False-twist processed yarn, and composite false-twist processed yarn, twisted yarn, woven knitted fabric and clothing comprising same

Abstract

The purpose of the present invention is to provide: a false-twist processed yarn which has a texture such as a dry feeling and resilience, a high texture feeling, suppressed glare, a high feeling of combing with a natural appearance, and a functionality such as extensibility; and a composite false-twist processed yarn, a twisted yarn, a woven knitted fabric, and a garment, each of which includes the false-twist processed yarn. This false-twisted yarn contains a polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and a polyester-based thermoplastic resin B, and satisfies the following requirements. (1) The difference (MA-MB) between the weight-average molecular weight MA of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the weight-average molecular weight MB of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B is 2000-15000. And (2) the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B are joined in an eccentric manner. And (3) the apparent thickness ratio (Dthick / Dthin) of the false-twisted yarn is from 1.05 to 3.00. And (4) the surface of the false-twisted yarn has slits in the axial direction of the fiber and cracks in the direction substantially orthogonal to the axial direction of the fiber.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a false twisted yarn and a composite false twisted yarn, twisted yarn, woven knitted fabric and clothing containing the same. Background Art

[0002] Conventionally, there has been a demand for a wool-like fabric having both softness, a dry feel, a feel such as resilience, a natural appearance, and functional properties such as stretchability that are also found in wool materials.

[0003] As wool-like fabrics, there have been proposed fibers having thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction of single fibers constituting multifilaments formed by joining two polyester polymers with different melt viscosities, as disclosed in Patent Document 1, and woven knitted fabrics using the fibers. In addition, Patent Document 2 proposes a polyester composite false twist yarn formed of a polyester yarn having latent crimping properties and another polyester yarn. Summary of the invention

[0004] Problems to be solved by the invention

[0005] As one of the methods for obtaining a natural combed-like appearance and stretchability, a method of stretching a composite fiber having a crimp structure that is visible in wool is considered. However, although the technology disclosed in Patent Document 1 has crimp and a thick and thin spot, the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber constituting the multifilament is fixed, so there is a problem that a natural appearance and a dry feeling cannot be obtained.

[0006] In addition, although the technology disclosed in Patent Document 2 performs false twisting, the multifilament adopts a densely packed structure in the false twisting process, so the surface of the single filament becomes smooth and a natural appearance cannot be obtained. In other words, it is impossible to simultaneously satisfy the hand feeling such as dryness and resilience, the functional properties such as high combing sensitivity and stretchability such as a natural appearance.

[0007] The present invention is made in view of the above situation, and its purpose is to provide a functional false twist textured yarn that exhibits a dry feel, a resilient feel, a high texture, and glare is suppressed, and has a natural appearance with high combed-like sensibility and stretchability, as well as a composite false twist textured yarn, twisted yarn, woven knitted fabrics and clothing containing the same.

[0008] Means for solving problems

[0009] The present invention has the following configurations.

[0010] [1] A false twist textured yarn comprising a polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and a polyester-based thermoplastic resin B, wherein the false twist textured yarn satisfies the following requirements.

[0011] (1) The weight average molecular weight M of the polyester thermoplastic resin A A The weight average molecular weight M of the polyester thermoplastic resin B is B The difference (M A -M B ) is 2000~15000.

[0012] (2) The polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B are joined in an eccentric manner.

[0013] (3) The apparent thickness ratio (D thick / D thin ) is 1.05~3.00.

[0014] (4) The surface of the false twisted yarn has slits in the fiber axis direction and cracks in a direction substantially orthogonal to the fiber axis direction.

[0015] [2] The false twist textured yarn according to [1], wherein the single yarn fineness is 3.0 dtex or more.

[0016] [3] The false twist textured yarn according to [1] or [2], which has a recovery rate for stretch (CR) of 25.0% or more.

[0017] [4] A composite false-twist textured yarn comprising the false-twist textured yarn according to any one of [1] to [3] and at least one other yarn.

[0018] [5] The composite false-twist textured yarn according to [4], wherein the other yarn is a yarn with developed crimp.

[0019] [6] A twisted yarn comprising the false twist textured yarn described in any one of [1] to [3] or the composite false twist textured yarn described in [4] or [5], wherein the twist coefficient of the twisted yarn is 1200 to 6000.

[0020] [7] A woven knitted fabric comprising, in at least a portion, any one of the false twist textured yarn described in any one of [1] to [3], the composite false twist textured yarn described in [4] or [5], and the twisted yarn described in [6].

