Transdermal cosmetic with whitening, transdermal and stain removing effects and preparation method thereof
By using whitening ingredients such as pearl powder extract, mulberry leaf extract, evening primrose extract in transdermal cosmetics, combined with moisturizing ingredients such as sodium hyaluronate, the existing problems of poor transdermal properties, safety and stability of spot-removing cosmetics have been solved, and efficient, safe and economical whitening effects have been achieved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202411847633.6
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-16
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-14
AI Technical Summary
Existing whitening and spot removal cosmetics have poor transdermal properties, safety and stability, and are costly, making it difficult to meet the safety, effectiveness and economic needs of consumers.
A variety of whitening ingredients such as pearl powder extract, mulberry leaf extract, evening primrose extract, phenethyl resorcinol, nicotinamide, ascorbic acid, and citronic acid are used, combined with moisturizing ingredients such as sodium hyaluronate, ceramide, lecithin, etc., and through enzymatic extraction and fermentation, transdermal cosmetics with high permeability and stability are prepared.
Significantly enhances the whitening effect, improves skin permeability and ingredient utilization, enhances skin barrier function, promotes skin repair and regeneration, and has good safety and stability, and is relatively low in cost.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular relates to a transdermal cosmetic with whitening, skin penetration and spot removal effects and a preparation method thereof. Background Art
[0002] With the improvement of people's living standards and the continuous upgrading of the pursuit of beauty, cosmetics with various functions are increasingly favored by consumers. In recent years, the cosmetics field has continuously explored and discovered active ingredients with whitening and freckle removal effects. Among them, some natural plant extracts such as arbutin, glycyrrhizic acid, vitamin C, etc., as well as some synthetic compounds such as hydroquinone derivatives, niacinamide, etc., are widely used in cosmetics. These ingredients can achieve the effects of whitening and freckle removal by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, reducing the production of melanin, and promoting the decomposition of melanin. At the same time, the application of transdermal technology can improve the bioavailability of these ingredients and enhance their efficacy. In order to achieve the transdermal absorption of active ingredients in cosmetics, various transdermal technologies continue to emerge. For example, microneedle technology promotes the penetration of active ingredients by forming tiny channels on the surface of the skin; ion introduction technology uses the effect of electric field to introduce charged active ingredients into the skin; liposome technology encapsulates active ingredients in liposomes to improve their stability and transdermal permeability. The development of these transdermal technologies provides technical support for the research and development of transdermal cosmetics.
[0003] Although transdermal cosmetics have many advantages, there are still some problems that need to be solved.
[0004] (1) Safety issues: The application of transdermal technology can easily damage the skin's barrier function and increase the risk of the skin absorbing harmful substances. For example, some transdermal enhancers can cause adverse reactions such as skin irritation and allergies; if microneedle technology is not used properly, it can cause skin infections and other problems. In addition, some whitening and freckle removal ingredients can also pose potential safety risks. For example, although hydroquinone has a strong whitening effect, long-term use can cause skin depigmentation and other problems.
[0005] (2) Stability issues: Many whitening and anti-freckle ingredients have poor stability in cosmetic formulas and are easily affected by factors such as light, heat, and oxidation, causing them to lose their activity. For example, vitamin C is easily oxidized, and arbutin is easily decomposed under acidic conditions. In addition, the application of transdermal technology can also affect the stability of active ingredients.
[0006] (3) Cost issues: The application of transdermal technology and the selection of active ingredients often increase the production cost of cosmetics. For example, microneedle technology requires special equipment and operating techniques, and liposome technology requires complex preparation processes. In addition, some highly effective whitening and anti-freckle ingredients are expensive, which will also increase the cost of cosmetics. Therefore, when developing transdermal cosmetics, it is necessary to consider cost factors and look for more cost-effective transdermal technologies and active ingredients.
[0007] Therefore, it is necessary to continuously strengthen research and development and innovation to solve these problems in order to provide consumers with safer and more effective cosmetic products. Summary of the invention
[0008] The invention aims to solve the problems of poor skin permeability, poor safety, poor stability and unclear use effect of existing whitening and spot removal cosmetics.
[0009] The invention provides a transdermal cosmetic with whitening, skin-penetrating and spot-removing effects. The cosmetic comprises the following raw materials: glycerol and phenethyl resorcinol.
[0010] Furthermore, the cosmetic comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 3 to 5 parts of glycerin and 0.2 to 0.5 parts of phenethyl resorcinol.
[0011] Furthermore, the cosmetic comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 3.5 to 4 parts of glycerin and 0.3 to 0.4 parts of phenethyl resorcinol.
[0012] Furthermore, the cosmetics include the following raw materials in parts by weight: 1 to 3 parts of pearl powder extract, 1 to 3 parts of mulberry leaf extract, 0.5 to 1.5 parts of evening primrose extract, 0.2 to 0.5 parts of phenylethyl resorcinol, 2 to 5 parts of niacinamide, 1 to 3 parts of ascorbyl glucoside, 0.5 to 1 part of tranexamic acid, 0.1 to 0.5 parts of sodium hyaluronate, 0.1 to 0.5 parts of ceramide, 1 to 3 parts of lecithin, 1 to 3 parts of arbutin, 3 to 5 parts of glycerol, 2 to 4 parts of butylene glycol, 0.1 to 0.5 parts of carbomer, 0.1 to 0.5 parts of triethanolamine, and DEDM sea salt. 0.05 to 0.1 parts of phenoxyethanol, 0.05 to 0.1 parts of essence, and 90 to 100 parts of purified water; the pearl powder extract is a product with a Da of less than 3000 obtained by sequentially enzymatic hydrolysis of white pearls bred by Hyriopsis cumingii with pepsin and nattokinase; the mulberry leaf extract is a product with a Da of less than 3000 obtained by sequentially enzymatic hydrolysis of mulberry leaves with hemicellulase, pepsin and chymotrypsin; the evening primrose extract is a product with a Da of less than 3000 obtained by co-enzymatic hydrolysis of evening primrose with hemicellulase and pectinase, and then co-fermentation with Pediococcus acidilactici and Lactobacillus lactis.
[0013] In the above-mentioned cosmetics, the preparation method of the pearl powder extract comprises the following steps: taking white pearls bred by Hyriopsis cumingii, crushing them to obtain pearl powder, adding water 8 to 12 times the mass of the pearl powder to the pearl powder, adjusting the pH to 1.5 to 2.0 with hydrochloric acid, adding pepsin, performing enzymatic hydrolysis at 36°C to 39°C for 60 to 100 minutes, heating to inactivate the enzyme, and after cooling to 40°C to 45°C, adjusting the pH to 7.5 to 8.5, adding nattokinase, performing enzymatic hydrolysis at 40°C to 45°C for 1.5 to 2 hours, heating to inactivate the enzyme, and after cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 250-mesh to 325-mesh screen to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, and taking an ultrafiltrate below 3000Da,
[0014] Freeze-drying to obtain pearl powder extract.
