A method for planting kudzu root using nylon grid

Abstract

A method for planting kudzu root with a nylon grid on a frame belongs to the field of agricultural planting technology. The method comprises the following steps in sequence: land preparation and ridge-making, cutting and seedling raising, transplanting and planting, frame and net laying, pruning and vine guiding, fertilization, root selection, pest and disease control, and timely harvesting. The present invention determines that the plant spacing is 30-35cm and the row spacing is 160-200cm, so that two rows of kudzu vines have sufficient space to unfold leaves, ensuring that the maximum area of ​​kudzu vines can be used for photosynthesis. The planting density of the present invention is determined to be 1300-1400 plants, which can ensure that the entire kudzu planting base has a reasonable population structure and has enough leaf area for photosynthesis. The nylon grid-type vine guiding method increases the leaf area of ​​kudzu vine photosynthesis in a limited space, is conducive to the growth and expansion of kudzu vine, and at the same time, can also increase the planting density of kudzu vine, improve the kudzu vine yield, land utilization rate and the economic benefit of kudzu farmers.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to a method for planting kudzu root with a vertical frame nylon grid, belonging to the technical field of agricultural planting. Background Art

[0002] Pueraria root is an economic crop that tolerates drought but not waterlogging. During the entire growing period, it requires sufficient sunlight, low humidity and little rain. Low temperature and rainy weather are not conducive to the growth and development of Pueraria root. At present, the cultivation methods of Pueraria root generally adopt two cultivation modes: soil cultivation and bamboo frame cultivation.

[0003] Climbing soil cultivation of kudzu root, because it is cultivated in the open field, if there is continuous rainfall and drainage is not timely, kudzu root will be affected, which will in turn affect the yield, quality and economic benefits of kudzu farmers. Bamboo frame cultivation There are two cultivation modes: when the kudzu vine grows to a few centimeters long, a 2m long bamboo pole or wooden pole is inserted between two kudzu plants, and two adjacent bamboo poles are crossed in a "human" shape, tied with ropes and fixed before the kudzu vine is led to the frame. If the planting density is too high, there is not enough space to stretch, the leaves overlap each other, and the photosynthetic leaf area is small, which is not conducive to the expansion of kudzu root, and the growth will be inhibited, resulting in reduced yield.

[0004] In view of this, it is necessary to develop a method for planting kudzu root on a vertical nylon grid to make up for the shortcomings of the prior art. Summary of the invention

[0005] The purpose of the present invention is to solve the shortcomings of the prior art and provide a method for planting kudzu root using a vertical nylon grid. The vertical nylon grid is set to ensure good ventilation during the growth period of the kudzu root and sufficient leaf area for photosynthesis, thereby improving the yield and quality of the kudzu root.

[0006] The purpose of the present invention is achieved through the following technical solutions.

[0007] A method for planting kudzu root using a nylon grid frame comprises the following steps in sequence:

[0008] (1) Land preparation and ridge making: Choose a loose and fertile loam or sandy loam that is close to a water source, convenient for irrigation and drainage, and has a soil layer of more than 40 cm thick. Remove weeds from the ground from the end of November to mid-March of the following year, apply 100-150 kg of quicklime per mu, and use mechanical deep rotary tillage to ensure that the soil is loose. Make ridges with a ridge height of 50-60 cm, a ridge surface width of 30-50 cm, a ridge bottom width of 100-110 cm, a ridge ditch width of 50-90 cm, and a ridge spacing of 160-200 cm. If it is a mountainous or sloping land, ridges must be made along the contour to prevent soil erosion. If it is a paddy field, a drainage ditch with a depth of more than 1 m must be dug around the field, and the accumulated water in the ditch can be discharged in time.

[0009] Before ridge formation, evenly spread ternary compound fertilizer and commercial organic fertilizer in a strip shape in the middle of the bottom of the ridge (fertilizer strip width is about 60cm), with the dosage of 50kg ternary compound fertilizer and 120kg commercial organic fertilizer per mu. After ridge formation, place the drip tape neatly along the ridge surface, and then cover the ridge surface with a black mulch film with a width of 150m-200m.

