Process for the production of renewable cashmere coloured air yarn

Abstract

The application discloses a preparation method of regenerated cashmere colored yarn air yarn, and relates to the technical field of textiles. The application is characterized in that the hard return yarn of the stock color cashmere yarn of the roving warehouse is developed and carded to form the regenerated cashmere, the hard return yarn of the stock color cashmere yarn is not used, and therefore the quality of the regenerated cashmere is better. The hard return yarn of the stock color cashmere yarn of the worsted spinning is selected as the colored yarn, and the colors are reasonably matched. The main process flow of the application is: wool blending, wool carding, spinning, bobbin winding, doubling and double twisting. Compared with the prior art, the application improves the production process, so that the quality of the air yarn produced by the regenerated cashmere fiber is not worse than that of the air yarn produced by the normal cashmere fiber. Meanwhile, the cashmere fiber naturally lost in the production process can be used as the colored yarn. The application not only enables the abandoned cashmere fiber to be reused, but also greatly increases the use rate of the cashmere fiber in the normal production activities, and realizes the sustainable development.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile technology, and in particular to a method for weaving renewable cashmere yarn. Background Technology

[0002] Cashmere fiber is a very precious and scarce raw material, with a very limited annual production. Cashmere is highly valued not only because of its scarcity (accounting for only 0.2% of the world's total animal fiber production), but more importantly because of its superior quality and properties. It is traded by the gram and is considered a "fiber gem" and "fiber queen." Research shows that cashmere products are becoming increasingly common in China, entering ordinary households. However, cashmere products cannot be stored indefinitely; their lifespan is short. What should be done with these cashmere products after their lifespan ends? Simply disposing of them as waste is not only environmentally unfriendly but also a huge waste of resources.

[0003] With increasing emphasis on environmental protection, sustainable development has also impacted the textile industry. This has led to the emergence of renewable cashmere and wool. Renewable cashmere is essentially the recycling and reuse of cashmere fibers. Most often, cashmere sweaters are recycled, shredded and decolorized using specialized equipment, and then spun into yarn. The resulting yarn is called renewable cashmere.

[0004] Colored yarn is yarn in which short segments of gold or silver threads or yarns of one or more different colors are attached to the surface of the yarn. It can have light-colored threads attached to a dark-colored base yarn, or dark-colored threads attached to a light-colored base yarn. The sources of the colored threads in this type of yarn are wide-ranging; they can be loose gold or silver threads, or single or plied yarns of different counts that have been dyed and cut short to be used as colored threads. Because there are many specifications and no restrictions on the thickness of the colored threads, colored yarn can generally be made into very fine yarns, but it can also be made into coarse yarns. Colored yarn is suitable for both woolen and worsted spinning.

[0005] With the development of the times and the advancement of technology, people's requirements for the quality and appearance of clothing have become more stringent and diversified. In the process of choosing clothing, people not only care about the material properties of the fabrics but also pay greater attention to the cultural content expressed by those materials. This is especially true for those born in the 1980s and 1990s who have just entered the workforce, who have a desire for fashionable, individualistic, and novel clothing, and tend to prefer brightly colored, high-contrast garments that showcase their personality. Colored yarn caters to this demand. Its diverse color mixing, strong visual effect, and the random and even distribution of different colored threads create a beautiful, lively, and fresh style, adding a strong sense of color and a striking appearance to the fabric. It satisfies both people's aesthetic requirements and market demands. Furthermore, the wide range of raw material requirements for colored yarn makes it well-suited for applications with renewable cashmere. Summary of the Invention

[0006] This invention addresses the shortcomings of existing technologies by providing a method for preparing renewable cashmere colored yarn, which produces air yarn of comparable quality to that produced from normal cashmere fibers. Furthermore, it utilizes cashmere fibers naturally lost during the production process as colored yarn, enabling the reuse of waste cashmere fibers and significantly increasing the utilization rate of cashmere fibers in normal production activities, thus truly achieving sustainable development.