[0015] In the preparation method of the pearl powder extract, the amount of pepsin added is 0.3% to 0.6% of the mass of the pearl powder; the amount of nattokinase added is 0.8% to 1.2% of the mass of the pearl powder; the temperature for heating and inactivating the enzyme is 80°C to 90°C, and the time for heating and inactivating the enzyme is 15min to 20min.
[0016] In the above-mentioned cosmetics, the preparation method of the mulberry leaf extract comprises the following steps: taking fresh mulberry leaves and crushing them to obtain crushed materials, adding water 6 to 8 times the mass of the crushed materials to the crushed materials, adjusting the pH to 5.2 to 5.6, adding hemicellulase, enzymolysis at 45°C to 55°C for 1.5h to 2h, adjusting the pH to 1.5 to 2.0 with hydrochloric acid, adding pepsin, enzymolysis at 36°C to 39°C for 60min to 100min, heating to inactivate the enzyme, cooling to 36°C to 38°C, adjusting the pH to 7.5 to 8.0, adding protease, enzymolysis at 36°C to 38°C for 1h to 1.5h, heating to inactivate the enzyme, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 250-mesh to 325-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, freeze-drying, and obtaining a mulberry leaf extract.
[0017] In the preparation method of the above-mentioned mulberry leaf extract, the added amount of hemicellulase is 0.5% to 1.5% of the mass of the crushed material; the added amount of pepsin is 0.3% to 0.6% of the mass of the crushed material; the added amount of chondrostenone is 0.8% to 1.2% of the mass of the crushed material; the temperature for heating and inactivating the enzyme is 80°C to 90°C, and the time for heating and inactivating the enzyme is 15min to 20min.
[0018] In the above-mentioned cosmetics, the preparation method of the evening primrose extract comprises the following steps: taking the whole evening primrose plant and crushing it to obtain a crushed material, adding water 8 times to 10 times the mass of the crushed material to the crushed material, adjusting the pH to 5.0-5.5, adding hemicellulase and pectinase, enzymolysis at 45°C to 55°C for 2h to 3h, heating to inactivate the enzyme, cooling to 30°C to 40°C to obtain an enzymolysis solution, then adding glucose and peptone, adjusting the pH to 5.5-6.2, adding Pediococcus acidilactici and Lactobacillus lactis, fermenting anaerobically at 30°C to 40°C for 20h to 25h, adding anhydrous ethanol, soaking for 1h to 2h, high temperature sterilization, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 250-mesh to 325-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, freeze-drying, and obtaining an evening primrose extract.
[0019] In the above-mentioned preparation method of evening primrose extract, the amount of hemicellulase added is 0.8% to 2% of the amount of the crushed material; the amount of pectinase added is 1% to 2% of the amount of the crushed material;
[0020] In the preparation method of the evening primrose extract, the amount of glucose added is 1% to 2.5% of the mass of the enzymatic hydrolysate; the amount of peptone added is 0.5% to 1.5% of the mass of the enzymatic hydrolysate; the amount of Pediococcus acidilactici added is 1% to 3% of the mass of the crushed material; and the amount of Lactobacillus lactis added is 1% to 3% of the mass of the crushed material.
[0021] In the above-mentioned preparation method of evening primrose extract, the temperature for heating and inactivating the enzyme is 80℃~90℃, and the time for heating and inactivating the enzyme is 15min~20min; the amount of anhydrous ethanol added is 0.5 times~2 times the amount of the crushed material; the temperature for high-temperature sterilization is 121℃~125℃, and the time for high-temperature sterilization is 15min~25min.
[0022] The preparation method of the above-mentioned transdermal cosmetics with whitening, skin penetration and spot removal effects comprises the following steps:
[0023] According to the mass ratio, the purified water is heated to 75°C-85°C, carbomer is added to dissolve, and then triethanolamine, DEDM hydantoin and phenoxyethanol are added and mixed evenly, and then the temperature is lowered to 50°C-55°C, phenylethyl resorcinol, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, sodium hyaluronate, ceramide, lecithin, arbutin, glycerin and butylene glycol are added and mixed evenly, and then the temperature is lowered to 37°C-42°C, ascorbyl glucoside, pearl powder extract, mulberry leaf extract, evening primrose extract and essence are added and mixed evenly to obtain cosmetics.
[0024] The present invention provides transdermal cosmetics with whitening, transdermal and stain removal effects and a preparation method thereof. The multiple whitening ingredients such as pearl powder extract, mulberry leaf extract, evening primrose extract, phenylethyl resorcinol, nicotinamide, ascorbyl glucoside, tranexamic acid, arbutin, etc. are used to act together, and the generation and transfer of melanin can be inhibited from different links, thereby significantly enhancing the whitening effect, and the skin permeability is good, and the ingredient utilization rate is high. The moisturizing ingredients such as sodium hyaluronate, ceramide, lecithin, glycerol, butylene glycol are used to synergize with the ingredients with repairing effects such as pearl powder extract, mulberry leaf extract, evening primrose extract, etc., and the barrier function of the skin can be enhanced while maintaining the moisture of the skin, and the repair and regeneration of the skin can be promoted. Antioxidant ingredients such as ascorbyl glucoside are used to synergize with whitening ingredients, and free radicals can be removed, oxidative damage can be reduced, thereby enhancing the whitening effect.
[0025] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:
[0026] 1. The pearl powder extract of the present invention is a product of less than 3000Da obtained by enzymolysis of white pearls bred by Hyriopsis cumingii with pepsin and nattokinase step by step, and has better whitening effect. The product of less than 3000Da obtained by enzymolysis of pepsin and nattokinase step by step contains various active peptides and amino acids. These ingredients can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and reduce the generation of melanin, thereby achieving a whitening effect. At the same time, it can also promote skin metabolism, enhance skin elasticity and the like.
[0027] Second, the mulberry leaf extract of the present invention is a product of less than 3000Da obtained by enzymolysis of mulberry leaves by hemicellulase, pepsin and thrombin, which is helpful for whitening and removing spots. The product of less than 3000Da obtained by enzymolysis of hemicellulase, pepsin and thrombin contains a variety of bioactive ingredients, such as small molecule peptides, flavonoids, alkaloids, etc. These ingredients can reduce the production of melanin by inhibiting key enzymes in the process of melanin generation, such as tyrosinase and dopachrome interconvertase, etc. In addition, it can also have an antioxidant effect, remove free radicals, and reduce the formation of spots.
[0028] 3. The evening primrose extract of the present invention is a product of 3000Da or less obtained by co-fermentation of Pediococcus acidilactici and Lactobacillus lactis after co-enzymolysis of evening primrose by hemicellulase and pectinase, which can nourish, repair and whiten the skin and help improve the skin color. After co-enzymolysis of hemicellulase and pectinase, the product of 3000Da or less obtained by co-fermentation of Pediococcus acidilactici and Lactobacillus lactis contains a variety of beneficial ingredients, such as small molecule peptides, unsaturated fatty acids, vitamins, etc. These ingredients can regulate the oil secretion of the skin, enhance the barrier function of the skin, promote the regeneration and repair of skin cells, whiten and brighten the skin. In addition, the evening primrose extract also has a penetration-promoting effect, which improves the utilization rate of cosmetic ingredients.