[0021] [8] Clothing comprising the woven fabric described in [7] in at least a part.

[0022] Effects of the Invention

[0023] According to the present invention, a functional false twist yarn having a dry feel, a rebound feel, a high texture, a natural appearance, a combed-like high sensitivity and stretchability with reduced glare can be obtained. In particular, the composite false twist yarn, twisted yarn, woven knitted fabric, and clothing using the false twist yarn of the present invention are suitable for use in outerwear such as jackets, suits, and bottoms for women and men. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0024] [ Figure 1 ] Figure 1 This is a cross-sectional view showing an example of the existence state of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B in the false twist textured yarn of the present invention.

[0025] [ Figure 2 ] Figure 2 This is a cross-sectional view showing another example of the existence form of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B in the false twist textured yarn of the present invention.

[0026] [ Figure 3 ] Figure 3 This is a perspective view showing one embodiment of the surface of the false twisted yarn of the present invention.

[0027] [ Figure 4 ] Figure 4 This is a schematic diagram of a false twisting apparatus used when producing the false twisted yarn of the present invention.

[0028] [ Figure 5 ] Figure 5 This is a schematic diagram of a final distribution plate according to Example 1 of the false twist textured yarn of the present invention.

[0029] [ Figure 6 ] Figure 6 This is a schematic diagram of a final distribution plate according to Comparative Example 8 of the false twist textured yarn of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0030] The false twist textured yarn of the present invention comprises a polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and a polyester-based thermoplastic resin B, and satisfies the following requirements.

[0031] (1) The weight average molecular weight M of the polyester thermoplastic resin A A The weight average molecular weight M of the polyester thermoplastic resin B is B The difference (M A -M B ) is 2000~15000.

[0032] (2) The polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B are joined in an eccentric manner.

[0033] (3) The apparent thickness ratio (D thick / D thin ) is 1.05~3.00.

[0034] (4) The surface of the false twisted yarn has slits in the fiber axis direction and cracks in a direction substantially orthogonal to the fiber axis direction.

[0035] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail, but the present invention is not limited in any way to the scope of the following description unless exceeding the gist of the present invention.

[0036] [Polyester thermoplastic resin A, polyester thermoplastic resin B]

[0037] The false twisted yarn of the present invention is obtained by false twisting conjugate fibers containing polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B. The false twisting allows each single yarn to have a random crimp form, thereby obtaining a dry feel, stretchability, and resilience.

[0038] Therefore, the false twist textured yarn of the present invention contains the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B.

[0039] As specific examples of the polyester resin used in the false twisted yarn of the present invention, preferably, a polyethylene terephthalate resin whose main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate, a polypropylene terephthalate resin whose main repeating unit is propylene terephthalate, or a polybutylene terephthalate resin whose main repeating unit is butylene terephthalate. It is further preferred that both the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B have ethylene terephthalate as the main repeating unit. Here, "the main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate" means that the proportion of the structure derived from ethylene terephthalate contained in the repeating unit is 60 mol% or more. The same applies below.

[0040] The above-mentioned polyethylene terephthalate resin, polypropylene terephthalate resin, and polybutylene terephthalate resin may have a small amount of copolymer components (usually less than 30 mol% (relative to 100 mol% of the total amount of the acid component and the glycol component)) as required. If the copolymer components of the polyester thermoplastic resin A are 8 mol% or less, the strength is maintained even after alkali reduction, so it is easy to obtain flexibility, which is preferred. Furthermore, by setting the copolymer components to 8 mol% or less, the molecular orientation in the false twisted yarn can be maintained even after dyeing, so the dimensional stability is improved. In addition, it is preferred that the copolymer components of the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B are both 5 mol% or less, and it is further preferred that the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B are both polyethylene terephthalate resins that do not contain copolymer components. By using polyethylene terephthalate containing no copolymer component, the boiling water shrinkage of the false twisted yarn can be easily reduced, so that crimp is easily expressed in woven knitted fabrics, stretchability and resilience are easily obtained, and fiber-to-fiber recycling is also facilitated.

[0041] In the present invention, the boiling water shrinkage of the false twisted yarn after false twisting and before crack formation (hereinafter referred to as false twisted yarn before crack formation) is preferably 10.0% or less. When the boiling water shrinkage is 10.0% or less, the fibers are not restrained in the woven knitted fabric, and the stretchability is further improved.

