grade was 3, and the cylinder difference grade was 4.

[0026] Embodiment three: Dye collection and preparation: First, the madder is pretreated into 3mm particles, and then the enzymatic method and ultrasound-microwave synergistic method are used to extract the dyes in the plant. The pretreated plant particles are placed in an enzyme-containing buffer solution with a pH of 5. The enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out at a temperature of 40°C for 2 hours to form a mixed solution, and then the mixed solution is placed in a high-temperature heating environment of 95°C for 10 minutes. Then, the plant dye is extracted by the synergistic effect of ultrasonic extraction and microwave extraction. The mixed solution is placed in an ultrasonic device and ultrasonically treated for 20 minutes at an ultrasonic power of 250W. Then, the ultrasonically treated mixed solution is transferred to a microwave device and treated for 10 minutes at a microwave power of 400W. Then, the microwave-treated mixed solution is ultrasonically treated again with an ultrasonic power of 150W and an ultrasonic time of 25m. in, obtain an extract, filter the extract with filter paper, and then further purify it by centrifugation, centrifuge at a speed of 3000 rpm for 15 minutes to obtain a clear dye solution, and then dilute the dye solution with water to a corresponding concentration according to the specific material of the garment, and then place the dilution in an ultraviolet irradiation device, irradiate for 3 hours at a wavelength of 240nm and an intensity of 10 milliwatts / square centimeter, and then dissolve gelatin in water to form a wall material solution, and then disperse the plant dye solution treated with ultraviolet irradiation in the wall material solution, and form an emulsion by ultrasonic emulsification, wherein the ultrasonic power is 240W and the emulsification time is 25 minutes, and then adjust the temperature of the emulsion to 80°C and the pH value to 4, and treat for 40 minutes to form a suspension to obtain a microencapsulated modified natural plant dye.

[0027] Further, the washing grade was 5, the water resistance grade was 5, the dry rubbing fastness grade was 5, the wet rubbing fastness grade was 4, the light fastness grade was 4, the sweat light fastness grade was 4, the shrinkage rate was 3%, the breaking strength was 279N, the breaking elongation was 23%, the dyeing levelness grade was 4, and the cylinder difference grade was 4.

[0028] Embodiment 4: Dye collection and preparation: First, the madder is pretreated into 3mm particles, and then the enzymatic method and ultrasound-microwave synergistic method are used to extract the dyes in the plant. The pretreated plant particles are placed in an enzyme-containing buffer solution with a pH of 5. The enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out at a temperature of 40°C for 2 hours to form a mixed solution, and then the mixed solution is placed in a high-temperature heating environment of 95°C for 10 minutes. Then, the plant dye is extracted by the synergistic effect of ultrasonic extraction and microwave extraction. The mixed solution is placed in an ultrasonic device and ultrasonically treated for 20 minutes at an ultrasonic power of 260W. Then, the ultrasonically treated mixed solution is transferred to a microwave device and treated for 10 minutes at a microwave power of 400W. Then, the microwave-treated mixed solution is ultrasonically treated again with an ultrasonic power of 160W and an ultrasonic time of 25m. in, obtain an extract, filter the extract with filter paper, and then further purify it by centrifugation, centrifuge at a speed of 3000 rpm for 15 minutes to obtain a clear dye solution, and then dilute the dye solution with water to a corresponding concentration according to the specific material of the garment, and then place the dilution in an ultraviolet irradiation device, irradiate for 3 hours at a wavelength of 260nm and an intensity of 10 milliwatts / square centimeter, and then dissolve gelatin in water to form a wall material solution, and then disperse the plant dye solution treated with ultraviolet irradiation in the wall material solution, and form an emulsion by ultrasonic emulsification, wherein the ultrasonic power is 240W, and the emulsification time is 20 minutes, and then adjust the temperature of the emulsion to 80°C and the pH value to 4, and treat for 40 minutes to form a suspension to obtain a microencapsulated modified natural plant dye.

[0029] Further, the washing grade was measured to be 5, the water resistance grade was 5, the dry rubbing fastness grade was 4, the wet rubbing fastness grade was 4, the light fastness grade was 4, the sweat light fastness grade was 4, the shrinkage rate was 3%, the breaking strength was 267N, the breaking elongation was 21%, the dyeing levelness grade was 3, and the cylinder difference grade was 3.