[0007] To solve the above-mentioned technical problems, the present invention provides a method for preparing renewable cashmere colored yarn, comprising the following steps: Step A: Selecting waste cashmere yarn for loosening. First, the waste cashmere yarn fiber structure is loosened by a loosening machine, making it fluffy and soft. Then, the waste cashmere yarn fibers are further torn and dispersed by an opening machine, becoming soft and fine. Subsequently, it is combed to obtain renewable cashmere fibers that are shorter than natural cashmere fibers overall. During the opening process, a wool-refining oil is added. Step B: Collecting cashmere fibers that are naturally lost during normal production. Different colors and different counts are collected separately. After removing impurities and dust, the fibers are combed and finally cut into segments to obtain different colored yarn fibers with fiber lengths between 3 mm and 4 mm. Step C: Performing wool-refining. During wool-refining, the renewable cashmere fibers and colored yarn fibers are mixed, combed, and then beaten evenly to ensure that the wool raw materials are evenly mixed. At the same time, a wool-refining agent is added, and then the mixture is allowed to cure for more than 8 hours. Step D: Combing the blended material. During combing, two rovings are joined into one lap. The spacing between the working roller, cylinder, and doffer during combing must ensure that the colored fibers are not combed apart or broken. Step E: Spinning the yarn. The yarn count is 9 Nm-9.5 Nm. The draft ratio is between 1.00 and 1.05. The single yarn twist is between 100T / M and 200T / M. The twist direction is "Z". The spindle speed is between 5500 rpm and 5000 rpm, using minimum draft. Step F: Winding and twisting. The winding speed is between 200 m / min and 500 m / min during winding and between 3000 rpm and 4000 rpm during twisting. The twist is between 50T / M and 100T / M. The twist direction is "S", resulting in the blended yarn.

[0008] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step A, the fineness of the renewable cashmere fiber is between 15μm and 16μm, and the length is between 18mm and 20mm.

[0009] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step B, the cashmere fibers that are naturally lost during the production of 1 / 48Nm worsted spinning are collected.

[0010] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step A, 5% crude oil FX-905 is added during the opening process by weight percentage.

[0011] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step D, the interval between the working roller and the cylinder during combing is as follows: the working roller and the cylinder section A are between 0.5mm and 1.5mm, the working roller and the cylinder section B are between 2mm and 4mm, the working roller and the cylinder section C are between 0.5mm and 1mm, and the working roller and the chest cylinder are between 2mm and 6mm; the interval between the doffer and the cylinder is as follows: the doffer and the cylinder section A are between 0.50mm and 0.80mm, the doffer and the cylinder section B are between 0.40mm and 0.8mm, the doffer and the cylinder section C are between 0.30mm and 0.60mm, and the doffer and the chest cylinder are between 0.5mm and 0.9mm.

[0012] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step C, the oil-water mixture comprises 2.5% FX-906 and crude oil, and 1.2% FX-AS301 antistatic agent by mass percentage.

[0013] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step C, the moisture regain of the raw materials after processing is controlled between 12% and 15%.

[0014] The core of this application is the use of dyed renewable cashmere and colored yarn. This production method eliminates the need for re-dyeing the fibers, shortening the overall production process and saving resources. In particular, the colored yarn utilizes cashmere fibers naturally lost during normal production, making use of production losses that would otherwise be unusable, greatly improving the overall efficiency of cashmere fiber utilization. Furthermore, the raw material for renewable cashmere fiber is waste cashmere yarn, not waste cashmere clothing. Therefore, the physical properties of the renewable cashmere fiber in this application are significantly improved compared to existing renewable cashmere fibers made from recycled clothing. After opening, apart from a significant difference in fiber length compared to normal cashmere fibers, other physical properties such as fineness and strength are not much inferior to normal cashmere fibers, and spinnability, weaveability, and non-shedding properties meet standards. Therefore, the performance of fabrics made from renewable cashmere fibers can be improved through manufacturing processes. In particular, the air yarn in this application slightly reduces the physical properties of cashmere fibers, making it very suitable for the application of renewable cashmere fibers. In actual production, through process improvements, air yarn spun from renewable cashmere fibers can be made comparable to air yarn spun from normal cashmere.