[0042] It should be noted that, within the scope of not impairing the purpose of the present invention, the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B in the present invention may contain one or more micropore formers, cationic dyeable agents, anti-coloring agents, heat stabilizers, flame retardants, fluorescent whitening agents, matting agents, colorants, antistatic agents, hygroscopic agents, antibacterial agents, inorganic fine particles, etc. as needed.

[0043] In the false twisted yarn of the present invention, the weight average molecular weight M of the polyester thermoplastic resin A is A The weight average molecular weight M of the polyester thermoplastic resin B B The difference (M A -M B The weight average molecular weight difference (hereinafter sometimes referred to as "weight average molecular weight difference") is 2000 to 15000. If the weight average molecular weight difference is less than 2000, the stretchability of the false twisted yarn becomes low and the glare suppression effect becomes insufficient. The weight average molecular weight difference is preferably 5000 or more. On the other hand, if the weight average molecular weight difference is greater than 15000, the strength of the original yarn decreases and spinning becomes unstable. The weight average molecular weight difference is preferably 13000 or less.

[0044] In addition, the weight average molecular weight M of the polyester thermoplastic resin A is AThe value range is preferably 20000 to 28000, and the weight average molecular weight M of the polyester thermoplastic resin B is B The value range of is preferably 12000 to 20000. Within the above ranges, the functionality and durability of the false twisted yarn are improved, and the process stability when spinning the conjugate fiber as the raw material of the false twisted yarn is also good.

[0045] In addition, the weight average molecular weight in the present invention is measured by the method described in the Examples.

[0046] [False twisted yarn]

[0047] In the false twist textured yarn of the present invention, the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B are joined in an eccentric manner. By doing so, the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B form a coil-like structure due to the difference in shrinkage, so that the stretchability of the obtained woven fabric is improved. Here, "joined in an eccentric manner" means that in a cross section of the false twist textured yarn that is approximately perpendicular to the fiber axis, the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B exist in a state of being joined without being substantially separated, and the positions of their respective centers of gravity are offset. As an example of a structure joined in an eccentric manner, there can be mentioned a parallel type, an eccentric core-sheath type, Figure 1 The cross-sectional shape of the false twisted yarn is such that a portion of the polyester thermoplastic resin A (1) is exposed from the polyester thermoplastic resin B (2).

[0048] At this time, when the false twisted yarn is of a parallel type, it is necessary to form a slit parallel to the fiber axis direction in the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B at the time of the conjugate fiber before the false twisting.

[0049] When the false twisted yarn is an eccentric core-sheath type, Figure 2 As shown, the cross-sectional structure is a shape in which the polyester thermoplastic resin B (2) covers the polyester thermoplastic resin A (1).

[0050] Figure 1 The false twisted yarn having the cross-sectional structure shown can be obtained, for example, by exposing a portion of the polyester thermoplastic resin A by alkali reduction after obtaining an eccentric core-sheath type conjugate fiber. In this case, by using the polyester thermoplastic resins having the above-mentioned difference in weight average molecular weight to form the eccentric core-sheath type conjugate fiber, fine concavities and convexities can be stably formed at the bonding interface between the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B, and by exposing a portion of the polyester thermoplastic resin A, the concavities and convexities are exposed to form slits described later.

[0051] In the case where the composite fiber is an eccentric core-sheath type, the minimum value t(3) of the thickness t(3) of the polyester thermoplastic resin B(2) covering the polyester thermoplastic resin A(1) ismin The ratio (t min / D) to the fiber diameter D of the composite fiber is preferably 0.01 to 0.10. By making (t min / D) 0.01 or more, the fabric quality is improved or the slit formation property is improved in terms of suppressing fluff generation. (t min / D) is preferably 0.02 or more. On the other hand, by making (t min / D) 0.10 or less, the stretchability is further improved due to sufficient crimp manifestation power. (t min / D) is preferably 0.08 or less.

[0052] In addition, when the composite fiber is an eccentric core-sheath type, in the cross section, the aforementioned thickness t satisfies 1.00t min ≤t≤1.05t min The length C of the part where the region overlapping the contour line of the aforementioned composite fiber t is preferably C t ≥0.33C with respect to the entire circumference C of the composite fiber. By operating in this way, compared with the conventional eccentric core-sheath composite fiber having the same ratio of the area (S A ) of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A to the area (S B ) of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B in the cross section, the centroids of the regions where each resin exists are separated, so that the obtained crimped fiber can form finer spirals and can exhibit better crimp. More preferably, it is set to C t ≥0.40C. In addition, in principle, C t <C, but preferably C t ≤0.70C.