[0030] Embodiment five: Dye collection and preparation: First, the madder is pretreated into 3mm particles, and then the enzymatic method and the ultrasonic-microwave synergistic method are used to extract the dye from the plant. The pretreated plant particles are placed in an enzyme-containing buffer solution with a pH of 5. The enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out at a temperature of 40°C for 2 hours to form a mixed solution, and then the mixed solution is placed in a high-temperature heating environment of 95°C for 10 minutes. Then, the plant dye is extracted by the synergistic effect of ultrasonic extraction and microwave extraction. The mixed solution is placed in an ultrasonic device and ultrasonically treated for 24 minutes at an ultrasonic power of 250W. Then, the ultrasonically treated mixed solution is transferred to a microwave device and treated for 10 minutes at a microwave power of 400W. Subsequently, the microwave-treated mixed solution is ultrasonically treated again at an ultrasonic power of 160W and an ultrasonic time of 20. min to obtain an extract, which is filtered using filter paper, and then further purified by centrifugation at a speed of 3000 rpm for 15 minutes to obtain a clear dye solution, which is then diluted with water to a corresponding concentration according to the specific material of the garment, and then the dilution is placed in an ultraviolet irradiation device and irradiated for 3 hours at a wavelength of 240 nm and an intensity of 9 mW / cm2, and then gelatin is dissolved in water to form a wall material solution, and then the plant dye solution treated with ultraviolet irradiation is dispersed in the wall material solution, and an emulsion is formed by ultrasonic emulsification, wherein the ultrasonic power is 220 W and the emulsification time is 20 minutes, and then the temperature of the emulsion is adjusted to 80°C and the pH value is 4, and the treatment is performed for 40 minutes to form a suspension to obtain a microencapsulated modified natural plant dye.

[0031] Further, the washing grade was measured to be 4, the water resistance grade was 4, the dry rubbing fastness grade was 4, the wet rubbing fastness grade was 3, the light fastness grade was 4, the sweat light fastness grade was 3, the shrinkage rate was 5%, the breaking strength was 256N, the breaking elongation was 18%, the dyeing levelness grade was 3, and the cylinder difference grade was 3.

[0032] The performance test results of the garment tie-dyeing process based on natural plant dyes are as follows:

[0033] It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the present invention is not limited to the details of the exemplary embodiments described above and that the present invention can be implemented in other specific forms without departing from the spirit or essential features of the present invention. Therefore, the embodiments should be considered exemplary and non-restrictive in all respects, and the scope of the present invention is defined by the appended claims rather than the above description, and it is intended that all changes falling within the meaning and scope of the equivalent elements of the claims be included in the present invention.

Claims

1. A garment tie-dyeing process based on natural plant dyes, characterized in that: It includes dye collection and preparation and garment pretreatment. The dye collection and preparation selects natural plants according to dyeing requirements and processes the selected natural plants to obtain dyes. The garment pretreatment pre-treats the garments to be tie-dyed. The dye collection and preparation includes plant pretreatment, dye extraction, dye filtration and purification, dye concentration adjustment and dye modification treatment. The plant pretreatment uses clean water to clean the natural plant raw materials, and then uses a grinder to grind the plant raw materials into 2-3 mm particles, wherein the rotation speed of the grinder is 500-1000rpm, and the grinding time is 10-30min. The dye extraction uses an enzymatic method and an ultrasonic-microwave collaborative method to extract the dye in the plant. The dye filtration and purification filters and purifies the extracted dye to obtain a clear dye solution. The dye concentration adjustment uses water to dilute the dye solution to obtain a dilution with a concentration of 4% to 6%. The dye modification treatment uses a combination of ultraviolet irradiation and microencapsulation to modify the dilution.

2. The process for tie-dyeing garments based on natural plant dyes according to claim 1, characterized in that: The dye modification treatment includes ultraviolet irradiation treatment and microencapsulation treatment; Ultraviolet irradiation treatment: place the diluted solution in an ultraviolet irradiation device and irradiate for 2 to 4 hours at a wavelength of 200 to 300 nm and an intensity of 8 to 10 mW / cm2; Microencapsulation treatment: first dissolve gelatin in water to form a wall material solution, then disperse the plant dye solution treated with ultraviolet light in the wall material solution, and form an emulsion by ultrasonic emulsification, wherein the ultrasonic power is 200-300W and the emulsification time is 15-25min. Then adjust the temperature of the emulsion to 60-90°C and the pH value to 4-4.5, and treat for 20-50min to form a suspension to obtain a microencapsulated modified natural plant dye.

3. The process for tie-dyeing garments based on natural plant dyes according to claim 1, characterized in that: The garment tie-dyeing process also includes tying the fabric, dyeing process, post-processing and performance testing, wherein the tying fabric uses a string and a rubber band to tie the garment, the dyeing process uses an immersion dyeing method to immerse the tied fabric in dye, the post-processing performs color fixation and optimization on the dyed garment to finally obtain a garment tie-dye product, and the performance test performs performance testing on the obtained garment tie-dye product; The dyeing process includes dye liquor preheating, tie-dyeing process and mordanting treatment. The dye liquor preheating is to add a plant ash solution into the dye liquor, the volume ratio of the dye liquor to the plant ash solution is 20 to 50 milliliters of the plant ash solution per liter of dye liquor, and the temperature of the dye liquor is adjusted to 40 to 70° C. The tie-dyeing process is to put the tied garments into a preheated dye vat for treatment for 0.5 to 4 hours, during which the garments need to be turned over. The mordanting treatment is to put the tie-dyed garments into a mordanting solution for mordanting, wherein the temperature of the mordanting solution is 40 to 60° C., and the mordanting treatment time is 0.5 to 1 hour.