[0010] (2) Cutting seedlings: Select a sturdy and disease-free vine with a length of 8-10 cm, and cut the vine at a density of 3 cm × 3 cm on a seedbed with convenient drainage and irrigation, sheltered from the wind and facing the sun, with loose soil and good light transmittance. The morphological upper end is at the top, the vine is bounded by the bud eye, the length of the lower end of the bud is 4 cm ~ 5 cm, and the length of the upper end of the bud is 2 cm ~ 3 cm; do not insert upside down, and the depth is based on the bud eye just reaching the bed surface. After the cutting is completed, water it in time to allow the roots to take root, and it is better to close the soil at the cutting hole. Keep the soil of the seedbed moist and warm during the seedling raising period.

[0011] (3) Transplanting and planting: When the seedlings are 1.0 cm to 6.0 cm tall and the average daily temperature is above 15°C (around March 25 to April 5), they can be transplanted. One day before transplanting, water the seedbed thoroughly to facilitate seedling removal. Take the method of transplanting seedlings in batches, that is, lift the large ones and leave the small ones, and transplant them in batches. Pull up the seedlings carefully without damaging the young buds. It is best to plant the kudzu seedlings within 4 hours. Plant the seedlings at a spacing of 30 cm to 35 cm, with 1,300 to 1,400 seedlings per mu. After the seedlings are planted, gently compact the soil. Fill the soil to the buds where the seedlings grow, and water them in time to increase the survival rate. Complete the planting work in early April.

[0012] (4) Build the frame and lay the net, prune the branches and guide the vines: Build the frame and lay the net in early May. Use a handheld hole puncher to make a hole about 5 cm in diameter and 50 cm to 60 cm deep every 3 m on the edge of the ridge. Then insert a bamboo pole or wooden pole 2.5 m to 3 m long and about 5 cm in diameter into the hole to compact it. Pull a long steel wire about 1.7 m to 1.8 m from the top of the bamboo pole or wooden pole, and pull a nylon line 30 cm from the bottom of the pole. Then fix the 1.5 m wide nylon net on the steel wire and nylon line. The work of building the frame and laying the net is completed. In mid-to-late May, cut off all the side branches below 60 cm of the main stem vine, wipe off all the young shoots at the base, and guide the kudzu vines onto the frame.

[0013] (5) Fertilization: 20 days after transplanting, when the seedlings are about 20 cm tall, choose a sunny or cloudy day to carry out the first topdressing, spraying 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate plus 0.2% slow-release organic foliar fertilizer on the leaves. The second topdressing is carried out about 35 days after transplanting, with 7.5 kg of triple compound fertilizer applied to the roots per mu; the third topdressing is carried out about 45 days after transplanting, with 1 kg of high-potassium fertilizer + 5 kg of triple compound fertilizer applied to the roots per mu; Pueraria root enlargement fertilizer is applied from mid-July, and the first topdressing is carried out every 15 days or so, with 5 kg of high-potassium fertilizer (such as polysaccharide polypeptide biological potassium, avoid the use of potassium chloride) applied per mu each time, until late September.

[0014] (6) Selecting roots by exposing them: In early June, use a hoe to dig up the soil about 10 cm deep between two plants, and then use a high-pressure water gun to wash away the soil at the base of the plant, exposing the root heads and some underground lateral roots (tuberous roots) and fibrous roots. After 7 to 10 days, select 1 to 2 lateral roots (tuberous roots) with good growth and cut off the rest of the lateral roots and fibrous roots.

[0015] (7) Pest and disease control: Pueraria root has a strong ability to resist pests and diseases, and rarely suffers from diseases. Sometimes there may be slight damage such as rust and root rot, which have little impact on yield and quality, and no special control is required. The main pests are heart borers, stink bugs, locusts, aphids, cutworms, grubs, pine caterpillars, etc. If control is required, refer to NY / T 393-2013 Guidelines for the Use of Green Food Pesticides.

