Dyeing method for consistent piece dyeing color yield of wool fabrics with different warp and weft yarn qualities

Abstract

The invention discloses a dyeing method for consistent piece dyeing color yield of wool fabrics with different warp and weft yarn qualities. The dyeing method comprises the steps of wetting, acid pickling, acid neutralization, level dyeing, slow heating, cooling and washing and the like. According to the method, the to-be-dyed grey cloth of the wool with different qualities of the warp and weft yarns is subjected to strong acid treatment, strong acid has a certain destructive effect on the surface layer of the wool, after the wool with different qualities of the warp and weft yarns is treated by strong acid for a certain time, the fiber surface is subjected to certain damage, and the chemical properties of the fiber surface basically tend to be consistent; the chemical reaction performance of the dye to the wool fiber is basically close, and the warp and weft color difference caused by the difference of the warp and weft quality or surface chemical performance to the dye reaction is avoided; strong acid treatment is matched with a slow heating procedure, so that the strength of wool subjected to acid treatment is basically not influenced, the dye absorption uniformity of warp and weft yarns during dyeing is ensured, and the dye absorption and the dyeing fastness meet the requirements by controlling proper heat preservation time during dyeing.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of textiles, in particular to a dyeing method for wool fabrics with different warp and weft yarn qualities with consistent piece dyeing color yield. Background Art

[0002] Wool is an excellent protein fiber and one of the important raw materials in the textile industry. Wool fiber has good elasticity, strong moisture absorption, good warmth retention, is not easy to stain, and has a soft luster. It is the preferred raw material for making high-end clothing. The dyeing of wool woven products is divided into strip dyeing, yarn dyeing and piece dyeing. Piece dyeing can better meet the market demand, especially women's clothing, because of its fast response and short delivery time, and can better meet the pursuit of fashion, differentiation and diversification of women's clothing.

[0003] The general production process of piece-dyed varieties: spinning white yarn-weaving-dyeing-finishing-finished products. Due to market uncertainty, customers place orders in varying quantities, and sometimes the quantity of single-quality white yarn cannot meet customer requirements. In order to save costs and meet the requirements of fast delivery, and to improve the utilization rate of yarns, designers will design yarns of different quality raw materials in warp and weft together according to the inventory of yarns, and weave them for piece dyeing. However, the warp and weft yarns of different quality raw materials are dyed after weaving. Due to the difference in the quality of the warp and weft yarn raw materials and the chemical reaction of the dyes, the warp and weft yarns will also have obvious differences in color yield when dyed using conventional dyeing methods, resulting in a warp and weft surface effect with different colors, which is not a pure solid color and does not meet the color requirements.

[0004] It can be seen that providing a dyeing method to improve the color yield consistency of warp and weft yarns of different qualities after piece dyeing is of great significance for piece dyeing production. Summary of the invention

[0005] In view of the above-mentioned deficiencies of the existing dyeing technology, the present invention provides a dyeing method for improving the consistency of color yield of warp and weft yarns of different qualities of wool after piece dyeing. The dyeing method, by changing and optimizing the pre-dyeing treatment process, adopts a conventional auxiliary agent pre-treatment followed by acid treatment, neutralization after acid treatment, and then dyeing with a dye. This method solves the problem of inconsistent color yield of warp and weft yarns of different qualities of wool after piece dyeing, improves the comprehensive utilization rate of the yarn, saves production costs, shortens product delivery time, and meets customer needs.

[0006] In order to achieve the above object, the present invention adopts the following technical solutions:

[0007] A dyeing method for wool fabrics with different warp and weft yarn qualities to achieve uniform color yield, comprising the following steps:

[0008] S1, Wetting:

[0009] Start dyeing the fabric at 40℃, add 0.5% of Pingpingjia (the percentage of the weight of the fabric to be dyed) into the vat, run for 5-10min, increase the temperature to 80℃ at 3℃ / min, treat for 20min, cool down and rinse to fully wet the fabric;

[0010] S2, pickling:

[0011] Add 30% sulfuric acid into a 30°C tank, with a bath ratio of 1:15, 30 ml / L sulfuric acid, and a pH value of 2-3. Treat the wetted fabric for 40 minutes, and then rinse after the treatment.

