Production process of interweaving modal-type composite yarn with silk

Abstract

This invention discloses a production process for interweaving wool-type composite yarn with silk. The steps are as follows: the tension of both wool and iterated polyester yarn-D is 1g, the twisting tension is 15±0.5g, the twist is 5T, and after setting and forming into bobbins, wool-type composite yarn is obtained; the warp A, warp B and C of the warp and weft interweaving are all raw silk, the weft A is 40N / 1 wool, and the weft B is wool-type composite yarn; the interwoven fabric is immersed in a scouring tank and the sericin of the raw silk warp is removed intermittently, the scouring tank is filled with silk and wool liquid protease; disperse dye and wool reactive dye are placed in the same dyeing vat, dyeing is first carried out at room temperature, and then the temperature is raised, kept warm and lowered in sequence, and the residual water after dyeing is discharged after cooling; during alkaline washing, the temperature is raised, kept warm and lowered, and the residual water after washing is discharged after cooling; the dyed fabric is immersed, squeezed and then hot air stretched and dried, and then low temperature set in eight boxes. Using the above technical solution, the composite yarn has high quality, the fabric is dyed evenly with less staining, and the iterative polyester yarn-D has good color fastness and excellent wearability.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] This invention relates to a fabric production process, specifically a production process that interweaves wool-type composite yarn with silk. [Background Technology]

[0002] Composite yarns of different fineness are made from iterative polyester filament-D and wool. The process usually includes spinning and twisting. Because the tension of iterative polyester filament-D and wool is not easy to set during spinning and the twisting tension is difficult to control, the uniformity of coating is affected, resulting in poor processing quality of composite yarns and affecting subsequent normal weaving.

[0003] Fabrics woven with composite yarns consisting of iterative polyester-D and wool as weft and silk warp are difficult to dye at low temperatures during the post-weaving dyeing process. Furthermore, the dyeing temperature is not easily controlled effectively, resulting in suboptimal color control of different raw materials and insufficient color transfer between different materials. During post-dyeing washing, the temperature is not easily controlled properly, leading to excessive dye residue in the water and poor color fixation of the fabric. The post-wash setting process is also difficult to control, thus affecting the hand feel and wearability of the finished fabric. [Summary of the Invention]

[0004] The purpose of this invention is to provide a production process for interweaving wool-type composite yarn and silk. This production process is beneficial to improving the dyeing efficiency of the interwoven fabric, while controlling the color difference between different raw materials and minimizing color transfer between them. After proper alkali washing, the color fastness is good, the finished product has a good hand feel and excellent wearability after setting, and the processing quality of the composite yarn is high.

[0005] Therefore, the present invention provides the following technical solution:

[0006] The production process of interweaving wool-type composite yarn with silk includes the following steps:

[0007] a) First, combine the yarn and then twist it: Combine 60N / 1 wool and 50D / 72F iterative polyester yarn-D, with a wool tension of 1g and an iterative polyester yarn-D tension of 1g. Twist the yarn on the machine with a tension of 15±0.5g, a twist of 5T, and a twist direction of S. Then, steam it in a steamer to set it, and finally form it into a bobbin to obtain wool-dal type composite yarn.

[0008] b) Warp and weft interlacing: Weaving is carried out on a multi-arm loom. Warp A, warp B and warp C are 2 / 20 / 22D 3T / S raw silk, 4 / 20 / 22D 24T / S raw silk and 4 / 20 / 22D 24T / Z raw silk, respectively. Weft A is 40N / 1 wool and weft B uses the wool-dell type composite yarn from step a).

[0009] c) Pretreatment of interwoven fabric: The interwoven fabric is immersed in a scouring tank and the sericin of the raw silk warp is removed by intermittent immersion. The scouring tank contains a liquid silk and wool protease with an activity of 16.0 KNPU / g and a mass concentration of 4 g / L. The degumming temperature and time are 45℃ and 90 min, respectively.

