Sensitive skin refreshing repairing composition and preparation method and application thereof

Abstract

The invention discloses a refreshing and repairing composition for sensitive skin, a preparation method and an application thereof, and specifically belongs to the field of cosmetic preparations; the refreshing and repairing composition comprises components: maqui fruit extract, Kappaphycus sphaerocephala extract, quercetin-3-glucoside, Bulbophyllum cantonense extract and gellan gum; the composition can effectively resist damage from ultraviolet and blue light, play a role in light protection, and also has excellent skin barrier repair ability; the refreshing and repairing skin resident agent provided by the invention has good moisturizing and hydrating effects, and the skin resident agent has a high lactic acid stinging improvement rate and has a good skin repairing effect.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the field of cosmetic preparations, and in particular relates to a sensitive skin refreshing and repairing composition and a preparation method and application thereof. Background Art

[0002] With the changes in climate and environment and the transformation of human lifestyle, the proportion of sensitive skin continues to increase. In addition, factors such as laser beauty, fruit acid peels, environmental pollution, seasonal changes and improper maintenance cause damage to the skin barrier, resulting in skin itching, redness, swelling, heat and pain.

[0003] Repairing skin damage, especially oily sensitive skin (oily skin), has always been a technical challenge. Traditional repair products are mostly based on oil-soluble ingredients. Although these products are excellent in repair effects, their greasy texture often increases the burden on oily skin, easily leading to clogged pores, oily face and other problems, which is not conducive to maintaining healthy skin. On the other hand, although water-soluble repair products can reduce the burden on oily skin, their repair effects are often difficult to reach the level of oil-soluble products, and it is difficult to meet the needs of oily skin for efficient repair.

[0004] Therefore, there is an urgent need in the market for a skin care composition that can ensure freshness and non-greasyness while achieving efficient repair functions, so as to better meet the special needs of oily and sensitive skin. Summary of the invention

[0005] In view of the shortcomings of the prior art, the object of the present invention is to provide a composition that is refreshing and non-greasy and has efficient repairing function.

[0006] To achieve the above object, the present invention discloses the following technical solutions:

[0007] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a refreshing and repairing composition, comprising components: a maqui fruit extract, a Kappaphycus sphaerocephala extract, quercetin-3-glucoside, a Bulbophyllum cantonense extract, and gellan gum.

[0008] Preferably, the following components are included by weight:

[0009] 0.2-0.8 parts of maqui fruit extract;

[0010] 1.7-2.0 parts of Kappaphycus longifolia extract;

[0011] Quercetin-3-glucoside 0.005-0.01 part;

[0012] 0.03-0.07 parts of Bulbophyllum guangdongense extract;

[0013] 3-6 parts of gellan gum.

[0014] Further preferably, the following components are included by mass:

[0015]

[0016] Preferably, the method for preparing the Bulbophyllum guangdongense extract comprises the following steps:

[0017] (1) taking dried Guangdong Bulbophyllum, crushing it and soaking it in water for ≥12 h, at a soaking temperature of 55-65° C., with a material-water mass ratio of 1:(3-5), ultrasonically treating it for 15-20 min after soaking, filtering it to obtain a filter residue and a filtrate A, and using the filtrate A for later use;

[0018] (2) adding the filter residue of step (1) to an ethanol aqueous solution with a concentration of ≥75 v / v%, and reflux extraction at 70-80° C. for 3-4 times, each time for 0.5-1 h, to obtain filtrate B, and combining filtrate A with filtrate B to obtain a mixed filtrate;

[0019] (3) The mixed filtrate obtained in step (2) is concentrated under reduced pressure and dried to obtain the Bulbophyllum cantonense extract.

[0020] Further preferably, the mass ratio of the filter residue to the ethanol aqueous solution in step (2) is 1:(0.5-1).

[0021] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a refreshing and repairing skin retention agent, comprising the refreshing and repairing composition described in the first aspect.

[0022] Preferably, the refreshing and repairing composition is added to the skin retention agent in an amount of ≤1 wt%.

[0023] More preferably, it also contains flavors, cooling agents, preservatives, moisturizers, pH adjusters and solvents.