[0015] This application uses recycled cashmere made from the unused hard reel of coarse-spun stock-colored cashmere yarn through a process of loosening and combing. Because the hard reel of the cashmere yarn has not been used before, the resulting recycled cashmere is of higher quality. The colored yarn is also made from the hard reel of fine-spun stock-colored cashmere yarn, with a reasonable color combination. The main process flow of this application is: wool mixing – combing – spinning – winding – doubling – twisting. A domestically produced BC262A wool mixing machine is used to ensure uniform mixing of fibers and colored yarns. The wool mixing auxiliaries are products of Beijing Fangxing: wool mixing oil FX-905 and antistatic agent FX-AS301. The carding process utilizes an Italian-imported OCTIR carding machine. The carding process prioritizes minimizing fiber damage, appropriately increasing the spinning gap to prevent the colored fibers from being combed open, broken, or damaged, and to reduce shedding. The output speed and speed ratio of each carding stage are appropriately reduced to weaken the carding and further minimize fiber damage. Regenerated cashmere colored fiber airy yarn requires a more fluffy, soft, and lightweight feel; therefore, carding involves combining two rovings into one yarn package. The spinning machine is an Italian-imported B7 spinning machine with a spindle speed of 4500-5000 RPM and a draft controlled at 1.03. Minimum draft is used because recycled cashmere is shorter and has a higher short fiber content. The subsequent winding and twisting process must consider yarn strength. If the yarn strength is low, the winding tension should be reduced to prevent the yarn from being stretched thin during subsequent production, causing deviations in the finished yarn count. The colored fiber airy yarn woven using the above methods has a high bonding strength between the original yarn and the colored fibers, preventing the colored fibers from falling off during weaving. The colors are diverse, and the colored threads can be dense or sparse, regular or irregular, long or short.

[0016] Compared with existing technologies, this application improves the production process so that the quality of air yarn produced from renewable cashmere fibers is no less than that produced from normal cashmere fibers. At the same time, it can also use cashmere fibers that are naturally lost during the production process as colored yarns. This not only allows the waste cashmere fibers to be reused, but also greatly increases the utilization rate of cashmere fibers in normal production activities, truly achieving sustainable development. Detailed Implementation

[0017] Example 1: A method for preparing renewable cashmere colored yarn, comprising the following steps:

[0018] Step A: Select waste cashmere yarn for loosening. First, use a loosening machine to loosen the fiber structure of the waste cashmere yarn, making it fluffy and soft. Then, use an opening machine to further tear and disperse the waste cashmere yarn fibers, making them soft and fine. After that, comb the yarn to obtain renewable cashmere fibers that are shorter than natural cashmere fibers. Add wool oil during the opening process. The renewable cashmere fibers have a fineness of 15μm and a length of 18mm. By weight percentage, 5% wool oil FX-905 is added during the opening process.

[0019] Step B: Collect cashmere fibers that are naturally lost during normal production, classify them by color and count, remove impurities and dust, comb them, and finally cut them into segments to obtain different colored fibers with a fiber length between 3 mm; collect cashmere fibers that are naturally lost during the production of 1 / 48Nm worsted spinning.

[0020] Step C: Perform wool blending. During wool blending, the renewable cashmere fibers and colored silk fibers are mixed, combed, and then beaten evenly to ensure that the wool raw materials are evenly mixed. At the same time, a wool blending agent is added, and then the wool is cured for more than 8 hours. By weight percentage, the oil and water contains 2.5% FX-906 and wool oil, 1.2% FX-AS301 antistatic agent, and the moisture regain of the raw materials after wool blending is controlled at 12%.

[0021] Step D: Combing the mixture. During combing, two rovings are joined into one spool. The spacing between the work roller, cylinder, and doffer during combing must ensure that the colored fibers are not combed apart or broken. In Step D, the spacing between the work roller and the cylinder during combing is as follows: 0.5mm between the work roller and cylinder section A, 2mm between the work roller and cylinder section B, 0.5mm between the work roller and cylinder section C, and 2mm between the work roller and the chest cylinder. The spacing between the doffer and the cylinder is as follows: 0.50mm between the doffer and cylinder section A, 0.40mm between the doffer and cylinder section B, 0.30mm between the doffer and cylinder section C, and 0.5mm between the doffer and the chest cylinder.

[0022] Step E: Perform fine spinning treatment, with a yarn count of 9 Nm, a draft ratio of 1.00-, a single yarn twist of 100 T / M, a twist direction of "Z", and a spindle speed of 5500 rpm, using minimum draft. Step F: Perform winding and twisting treatment, with a spinning speed of 200 m / min during winding and a spinning speed of 3000 rpm and a twist of 50 T / M during doubling, with a twist direction of "S", to obtain the blended yarn.