[0016] (8) Timely harvesting: In early October, the kudzu vines can be harvested and put on the market according to market conditions. Generally, after the frost falls (i.e., early to mid-December), when all the kudzu leaves turn yellow and fall off, they can be harvested in large quantities. It is best to complete the harvesting work around the beginning of spring. Before harvesting, cut the kudzu vines from the root with a knife, pull out the iron wire and roll it up, pull up the bamboo poles and remove the kudzu vines wrapped around them, and store the bamboo poles and iron wires together for use next year. Except for some kudzu vines that are reserved for cuttings, the rest are processed together and the ground is cleaned at the same time. The kudzu vines can be dug manually or harvested mechanically. The harvested kudzu roots should be sold or processed in time to prevent them from rotting.

[0017] The beneficial effects of the present invention are:

[0018] 1. The present invention determines that the plant spacing is 30-35 cm and the row spacing is 160-200 cm, so that the two rows of kudzu vines have sufficient space to spread their leaves and ensure that the maximum area of ​​kudzu root can carry out photosynthesis. The planting density of the present invention is determined to be 1300-1400 plants, which can ensure that the entire kudzu planting base has a reasonable population structure and sufficient leaf area for photosynthesis.

[0019] 2. The present invention sets up a frame, and the nylon mesh type of the frame increases the leaf area of ​​​​the photosynthesis of kudzu root in a limited space, which is beneficial to the growth and expansion of kudzu root. At the same time, it can also increase the planting density of kudzu root, improve the kudzu root yield, land utilization rate and economic benefits of kudzu farmers.

[0020] 3. The method of the present invention is simple, has broad market prospects, and is suitable for large-scale application and promotion. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0021] Preferred embodiments of the present invention are given below to illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention in detail.

[0022] Example 1.

[0023] A method for planting kudzu root using a nylon grid frame comprises the following steps in sequence:

[0024] (1) Land preparation and ridge making: Choose a loose and fertile loam or sandy loam that is close to a water source, convenient for irrigation and drainage, and with a soil layer of more than 40 cm thick. Remove weeds from the ground from the end of November to mid-March of the following year, apply 100 kg of quicklime per mu, and use mechanical deep rotary tillage to ensure that the soil is loose. Make ridges with a ridge height of 50 cm, a ridge surface width of 30 cm, a ridge bottom width of 100 cm, a ridge ditch width of 50 cm, and a ridge spacing of 160 cm; if it is a mountainous or sloping land, ridges must be made along the contour line to prevent soil erosion. If planting in paddy fields, a drainage ditch with a depth of more than 1 m must be dug around the field, and the accumulated water in the ditch can be discharged in time.

[0025] Before ridge formation, evenly spread ternary compound fertilizer and commercial organic fertilizer in a strip shape in the middle of the bottom of the ridge (fertilizer strip width is about 60cm), with the dosage of 50kg ternary compound fertilizer and 120kg commercial organic fertilizer per mu. After ridge formation, place the drip tape neatly along the ridge surface, and then cover the ridge surface with a 150m wide black mulch film.

[0026] (2) Cutting seedlings: Select a sturdy and disease-free vine with a length of 8-10 cm, and cut the vine at a density of 3 cm × 3 cm on a seedbed with convenient drainage and irrigation, sheltered from the wind and facing the sun, with loose soil and good light transmittance. The morphological upper end is at the top, the vine is bounded by the bud eye, the length of the lower end of the bud is 4 cm ~ 5 cm, and the length of the upper end of the bud is 2 cm ~ 3 cm; do not insert upside down, and the depth is based on the bud eye just reaching the bed surface. After the cutting is completed, water it in time to allow the roots to take root, and it is better to close the soil at the cutting hole. Keep the soil of the seedbed moist and warm during the seedling raising period.

[0027] (3) Transplanting and planting: When the seedlings are 1.0 cm to 6.0 cm tall and the average daily temperature is above 15°C (around March 25 to April 5), they can be transplanted. One day before transplanting, water the seedbed thoroughly to facilitate seedling removal. Take the method of transplanting seedlings in batches, that is, lift the large ones and leave the small ones, and transplant them in batches. Pull up the seedlings carefully without damaging the young buds. It is best to plant the pulled kudzu seedlings within 4 hours. Plant the seedlings at a spacing of 30 cm per acre, and plant 1,300 seedlings per mu. After the seedlings are planted, gently compact the soil. Fill the soil to the buds where the seedlings grow, and water them in time to increase the survival rate. Complete the planting work in early April.