[0053] In addition, the apparent thickness ratio (D thick / D thin ) of the false-twist textured yarn of the present invention is 1.05 to 3.00. In the present invention, the so-called apparent thickness ratio (D thick / D thin ) refers to the ratio of the average value of the width ratio in the direction orthogonal to the fiber axis of the false-twist textured yarn bundle under a load of 0.11 cN / dtex to the fiber diameter (D thick ) of the relatively thick part and the fiber diameter (D thin ) of the relatively thin part compared to the average value. If the apparent thickness ratio (D thick / D thin ) of the false-twist textured yarn of the present invention is less than 1.05, a mixed-color appearance cannot be obtained when making a woven knitted fabric. (D thick / D thin ) is preferably 1.25 or more, and more preferably 1.40 or more. In addition, if (D thick / D thin) exceeds 3.00, the appearance deviates from the natural appearance and is not a preferred appearance. thick / D thin ) is preferably less than 2.00.

[0054] It should be noted that specific methods for measuring the thickness t, fiber diameter D, aspect ratio, circumference C, etc. are as described in the Examples.

[0055] Furthermore, the false twisted yarn of the present invention has a slit in the single fiber axial direction and a crack in a direction approximately orthogonal to the single fiber axial direction on the surface of the single fiber. By having projections and recesses in the single fiber axial direction and in a direction approximately orthogonal thereto, light from all angles can be scattered, and a natural appearance with suppressed glare can be achieved. In the present invention, cracks refer to projections and recesses in a direction approximately orthogonal to the single fiber axial direction of the false twisted yarn, and the depth of the cracks is preferably 0.5 to 5.0 μm. In addition, in the present invention, slits refer to projections and recesses formed in the single fiber axial direction of the false twisted yarn, and the depth of the slits is preferably 0.1 to 1.5 μm. When the depth of the crack is 0.5 μm or more, or the depth of the slit is 0.1 μm or more, the glare suppression effect is further improved. In addition, by making the depth of the slit less than 5.0 μm, or making the depth of the slit less than 1.5 μm, the wear resistance is improved.

[0056] For the same reason, the width of the crack is preferably 1.0 to 30.0 μm, and the width of the slit is preferably 0.1 to 10.0 μm. In addition, the length of the slit is preferably 100 μm or more.

[0057] Here, the depth of the crack or slit is the depth measured at the deepest part of each. Figure 3 As schematically illustrated, it is a direction along the circumference of a single fiber of the false twisted yarn 4, and is a direction within ±80° with respect to the fiber axis. Figure 3 This is a perspective view showing an embodiment of the surface of the false twisted yarn of the present invention. In the surface of the single fiber of the false twisted yarn 4, there are slits 6 in the single fiber axis direction and cracks 5 in a direction substantially orthogonal to the single fiber axis direction. The length of the crack is not particularly limited. Generally, the length of the polyester thermoplastic resin A of the false twisted yarn before the crack is formed (S A ) and the area of ​​the polyester thermoplastic resin B (S B ) A :S BAlthough the ratio varies, when it is approximately 50:50 (for example, about 40 to 60:60 to 40), cracks are easily formed in an area approximately 1 / 2 of the length of the circumference of the single fiber of the false twist yarn. The method of approximately 1 / 2 of the length of the circumference of the single fiber of the false twist yarn is preferred because the balance between the slit formation and the slit formation is good, and glare can be further suppressed when the woven knitted fabric is made. Here, the so-called "approximately 1 / 2 of the length of the circumference" mentioned above can be formed by one crack in the area approximately 1 / 2 of the length of the circumference of the single fiber, or it can be formed by dispersing two or more cracks in the area approximately 1 / 2 of the length of the circumference of the single fiber. In addition, it does not need to be strictly 1 / 2 of the length of the circumference, as long as it is approximately 1 / 2 of the circle.

[0058] The frequency of crack formation is preferably a dispersed form in which 10 or less cracks are formed over substantially the entire area in the circumferential direction of the area where no slits are formed, and more preferably cracks are formed at a frequency in which such a dispersed form exists within 1 cm in the fiber axis direction.