4. The process for tie-dyeing garments based on natural plant dyes according to claim 3, characterized in that: The post-treatment includes cleaning, thread removal, color fixing, steam treatment and drying and ironing. The cleaning is to take out the dyed garment from the dyeing vat and rinse it with clean water. The thread removal is to remove the ropes, clips and other tools tied to the garment. The color fixing is to soak the dyed garment in 10% salt water, take out the garment and drain it after 40 to 50 minutes, and then soak it in a color fixing agent for 30 to 60 minutes. The steam treatment is to place the garment at a steam temperature of 100 to 120° C. for 20 to 30 minutes. The drying and ironing is to dry the garment and then iron it.

5. The process for tie-dyeing garments based on natural plant dyes according to claim 1, characterized in that: The garment pretreatment comprises washing, desizing treatment and pre-shrinking treatment. The washing comprises soaking the garment in 30-40°C clean water at a stirring speed of 30-50rpm for 20-50min. The desizing treatment comprises soaking the washed garment in 30-50°C warm water containing amylase, wherein the mass-volume ratio of water to amylase is 1-2g of amylase per liter of water, and stirring is performed at a speed of 30-50rpm. After soaking for 0.5-1.5h, the garment is rinsed with 30°C clean water. The pre-shrinking treatment comprises putting the washed silk garment into water for 40-50min, adding white vinegar and soaking for 10-20min, wherein the volume ratio of water to white vinegar is 10-15ml of white vinegar per liter of water. After soaking, the water is squeezed out, the garment is laid flat to dry, and then the garment is ironed at a low temperature of 100-120°C.

6. The process for tie-dyeing garments based on natural plant dyes according to claim 1, characterized in that: The dye extraction includes enzymatic hydrolysis, enzyme inactivation treatment and ultrasound-microwave; Enzymatic hydrolysis method: the pretreated plant particles are placed in a buffer solution containing enzymes, the pH of the buffer solution is 5, and the enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out at a temperature of 35°C to 45°C for 2 to 2.5 hours to form a mixed solution; Enzyme inactivation treatment: then place the mixture in a high temperature heating environment of 95°C for 5 to 10 minutes; Ultrasonic-microwave: Use the synergistic effect of ultrasonic extraction and microwave extraction to extract plant dyes and obtain extracts; The ultrasound-microwave comprises preliminary ultrasound treatment, microwave treatment and re-ultrasound treatment; Preliminary ultrasonic treatment: Then, the mixed solution is placed in an ultrasonic device and ultrasonically treated for 20 to 25 minutes at an ultrasonic power of 200 to 300 W; Microwave treatment: The mixed solution after ultrasonic treatment is then transferred to a microwave device and treated at a microwave power of 400 to 500 W for 8 to 10 minutes; Ultrasonic treatment again: The mixed solution after microwave treatment is then ultrasonically treated again, with an ultrasonic power of 100 to 200 W and an ultrasonic time of 20 to 25 min to obtain an extract.

7. The process for tie-dyeing garments based on natural plant dyes according to claim 1, characterized in that: The dye filtration and purification includes filtration separation and purification treatment; Filtration separation: Use filter paper to filter the extract to remove plant residues in the extract; Purification: Then, the dye solution is further purified by centrifugation at a speed of 3000 to 4000 rpm for 10 to 15 minutes to obtain a clarified dye solution.

8. The process for tie-dyeing garments based on natural plant dyes according to claim 3, characterized in that: The performance tests include color fastness test, dimensional stability test and color test; Color fastness test: According to the national standard GB / T3921-2008 "Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness to Washing with Soap", the washing grade is evaluated by comparing the color changes of dyed garments and adjacent fabrics. According to GB / T5713-2013 "Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness to Water", the water fastness grade is evaluated. According to GB / T3920-2008 "Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness to Rubbing", the dry rubbing fastness grade and wet rubbing fastness grade are evaluated. According to GB / T8427-2019 "Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc", the color fastness to light is evaluated. According to GB / T14576-2009 "Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness to Light and Sweat Composite Color Fastness", the color fastness to light and sweat is evaluated. Dimensional stability test: Test according to GB / T8629-2017 "Household washing and drying procedures for textile testing" to obtain shrinkage, and test according to GB / T3923.1-2013 "Tensile properties of textile fabrics - Part 1: Determination of breaking strength and elongation at break (strip method)" to obtain breaking strength and elongation at break; Color test: Use a spectrophotometer to measure the middle, upper left, upper right, lower right and lower left parts of the garment to assess the level of dyeing. Use a spectrophotometer to measure the color data of the standard sample and assess the difference in the color of the cylinder.

9. The process for tie-dyeing garments based on natural plant dyes according to claim 4, characterized in that: The fixing agent is prepared by mixing tannic acid solution, chitosan solution and plant gum solution in a mass ratio of (2-3):(2-3):1, and the mordant solution is prepared by mixing water, alum and ferrous sulfate in a mass ratio of (100-300):(1-3):(1-2).

10. The process for tie-dyeing garments based on natural plant dyes according to claim 6, characterized in that: The natural plant is one of madder, sappan wood, indigo, isatis root, ilex branches and leaves, gardenia, sophora japonica, perilla and gallnut, and the enzyme in the enzyme-containing buffer is one or more of cellulase, pectinase, protease and hemicellulase.

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