[0028] (4) Build the frame and lay the net, prune the branches and guide the vines: Build the frame and lay the net in early May. Use a handheld hole puncher to make a hole about 5 cm in diameter and 50 cm deep every 3 m on the edge of the ridge. Then insert a bamboo pole or wooden pole 2.5 m long and about 5 cm in diameter into the hole to compact it. Pull a long steel wire about 1.7 m above the bamboo pole or wooden pole, and pull a nylon line 30 cm from the bottom of the pole. Then fix the 1.5 m wide nylon net on the steel wire and nylon line. The frame and net work is completed. In mid-to-late May, cut off all the side branches below 60 cm of the main stem vine, wipe off all the young shoots at the base, and guide the kudzu vines onto the frame.

[0029] (5) Fertilization: 20 days after transplanting, when the seedlings are about 20 cm tall, choose a sunny or cloudy day to carry out the first topdressing, spraying 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate plus 0.2% slow-release organic foliar fertilizer on the leaves. The second topdressing is carried out about 35 days after transplanting, with 7.5 kg of triple compound fertilizer applied to the roots per mu; the third topdressing is carried out about 45 days after transplanting, with 1 kg of high-potassium fertilizer + 5 kg of triple compound fertilizer applied to the roots per mu; Pueraria root enlargement fertilizer is applied from mid-July, and the first topdressing is carried out every 15 days or so, with 5 kg of high-potassium fertilizer (such as polysaccharide polypeptide biological potassium, avoid the use of potassium chloride) applied per mu each time, until late September.

[0030] (6) Selecting roots by exposing them: In early June, use a hoe to dig up the soil about 10 cm deep between two plants, and then use a high-pressure water gun to wash away the soil at the base of the plant, exposing the root heads and some underground lateral roots (tuberous roots) and fibrous roots. After 7 to 10 days, select 1 to 2 lateral roots (tuberous roots) with good growth and cut off the rest of the lateral roots and fibrous roots.

[0031] (7) Pest and disease control: Pueraria root has a strong ability to resist pests and diseases, and rarely suffers from diseases. Sometimes there may be slight damage such as rust and root rot, which have little impact on yield and quality, and no special control is required. The main pests are heart borers, stink bugs, locusts, aphids, cutworms, grubs, pine caterpillars, etc. If control is required, refer to NY / T 393-2013 Guidelines for the Use of Green Food Pesticides.

[0032] (8) Timely harvesting: In early October, the kudzu vines can be harvested and put on the market according to market conditions. Generally, after the frost falls (i.e., early to mid-December), when all the kudzu leaves turn yellow and fall off, they can be harvested in large quantities. It is best to complete the harvesting work around the beginning of spring. Before harvesting, cut the kudzu vines from the root with a knife, pull out the iron wire and roll it up, pull up the bamboo poles and remove the kudzu vines wrapped around them, and store the bamboo poles and iron wires together for use next year. Except for some kudzu vines that are reserved for cuttings, the rest are processed together and the ground is cleaned at the same time. The kudzu vines can be dug manually or harvested mechanically. The harvested kudzu roots should be sold or processed in time to prevent them from rotting.

[0033] Example 2.

[0034] A method for planting kudzu root using a nylon grid frame comprises the following steps in sequence:

[0035] (1) Land preparation and ridge making: Choose a loose and fertile loam or sandy loam that is close to a water source, convenient for irrigation and drainage, and has a soil layer of more than 40 cm thick. Remove weeds from the ground from the end of November to mid-March of the following year, apply 150 kg of quicklime per mu, and use mechanical deep rotary tillage to ensure that the soil is loose. Make ridges with a ridge height of 60 cm, a ridge surface width of 50 cm, a ridge bottom width of 110 cm, a ridge ditch width of 90 cm, and a ridge spacing of 200 cm; if it is a mountainous or sloping land, ridges must be made along the contour line to prevent soil erosion. If planting in paddy fields, a drainage ditch with a depth of more than 1 m must be dug around the field, and the accumulated water in the ditch can be discharged in time.