[0024] More preferably, the moisturizing agent is at least one of sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol, and 1,2-hexanediol;

[0025] The preservative is at least one of p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, and ethylhexylglycerin;

[0026] The pH regulator is at least one of arginine and sodium hydroxide;

[0027] The cooling agent is at least one of menthol, menthol and methyl salicylate;

[0028] The solvent is water.

[0029] In a third aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing the refreshing and repairing skin resident agent according to the second aspect, comprising the following steps:

[0030] (1) taking a certain amount of the refreshing and repairing composition, a preservative, a moisturizer and a solvent, dissolving, stirring, homogenizing and mixing at 65-70° C. to obtain a mixture;

[0031] (2) maintaining the temperature of the mixture, adding a cooling agent and a fragrance to the mixture, dissolving, stirring, and mixing, adding a pH adjusting agent, adjusting the pH value, and cooling the mixture to room temperature to obtain the refreshing and repairing skin resident agent.

[0032] In a fourth aspect, the present invention provides the use of the refreshing and repairing composition described in the first aspect in the preparation of a skin care product with soothing, repairing and moisturizing effects.

[0033] In the present invention:

[0034] The anthocyanins, polyphenols and vitamin C in the maqui fruit extract have significant antioxidant, anti-aging, whitening and brightening effects on the skin, and promote repair and regeneration. They help to resist free radical damage, slow down skin aging, improve uneven skin tone, enhance skin barrier function, and thus improve skin health.

[0035] Kappaphycus longifolia extract can not only effectively reduce melanin production, improve skin brightness, and achieve significant whitening effects, but also slow down the skin aging process through its powerful antioxidant ability, and stimulate telomerase expression to maintain cell health. At the same time, the extract can also repair damaged skin barriers, enhance moisturizing effects, form a protective film to lock in moisture, and keep the skin hydrated. Its mild and soothing properties help soothe sensitive skin and provide more effective care for the skin.

[0036] Quercetin-3-glucoside is a natural polyphenol compound widely found in plants. It has significant antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-proliferative biological activities. It can not only remove free radicals in the body and reduce oxidative stress damage, but also inhibit inflammatory responses by regulating inflammatory signaling pathways, and exhibits a strong soothing and repairing effect and promotes cell proliferation.

[0037] Guangdong Bulbophyllum extract is rich in antioxidant substances and has strong antioxidant capacity. The flavonoids and phenolic compounds contained in it have certain antioxidant capacity. Guangdong Bulbophyllum is rarely used in skin preparations. The present invention finds that Guangdong Bulbophyllum exhibits good photodamage protection effect in the process of compounding with Maqui fruit extract, which provides certain value for its application in cosmetics.

[0038] Gellan gum is a water-soluble anionic polysaccharide that can effectively lock moisture on the skin surface, forming a protective film to prevent moisture evaporation, and keep the skin hydrated for a long time. This is particularly effective in improving problems such as dry skin and dehydration. In addition, gellan gum is often used as a stabilizer for cosmetics and skin care products to enhance the viscosity and texture of the products and improve the stability of the products. The present invention finds that when the Kappaphycus sphaerocephala extract and gellan gum are used in combination, the active ingredients in the functional components can be more effectively loaded, forming a water-retaining film on the skin that continuously acts on the skin, thereby enhancing the efficacy of each component.

[0039] Beneficial effects of the present invention:

[0040] 1. The composition provided by the present invention can effectively resist damage from ultraviolet and blue light and play a role in light protection;

[0041] 2. The composition provided by the present invention can effectively promote the migration of skin keratinocytes and has excellent skin barrier repair ability;

[0042] 3. The refreshing and repairing skin retention agent provided by the present invention has a good moisturizing and hydrating effect. At the same time, the skin retention agent has a high improvement rate of lactic acid stinging and has a good skin repairing effect. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0043] The following will be combined with the embodiments of the present invention to clearly and completely describe the technical solutions in the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only part of the embodiments of the present invention, not all of the embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without creative work are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0044] The technical solution of the present invention is further described in detail below in conjunction with specific embodiments. It should be understood that the following embodiments are only used to explain the present invention, and are not used to limit the present invention.