[0059] In addition, the fiber axis of the false twisted yarn is Figure 3 As schematically illustrated, it is the length direction of the false twist yarn 4. The length of the false twist yarn in the circumferential direction forming the slit is not particularly limited, but when it is about 1 / 2 of the length of the outer circumference of the single fiber of the false twist yarn, the balance with the crack formation is good, and glare can be further suppressed when it is made into a woven knitted fabric, so it is preferred. In addition, it is particularly preferred that either a crack or a slit is formed in the single fiber constituting the false twist yarn. In this case, it is preferred as follows Figure 3 As shown, there is a mode in which a crack region is formed in about half of the outer circumference and a slit region is formed in about half of the outer circumference.

[0060] In the present invention, the depth and length of each of cracks and slits are measured by observing with an electron microscope, and the average value of 10 cracks or slits in one false twisted yarn is used. The specific measurement method is described in the Examples.

[0061] As a method for forming cracks on the surface of the false twisted yarn, there is a method of alkali-reducing the false twisted yarn after pin-stretching within a range not exceeding the natural stretch ratio of the composite fiber, etc. By setting the stretch ratio as described above, orientation differences of the molecules constituting the composite fiber are generated in the longitudinal direction of the fiber, and the non-oriented part is preferentially dissolved by the alkali, so that the reduction rate is different in the longitudinal direction of the fiber, and unevenness, that is, cracks, are formed in a direction substantially orthogonal to the fiber axis.

[0062] As a method for forming slits on the surface of the false twisted yarn, there is a method of changing the shape of the ejection hole from a normal circular shape to a multilobal cross-section shape having 8 or more protrusions when obtaining a composite fiber, thereby forming projections and depressions in the fiber axis direction.

[0063] In addition, in the false twisted yarn obtained from the composite fiber of the eccentric core sheath structure, slits can also be formed by alkali reduction or the like. Here, the method for forming slits based on the composite fiber of the eccentric core sheath structure is described in detail. The polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B with the molecular weight difference are spun using the distribution plate described later, thereby forming unevenness at the bonding interface of the eccentric core sheath structure due to the difference in viscosity of each thermoplastic resin. Furthermore, in the alkali reduction of the woven knitted fabric using the false twisted yarn, the polyester thermoplastic resin B is preferentially reduced, so that the polyester thermoplastic resin A is exposed, thereby exposing the unevenness as the bonding interface, forming unevenness (slits) in the fiber axis direction.

[0064] The slits are preferably formed more stably by using the composite fiber of the eccentric core-sheath structure as a base, and a deep slit can be formed.

[0065] In the present invention, by satisfying the above requirements (1) to (4) simultaneously, the two functional characteristics of the conventional false twisted yarn, namely, the dry feel and the feel of the yarn such as the rebound, and the natural appearance such as the combed-like high sensitivity and the stretchability, can be solved at one stroke.

[0066] The cross-sectional shape of the false twist yarn is not particularly limited, and may be circular, elliptical, triangular or other cross-sectional shapes. A circular cross-sectional shape is more preferred because the conjugate fiber for obtaining the false twist yarn can be stably spun.

[0067] In the present invention, the area of ​​the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A in the cross section of the false-twisted yarn before crack formation (S A ) and the area of ​​the polyester thermoplastic resin B (S B ) A :S B When the ratio is preferably 70:30 to 30:70, and more preferably 60:40 to 40:60, the physical properties are improved. A ≥S B .

[0068] The single yarn fineness of the false twisted yarn in the present invention is preferably 3.0 dtex or more. In addition, as an upper limit, it is preferably 5.0 dtex or less. By setting it to this range, the dry feeling when the woven knitted fabric is made becomes higher, and a touch closer to combing can be obtained. In the present invention, the single yarn fineness is a value calculated by total fineness (dtex) / number of filaments.

[0069] In addition, for the false twist yarn of the present invention, it is preferred that the Crimp Rigidity (CR) measured from the decomposed yarn of the woven knitted fabric is 25.0% or more. If the CR is 25.0% or more, the curl is further manifested in the woven knitted fabric, and better stretchability is obtained. The CR is more preferably 30.0% or more. In addition, the CR is preferably 50.0% or less. By making the CR 50.0% or more, the expansion of the woven knitted fabric is suppressed from becoming too strong, and appropriate rebound resilience is easily obtained. For CR, including the case of using the composite false twist yarn described later, it can be measured by the method described in the examples. In addition, as a method for making CR within the above range, it is possible to increase the stretch ratio during false twist processing to increase the orientation difference between the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B.