[0029] 4. Phenylethyl resorcinol has whitening effect, can effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, and prevent the formation of melanin. Its mechanism of action is mainly through binding with the active site of tyrosinase, competitively inhibiting the conversion of tyrosine to DOPA, thereby reducing the synthesis of melanin.
[0030] 5. Niacinamide has whitening, oil control, and skin barrier improvement functions. It can inhibit the transfer of melanin from melanocytes to keratinocytes, thereby reducing pigmentation. At the same time, it can also promote skin metabolism, enhance the skin's moisturizing ability, and improve the skin's barrier function.
[0031] 6. Ascorbyl glucoside can be converted into vitamin C in the skin. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and reduce the formation of melanin. At the same time, it can also remove free radicals and protect the skin from oxidative damage.
[0032] 7. Tranexamic acid reduces the production of melanin by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase and melanocytes. At the same time, it also has anti-inflammatory effects, which can reduce the inflammatory response of the pigmentation area and promote the disappearance of pigmentation.
[0033] 8. Sodium hyaluronate has strong water absorption and can form a moisturizing film on the skin surface to lock in moisture and maintain the moisture of the skin. At the same time, it can also promote the proliferation and differentiation of skin cells and enhance the elasticity of the skin.
[0034] 9. Ceramide is an important component of the stratum corneum of the skin, which can enhance the barrier function of the skin, prevent water loss and the invasion of harmful substances from the outside world. At the same time, it can also regulate the cell metabolism of the skin and promote the repair and regeneration of the skin.
[0035] 10. Lecithin has good hydrophilicity and lipophilicity, and can form a protective film on the skin surface to prevent water loss; at the same time, it can also promote the skin's absorption of other nutrients. Arbutin inhibits the activity of tyrosinase and reduces the production of melanin. Its mechanism of action is similar to that of phenylethyl resorcinol, but relatively mild. Glycerin and butylene glycol have strong water absorption and can form a moisturizing film on the skin surface to lock in moisture and maintain the moisture of the skin. Carbomer forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules to increase the viscosity of the system, so that the cosmetics have good stability and spreadability. Triethanolamine can neutralize the acidic components in cosmetics, adjust the pH value of the system to keep it within an appropriate range, and ensure the stability and safety of cosmetics. DED M hydan has moisturizing and antibacterial effects, and can form a moisturizing film on the skin surface to lock in moisture. At the same time, it also has a certain antibacterial effect, which can prevent cosmetics from being contaminated by bacteria. Phenoxyethanol is used to inhibit the growth and reproduction of microorganisms such as bacteria and fungi, and extend the shelf life of cosmetics.
[0036] XI. The pearl powder extract, mulberry leaf extract, evening primrose extract, phenylethyl resorcinol, niacinamide, ascorbyl glucoside, tranexamic acid, arbutin and other whitening ingredients of the present invention work together to inhibit the generation and transfer of melanin from different links, thereby significantly enhancing the whitening effect, and the skin permeability is good and the ingredient utilization rate is high. Moisturizing ingredients such as sodium hyaluronate, ceramide, lecithin, glycerol, butylene glycol and other moisturizing ingredients synergistically work with pearl powder extract, mulberry leaf extract, evening primrose extract and other ingredients with repairing effects, which can enhance the barrier function of the skin while maintaining the moisture of the skin, and promote the repair and regeneration of the skin. Antioxidant ingredients such as ascorbyl glucoside work synergistically with whitening ingredients to scavenge free radicals and reduce oxidative damage, thereby enhancing the whitening effect. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0037] The present invention is further described below in conjunction with specific implementation cases, but the present invention is not limited to these embodiments.
[0038] Example 1
[0039] A transdermal cosmetic with whitening, skin-penetrating and spot-removing effects, the cosmetic comprising the following raw materials in parts by mass: 2 parts of pearl powder extract, 2 parts of mulberry leaf extract, 1 part of evening primrose extract, 0.3 parts of phenylethyl resorcinol, 3 parts of niacinamide, 2 parts of ascorbyl glucoside, 0.8 parts of tranexamic acid, 0.3 parts of sodium hyaluronate, 0.3 parts of ceramide, 2 parts of lecithin, 2 parts of arbutin, 4 parts of glycerol, 3 parts of butylene glycol, 0.3 parts of carbomer, 0.3 parts of triethanolamine, 0.08 parts of DEDM hydantoin, 0.06 parts of phenoxyethanol, 1 part of essence and 95 parts of purified water.
[0040] The preparation method of pearl powder extract comprises the following steps: taking white pearls bred by Hyriopsis cumingii, crushing them to obtain pearl powder, adding water 10 times the mass of pearl powder to the pearl powder, adjusting the pH to 1.8 with hydrochloric acid, adding pepsin 0.5% by mass of pearl powder, performing enzymolysis at 37°C for 80 minutes, heating to 85°C to inactivate the enzyme for 18 minutes, cooling to 42°C, adjusting the pH to 8.0, adding nattokinase 1.0% by mass of pearl powder, performing enzymolysis at 42°C for 1.5 hours, heating to 85°C to inactivate the enzyme for 18 minutes, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 325-mesh screen to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, and freeze-drying to obtain the pearl powder extract.
[0041] The preparation method of mulberry leaf extract comprises the following steps: taking fresh mulberry leaves and crushing them to obtain crushed materials, adding 7 times the mass of water to the crushed materials, adjusting the pH to 5.4, adding 1.0% of hemicellulase by mass of the crushed materials, performing enzymolysis at 50°C for 1.5 hours, adjusting the pH to 1.8 with hydrochloric acid, adding 0.5% of pepsin by mass of the crushed materials, performing enzymolysis at 37°C for 80 minutes, heating to 85°C to inactivate the enzyme for 18 minutes, cooling to 37°C, adjusting the pH to 7.8, adding 1.0% of protease by mass of the crushed materials, performing enzymolysis at 37°C for 1 hour, heating to 85°C to inactivate the enzyme for 18 minutes, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 325-mesh screen to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, and freeze-drying to obtain a mulberry leaf extract.
[0042] The preparation method of evening primrose extract comprises the following steps: taking the whole evening primrose plant and crushing it to obtain a crushed material, adding 9 times the mass of water to the crushed material, adjusting the pH to 5.2, adding 1.2% of hemicellulase and 1.5% of pectinase by mass of the crushed material, enzymolysis at 50°C for 2.5h, heating to 85°C to inactivate the enzyme for 18min, cooling to 35°C to obtain an enzymolysis solution, then adding 1.8% of glucose by mass of the enzymolysis solution and 1.2% of peptone by mass of the enzymolysis solution, adjusting the pH to 6.0, adding 2% of Pediococcus acidilactici and 2% of Lactobacillus lactis by mass of the crushed material, fermenting anaerobically at 35°C for 24h, adding anhydrous ethanol, soaking for 1.5h, high-temperature sterilization at 121°C for 20min, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 325-mesh screen to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, freeze-drying, and obtaining an evening primrose extract.