[0023] Example 2: A method for preparing renewable cashmere colored yarn, comprising the following steps:

[0024] Step A: Select waste cashmere yarn for development and loosening. First, use a loosening machine to loosen the fiber structure of the waste cashmere yarn, making it fluffy and soft. Then, use an opening machine to further tear and disperse the waste cashmere yarn fibers, making them soft and fine. Subsequently, combing is performed to obtain renewable cashmere fibers that are shorter than natural cashmere fibers overall. During the opening process, wool oil is added. The renewable cashmere fibers have a fineness of 16μm and a length of 20mm. By weight percentage, 5% wool oil FX-905 is added during the opening process.

[0025] Step B: Collect cashmere fibers that are naturally lost during normal production, classify them by color and count, remove impurities and dust, comb them, and finally cut them into segments to obtain different colored fibers with a fiber length between 4mm; collect cashmere fibers that are naturally lost during the production of 1 / 48Nm worsted spinning.

[0026] Step C: Perform wool blending. During wool blending, the renewable cashmere fibers and colored silk fibers are mixed, combed, and then beaten evenly to ensure that the wool raw materials are evenly mixed. At the same time, a wool blending agent is added, and then the wool is cured for more than 8 hours. By weight percentage, the oil-water mixture includes 2.5% FX-906 and wool oil, 1.2% FX-AS301 antistatic agent, and the moisture regain of the raw materials after wool blending is controlled at 15%.

[0027] Step D: Combing the mixture. During combing, two rovings are joined into one spool. The spacing between the work roller, cylinder, and doffer during combing must ensure that the colored fibers are not combed apart or broken. In Step D, the spacing between the work roller and the cylinder during combing is as follows: 1.5mm between the work roller and section A cylinder, 4mm between the work roller and section B cylinder, 1mm between the work roller and section C cylinder, and 6mm between the work roller and the chest cylinder. The spacing between the doffer and the cylinder is as follows: 0.80mm between the doffer and section A cylinder, 0.8mm between the doffer and section B cylinder, 0.60mm between the doffer and section C cylinder, and 0.9mm between the doffer and the chest cylinder.

[0028] Step E: Perform fine spinning treatment, with a yarn count of 9.5 Nm, a draft ratio of 1.05, a single yarn twist of 200 T / M, a twist direction of "Z", a spindle speed of 5000 rpm, and minimum draft.

[0029] Step F: Perform winding and twisting treatment, wherein the machine speed is 500m / min when winding and 4000rpm and the twist is 100T / M when twisting, with the twist direction "S", to obtain blended yarn.

[0030] Example 3: A method for preparing renewable cashmere colored yarn, comprising the following steps:

[0031] Step A: Select waste cashmere yarn for loosening. First, use a loosening machine to loosen the fiber structure of the waste cashmere yarn, making it fluffy and soft. Then, use an opening machine to further tear and disperse the waste cashmere yarn fibers, making them soft and fine. After that, combing is performed to obtain renewable cashmere fibers that are shorter than natural cashmere fibers overall. During the opening process, wool oil is added. The renewable cashmere fibers have a fineness of 15.81μm and a length of 19mm. By weight percentage, 5% wool oil FX-905 is added during the opening process.

[0032] Step B: Collect cashmere fibers that are naturally lost during normal production, classify them by color and count, remove impurities and dust, comb them, and finally cut them into segments to obtain different colored fibers with a fiber length between 3.5mm; collect cashmere fibers that are naturally lost during the production of 1 / 48Nm worsted spinning.

[0033] Step C: Perform wool blending. During wool blending, the renewable cashmere fibers and colored silk fibers are mixed, combed, and then beaten evenly to ensure that the wool raw materials are evenly mixed. At the same time, a wool blending agent is added, and then the wool is cured for more than 8 hours. By weight percentage, the oil-water mixture includes 2.5% FX-906 and wool oil, and 1.2% FX-AS301 antistatic agent. After wool blending, the moisture regain of the raw materials is controlled between 12% and 15%.