[0012] S3, acid neutralization:

[0013] Add 3% soda ash to the tank for acid neutralization, raise the temperature to 60°C, treat the acid-washed fabric for 20 minutes, rinse it clean, and measure the pH value at 7±0.5 (pH test paper adheres to the wet fabric surface);

[0014] S4, uniform staining:

[0015] Raise the temperature to 40°C, add 0.6% defoamer (accounting for the percentage of the weight of the fabric to be dyed), 1% leveling agent (accounting for the percentage of the weight of the fabric to be dyed), and 2% acetic acid (accounting for the percentage of the weight of the fabric to be dyed) in sequence, operate for 5-10 minutes, and then add dye;

[0016] S5, slow heating:

[0017] The dye vat system obtained in S4 was heated to 98°C±1°C at a rate of 0.5°C / min and kept at that temperature for 60 minutes. The temperature was slowly raised to slow down the reaction between the dye and the fiber, which was beneficial to level dyeing. The temperature was kept at 98°C to facilitate further absorption of the dye, ensuring that the color accuracy and dyeing fastness met the requirements.

[0018] S6, cooling and flushing:

[0019] First, slowly cool down and rinse to 60℃ at 1℃ / min, then cool down and rinse to 40℃ / min at 2℃ / min, then rinse directly with cold water, and leave the machine after rinsing clean; after dyeing and leaving the machine, it is dried, raised, sheared, calendered and steamed to become the finished product.

[0020] Preferably, the fabric to be dyed is a spun tweed grey cloth made of 50S New Zealand wool spun with white warp yarn (8 / 2 yarn) and white weft yarn (8 / 2 yarn) spun with 56S New Zealand wool, and the warp yarn and weft yarn are interwoven to verify whether the color yield of the warp and weft yarns is consistent after piece dyeing.

[0021] Preferably, the defoamer is Sixin 991550 composite defoamer, which is a dilutable defoaming concentrate and is used in conventional surfactants and polymer foaming systems.

[0022] Preferably, the leveling agent is wool leveling agent Goon306, which is an acidic leveling agent.

[0023] Preferably, the dyes are Acid Brilliant Orange GS and Pra Yellow GN 400%, wherein the application concentration of Acid Brilliant Orange GS is 1.65% (percentage of the weight of the fabric to be dyed), and the application concentration of Pra Yellow GN 400% is 0.205% (percentage of the weight of the fabric to be dyed).

[0024] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0025] 1. In the present invention, the white grey cloth with different qualities of warp and weft wool to be dyed is treated with strong acid, and the strong acid has a certain destructive effect on the surface layer of the wool. After the wool with different qualities of warp and weft yarns is treated with strong acid for a certain period of time, the fiber surface is damaged to a certain extent, the chemical properties of the fiber surface are basically consistent, and the chemical reaction properties of the dye to the wool fiber are basically close, thereby avoiding the warp and weft color difference caused by the difference in reaction to the dye due to the different qualities of the warp and weft yarns and the difference in surface chemical properties when dyeing with conventional methods.

[0026] 2. In the present invention, by optimizing the process of acid concentration and treatment temperature during strong acid treatment and utilizing a slow heating process, it is ensured that the strength of wool after acid treatment is substantially unaffected, the uniformity of dye absorption by warp and weft yarns during dyeing is ensured, and by controlling an appropriate heat preservation time during dyeing, it is ensured that the dye absorption and dyeing fastness meet the requirements.

[0027] 3. In the present invention, by using warp and weft yarns of different qualities in combination, the comprehensive utilization rate of the yarn is improved, the production cost is saved, and the production cycle is shortened. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0028] The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention are described clearly and completely below. Obviously, the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, rather than all the embodiments.

[0029] Embodiment 1:

[0030] The raw material is woolen tweed: the warp white yarn (8 / 2 yarn) is spun from 50S New Zealand wool, and the stock weft white yarn (8 / 2 yarn) is spun from 56S New Zealand wool. The warp yarn and weft yarn are interwoven, the weight of the grey cloth is 830g / m, the weight of the finished product is 838g / m, the width of the finished product is 152cm, the quantity of the finished product is 600 meters, and the color of the finished product is bright orange.