[0043] The preparation method of the above-mentioned transdermal cosmetics with whitening, skin penetration and spot removal effects comprises the following steps:
[0044] According to the mass ratio, the purified water is heated to 80°C, carbomer is added to dissolve, and then triethanolamine, DEDM hydantoin and phenoxyethanol are added and mixed evenly, then the temperature is lowered to 52°C, phenylethyl resorcinol, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, sodium hyaluronate, ceramide, lecithin, arbutin, glycerin and butylene glycol are added and mixed evenly, then the temperature is lowered to 40°C, ascorbyl glucoside, pearl powder extract, mulberry leaf extract, evening primrose extract and essence are added and mixed evenly to obtain cosmetics.
[0045] Example 2
[0046] A transdermal cosmetic with whitening, skin-penetrating and spot-removing effects, the cosmetic comprising the following raw materials in parts by mass: 1 part of pearl powder extract, 1 part of mulberry leaf extract, 0.5 part of evening primrose extract, 0.2 part of phenylethyl resorcinol, 2 parts of niacinamide, 1 part of ascorbyl glucoside, 0.5 part of tranexamic acid, 0.1 part of sodium hyaluronate, 0.1 part of ceramide, 1 part of lecithin, 1 part of arbutin, 3 parts of glycerol, 2 parts of butylene glycol, 0.1 part of carbomer, 0.1 part of triethanolamine, 0.05 part of DEDM hydantoin, 0.05 part of phenoxyethanol, 0.05 part of essence and 90 parts of purified water.
[0047] The preparation method of pearl powder extract comprises the following steps: taking white pearls bred by Hyriopsis cumingii, crushing them to obtain pearl powder, adding water 8 times the mass of pearl powder to the pearl powder, adjusting the pH to 1.5 with hydrochloric acid, adding pepsin 0.3% by mass of pearl powder, performing enzymolysis at 36°C for 60 minutes, heating to 80°C to inactivate the enzyme for 15 minutes, cooling to 40°C, adjusting the pH to 7.5, adding nattokinase 0.8% by mass of pearl powder, performing enzymolysis at 40°C for 1.5 hours, heating to 80°C to inactivate the enzyme for 15 minutes, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 250-mesh screen to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, and freeze-drying to obtain the pearl powder extract.
[0048] The preparation method of mulberry leaf extract includes the following steps: taking fresh mulberry leaves and crushing them to obtain crushed materials, adding 6 times the mass of water to the crushed materials, adjusting the pH to 5.2, adding 0.5% of hemicellulase by mass of the crushed materials, enzymolysis at 45°C for 1.5 hours, adjusting the pH to 1.5 with hydrochloric acid, adding 0.3% of pepsin by mass of the crushed materials, enzymolysis at 36°C for 60 minutes, heating to 80°C to inactivate the enzyme for 15 minutes, cooling to 36°C, adjusting the pH to 7.5, adding 0.8% of the mass of trypsin by mass of the crushed materials, enzymolysis at 36°C for 1 hour, heating to 80°C to inactivate the enzyme for 15 minutes, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 250-mesh screen to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, freeze-drying, and obtaining mulberry leaf extract.
[0049] The preparation method of evening primrose extract comprises the following steps: taking the whole evening primrose plant and crushing it to obtain a crushed material, adding 8 times the mass of water to the crushed material, adjusting the pH to 5.0, adding 0.8% of hemicellulase by mass of the crushed material and 1% of pectinase by mass of the crushed material, enzymolysis at 45°C for 2h, heating to 80°C to inactivate the enzyme for 15min, cooling to 30°C to obtain an enzymolysis solution, then adding 1% of glucose by mass of the enzymolysis solution and 0.5% of peptone by mass of the enzymolysis solution, adjusting the pH to 5.5, adding 1% of Pediococcus acidilactici by mass of the crushed material and 1% of Lactobacillus lactis by mass of the crushed material, fermenting anaerobically at 30°C for 20h, adding anhydrous ethanol, soaking for 1h, high-temperature sterilization at 121°C for 15min, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 250-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, freeze-drying, and obtaining an evening primrose extract.
[0050] The preparation method of the above-mentioned transdermal cosmetics with whitening, skin penetration and spot removal effects comprises the following steps:
[0051] According to the mass ratio, the purified water is heated to 75°C, carbomer is added to dissolve, and then triethanolamine, DEDM hydantoin and phenoxyethanol are added and mixed evenly, then the temperature is lowered to 50°C, phenylethyl resorcinol, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, sodium hyaluronate, ceramide, lecithin, arbutin, glycerin and butylene glycol are added and mixed evenly, then the temperature is lowered to 37°C, ascorbyl glucoside, pearl powder extract, mulberry leaf extract, evening primrose extract and essence are added and mixed evenly to obtain cosmetics.
[0052] Example 3
[0053] A transdermal cosmetic with whitening, skin-penetrating and spot-removing effects, the cosmetic comprising the following raw materials in parts by mass: 1 part of pearl powder extract, 3 parts of mulberry leaf extract, 0.5 part of evening primrose extract, 0.5 part of phenylethyl resorcinol, 2 parts of niacinamide, 3 parts of ascorbyl glucoside, 0.5 part of tranexamic acid, 0.5 part of sodium hyaluronate, 0.1 part of ceramide, 3 parts of lecithin, 1 part of arbutin, 5 parts of glycerol, 2 parts of butylene glycol, 0.5 part of carbomer, 0.1 part of triethanolamine, 0.1 part of DEDM hydantoin, 0.05 part of phenoxyethanol, 2 parts of essence and 90 parts of purified water.
[0054] The preparation method of the pearl powder extract comprises the following steps: taking white pearls bred by the cuming oyster, crushing them to obtain pearl powder, adding water 12 times the mass of the pearl powder to the pearl powder, adjusting the pH to 1.5 with hydrochloric acid, adding pepsin 0.6% by mass of the pearl powder, performing enzymolysis at 36°C for 100 minutes, heating to 80°C to inactivate the enzyme for 20 minutes, cooling to 40°C, adjusting the pH to 8.5, adding nattokinase 0.8% by mass of the pearl powder, performing enzymolysis at 45°C for 1.5 hours, heating to 90°C to inactivate the enzyme for 15 minutes, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 325-mesh screen to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, and freeze-drying to obtain the pearl powder extract.