[0034] Step D: Combing the mixture. During combing, two rovings are joined into one spool. The spacing between the work roller, cylinder, and doffer during combing must ensure that the colored fibers are not combed apart or broken. In Step D, the spacing between the work roller and the cylinder during combing is as follows: 1mm between the work roller and section A cylinder, 3mm between the work roller and section B cylinder, 0.8mm between the work roller and section C cylinder, and 4mm between the work roller and the chest cylinder. The spacing between the doffer and the cylinder is as follows: 0.6mm between the doffer and section A cylinder, 0.7mm between the doffer and section B cylinder, 0.5mm between the doffer and section C cylinder, and 0.6mm between the doffer and the chest cylinder.

[0035] Step E: Perform fine spinning treatment. The yarn count is 9 Nm, the draft ratio is between 1.03, the single yarn twist is between 150T / m, the twist direction is "Z", the spindle speed is 5500 rpm, and the minimum draft is used.

[0036] Step F: Perform winding and twisting treatment, wherein the machine speed is 350m / min when winding and 3500rpm and the twist is 75T / m when twisting, with the twist direction "S", to obtain blended yarn.

Claims

1. A method for the production of renewable air yarns with coloured cashmere filaments, characterized by, The method comprises the following steps: Step A: the waste cashmere yarn is selected for development, the fiber structure of the waste cashmere yarn is loosened by a loosening machine, and the waste cashmere yarn becomes fluffy and soft, then the waste cashmere yarn is further torn and dispersed by an opening machine, and becomes soft and fine, and then carding is performed, renewable cashmere fibers shorter than natural cashmere fibers are obtained, and oiling agent is added in the opening process; Step B: the cashmere fibers naturally lost in the normal production process are collected, different colors and different counts are classified and collected, and after impurity and dust removal, carding is performed, and finally cutting is performed, different colored fiber lengths of 3 mm-4 mm are obtained; Step C: oiling is performed, the renewable cashmere fibers and the colored fibers are mixed and carded, then are evenly mixed and beaten, the wool and cashmere raw materials are uniformly mixed, and then oiling agent is added, and the wool is steamed and aged for more than 8 h; Step D: the mixed material is carded, two rovings are combined into one wool lap, and the spacing between the working roller, the cylinder and the doffer needs to be ensured to prevent the colored fibers from being carded open and broken; Step E: spinning treatment is performed, the spinning count is 9 Nm-9.5 Nm, the draft ratio is 1.00-1.05, the single yarn twist is 100T / M~200T / M, the twist direction is "Z", the spindle speed is 5500 rpm ~5000 rpm, and the minimum draft is adopted; Step F: the yarn is combined and twisted, the speed is 200 m / min~500 m / min during the combining, the speed is 3000 rpm ~4000 rpm during the doubling, the twist is 50T / M~100T / M, and the twist direction is "S", and the blended yarn is obtained.

2. A process for the production of renewable cashmere air yarn with coloured filaments as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that, in In step A, the renewable cashmere fiber fineness is between 15 μm and 16 μm, and the length is between 18 mm and 20 mm.

3. A process for the production of renewable cashmere air yarn with coloured filament as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that, In step B, the cashmere fibers naturally lost during the production of 1 / 48 Nm spinning are collected.

4. The method of claim 1, wherein the renewable air yarn of pashmina and coloured silk is characterized in that, In step A, 5% of oiling agent FX-905 is added in the opening process.

5. The preparation method of the renewable cashmere colored yarn air yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that in step D, the spacing between the working roller and the cylinder is that the spacing between the working roller and the A section cylinder is 0.5 mm-1.5 mm, the spacing between the working roller and the B section cylinder is 2 mm-4 mm, the spacing between the working roller and the C section cylinder is 0.5 mm-1 mm, and the spacing between the working roller and the chest cylinder is 2 mm-6 mm; and the spacing between the doffer and the cylinder is that the spacing between the doffer and the A section cylinder is 0.50 mm-0.80 mm, the spacing between the doffer and the B section cylinder is 0.40 mm-0.8 mm, the spacing between the doffer and the C section cylinder is 0.30 mm-0.60 mm, and the spacing between the doffer and the chest cylinder is 0.5 mm-0.9 mm.

6. A process for the production of renewable cashmere air yarn with coloured filament as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that, In step C, the oil water includes 2.5% of FX-906 and oiling agent, and 1.2% of FX-AS301 antistatic agent.

7. A process for the production of renewable cashmere air yarn with coloured filament as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that, In step C, the moisture content of the raw material after oiling is controlled to be 12%-15%. In step C, the moisture content of the raw material after oiling is controlled to be 12%-15%.