[0010] d) Dyeing of mixed fabrics in the same bath: Disperse dyes and wool reactive dyes are placed in the same dyeing vat. The mixed fabrics are then placed in the vat and dyed under acidic conditions. First, the fabrics are dyed at room temperature and pressure. Then, the temperature is raised, held, and lowered in sequence. The temperature is raised to 70°C at a rate of 1°C / min. After exceeding 70°C, the temperature is raised at a rate of 0.5°C / min and held at 98-100°C for 60-68 minutes. Then, the temperature is lowered at a rate of 0.5°C / min. When the temperature drops to 70°C, the residual dyeing water is discharged.

[0011] e) Alkaline washing of dyed fabrics: Use sodium bicarbonate with a mass concentration of 0.2-0.25 g / L or industrial ammonia with a mass concentration of 2-3 g / L at a bath ratio of 1:6-8 for alkaline washing. Perform heating, holding and cooling treatments in sequence. Specifically, heat up to 70°C at a rate of 1°C / min. After exceeding 70°C, reduce the heating rate to 0.5°C / min and hold at 90°C for 20 minutes. Then cool down at a rate of 0.5°C / min. Drain the residual water after washing when the temperature drops to 70°C.

[0012] f) Multi-box low-temperature heat setting: The colored fabric is evenly immersed in the room temperature water bath of the setting machine, and after being squeezed, it is dried by a hot air tenter frame setting machine. The machine speed is 40-50 m / min, the fabric is overfed by 2-3% when feeding and 1% when output. The temperature of the drying oven of the setting machine is 90-113℃. The temperature of the first to eighth boxes is controlled at 90℃, 95℃, 100℃, 113℃, 113℃, 113℃, 113℃ and 100℃ respectively. After drying, the finished fabric is obtained.

[0013] The interwoven fabric produced according to the process of this invention is composed of three different raw materials. The production process combines the following steps: first, weaving with wool-type composite yarns; then, degumming pretreatment after weaving; low-temperature co-bath dyeing after degumming; alkali washing after dyeing; and multi-box low-temperature heat setting posttreatment after alkali washing.

[0014] The advantages and positive effects of this invention are as follows:

[0015] 1. In the processing of wool-type composite yarn, the use of extremely low tension ensures that the stretching deformation of the iterative polyester yarn-D and wool is small during the doubling process. The tension on the twisting machine is precisely controlled and the twist setting is optimized, so that the iterative polyester yarn-D can be evenly wrapped on the surface of the wool during twisting, thus resulting in high processing quality of composite yarn.

[0016] 2. During the degumming process of interwoven fabrics, select a neutral liquid protease with appropriate activity and mass concentration for silk and wool, and combine it with appropriate time and temperature for bio-enzymatic degumming to minimize damage to the wool components in the interwoven fabrics.

[0017] 3. Disperse dyes and wool reactive dyes are selected in the same dyeing vat, resulting in high efficiency in one-step dyeing. Disperse dyes are used to penetrate and dye the interwoven polyester filament-D at low temperature, while wool reactive dyes are used to dye the interwoven wool and silk fabrics at low temperature. The dyeing process starts at room temperature and involves heating, holding and cooling processes in sequence. The temperature change is reasonably controlled, which ensures good dyeing uniformity of the three different types of materials, especially with less staining between wool and silk fabrics and the interwoven polyester filament-D.

[0018] 4. The alkaline washing process involves heating, holding, and cooling in sequence. The temperature change is well controlled, which helps to thoroughly wash away the residual amount of undyed disperse dye and wool reactive dye. The residual liquor after dyeing is clear and can be recycled multiple times, which greatly saves water and reduces the burden on wastewater treatment. The alkaline washing process ensures color fastness, especially solving the color fastness problem of the iterative polyester filament-D.

[0019] 5. The oven of the setting machine is set with eight chambers and corresponding chamber temperatures. It adopts a wet and hot multi-chamber low temperature setting method with less than 5% overfeeding, which saves energy and reduces the environmental pollution in the factory caused by dye sublimation. It is also conducive to improving the color fastness and improving the hand feel of the finished fabric after setting, making it more wearable and skin-friendly.