[0045] In the present invention:

[0046]

[0047] Preparation of Bulbophyllum guangdongense Extract

[0048] Step (1), taking the whole plant of dried Bulbophyllum guangdongense and crushing it with a high-speed universal grinder and then passing it through a 60-100 mesh sieve to obtain Bulbophyllum guangdongense powder;

[0049] Step (2) soaking the Bulbophyllum powder in water for ≥12 h at a temperature of 55-65° C. with a material-water mass ratio of 1:(3-5), subjecting the powder to ultrasonic treatment for 15-20 min, filtering to obtain a filter residue and a filtrate A, wherein the filtrate A is reserved;

[0050] Step (3), adding the filter residue of step (2) to a 75 v / v% ethanol aqueous solution, the mass ratio of the filter residue to the ethanol aqueous solution being 1:(0.5-1), reflux extraction at 70-80° C. for 3-4 times, each time for 0.5-1 h, to obtain filtrate B, and combining filtrate A with filtrate B to obtain a mixed filtrate;

[0051] Step (4), concentrating and drying the mixed filtrate obtained in step (3) under reduced pressure to obtain the Guangdong Bulbophyllum extract.

[0052] Preparation of maqui fruit extract

[0053] Step (1), selecting mature, disease-free and insect-free maqui fruit, washing them thoroughly with clean water to remove dust and impurities on the surface, adding water to the washed maqui fruit to break the wall, filtering to obtain filtrate C and filter residue, and using filtrate C for later use;

[0054] Step (2), mixing the filter residue with 75 v / v% ethanol aqueous solution, with the mass ratio of filtrate to ethanol aqueous solution being 1:(0.7-1), reflux extraction at a temperature of 70-80° C. for 2-3 times, each time for 0.7-1 h, and filtering to obtain filtrate D.

[0055] Step (3), combining filtrate C and filtrate D, and concentrating the mixture using a rotary evaporator to a water content of ≤20%.

[0056] Step (4), freeze-drying the concentrated mixed solution at low pressure, and grinding it through a 100-mesh sieve to obtain a powdered maqui fruit extract.

[0057] Preparation of refreshing and repairing composition

[0058] The raw materials are weighed according to the mass parts in Table 1, and stirred evenly to obtain a refreshing repairing composition.

[0059] Table 1 Refreshing repair composition raw materials

[0060] Raw material name Composition 1 Composition 2 Composition 3 Composition 4 Composition 5 Macchia Fruit Extract 0.200 0.400 0.500 0.800 - Bulbophyllum guangdongense extract 0.070 0.050 0.040 0.030 0.040 Quercetin-3-glucoside 0.010 0.008 0.006 0.005 0.006 Kappaphycus sphaerocephala extract 1.700 1.800 1.900 2.000 1.900 Gellan Gum 3.000 4.000 6.000 6.000 6.000 Raw material name Composition 6 Composition 7 Composition 8 Composition 9 / Macchia Fruit Extract 0.500 0.500 0.500 0.500 / Bulbophyllum guangdongense extract - 0.040 0.040 0.040 / Quercetin-3-glucoside 0.006 - 0.006 0.006 / Kappaphycus sphaerocephala extract 1.900 1.900 - 1.900 / Gellan Gum 6.000 6.000 6.000 - /

[0061] Note: “-” in the table means no addition.

[0062] Performance Testing

[0063] Light protection test:

[0064] This test is to test the cell survival rate of refreshing repair compositions 1 to 9. The survival rate of human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCat) after ultraviolet and blue light irradiation can reflect the protective effect of the substance against ultraviolet and blue light to a certain extent.

[0065] The test method is as follows:

[0066] First, the cell-safe concentration of the composition was tested by MTT cytotoxicity assay.

[0067] According to 2×10 4 The immortalized keratinocyte suspension was inoculated into a 96-well plate at a density of 100 μL / well and placed at 37°C with a volume fraction of 5% CO. 2 The cells were incubated in an incubator for 24 hours. The complete culture medium was used as the diluent to dilute the compositions 1-9 to the working concentration and then added to the cells, 100 μL / well. The positive control group and the negative control group were 50 v / v% ethanol aqueous solution, placed at 37°C and 5% CO 2 The cells of the compositions 1-9 and the positive control group were irradiated with UV for 20 minutes and blue light for 3 hours respectively, and the negative control group was not irradiated with light, and then placed in the incubator for 24 hours, and finally the MTT test was used to detect the changes in cell viability.