[0031] The process is carried out through the following steps:

[0032] 1. First wash and shrink the grey cloth.

[0033] 2. Put the washed and shrunk white cloth into the dyeing vat for dyeing.

[0034] 3. Start dyeing at 40℃, add 0.5% Pingpingjia into the vat, run for 5-10min, increase the temperature to 80℃ at 3℃ / min, treat for 20min, cool down and rinse, and make the fabric to be dyed fully wetted by pre-treatment.

[0035] 4. Add 30% sulfuric acid at 30℃, bath ratio 1:15, 30ml / L sulfuric acid, pH value controlled at 2-3, treat for 40min, and rinse after treatment.

[0036] 5. Add 3% soda ash for acid neutralization, heat to 60°C, treat for 20 minutes, rinse clean, and measure the pH value at 7±0.5.

[0037] 6. Raise the temperature to 40℃, add defoamer 0.6%, leveling agent 1%, acetic acid 2% in sequence, run for 5-10 minutes, and then add dye. The dye is: weak acid brilliant orange GS 1.65%. Pra yellow GN 400% 0.205%.

[0038] 7. Raise the temperature to 98℃±1℃ at 0.5℃ / min and keep it warm for 60 minutes. Slowly increase the temperature to slow down the reaction between the dye and the fiber, which is conducive to uniform dyeing. Keep it warm at 98℃ to facilitate further absorption of the dye and ensure that the color accuracy and dyeing fastness meet the requirements.

[0039] 8. Cool down and rinse. First, slowly cool down and rinse at 1℃ / min to 60℃, then cool down and rinse at 2℃ / min to 40℃ / min, and then rinse directly with cold water. After rinsing, remove from the machine.

[0040] 9. After dyeing, the wool is dried, raised, sheared, calendered and steamed to become the finished product.

[0041] 10. Inspection of finished products shows that the colors in the warp and weft directions are basically consistent, the colors are pure, and meet the quality requirements.

[0042] The technical indicators of the final product prepared in this embodiment are as follows:

[0043] Width: 153cm; Weight per meter: 835g / m; Ingredients: 100% wool,

[0044] Pilling: Level 3;

[0045] Breaking strength: 560N in warp direction, 590N in weft direction;

[0046] Degree of seam slippage: warp ≤6mm, weft ≤6mm;

[0047] Steaming size change rate: warp +1.8, weft +1.8;

[0048] Water fastness: color change level 4-5, staining level 4;

[0049] Acid perspiration color fastness: color change level 4-5, staining level 4;

[0050] Alkali perspiration color fastness: color change level 4-5, staining level 4;

[0051] Color fastness to ironing: color change level 4-5, cotton staining level 4;

[0052] Color fastness to dry rubbing: Grade 4-5;

[0053] Color fastness to wet rubbing: Grade 4;

[0054] Color fastness to washing: color change level 4-5, staining level 4-5;

[0055] In summary, the dyeing method for achieving color consistency of warp and weft yarns of different qualities of wool after piece dyeing provided by the present invention has the warp and weft yarns having basically consistent colors, the surface color of the wool is pure, various physical indicators and color fastness meet the GB / T 26378-2011 standard, and the first-class product rate is 99.5%.

[0056] In order to verify the effects of the strong acid treatment and the slow heating process of the present invention on the difference in warp and weft color yield and the fabric strength, the following comparative test was set up:

[0057] 1) Influence of acid concentration:

[0058] That is, the sulfuric acid concentration used in Example 1 is changed (30% in Example 1), and a series of properties are obtained as shown in Table 1:

[0059] Table 1. Effect of acid concentration on fabric dyeing uniformity and strength

[0060]

[0061] It should be noted that the longitude / latitude color difference grades in Table 1 are evaluated visually, that is, the gray sample card for color change evaluation according to GB250 / ISO105-A02 is used for color comparison. There are five pairs of gray standards representing 9 grades, representing 9 degrees of color difference. The color difference grades are divided into 5, 4-5, 4, 3-4, 3, 2-3, 2, 1-2, and 1, among which grade 5 means no color difference.