Detailed Implementation Methods

[0020] The production process of interweaving wool-type composite yarn with silk includes the following steps:

[0021] S1. First combine the yarns, then twist them.

[0022] Using 60N / 1 (metric) wool and 50D / 72F iterative polyester yarn-D, these two raw materials are first combined on a doubling machine. The doubling tension of the wool is 1g, and the doubling tension of the iterative polyester yarn-D is 1g. Then, the iterative polyester yarn-D and wool are twisted together on a doubling machine. The tension on the machine is controlled at 15±0.5g, and low twist is used, i.e., twist degree is 5T and twist direction is S. After twisting, it is set in a steam oven at 90℃ for 60 minutes. After setting, it is formed into a bobbin to obtain wool-dell type composite yarn for use as the weft yarn for interlacing.

[0023] S2, interwoven latitude and longitude

[0024] The weaving is carried out on a multi-arm loom, using three sets of warp yarns, namely warp A, warp B and warp C, which are 2 / 20 / 22D 3T / S raw silk, 4 / 20 / 22D 24T / S raw silk and 4 / 20 / 22D 24T / Z raw silk respectively. The weft yarns are two sets, namely weft A is 40N / 1 wool and weft B is wool-dell type composite yarn from step a).

[0025] Weaving process conditions: the warp tension on the loom is 34CN~38CN, the warp density on the loom is 102 ends / cm, the weft density on the loom is 67 ends / cm, the weave structure adopts a twill variation structure, the width on the loom is 149.5cm, and the weaving process yields a cross-woven fabric with a width of 147.5cm on the loom.

[0026] S3, Pretreatment of interwoven fabric

[0027] To degumme the raw silk warp threads in the interwoven fabric, a scouring tank was filled with a liquid silk and wool protease with an activity of 16.0 KNPU / g and a mass concentration of 4 g / L. The interwoven fabric was immersed in the scouring tank for intermittent immersion degumming, with a degumming temperature of 45℃ and a degumming time of 90 min.

[0028] S4, dyeing of interwoven fabrics in the same bath

[0029] Disperse dyes and reactive dyes for wool are placed in the same dyeing vat, and the mixed fabric is placed in the vat and dyed under acidic conditions. During dyeing, the fabric is first dyed at room temperature and pressure, followed by sequential heating, holding, and cooling treatments. Specifically, the temperature is initially increased to 70°C at a rate of 1°C / min. Once it exceeds 70°C, the rate of increase is reduced to 0.5°C / min until it reaches 98–100°C, at which point it is held for 60–68 minutes. After holding, the temperature is then reduced at a rate of 0.5°C / min. When the temperature drops to 70°C, the residual dyeing water is discharged.

[0030] S5, Alkali washing of dyed fabrics

[0031] Alkaline washing is performed using sodium bicarbonate with a mass concentration of 0.2–0.25 g / L or industrial ammonia with a mass concentration of 2–3 g / L at a bath ratio of 1:6–8. During the alkaline washing process, heating, holding and cooling are performed sequentially. When heating, the temperature is first increased to 70°C at a rate of 1°C / min. After exceeding 70°C, the heating rate is increased to 0.5°C / min until 90°C is reached, at which point the temperature is held for 20 minutes. After holding, the temperature is then reduced to 0.5°C / min. The residual water after washing is discharged when the temperature drops to 70°C.

[0032] S6, Multi-box temperature low-temperature heat setting

[0033] After alkali washing, the dyed fabric is first uniformly immersed in the room temperature water bath of the stenter in roll form, and then squeezed by rollers to ensure that the dyed fabric is evenly wetted. The pressure of the rollers is 0.3 MPa. Then it enters the hot air tenter setter for drying. The hot setting process conditions are: the stenter speed is 40-50 m / min, the fabric feed overfeed is 2-3%, the fabric output overfeed is 1%, the air volume of the upper fan is 90-100%, the air volume of the lower fan is 95-99%, and the oven temperature of the stenter is 90-113℃. The temperature of the first to eighth chambers is controlled at 90℃, 95℃, 100℃, 113℃, 113℃, 113℃, and 100℃ respectively. After drying, the finished fabric is obtained with a width of 140cm, a warp density of 107.83 threads / cm, a weft density of 72 threads / cm, and a momme of 55m / m.