[0068] The calculation formula is as follows:

[0069] Cell viability percentage (%) = average OD value of sample wells / average OD value of negative control group × 100%

[0070] The test results are shown in Table 2:

[0071] Table 2 Light protection test results

[0072]

[0073] Result analysis:

[0074] According to the results in Table 2, compared with the positive control group, the cells treated with compositions 1-4 had significantly increased HaCat cell activity after ultraviolet and blue light irradiation, which indicates that the composition of the present invention can effectively resist the damage of ultraviolet and blue light and play a role in light protection; compared with compositions 5-9, composition 3 has a UV and blue light protection performance similar to that of the positive control group in the absence of the maqui fruit extract, indicating that the maqui fruit extract plays a key role in light protection, and the remaining components, Guangdong Bulbophyllum extract, quercetin-3-glucoside and Kappaphycus longicornis extract, have little protection for HaCat cell activity in the absence of the maqui fruit extract; and in the absence of Guangdong Bulbophyllum extract, the light protection performance is significantly reduced, indicating that Guangdong Bulbophyllum has a synergistic effect on light protection performance in the overall formula.

[0075] Experiment on promoting the healing of skin keratinocyte scratches:

[0076] Experimental purpose: The effect of the test sample on the migration of skin keratinocytes. The cell scratch test is a simple and quick method to measure the migration and repair ability of cells, similar to the in vitro wound healing model. Detecting the cell migration rate can reflect the barrier repair ability of cells. A large migration rate means that the barrier repair ability of the test sample is good, and a small migration rate means that the barrier repair ability of the test sample is poor.

[0077] Samples to be tested: Take a certain amount of composition 1-9 and dilute it with physiological saline to a certain concentration (concentration gradient is 1v / v%, 0.5v / v%, 0.1v / v%). Blank control: physiological saline. The concentrations of each sample to be tested are set to 1v / v%, 0.5v / v%, 0.1v / v%, and three parallel controls are set for each concentration. The results of the three parallel controls are averaged.

[0078] Experimental protocol: HaCat cells were cultured at 4×10 4 / well were inoculated in the cell insert and cultured in a cell culture incubator. When the cell density was about 80%, the liquid in the cell insert and the 6-well plate was removed, and 2 ml of each test sample with different concentrations (concentration gradient was 1, 0.5, and 0.1 v / v%) was added, and they were cultured together for 24 h. Pictures were taken at 0 h and 24 h, and the cell area and corresponding migration rate were calculated using ImageJ.

[0079] The calculation formula for the results is: mobility = (0h area - 24h area) / 0h area, relative mobility = sample mobility - blank group mobility.

[0080] The test results are shown in Table 3.

[0081] Table 3 Effects of compositions 1-9 on the migration rate of skin keratinocytes

[0082]

[0083]

[0084] Result analysis:

[0085] Compositions 1-9 can promote the migration of skin keratinocytes at concentrations of 0.1 v / v%, 0.5 v / v%, and 1 v / v%. Compositions 1-4 increase the cell migration rate as the concentration of the composition increases, showing concentration dependence; among them, compositions 3 and 4 have a greater increase in the migration area of ​​keratinocytes at concentrations of 1 v / v% and 0.5 v / v%, and the relative migration rate reaches more than 20%, which is a better effect;

[0086] Compared with compositions 5-8, it can be determined that when any one of the formulas is missing, the skin barrier repair performance is affected. When quercetin-3-glucoside is missing, the cell migration rate is greatly affected. When gellan gum is missing, there is no effect on the cell migration rate.

[0087] Application Example Preparation

[0088] Weigh the raw materials according to the mass percentage in Table 4;

[0089] Step (1), heating water to 65-70° C., taking a certain amount of the refreshing and repairing composition and adding it into the water to completely dissolve it, then taking a preservative and a moisturizer and dissolving and stirring and mixing them uniformly while maintaining the temperature and rotating at 200 r / min to obtain a mixture;

[0090] Step (2), maintaining the temperature of the mixture, adding the cooling agent and the essence to the mixture, dissolving, stirring, and mixing evenly, adding a pH adjusting agent to adjust the pH value to 5-6, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the refreshing and repairing skin resident agent.