[0070] [Compound false twisted yarn]

[0071] The composite false twist textured yarn of the present invention comprises the false twist textured yarn of the present invention and at least one other yarn. By doing so, the texture of the woven knitted fabric becomes better.

[0072] As other yarns, there is no particular limitation as long as they are different from the false twisted yarn of the present invention, and they are preferably formed of polyester resins from the perspective of having good mechanical properties and excellent dimensional stability to humidity and temperature changes. As specific examples of polyester resins, polyethylene terephthalate resins whose main repeating units are ethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate resins whose main repeating units are propylene terephthalate, or polybutylene terephthalate resins whose main repeating units are butylene terephthalate are preferred. It should be noted that the above-mentioned polyethylene terephthalate resin or polybutylene terephthalate resin may have a small amount (usually less than 30 mol% (relative to 100 mol% of the total of the acid component and the diol component)) of copolymer components as required. Furthermore, from the viewpoint of soft texture and fiber-to-fiber recycling, it is more preferable that all the slivers constituting the composite false twist textured yarn are made of a polyethylene terephthalate resin containing no copolymer component.

[0073] In addition, the boiling water shrinkage of the other yarns is preferably 10.0% or less. By setting the boiling water shrinkage to 10.0% or less, the false twisted yarn and other yarns are less likely to be restrained in the woven knitted fabric, and the stretchability is further improved.

[0074] Furthermore, the other yarns are preferably yarns with visible curls. Here, the so-called "visible curled yarn" refers to yarns with a recovery rate of expansion of 5.0% or more, which means that two polymers with different shrinkage properties are compounded into parallel or eccentric core-sheath type yarns, and the curls are mechanically given by false twisting. In this case, the CR of the other yarns is preferably 10.0 to 20.0% higher than the CR of the false twisted yarn. By setting the CR in the above range, the false twisted yarn and the curls with different winding diameters are mixed in the composite false twisted yarn, so that a dry feeling closer to combing can be obtained without hindering the stretchability. It should be noted that the other yarns as the raw yarn before compounding are preferably latent curled yarns. After compounding, the latent curled yarn undergoes dyeing and other processes to become the visible curled yarn constituting the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention.

[0075] [Twisted yarn]

[0076] The twisted yarn of the present invention includes any one of the false twisted yarn and the composite false twisted yarn, and the twist coefficient is 1200 to 6000. By using the false twisted yarn or the composite false twisted yarn as the twisted yarn and setting the twist coefficient to the above range, the stretchability is maintained and the process passability of the weaving process is improved. The twist coefficient is preferably 1500 to 4500. Here, the twist coefficient can be calculated by the following formula.

[0077] Twist coefficient (K) = number of twists (T / m) × √ (fineness (dtex) × 0.9).

[0078] The twisting direction is preferably the same as the twisting direction of the false twist. When the twisting direction is the same as the false twisting direction, the resilience is further improved.

[0079] [Woven knitted fabrics]

[0080] The woven knitted fabric of the present invention contains the false twist textured yarn, composite false twist textured yarn or any one of the twisted yarns of the present invention in at least a part. The usage ratio of these is preferably 30% by mass or more, more preferably 40% by mass or more, relative to the mass of the woven knitted fabric. It is also a preferred embodiment that all the fibers constituting the woven knitted fabric are formed of any one of the false twist textured yarn, composite false twist textured yarn or twisted yarn of the present invention.

[0081] The fabric structure of the woven knitted fabric of the present invention is a woven fabric or a knitted fabric. As the woven fabric structure, it can be selected from plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and their modified structures according to the feel and design. Furthermore, it can also be a multi-layer fabric structure such as a double-layer fabric. As the knitted fabric structure, it can be selected according to the desired feel and design. As for weft knitting, it can be plain knitting, rib knitting, double reverse knitting, tuck knitting, float knitting, lace mesh knitting, and their modified structures, etc., and as for warp knitting, it can be single-bar warp plain knitting, single-bar warp satin knitting, single-bar warp velvet knitting, single-bar warp knitting tuck knitting, double-bar warp plain knitting, warp satin knitting, warp velvet knitting, warp velvet-warp plain knitting, double-bar warp satin knitting, warp oblique plain knitting, and their modified structures, etc. Among these, relatively simple woven knitting structures such as plain weave or its variations, twill weave or its variations, and double bar warp satin weave are more preferred in order to have a fine combed look and a natural appearance with depth.