[0062] As shown in Table 1, if the acid concentration is too high in the strong acid treatment, the fabric strength will be low, which may be due to serious damage to the scale structure on the surface of the wool fiber; while if the acid concentration is too low, the scale structure will not be sufficiently destroyed, affecting the impregnation and coloring of the dye.

[0063] 2) Influence of acid treatment temperature:

[0064] That is, the strong acid treatment temperature used in Example 1 was changed (30° C. in Example 1), and a series of properties were obtained as shown in Table 2 below:

[0065] Table 2. Effect of acid treatment temperature on fabric dyeing uniformity and strength

[0066]

[0067] The increase in temperature will greatly cause sulfuric acid oxidation, especially when it exceeds 60°C, which will cause a decrease in the color fastness of the fabric. This shows that the temperature of sulfuric acid treatment should be controlled at 30°C. If it is lower than 30°C, it will be unfavorable for the loosening and shedding of the scale structure.

[0068] 3) Heating rate:

[0069] That is, the heating rate of the slow heating used in Example 1 is changed (0.5°C / min heating to 98°C±1°C in Example 1), and a series of properties are obtained as shown in Table 3 below:

[0070] Table 3. Effect of heating rate on fabric dyeing uniformity and strength

[0071]

[0072] It can be seen from Table 3 that heating too quickly will not only cause a slight decrease in strength, but also cause excessive color difference in the warp / weft lines; while heating below 0.5℃ / min has little effect on fabric strength and color difference, so 0.5℃ / min is selected for production efficiency considerations.

[0073] The above description is only a preferred specific implementation manner of the present invention, but the protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereto. Any technician familiar with the technical field can make equivalent replacements or changes according to the technical scheme and inventive concept of the present invention within the technical scope disclosed by the present invention, which should be covered by the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A dyeing method for wool fabrics with different warp and weft yarn qualities to achieve uniform color yield, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: S1, Wetting: Start dyeing the fabric at 40℃, add 0.5% of Pingpingjia into the vat, run for 5-10min, raise the temperature to 80℃ at 3℃ / min, treat for 20min, cool down and rinse to fully wet the fabric; S2, pickling: Add 30% sulfuric acid into a 30°C tank, with a bath ratio of 1:15, 30 ml / L sulfuric acid, and a pH value of 2-3. Treat the wetted fabric for 40 minutes, and then rinse after the treatment. S3, acid neutralization: Add 3% soda ash to the tank for acid neutralization, raise the temperature to 60°C, treat the acid-washed fabric for 20 minutes, rinse it, and measure the pH value at 7±0.5; S4, uniform staining: Heat up to 40℃, add 0.6% defoamer, 1% leveling agent, 2% acetic acid in sequence, run for 5-10 minutes, then add dye; S5, slow heating: The dyeing vat system obtained in S4 was heated to 98°C±1°C at 0.5°C / min and kept at this temperature for 60 min; S6, cooling and flushing: First, slowly cool down and rinse to 60℃ at 1℃ / min, then cool down and rinse to 40℃ / min at 2℃ / min, then rinse directly with cold water, and leave the machine after rinsing clean; after dyeing and leaving the machine, it is dried, raised, sheared, calendered and steamed to become the finished product.

2. The dyeing method for wool fabrics with different warp and weft yarn qualities and uniform color yield according to claim 1, characterized in that: The fabric to be dyed is a spun tweed grey cloth made of 50S New Zealand wool spun warp white yarn (8 / 2 yarn) and weft white yarn (8 / 2 yarn) spun from 56S New Zealand wool, and the warp yarn and the weft yarn are interwoven.

3. The dyeing method for wool fabrics with different warp and weft yarn qualities and uniform color yield according to claim 1, characterized in that: The defoamer is Sixin 991550 composite defoamer.

4. The dyeing method for wool fabrics with different warp and weft yarn qualities and uniform color yield according to claim 1, characterized in that: The leveling agent is wool leveling agent Goon306.

5. The dyeing method for wool fabrics with different warp and weft yarn qualities and uniform color yield according to claim 1, characterized in that: The dyes are weak acid brilliant orange GS and Pra Yellow GN 400%, wherein the application concentration of weak acid brilliant orange GS is 1.65%, and the application concentration of Pra Yellow GN 400% is 0.205%.

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