[0034] 2 / 20 / 22D 3T / S raw silk refers to 23dtex raw silk f2 S 300 twists / m; 4 / 20 / 22D 24T / S raw silk refers to 23dtex raw silk f4 S 2400 twists / m; 4 / 20 / 22D 24T / Z raw silk refers to 23dtex raw silk f4 Z 2400 twists / m.

[0035] The disperse dyes used were Suncron T-FW, and the reactive dyes for wool were Anofix.

[0036] The chemical structure of NEDDP (Iterative Polyester Filament-D) is as follows:

[0037]

Claims

1. A production process for a fabric interwoven with wool-dal composite yarn and silk, characterized by: The production process includes the following steps in sequence: a) First combine the yarns, then twist them. 60N / 1 wool and 50D / 72F iterative polyester filament-D are combined into yarns with a wool tension of 1g and an iterative polyester filament-D tension of 1g. The yarns are twisted on a machine with a tension of 15±0.5g, a twist of 5T, and a twist direction of S. During twisting, the iterative polyester filament-D is evenly wrapped around the surface of the wool. The yarns are then steamed and shaped, and finally formed into bobbins to obtain wool-dal type composite yarn. b) Latitude and longitude interweaving The weaving is carried out on a multi-arm loom. Warp A, warp B and warp C are 2 / 20 / 22D 3T / S raw silk, 4 / 20 / 22D 24T / S raw silk and 4 / 20 / 22D 24T / Z raw silk, respectively. Weft A is 40N / 1 wool and weft B is the wool-dell type composite yarn from step a). c) Pretreatment of interwoven fabrics The interwoven fabric was immersed in a scouring tank and the sericin of the raw silk warp threads was removed by intermittent immersion. The scouring tank contained a silk and wool liquid protease with an activity of 16.0 KNPU / g and a mass concentration of 4g / L. The degumming temperature and time were 45℃ and 90min, respectively. d) Dyeing interwoven fabrics in the same bath Disperse dyes and reactive dyes for wool are placed in the same dyeing vat. The mixed fabric is then placed in the vat and dyed under acidic conditions. First, the fabric is dyed at room temperature and pressure, and then the temperature is raised, held, and lowered in sequence. Specifically, the temperature is raised to 70°C at a rate of 1°C / min. After exceeding 70°C, the temperature is raised at a rate of 0.5°C / min and held at 98-100°C for 60-68 minutes. Then, the temperature is lowered at a rate of 0.5°C / min. When the temperature drops to 70°C, the residual dyeing water is discharged. e) Alkali washing of dyed fabrics Industrial ammonia water with a mass concentration of 2-3 g / L was used for alkaline washing at a bath ratio of 1:6-8. The process involved sequential heating, holding, and cooling. The temperature was increased to 70°C at a rate of 1°C / min. After exceeding 70°C, the rate of increase was reduced to 0.5°C / min, and the temperature was held at 90°C for 20 minutes. The temperature was then reduced to 0.5°C / min, and the residual water was discharged when the temperature dropped to 70°C. f) Multi-chamber low-temperature heat setting The colored fabric is evenly immersed in the room temperature water bath of the stenter, and after being squeezed, it is dried by a hot air tenter frame at a speed of 40-50 m / min. The fabric is overfed by 2-3% when feeding and 1% when exiting. The oven temperature of the stenter is 90-113℃. The temperatures of the first to eighth sections of the oven are controlled at 90℃, 95℃, 100℃, 113℃, 113℃, 113℃, 113℃ and 100℃ respectively. After drying, the finished fabric is obtained.

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