[0082] [Clothing]

[0083] The clothing of the present invention includes the woven knitted fabric of the present invention in at least a part. By doing so, functional clothing having the dry feeling, the hand feeling such as rebound elasticity, the combed-like high sensibility and stretchability such as the natural appearance of the false twisted yarn, the composite false twisted yarn or the twisted yarn or the woven knitted fabric of the present invention can be produced. The clothing of the present invention refers to articles in the field of outerwear worn as women's and men's clothing, sportswear, and outdoor clothing, especially jackets, suits, bottoms, and parts thereof, such as articles including the front body, back body, collar, sleeves, chest pockets, side pockets, underwear, socks, hats, etc.

[0084] [False twisted yarn, and method for producing woven knitted fabric]

[0085] Next, an example of a preferred method for producing the false twisted yarn and the woven knitted fabric of the present invention will be described.

[0086] The false twist textured yarn of the present invention can be produced by false twisting a composite fiber obtained by winding an undrawn yarn or a semi-drawn yarn of a blown thermoplastic resin and then performing alkali reduction. In particular, when the composite fiber obtained in the step of forming a semi-drawn yarn and winding and then stretching is used for false twisting, the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B have a difference in orientation, so that the composite fiber has excellent stretchability when it is made into a woven knitted fabric and dyed. In addition, the polyester resin A is highly oriented, so that the embrittlement resistance caused by alkali reduction is excellent, which is preferred.

[0087] [Spinning process]

[0088] In the method for producing a false twisted yarn of the present invention, first, the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B are melted separately, ejected from a spinneret, and preferably spun at a spinning speed of 1400 m / min to 3800 m / min to form an undrawn yarn or a semi-drawn yarn and wind it up. In the present invention, it is preferred to set the spinning speed to 2500 m / min to 3800 m / min, and form a semi-drawn yarn and wind it up.

[0089] In the present invention, it is preferred that the false twisted yarn of the present invention is made of semi-drawn yarn because it has excellent abrasion resistance after alkali weight reduction. Semi-drawn yarns are more crystallized than undrawn yarns, so local fiber cutting caused by alkali weight reduction can be suppressed.

[0090] The spinning temperature is relative to the melting point (T mA 、T mB ) are preferably between +20°C and +50°C. By setting (T mA 、T mB )+20°C or more, thereby preventing the molten polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B from solidifying and clogging in the spinning machine piping. mA 、T mB )+50°C or less, thereby suppressing thermal degradation of the molten polyester thermoplastic resin A and the molten polyester thermoplastic resin B.

[0091] The spinneret used in the method for producing the false twist textured yarn of the present invention may have any known internal structure as long as it can perform spinning with stable quality and operation.

[0092] Here, when the cross section of the false twisted yarn of the present invention is a parallel type, by making the spinneret shape concavoconvex, slits in a direction substantially parallel to the fiber axis direction can be obtained on the surface of the polyester thermoplastic resin A.

[0093] Furthermore, by forming the cross section of the composite fiber into an eccentric core-sheath type, it is also possible to suppress bending of the ejection line caused by the flow rate difference between the two thermoplastic resins ejected from the spinneret, which is a problem in the production of the composite fiber before false twisting.

[0094] In order to form the composite fiber into an eccentric core-sheath type cross section, it is preferable to precisely control the minimum value t of the thickness t of the polyester thermoplastic resin B covering the polyester thermoplastic resin A as described above. min , and the thickness t in the cross section of the composite fiber satisfies 1.00t min ≤t≤1.05t min The length C of the portion where the region overlaps with the circumference of the composite fiber t, it is suitable to use a spinning method using a distribution plate as exemplified in Japanese Patent Publication No. 2011-174215, Japanese Patent Publication No. 2011-208313, and Japanese Patent Publication No. 2012-136804. By using such a distribution plate, t min The obtained eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber can be directly made into eccentric core-sheath type false twisted yarn, or it can be made into Figure 1 False twisted yarn with a cross-sectional structure as shown.

[0095] Made Figure 1 In the case of a false twisted yarn having a cross-sectional structure as shown in FIG. 1 , if the difference in weight average molecular weight between the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B is within the range of the present invention, projections and depressions parallel to the fiber axis are formed at the composite interface of the composite fiber due to the difference in viscosity. Therefore, by subjecting the eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber to false twist processing and then subjecting it to an alkali treatment, a portion of the polyester thermoplastic resin B covering the polyester thermoplastic resin A is removed, exposing a portion of the polyester thermoplastic resin A, thereby stably obtaining Figure 3 A slit parallel to the fiber axis as shown.