[0036] Before ridge formation, evenly spread ternary compound fertilizer and commercial organic fertilizer in a strip shape in the middle of the bottom of the ridge (fertilizer strip width is about 60cm), with the dosage of 50kg ternary compound fertilizer and 120kg commercial organic fertilizer per mu. After ridge formation, place the drip tape neatly along the ridge surface, and then cover the ridge surface with a 200m wide black mulch film.

[0037] (2) Cutting seedlings: Select a sturdy and disease-free vine with a length of 8-10 cm, and cut the vine at a density of 3 cm × 3 cm on a seedbed with convenient drainage and irrigation, sheltered from the wind and facing the sun, with loose soil and good light transmittance. The morphological upper end is at the top, the vine is bounded by the bud eye, the length of the lower end of the bud is 4 cm ~ 5 cm, and the length of the upper end of the bud is 2 cm ~ 3 cm; do not insert upside down, and the depth is based on the bud eye just reaching the bed surface. After the cutting is completed, water it in time to allow the roots to take root, and it is better to close the soil at the cutting hole. Keep the soil of the seedbed moist and warm during the seedling raising period.

[0038] (3) Transplanting and planting: When the seedlings are 1.0 cm to 6.0 cm tall and the average daily temperature is above 15°C (around March 25 to April 5), they can be transplanted. One day before transplanting, water the seedbed thoroughly to facilitate seedling removal. Take the method of transplanting seedlings in batches, that is, lift the large ones and leave the small ones, and transplant them in batches. Pull up the seedlings carefully without damaging the young buds. It is best to plant the kudzu seedlings within 4 hours. Plant the seedlings at a spacing of 35 cm per plant, 1,400 per mu. After the seedlings are planted, gently compact the soil. Fill the soil to the bud eyes of the seedlings, and water them in time to increase the survival rate. Complete the planting work in early April.

[0039] (4) Build the frame and lay the net, prune the branches and guide the vines: Build the frame and lay the net in early May. Use a handheld hole puncher to make a hole about 5 cm in diameter and 60 cm deep every 3 m on the edge of the ridge. Then insert a bamboo pole or wooden pole 3 m long and about 5 cm in diameter into the hole to compact it. Pull a long steel wire about 1.8 m above the bamboo pole or wooden pole, and pull a nylon line 30 cm from the bottom of the pole. Then fix the 1.5 m wide nylon net on the steel wire and nylon line. The frame and net work is completed. In mid-to-late May, cut off all the side branches below 60 cm of the main stem vine, wipe off all the young shoots at the base, and guide the kudzu vines onto the frame.

[0040] (5) Fertilization: 20 days after transplanting, when the seedlings are about 20 cm tall, choose a sunny or cloudy day to carry out the first topdressing, spraying 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate plus 0.2% slow-release organic foliar fertilizer on the leaves. The second topdressing is carried out about 35 days after transplanting, with 7.5 kg of triple compound fertilizer applied to the roots per mu; the third topdressing is carried out about 45 days after transplanting, with 1 kg of high-potassium fertilizer + 5 kg of triple compound fertilizer applied to the roots per mu; Pueraria root enlargement fertilizer is applied from mid-July, and the first topdressing is carried out every 15 days or so, with 5 kg of high-potassium fertilizer (such as polysaccharide polypeptide biological potassium, avoid the use of potassium chloride) applied per mu each time, until late September.

[0041] (6) Selecting roots by exposing them: In early June, use a hoe to dig up the soil about 10 cm deep between two plants, and then use a high-pressure water gun to wash away the soil at the base of the plant, exposing the root heads and some underground lateral roots (tuberous roots) and fibrous roots. After 7 to 10 days, select 1 to 2 lateral roots (tuberous roots) with good growth and cut off the rest of the lateral roots and fibrous roots.