[0055] The preparation method of mulberry leaf extract includes the following steps: taking fresh mulberry leaves and crushing them to obtain crushed materials, adding 6 times the weight of water to the crushed materials, adjusting the pH to 5.6, adding 0.5% of hemicellulase by weight of the crushed materials, enzymolysis at 55°C for 1.5 hours, adjusting the pH to 2.0 with hydrochloric acid, adding 0.3% of pepsin by weight of the crushed materials, enzymolysis at 39°C for 60 minutes, heating to 90°C to inactivate the enzyme for 15 minutes, cooling to 38°C, adjusting the pH to 7.5, adding 1.2% of protease by weight of the crushed materials, enzymolysis at 36°C for 1.5 hours, heating to 80°C to inactivate the enzyme for 20 minutes, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 250-mesh screen to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, freeze-drying, and obtaining mulberry leaf extract.
[0056] The preparation method of evening primrose extract comprises the following steps: taking the whole evening primrose plant and crushing it to obtain a crushed material, adding 10 times the mass of water to the crushed material, adjusting the pH to 5.0, adding 2% of hemicellulase by mass of the crushed material and 1% of pectinase by mass of the crushed material, enzymolysis at 55°C for 2h, heating to 90°C to inactivate the enzyme for 15min, cooling to 40°C to obtain an enzymolysis solution, then adding 1% of glucose by mass of the enzymolysis solution and 1.5% of peptone by mass of the enzymolysis solution, adjusting the pH to 5.5, adding 3% of Pediococcus acidilactici by mass of the crushed material and 1% of Lactobacillus lactis by mass of the crushed material, fermenting anaerobically at 40°C for 20h, adding anhydrous ethanol, soaking for 2h, high-temperature sterilization at 121°C for 25min, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 250-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, freeze-drying, and obtaining an evening primrose extract.
[0057] The preparation method of the above-mentioned transdermal cosmetics with whitening, skin penetration and spot removal effects comprises the following steps:
[0058] According to the mass ratio, the purified water is heated to 85°C, carbomer is added to dissolve, and then triethanolamine, DEDM hydantoin and phenoxyethanol are added and mixed evenly, then the temperature is lowered to 50°C, phenylethyl resorcinol, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, sodium hyaluronate, ceramide, lecithin, arbutin, glycerin and butylene glycol are added and mixed evenly, then the temperature is lowered to 42°C, ascorbyl glucoside, pearl powder extract, mulberry leaf extract, evening primrose extract and essence are added and mixed evenly to obtain cosmetics.
[0059] Example 4
[0060] A transdermal cosmetic with whitening, skin-penetrating and spot-removing effects, the cosmetic comprising the following raw materials in parts by mass: 3 parts of pearl powder extract, 3 parts of mulberry leaf extract, 1.5 parts of evening primrose extract, 0.5 parts of phenylethyl resorcinol, 5 parts of niacinamide, 3 parts of ascorbyl glucoside, 1 part of tranexamic acid, 0.5 parts of sodium hyaluronate, 0.5 parts of ceramide, 3 parts of lecithin, 3 parts of arbutin, 5 parts of glycerin, 4 parts of butylene glycol, 0.5 parts of carbomer, 0.5 parts of triethanolamine, 0.1 parts of DEDM hydantoin, 0.1 parts of phenoxyethanol, 2 parts of essence and 100 parts of purified water.
[0061] The preparation method of the pearl powder extract comprises the following steps: taking white pearls bred by the cuming oyster, crushing them to obtain pearl powder, adding water 12 times the mass of the pearl powder to the pearl powder, adjusting the pH to 2.0 with hydrochloric acid, adding pepsin 0.6% by mass of the pearl powder, performing enzymolysis at 39°C for 100 minutes, heating to 90°C to inactivate the enzyme for 20 minutes, cooling to 45°C, adjusting the pH to 8.5, adding nattokinase 1.2% by mass of the pearl powder, performing enzymolysis at 45°C for 2 hours, heating to 90°C to inactivate the enzyme for 20 minutes, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 325-mesh screen to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, and freeze-drying to obtain the pearl powder extract.
[0062] The preparation method of mulberry leaf extract comprises the following steps: taking fresh mulberry leaves and crushing them to obtain crushed materials, adding 8 times the mass of water to the crushed materials, adjusting the pH to 5.6, adding 1.5% of hemicellulase by mass of the crushed materials, enzymolysis at 55°C for 2 hours, adjusting the pH to 2.0 with hydrochloric acid, adding 0.6% of pepsin by mass of the crushed materials, enzymolysis at 39°C for 100 minutes, heating to 90°C to inactivate the enzyme for 20 minutes, cooling to 38°C, adjusting the pH to 8.0, adding 1.2% of protease by mass of the crushed materials, enzymolysis at 38°C for 1.5 hours, heating to 90°C to inactivate the enzyme for 20 minutes, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 325-mesh screen to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, freeze-drying, and obtaining mulberry leaf extract.
[0063] The preparation method of evening primrose extract comprises the following steps: taking the whole evening primrose plant and crushing it to obtain a crushed material, adding 10 times the mass of water to the crushed material, adjusting the pH to 5.5, adding 2% of the mass of hemicellulase and 2% of the mass of pectinase, enzymolyzing at 55°C for 3h, heating to 90°C to inactivate the enzyme for 20min, cooling to 40°C to obtain an enzymolysis solution, then adding 2.5% of the mass of glucose and 1.5% of the mass of peptone to adjust the pH to 6.2, adding 3% of the mass of Pediococcus acidilactici and 3% of the mass of Lactobacillus lactis, fermenting anaerobically at 40°C for 25h, adding anhydrous ethanol, soaking for 2h, high-temperature sterilization at 125°C for 25min, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 325-mesh screen to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, freeze-drying, and obtaining an evening primrose extract.
[0064] The preparation method of the above-mentioned transdermal cosmetics with whitening, skin penetration and spot removal effects comprises the following steps:
[0065] According to the mass ratio, the purified water is heated to 85°C, carbomer is added to dissolve, and then triethanolamine, DEDM hydantoin and phenoxyethanol are added and mixed evenly, then the temperature is lowered to 55°C, phenylethyl resorcinol, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, sodium hyaluronate, ceramide, lecithin, arbutin, glycerin and butylene glycol are added and mixed evenly, then the temperature is lowered to 42°C, ascorbyl glucoside, pearl powder extract, mulberry leaf extract, evening primrose extract and essence are added and mixed evenly to obtain cosmetics.
[0066] Example 5
[0067] A transdermal cosmetic with whitening, skin-penetrating and spot-removing effects, the cosmetic comprising the following raw materials in parts by mass: 3 parts of pearl powder extract, 1 part of mulberry leaf extract, 1.5 parts of evening primrose extract, 0.2 parts of phenylethyl resorcinol, 5 parts of niacinamide, 1 part of ascorbyl glucoside, 1 part of tranexamic acid, 0.1 part of sodium hyaluronate, 0.5 parts of ceramide, 1 part of lecithin, 3 parts of arbutin, 3 parts of glycerol, 4 parts of butylene glycol, 0.1 part of carbomer, 0.5 parts of triethanolamine, 0.05 parts of DEDM hydantoin, 0.1 part of phenoxyethanol, 0.05 parts of essence and 100 parts of purified water.