[0091] Table 4 Raw materials of skin retention agent

[0092]

[0093] Note: “-” in the table means not added.

[0094] Moisturizing effect test:

[0095] 25 volunteers (aged 45-55 years old, 25 females) were selected and randomly divided into 5 groups, with 5 people in each group.

[0096] Usage: After the subject cleans the facial skin, wipe it dry, and evenly apply 3g of Application Example 1-5 on the facial skin with hands.

[0097] Skin moisture content test method: The moisture content of the left face was measured in an environment with a test temperature of 25°C and a relative humidity of 50%, and the subject was asked to remain calm. Two 2cm×2cm square experimental areas were marked on the left face as test areas. The facial skin moisture content before and 10 hours after using the composition was measured using a CM825 tester provided by German CK Company. The test environment temperature was 25°C and the relative humidity was 50%. The results were recorded and the average value was taken. The results are shown in Table 5.

[0098] Table 5 Moisturizing effect test results

[0099] Test Group Skin moisture content at 0h of use / % Skin moisture content after 10 hours of use / % Skin moisture increase percentage / % Application Example 1 16.30 35.60 118.40 Application Example 2 15.90 36.40 128.93 Application Example 3 16.10 41.20 155.90 Application Example 4 15.80 26.70 90.51 Application Example 5 15.70 23.80 83.44

[0100] Result analysis:

[0101] The test results in the above table show that after continuous use for 10 hours, the skin retention agent of the present invention significantly increases the moisture content of the skin, and has a good moisturizing and hydrating effect; among them, the product of Application Example 3 makes the skin moisture increase rate of the tester reach 155%. The comparison between Application Examples 4 and 5 and Application Example 3 shows that the Kappaphycus longifolia extract and gellan gum have a good compound effect in moisturizing effect, and the combination of the two can form a water-retaining film on the skin. When Kappaphycus longifolia or gellan gum is used alone, the moisturizing effect of the product is significantly reduced.

[0102] Repair performance test

[0103] Volunteer screening: 30 people with sensitive skin (25-45 years old) were selected as volunteers for the repair performance test (every 5 volunteers used the same test sample) and divided into 6 groups.

[0104] Test steps: The test was conducted on the nasolabial folds of volunteers. 50ul of 10% lactic acid solution was dropped on a single-layer filter paper with a diameter of 0.8cm. The subjects were asked about the tingling sensation at 0.5min and 2min respectively. The pain was scored according to the 4-point system (0 for no tingling, 1 for mild tingling, 2 for moderate tingling, and 3 for severe tingling). If the subject reached 3 points at any time during the test, the test was terminated.

[0105] Sample use: Volunteers used application examples 1-5 on their entire face, and volunteers in the blank control group used deionized water as the sample. Volunteers applied the product twice a day, morning and evening, about 1 mL, for 2 consecutive weeks, and repeated the above test steps after two weeks of use.

[0106] The lactic acid stinging scores of the volunteers before use and after 2 weeks of use were recorded, and the lactic acid stinging improvement rate of the volunteers was calculated. Wherein, lactic acid stinging improvement rate (%) = (average lactic acid stinging score before use - average lactic acid stinging score after 2 weeks of use) / average lactic acid stinging score before use × 100%; average lactic acid stinging score = average stinging score at 0.5 min + average stinging score at 2 min.

[0107] The higher the improvement rate of lactic acid stinging, the better the repair effect of the sample.

[0108] Table 6 Lactic acid stinging improvement rate

[0109] Test samples Lactic acid stinging improvement rate (%) Blank control group -4.00 Application Example 1 64.29 Application Example 2 65.38 Application Example 3 81.48 Application Example 4 55.17 Application Example 5 51.85

[0110] Result analysis:

[0111] The test results in Table 6 show that the skin resident agents of Application Examples 1-3 have a high improvement rate of lactic acid stinging and have a good repair effect. Among them, the repair effect of Application Example 3 is better than that of other application examples. Compared with Application Examples 4 and 5, Application Example 3 forms a protective film on the skin after compounding the Kappaphycus longifolia extract and gellan gum, which can carry active substances such as Maqi fruit extract, Guangdong Bulbophyllum extract and quercetin-3-glucoside to act on the skin continuously. The lack of any component of the Kappaphycus longifolia extract and gellan gum weakens the effect of the active substances on the skin and reduces the repair effect of the product.