[0042] (7) Pest and disease control: Pueraria root has a strong ability to resist pests and diseases, and rarely suffers from diseases. Sometimes there may be slight damage such as rust and root rot, which have little impact on yield and quality, and no special control is required. The main pests are heart borers, stink bugs, locusts, aphids, cutworms, grubs, pine caterpillars, etc. If control is required, refer to NY / T 393-2013 Guidelines for the Use of Green Food Pesticides.

[0043] (8) Timely harvesting: In early October, the kudzu vines can be harvested and put on the market according to market conditions. Generally, after the frost falls (i.e., early to mid-December), when all the kudzu leaves turn yellow and fall off, they can be harvested in large quantities. It is best to complete the harvesting work around the beginning of spring. Before harvesting, cut the kudzu vines from the root with a knife, pull out the iron wire and roll it up, pull up the bamboo poles and remove the kudzu vines wrapped around them, and store the bamboo poles and iron wires together for use next year. Except for some kudzu vines that are reserved for cuttings, the rest are processed together and the ground is cleaned at the same time. The kudzu vines can be dug manually or harvested mechanically. The harvested kudzu roots should be sold or processed in time to prevent them from rotting.

[0044] Example 3.

[0045] A method for planting kudzu root using a nylon grid frame comprises the following steps in sequence:

[0046] (1) Land preparation and ridge making: Choose a loose and fertile loam or sandy loam that is close to a water source, convenient for irrigation and drainage, and has a soil layer of more than 40 cm thick. Remove weeds from the ground from the end of November to mid-March of the following year, apply 120 kg of quicklime per mu, and use mechanical deep rotary tillage to ensure that the soil is loose. Make ridges with a ridge height of 55 cm, a ridge surface width of 40 cm, a ridge bottom width of 105 cm, a ridge ditch width of 70 cm, and a ridge spacing of 180 cm; if it is a mountainous or sloping land, ridges must be made along the contour line to prevent soil erosion. If planting in paddy fields, a drainage ditch with a depth of more than 1 m must be dug around the field, and the accumulated water in the ditch can be discharged in time.

[0047] Before ridge formation, evenly spread ternary compound fertilizer and commercial organic fertilizer in a strip shape in the middle of the bottom of the ridge (fertilizer strip width is about 60cm), with the dosage of 50kg ternary compound fertilizer and 120kg commercial organic fertilizer per mu. After ridge formation, place the drip tape neatly along the ridge surface, and then cover the ridge surface with a black mulch film with a width of 150m-200m.

[0048] (2) Cutting seedlings: Select a sturdy and disease-free vine with a length of 8-10 cm, and cut the vine at a density of 3 cm × 3 cm on a seedbed with convenient drainage and irrigation, sheltered from the wind and facing the sun, with loose soil and good light transmittance. The morphological upper end is at the top, the vine is bounded by the bud eye, the length of the lower end of the bud is 4 cm ~ 5 cm, and the length of the upper end of the bud is 2 cm ~ 3 cm; do not insert upside down, and the depth is based on the bud eye just reaching the bed surface. After the cutting is completed, water it in time to allow the roots to take root, and it is better to close the soil at the cutting hole. Keep the soil of the seedbed moist and warm during the seedling raising period.

[0049] (3) Transplanting and planting: When the seedlings are 1.0 cm to 6.0 cm tall and the average daily temperature is above 15°C (around March 25 to April 5), they can be transplanted. One day before transplanting, water the seedbed thoroughly to facilitate seedling removal. Take the method of transplanting seedlings in batches, that is, lift the large ones and leave the small ones, and transplant them in batches. Pull up the seedlings carefully without damaging the young buds. It is best to plant the kudzu seedlings within 4 hours. Plant the seedlings at a spacing of 32 cm per plant, with 1,350 seedlings per mu. After the seedlings are planted, gently compact the soil. Fill the soil to the buds where the seedlings grow, and water them in time to increase the survival rate. Complete the planting work in early April.