[0068] The preparation method of pearl powder extract comprises the following steps: taking white pearls bred by Hyriopsis cumingii, crushing them to obtain pearl powder, adding water 8 times the mass of pearl powder to the pearl powder, adjusting the pH to 2.0 with hydrochloric acid, adding pepsin 0.3% by mass of pearl powder, performing enzymolysis at 39°C for 60 minutes, heating to 90°C to inactivate the enzyme for 15 minutes, cooling to 45°C, adjusting the pH to 7.5, adding nattokinase 1.2% by mass of pearl powder, performing enzymolysis at 40°C for 2 hours, heating to 80°C to inactivate the enzyme for 20 minutes, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 250-mesh screen to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, and freeze-drying to obtain the pearl powder extract.
[0069] The preparation method of mulberry leaf extract comprises the following steps: taking fresh mulberry leaves and crushing them to obtain crushed materials, adding 8 times the weight of water to the crushed materials, adjusting the pH to 5.2, adding 1.5% of hemicellulase by weight of the crushed materials, performing enzymolysis at 45°C for 2 hours, adjusting the pH to 1.5 with hydrochloric acid, adding 0.6% of pepsin by weight of the crushed materials, performing enzymolysis at 36°C for 100 minutes, heating to 80°C to inactivate the enzyme for 20 minutes, cooling to 36°C, adjusting the pH to 8.0, adding 0.8% of protease by weight of the crushed materials, performing enzymolysis at 38°C for 1 hour, heating to 90°C to inactivate the enzyme for 15 minutes, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 325-mesh screen to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, and freeze-drying to obtain a mulberry leaf extract.
[0070] The preparation method of evening primrose extract comprises the following steps: taking the whole evening primrose plant and crushing it to obtain a crushed material, adding 8 times the mass of water to the crushed material, adjusting the pH to 5.5, adding 0.8% of hemicellulase by mass of the crushed material and 2% of pectinase by mass of the crushed material, enzymolysis at 45°C for 3h, heating to 80°C to inactivate the enzyme for 20min, cooling to 30°C to obtain an enzymolysis solution, then adding 2.5% of glucose by mass of the enzymolysis solution and 0.5% of peptone by mass of the enzymolysis solution, adjusting the pH to 6.2, adding 1% of Pediococcus acidilactici by mass of the crushed material and 3% of Lactobacillus lactis by mass of the crushed material, fermenting anaerobically at 30°C for 25h, adding anhydrous ethanol, soaking for 1h, high-temperature sterilization at 125°C for 15min, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 325-mesh screen to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, freeze-drying, and obtaining an evening primrose extract.
[0071] The preparation method of the above-mentioned transdermal cosmetics with whitening, skin penetration and spot removal effects comprises the following steps:
[0072] According to the mass ratio, the purified water is heated to 75°C, carbomer is added to dissolve, and then triethanolamine, DEDM hydantoin and phenoxyethanol are added and mixed evenly, then the temperature is lowered to 55°C, phenylethyl resorcinol, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, sodium hyaluronate, ceramide, lecithin, arbutin, glycerin and butylene glycol are added and mixed evenly, then the temperature is lowered to 37°C, ascorbyl glucoside, pearl powder extract, mulberry leaf extract, evening primrose extract and essence are added and mixed evenly to obtain cosmetics.
[0073] The enzymatic activity of pepsin used in the above embodiments is 10,000 U / g; the enzymatic activity of nattokinase is 10,000 U / g; the enzymatic activity of hemicellulase is 100,000 U / g; the enzymatic activity of chymotrypsin is 500,000 U / g, which is derived from pigs; the enzymatic activity of pectinase is 100,000 U / g; the bacterial activity of Pediococcus acidilactici is 10 billion CFU / g; the bacterial activity of Lactobacillus lactis is 10 billion CFU / g. Sodium hyaluronate: Hybloom sodium hyaluronate (HA-T), Huaxi Biology. Ceramide: Ceramide II. Lecithin: soybean lecithin. Butanediol: 1,3-Butanediol. Carbomer: Carbomer-941.
[0074] Comparative Example 1
[0075] The pearl powder extract in the cosmetics is directly replaced by the pearl powder obtained by crushing the white pearls produced by the cuming oyster (without enzymatic extraction). Other parameters and methods are the same as those in Example 1.
[0076] Comparative Example 2
[0077] In the preparation method of pearl powder extract, the pearl powder is not subjected to nattokinase enzymolysis. Other parameters and methods are the same as those in Example 1.
[0078] Comparative Example 3
[0079] The mulberry leaf extract is an ethanol percolation extract (the mulberry leaves are crushed and percolated with ethanol to obtain a percolation solution, which is concentrated and dried to obtain a mulberry leaf extract). Other parameters and methods are the same as in Example 1.
[0080] Comparative Example 4
[0081] In the preparation method of mulberry leaf extract, mulberry leaves are not subjected to protease hydrolysis. Other parameters and methods are the same as those in Example 1.
[0082] Comparative Example 5
[0083] The evening primrose extract is an ethanol percolation extract (evening primrose is crushed and percolated with ethanol to obtain a percolation liquid, which is concentrated and dried to obtain an evening primrose extract). Other parameters and methods are the same as in Example 1.
[0084] Comparative Example 6
[0085] In the preparation method of evening primrose extract, no fermentation with Pediococcus acidilactici and Lactobacillus lactis is used, that is, the enzymatic solution is directly added to anhydrous ethanol for soaking, filtration, and ultrafiltration to obtain evening primrose extract. Other parameters and methods are the same as those in Example 1.
[0086] Comparative Example 7
[0087] No pearl powder extract, mulberry leaf extract and evening primrose extract are added to the cosmetics, and the mass fractions of pearl powder extract, mulberry leaf extract and evening primrose extract are replaced by purified water. Other parameters and methods are the same as in Example 1.
[0088] The cosmetics prepared in the above-mentioned embodiments and comparative examples were tested.
[0089] 1. Safety Test
[0090] Safety tests were performed on the transdermal cosmetics prepared in each embodiment and each comparative example:
[0091] 120 subjects without skin or systemic diseases were selected and randomly divided into 12 groups (10 subjects in each group) for human skin closed patch test. 0.1g of transdermal cosmetic samples were placed in the patch test chamber, and the cleaned skin on the inside of the subject's arm without rash was selected. The patch tester was attached to the inside of the arm, and then the patch tester was fixed with breathable low-allergenic tape to prevent it from falling off. After 24 hours of the test, the patch tester was gently torn off, marked with a marker, and left to sit for 30 minutes. The skin reaction was observed and the skin condition was recorded 30 minutes (after the indentation disappeared), 24 hours and 48 hours after the removal of the test article patch tester.