[0112] Finally, it should be noted that the above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention and is not intended to limit the present invention. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the aforementioned embodiments, those skilled in the art can still modify the technical solutions described in the aforementioned embodiments or replace some of the technical features therein by equivalents. Any modification, equivalent replacement, improvement, etc. made within the spirit and principle of the present invention shall be included in the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A refreshing and repairing composition, characterized in that: By mass, it includes the following components: The preparation method of the Bulbophyllum guangdongense extract comprises the following steps: S1-1. Take dried Guangdong Bulbus Allii Glehniali and crush it into powder and soak it in water for ≥12h, the soaking temperature is 55-65℃, the material-water mass ratio is 1:(3-5), and the soaking is ultrasonically treated for 15-20min, and the residue and filtrate A are filtered and the filtrate A is set aside; S1-2. Add the residue from step S1-1 to an ethanol aqueous solution with a concentration of ≥75 v / v%, reflux and extract at 70-80 ° C for 3-4 times, each time for 0.5-1 h, to obtain filtrate B, and combine filtrate A with filtrate B to obtain a mixed filtrate; S1-3. The mixed filtrate obtained in step S1-2 was concentrated under reduced pressure and dried to obtain the Guangdong Bulbophyllum extract; The mass ratio of the filter residue to the ethanol aqueous solution in step S1-2 is 1:(0.5-1); The preparation method of the maqui fruit extract comprises the following steps: S2-1. Select mature, pest-free Maqi fruit, wash thoroughly with water to remove dust and impurities on the surface, add water to the washed Maqi fruit to break the wall, filter to obtain filtrate C, filter residue, filtrate C standby; S2-2. The residue was mixed with a 75 v / v% ethanol aqueous solution, the mass ratio of the filtrate to the ethanol aqueous solution was 1: (0.7-1), refluxed at a temperature of 70-80 ° C for 2-3 times, each time for 0.7-1h, and the filtrate was filtered to obtain a filtrate D; S2-3. Combine filtrate C and filtrate D, and concentrate the mixture to a water content of ≤20% using a rotary evaporator; S2-4. The concentrated mixed solution was freeze-dried at low pressure and ground through a 100-mesh sieve to obtain a powdered maqui fruit extract.

2. The refreshing and repairing composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: By mass, it includes the following components:

3. A refreshing and repairing skin resident agent, characterized in that: A refreshing and repairing composition comprising the refreshing and repairing composition according to claim 1 or 2; The amount of the refreshing and repairing composition added to the skin retention agent is ≤1wt%.

4. The refreshing and repairing skin resident agent according to claim 3, characterized in that: It also contains flavors, cooling agents, preservatives, moisturizers, pH adjusters and solvents.

5. The refreshing and repairing skin resident agent according to claim 4, characterized in that: The moisturizing agent is at least one of sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol, and 1,2-hexanediol; The preservative is at least one of p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, and ethylhexylglycerin; The pH regulator is at least one of arginine and sodium hydroxide; The cooling agent is at least one of menthol, menthol and methyl salicylate; The solvent is water.

6. The method for preparing the refreshing and repairing skin resident agent according to any one of claims 3 to 5, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: (1) taking a certain amount of the refreshing and repairing composition, a preservative, a moisturizer and a solvent, dissolving, stirring, homogenizing and mixing at 65-70° C. to obtain a mixture; (2) maintaining the temperature of the mixture, adding a cooling agent and a fragrance to the mixture, dissolving, stirring, and mixing, adding a pH adjusting agent, adjusting the pH value, and cooling the mixture to room temperature to obtain the refreshing and repairing skin resident agent.

7. Use of the refreshing and repairing composition according to claim 1 or 2 in the preparation of skin care products with soothing, repairing and moisturizing effects.

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