[0050] (4) Build the frame and lay the net, prune the branches and guide the vines: Build the frame and lay the net in early May. Use a handheld hole puncher to make a hole about 5 cm in diameter and 55 cm deep every 3 m on the edge of the ridge. Then insert a bamboo pole or wooden pole 2.8 m long and about 5 cm in diameter into the hole to compact it. Pull a long steel wire about 1.8 m above the bamboo pole or wooden pole, and pull a nylon line 30 cm from the bottom of the pole. Then fix the 1.5 m wide nylon net on the steel wire and nylon line. The frame and net work is completed. In mid-to-late May, cut off all the side branches below 60 cm of the main stem vine, wipe off all the young shoots at the base, and guide the vines onto the frame.

[0051] (5) Fertilization: 20 days after transplanting, when the seedlings are about 20 cm tall, choose a sunny or cloudy day to carry out the first topdressing, spraying 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate plus 0.2% slow-release organic foliar fertilizer on the leaves. The second topdressing is carried out about 35 days after transplanting, with 7.5 kg of triple compound fertilizer applied to the roots per mu; the third topdressing is carried out about 45 days after transplanting, with 1 kg of high-potassium fertilizer + 5 kg of triple compound fertilizer applied to the roots per mu; Pueraria root enlargement fertilizer is applied from mid-July, and the first topdressing is carried out every 15 days or so, with 5 kg of high-potassium fertilizer (such as polysaccharide polypeptide biological potassium, avoid the use of potassium chloride) applied per mu each time, until late September.

[0052] (6) Selecting roots by exposing them: In early June, use a hoe to dig up the soil about 10 cm deep between two plants, and then use a high-pressure water gun to wash away the soil at the base of the plant, exposing the root heads and some underground lateral roots (tuberous roots) and fibrous roots. After 7 to 10 days, select 1 to 2 lateral roots (tuberous roots) with good growth and cut off the rest of the lateral roots and fibrous roots.

[0053] (7) Pest and disease control: Pueraria root has a strong ability to resist pests and diseases, and rarely suffers from diseases. Sometimes there may be slight damage such as rust and root rot, which have little impact on yield and quality, and no special control is required. The main pests are heart borers, stink bugs, locusts, aphids, cutworms, grubs, pine caterpillars, etc. If control is required, refer to NY / T 393-2013 Guidelines for the Use of Green Food Pesticides.

[0054] (8) Timely harvesting: In early October, the kudzu vines can be harvested and put on the market according to market conditions. Generally, after the frost falls (i.e., early to mid-December), when all the kudzu leaves turn yellow and fall off, they can be harvested in large quantities. It is best to complete the harvesting work around the beginning of spring. Before harvesting, cut the kudzu vines from the root with a knife, pull out the iron wire and roll it up, pull up the bamboo poles and remove the kudzu vines wrapped around them, and store the bamboo poles and iron wires together for use next year. Except for some kudzu vines that are reserved for cuttings, the rest are processed together and the ground is cleaned at the same time. The kudzu vines can be dug manually or harvested mechanically. The harvested kudzu roots should be sold or processed in time to prevent them from rotting.

[0055] The above are only preferred embodiments of the present invention, and those skilled in the art may make various modifications and changes to the present invention. Therefore, the present invention covers various modifications and changes that fall within the scope of the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims

1. A method for planting kudzu root using a nylon grid, characterized in that: The following steps are included in sequence: (1) Land preparation and ridge making: Select a loose and fertile loam or sandy loam soil that is close to a water source and has convenient drainage and irrigation, and a soil layer of more than 40 cm thick. Apply 100-150 kg of quicklime per mu and use mechanical deep rotary tillage to ensure that the soil is loose. Make ridges with a ridge height of 50-60 cm, a ridge surface width of 30-50 cm, a ridge bottom width of 100-110 cm, a ridge ditch width of 50-90 cm, and a ridge spacing of 160-200 cm. Before ridge formation, evenly spread ternary compound fertilizer and commercial organic fertilizer in a strip shape in the middle of the bottom of the ridge, with the dosage of 50kg ternary compound fertilizer and 120kg commercial organic fertilizer per mu; after ridge formation, place the drip tape neatly along the ridge surface, and then cover the ridge surface with a black mulch film with a width of 150m-200m; (2) Cutting seedlings: Select a sturdy, disease-free vine that is 8 to 10 cm long, and cut the vines at a density of 3 cm × 3 cm on a seedbed with convenient drainage and irrigation, sheltered from the wind and facing the sun, with loose soil and good light transmittance. The morphological upper end is at the top, and the vine is bounded by the bud eye, with a length of 4 cm to 5 cm at the lower end of the bud and a length of 2 cm to 3 cm at the upper end of the bud. Do not insert the vine upside down, and the depth should be based on the bud eye just reaching the bed surface. After the cutting is completed, water the roots in time until the soil at the cutting hole is closed. Keep the soil in the seedbed moist and warm during the seedling raising period. (3) Transplanting and planting: When the seedlings are 1.0 cm to 6.0 cm tall and the daily average temperature is stable above 15°C, they can be transplanted. One day before transplanting, the seedbed should be watered thoroughly to facilitate seedling removal. The seedlings should be transplanted in batches, that is, the larger ones should be lifted and the smaller ones should be left. The seedlings should be carefully pulled up without damaging the young buds. The pulled kudzu seedlings should be planted within 4 hours. The seedlings should be planted at a spacing of 30 cm to 35 cm, with 1,300 to 1,400 seedlings per mu. After the seedlings are planted, the soil should be lightly compacted to the buds where the seedlings grow, and watered in time to increase the survival rate. The planting work should be completed in early April. (4) Build the frame and lay the net, prune the branches and guide the vines: Build the frame and lay the net in early May. Use a handheld hole puncher to make a hole with a diameter of 5 cm and a depth of 50 cm to 60 cm every 3 m on the edge of the ridge. Then insert a bamboo pole or wooden pole 2.5 m to 3 m long and 5 cm in diameter into the hole to compact it. Pull a long steel wire about 1.7 m to 1.8 m from the top of the bamboo pole or wooden pole, and pull a nylon line 30 cm from the bottom of the pole. Then fix a 1.5 m wide nylon net on the steel wire and nylon line. The work of building the frame and laying the net is completed. In mid-to-late May, cut off all the side branches below 60 cm of the main stem vine, wipe off all the young shoots at the base, and guide the kudzu vines onto the frame. (5) Fertilization: 20 days after transplanting, when the seedlings are about 20 cm tall, choose a sunny or cloudy day to carry out the first topdressing, spraying 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate plus 0.2% slow-release organic foliar fertilizer on the leaves; 35 days after transplanting, carry out the second topdressing, applying 7.5 kg of triple compound fertilizer per mu to the roots; 45 days after transplanting, carry out the third topdressing, applying 1 kg of high-potassium fertilizer + 5 kg of triple compound fertilizer per mu to the roots; start applying kudzu root enlargement fertilizer in mid-July, and carry out the first topdressing every 15 days or so, applying 5 kg of high-potassium fertilizer per mu each time, until late September; (6) Root exposure: In early June, use a hoe to dig up the soil about 10 cm deep between two plants, and then use a high-pressure water gun to wash away the soil at the base of the plant to expose the root head and some underground lateral roots / tuberous roots and fibrous roots. After 7 to 10 days, select 1 to 2 lateral roots / tuberous roots with good growth and cut off the rest of the lateral roots and fibrous roots. (7) Pest and disease control: refer to NY / T 393-2013 Guidelines for the Use of Green Food Pesticides; (8) Timely harvesting: Harvesting begins in early October. After the frost, when all the kudzu leaves turn yellow and fall off, large-scale harvesting begins, and the harvesting work is completed around the beginning of spring.

2. The method for planting kudzu root using a vertical nylon grid according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the step (1), when the ridge is located in the paddy field, a drainage ditch with a depth of more than 1m is dug around the field, and the accumulated water in the ditch can be discharged in time.

3. The method for planting kudzu root using a vertical nylon grid according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the step (1), before ridge formation, a strip of fertilizer is applied in the middle of the bottom of the ridge with a width of 60 cm.