[0092] The results showed that none of the subjects experienced any adverse reactions such as allergies, redness, swelling, or itching on their skin, and the ingredients were safe.
[0093] 2. Whitening performance test
[0094] The transdermal cosmetics of Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 were tested for DPPH free radical scavenging ability and tyrosinase activity inhibition test using the "Cosmetics - Free Radical (DPPH) Scavenging Test Method" and the "Cosmetics - Tyrosinase Activity Inhibition Test Method", respectively. The higher the DPPH free radical scavenging rate and tyrosinase inhibition rate of the product, the better the whitening and freckle removal effect. The results are shown in Table 1 below.
[0095] Table 1 DPPH free radical scavenging detection and tyrosinase activity inhibition results
[0096]
[0097]
[0098] From the above results, it can be seen that the scavenging rate of DPPH free radicals in Examples 1 to 5 can reach more than 82%, and the inhibition rate of tyrosinase can reach more than 85%. Pearl powder, mulberry leaves and evening primrose extracts can significantly improve the scavenging of DPPH free radicals and the inhibition of tyrosinase, and can play a role in whitening and removing spots. From Comparative Examples 1 to 2, it can be seen that if pearl powder is not extracted or nattokinase is not enzymatically hydrolyzed during the extraction process, the DPPH free radical scavenging ability and tyrosinase inhibition effect will be weakened. From Comparative Examples 3 to 4, it can be seen that using mulberry leaves that have been percolated with ethanol or not using coagulation during the extraction process The results of comparative examples 5 and 6 show that the DPPH free radical scavenging ability and tyrosinase inhibition effect are weakened by trypsin enzymolysis. Comparative examples 5 and 6 show that the use of evening primrose filtered by ethanol or the use of Pediococcus acidilactici and Lactobacillus lactis fermentation in the extraction process can weaken the DPPH free radical scavenging ability and tyrosinase inhibition effect. Comparative example 7 shows that the DPPH free radical scavenging ability and tyrosinase inhibition effect are significantly weakened by not adding pearl powder, mulberry leaves and evening primrose extracts. The DPPH free radical scavenging rate is only 52.75%, the tyrosinase inhibition rate is only 56.18%, and the whitening and freckle removal ability is greatly reduced.
[0099] 3. Skin permeability test
[0100] The evening primrose extract of Example 1 was taken alone to conduct a penetration test:
[0101] Mix tranexamic acid and evening primrose extract with water, wherein the mass concentration of tranexamic acid is 2% and the mass concentration of evening primrose extract is 0.1%, to prepare a test sample;
[0102] Take tranexamic acid and water and mix them, the mass concentration of tranexamic acid is 2%, and prepare a blank sample;
[0103] Take 20 mice after shaving, 10 mice in each group, respectively, test group and blank group, the test group was smeared with the test sample 1cm 2 , blank group smear blank sample 1cm 2 ; After 20 minutes, the skin was taken to detect the Tranexamic acid The average values of the test results are shown in Table 2 below.
[0104] Table 2 Permeability test results
[0105]
[0106]
[0107] From the test results in Table 2, it can be seen that the evening primrose extract has an effective skin penetration enhancing effect.
[0108] 4. Spot removal effect detection
[0109] The transdermal cosmetics prepared in Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 were tested for their freckle removal effects:
[0110] 120 female subjects (23-45 years old) were selected and randomly divided into 12 groups (10 people in each group). After cleaning the face in the morning and evening, appropriate amounts of products (each group used transdermal cosmetics containing each embodiment and each comparative example) were gently applied to the face. No cosmetics, drugs and health products that affect the results were used during the experiment. During the period, the laboratory was followed up 5 times, and clinical tests were performed using instruments before use (0 week), 1 week, 4 weeks, 8 weeks and 12 weeks after the product was used. The freckle removal effect of the product was evaluated according to the reduction rate of melanin content, melanin reduction rate = (0 week melanin content - nth week melanin content after use) / 0 week melanin content, and the test calculation results are shown in Table 3 below.
[0111] Table 3 Human freckle removal effect test results (average value of 10 people)
[0112]
[0113]
[0114] From the above results, it can be seen that the transdermal cosmetic products of Examples 1 to 5 can significantly reduce the melanin content of the skin. After 12 weeks, the melanin reduction rate can reach more than 36%, and the whitening and freckle removal effect is obvious, which can achieve a freckle effect in a short period of time; from Comparative Examples 1 to 2, it can be seen that the skin melanin reduction rate can be reduced if the pearl powder is not extracted or the nattokinase is not enzymatically hydrolyzed during the extraction process; from Comparative Examples 3 to 4, it can be seen that the use of ethanol-permeated mulberry leaves or the use of rennet enzyme hydrolysis during the extraction process can reduce the skin melanin reduction rate; from Comparative Examples 5 to 6, it can be seen that the use of ethanol-permeated evening primrose or the use of Pediococcus acidilactici and Lactobacillus lactis fermentation during the extraction process can reduce the skin melanin reduction rate; from Comparative Example 7, it can be seen that without adding pearl powder, mulberry leaves and evening primrose extracts, the melanin reduction rate is significantly reduced. After 12 weeks, the melanin reduction rate is only 22.73%, and the whitening and freckle removal effect is significantly weakened.
[0115] V. Storage stability test
[0116] The transdermal cosmetics prepared in Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 were subjected to stability tests:
[0117] 20g of transdermal cosmetics were taken and subjected to high temperature test (50℃±2℃, 30d) and freeze-thaw test (-15℃±2℃, 48h). The test results are shown in Table 4 below.
[0118] Table 4 Stability test results
[0119]
[0120]
[0121] From the above results, it can be seen that the transdermal cosmetics of Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 have good stability, while the stability of Comparative Examples 3 to 7 is poor, indicating that the preparation methods of mulberry leaf extract and evening primrose extract affect the storage stability of transdermal cosmetics, and stratification will occur when the environmental conditions change, resulting in reduced stability of the product.
Claims
1. A transdermal cosmetic with whitening, skin-penetrating and spot-removing effects, characterized in that: Cosmetic products include the following ingredients: glycerin and phenethyl resorcinol.
2. A transdermal cosmetic with whitening, skin-penetrating and spot-removing effects according to claim 1, characterized in that: The cosmetic comprises the following raw materials in parts by mass: 3 to 5 parts of glycerin and 0.2 to 0.5 parts of phenethyl resorcinol.
3. A transdermal cosmetic with whitening, skin-penetrating and spot-removing effects according to claim 1, characterized in that: The cosmetic comprises the following raw materials in parts by mass: 3.5 to 4 parts of glycerin and 0.3 to 0.4 parts of phenethyl resorcinol.
4. A transdermal cosmetic with whitening, skin-penetrating and spot-removing effects according to claim 1, characterized in that: The cosmetics include the following raw materials in parts by weight: 1 to 3 parts of pearl powder extract, 1 to 3 parts of mulberry leaf extract, 0.5 to 1.5 parts of evening primrose extract, 0.2 to 0.5 parts of phenylethyl resorcinol, 2 to 5 parts of niacinamide, 1 to 3 parts of ascorbyl glucoside, 0.5 to 1 part of tranexamic acid, 0.1 to 0.5 parts of sodium hyaluronate, 0.1 to 0.5 parts of ceramide, 1 to 3 parts of lecithin, 1 to 3 parts of arbutin, 3 to 5 parts of glycerin, 2 to 4 parts of butylene glycol, 0.1 to 0.5 parts of carbomer, 0.1 to 0.5 parts of triethanolamine, and 0.1 to 0.5 parts of DEDM hydantoin. .05 to 0.1 parts, phenoxyethanol 0.05 to 0.1 parts, essence 0.05 to 2 parts and purified water 90 to 100 parts; the pearl powder extract is a product below 3000Da obtained by sequentially enzymatically hydrolyzing white pearls bred by Hyriopsis cumingii with pepsin and nattokinase; the mulberry leaf extract is a product below 3000Da obtained by sequentially enzymatically hydrolyzing mulberry leaves with hemicellulase, pepsin and chymotrypsin; the evening primrose extract is a product below 3000Da obtained by co-enzymatically hydrolyzing evening primrose with hemicellulase and pectinase, and then co-fermenting with Pediococcus acidilactici and Lactobacillus lactis.
5. A transdermal cosmetic with whitening, skin-penetrating and spot-removing effects according to claim 4, characterized in that: The preparation method of the pearl powder extract comprises the following steps: taking white pearls bred by Hyriopsis cumingii, crushing them to obtain pearl powder, adding water 8 to 12 times the mass of the pearl powder to the pearl powder, adjusting the pH to 1.5 to 2.0 with hydrochloric acid, adding pepsin, performing enzymatic hydrolysis at 36 to 39 degrees Celsius for 60 to 100 minutes, heating up to inactivate the enzyme, and after cooling to 40 to 45 degrees Celsius, adjusting the pH to 7.5 to 8.5, adding nattokinase, performing enzymatic hydrolysis at 40 to 45 degrees Celsius for 1.5 to 2 hours, heating up to inactivate the enzyme, and after cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 250-mesh to 325-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, and freeze-drying to obtain the pearl powder extract; The amount of pepsin added is 0.3% to 0.6% of the mass of the pearl powder; the amount of nattokinase added is 0.8% to 1.2% of the mass of the pearl powder; the temperature for heating and inactivating the enzyme is 80°C to 90°C, and the time for heating and inactivating the enzyme is 15min to 20min.
6. A transdermal cosmetic with whitening, skin-penetrating and spot-removing effects according to claim 4, characterized in that: The preparation method of the mulberry leaf extract comprises the following steps: taking fresh mulberry leaves and crushing them to obtain crushed materials, adding water of 6 to 8 times the mass of the crushed materials to the crushed materials, adjusting the pH to 5.2 to 5.6, adding hemicellulase, performing enzymolysis at 45 to 55 degrees Celsius for 1.5 to 2 hours, adjusting the pH to 1.5 to 2.0 with hydrochloric acid, adding pepsin, performing enzymolysis at 36 to 39 degrees Celsius for 60 to 100 minutes, heating to inactivate the enzyme, cooling to 36 to 38 degrees Celsius, adjusting the pH to 7.5 to 8.0, adding protease, performing enzymolysis at 36 to 38 degrees Celsius for 1 hour to 1.5 hours, heating to inactivate the enzyme, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 250-mesh to 325-mesh screen to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, and freeze-drying to obtain the mulberry leaf extract; The transdermal cosmetic with whitening, skin penetration and spot removal effects is characterized in that the added amount of hemicellulase is 0.5% to 1.5% of the mass of the crushed substance; the added amount of pepsin is 0.3% to 0.6% of the mass of the crushed substance; the added amount of chondrostenone is 0.8% to 1.2% of the mass of the crushed substance; the temperature for heating and inactivating the enzyme is 80°C to 90°C, and the time for heating and inactivating the enzyme is 15min to 20min.
7. A transdermal cosmetic with whitening, skin-penetrating and spot-removing effects according to claim 4, characterized in that: The preparation method of the evening primrose extract comprises the following steps: taking a whole evening primrose plant and crushing it to obtain a crushed material, adding water of 8 to 10 times the mass of the crushed material to the crushed material, adjusting the pH to 5.0 to 5.5, adding hemicellulase and pectinase, performing enzymolysis at 45 to 55°C for 2 to 3 hours, heating to inactivate the enzymes, cooling to 30 to 40°C to obtain an enzymolysis solution, then adding glucose and peptone, adjusting the pH to 5.5 to 6.2, adding Pediococcus acidilactici and Lactobacillus lactis, performing anaerobically fermenting at 30 to 40°C for 20 to 25 hours, adding anhydrous ethanol, soaking for 1 to 2 hours, sterilizing at high temperature, cooling to room temperature, filtering with a 250-mesh to 325-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering with a 3000Da ultrafiltration membrane, taking the ultrafiltrate below 3000Da, and freeze-drying to obtain the evening primrose extract.
8. A transdermal cosmetic with whitening, skin-penetrating and spot-removing effects according to claim 7, characterized in that: The amount of hemicellulase added is 0.8% to 2% of the mass of the crushed material; the amount of pectinase added is 1% to 2% of the mass of the crushed material; the amount of glucose added is 1% to 2.5% of the mass of the enzymatic hydrolysate; the amount of peptone added is 0.5% to 1.5% of the mass of the enzymatic hydrolysate; the amount of Pediococcus acidilactici added is 1% to 3% of the mass of the crushed material; and the amount of Lactobacillus lactis added is 1% to 3% of the mass of the crushed material.
9. A transdermal cosmetic with whitening, skin-penetrating and spot-removing effects according to claim 7, characterized in that: The temperature for heating and inactivating the enzyme is 80°C to 90°C, and the time for heating and inactivating the enzyme is 15min to 20min; the amount of anhydrous ethanol added is 0.5 times to 2 times the amount of the crushed material; the temperature for high-temperature sterilization is 121°C to 125°C, and the time for high-temperature sterilization is 15min to 25min.
10. The method for preparing a transdermal cosmetic with whitening, skin penetration and spot removal effects as claimed in claim 4, characterized in that: The preparation method comprises the following steps: According to the mass ratio, the purified water is heated to 75°C-85°C, carbomer is added to dissolve, and then triethanolamine, DEDM hydantoin and phenoxyethanol are added and mixed evenly, and then the temperature is lowered to 50°C-55°C, phenylethyl resorcinol, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, sodium hyaluronate, ceramide, lecithin, arbutin, glycerin and butylene glycol are added and mixed evenly, and then the temperature is lowered to 37°C-42°C, ascorbyl glucoside, pearl powder extract, mulberry leaf extract, evening primrose extract and essence are added and mixed evenly to obtain cosmetics.