[0096] In addition, if the composite fiber t min If the value is too small, the effect of suppressing the bending of the ejection line cannot be fully obtained, resulting in the formation of fuzz in the false twisted yarn, which may reduce the process passability and strength. min Even if the curl of the false twisted yarn becomes too large, the curl of the false twisted yarn can be expressed within an appropriate range, thereby improving the stretchability of the woven knitted fabric. In the method using such a distribution plate, the cross-sectional shape of the monofilament can be controlled by arranging the distribution holes provided in the final distribution plate at the most downstream among the distribution plates composed of multiple sheets.

[0097] [False twisting process]

[0098] Next, the yarn produced through the spinning step is stretched at a ratio not exceeding the natural stretch ratio of the yarn, using Figure 4 The false twisting device as exemplified performs rod stretching, and then performs false twisting while further performing heater stretching to form a false twisted yarn. Through this process, a desired false twisted yarn can be obtained. Figure 4This is a schematic diagram of a false twisting device used in manufacturing the false twisted yarn of the present invention. That is, the composite fiber 7 is heated and stretched by a heat rod 9 between the first supply roller 8 and the second supply roller 10, and is further false twisted by a heater 11 between the second supply roller 10 and the third supply roller 13 and a twisting machine 12. When other yarns 16 are mixed, they are supplied from a fourth supply roller 17 to the heater 11 together with the composite fiber 7 to be false twisted, and become a false twisted yarn or a composite false twisted yarn 14, which is wound by a winding section 15.

[0099] For example, by performing rod stretching at a yarn speed of 100 to 800 m / min, the rod stretching ratio described below, and a hot rod temperature of 70 to 120°C on the semi-drawn yarn obtained by composite spinning at a spinning speed of 2500 m / min to 3800 m / min, and then performing false twisting at a heater stretching ratio described below and a heater temperature of 140 to 200°C (an example of conditions: the semi-drawn yarn obtained by composite spinning at a spinning speed of 2600 m / min is rod stretched at a yarn speed of 400 m / min, a rod stretching ratio of 1.4 times, and a hot rod temperature of 80°C, and then performing false twisting at a heater stretching ratio of 1.20 times and a heater temperature of 170°C), a false twisted yarn with an apparent thickness ratio of 1.05 to 3.00 can be obtained. The rod stretching is performed in the range of the lower limit of the natural stretch ratio × 1.2 times to the upper limit × 0.8 times, and the false twisting is performed in such a way that the total stretching ratio represented by the rod stretching ratio × the heater stretching ratio becomes the upper limit of the natural stretch ratio × 1.1 times, thereby obtaining the desired thickness ratio, and cracks and slits can be formed on the surface of the false twisted yarn by alkali treatment. In addition, by making the total stretching ratio greater than the upper limit of the natural stretching ratio × 1.3 times, the orientation difference between the polyester-based thermoplastic resins constituting the composite fiber becomes large, and stretchability is easily obtained, which is preferred. In addition, if the false twisting is performed with a total stretching ratio lower than the upper limit of the natural stretching ratio × 1.1 times, the processing stability is poor, cracks are preferably manifested by alkali treatment, and slits are difficult to form.

[0100] In addition, the false twisted yarn can be compounded with other yarns before or after winding by blending, etc. to form a composite false twisted yarn. There is no particular limitation on the compounding method, and common methods such as interlaced blending, taslan blending, etc. are also possible.

[0101] [Formation process of woven knitted fabric]

[0102] The false twisted yarn or composite false twisted yarn obtained by the false twisting process is used to make a woven fabric or a knitted fabric. In the case of a woven fabric, it is woven using an air jet loom, a water jet loom, a rapier loom, a projectile loom, a shuttle loom, etc. In the case of a knitted fabric, it is knitted using a weft knitting machine such as a flat knitting machine, a fully fashioned flat knitting machine, a circular knitting machine, a computerized jacquard knitting machine, a sock knitting machine, a circular knitting machine, a tricot knitting machine, a raschel warp knitting machine, an air jet loom, and a Milanese knitting machine.

[0103] [Alkali reduction process]

[0104] Furthermore, the woven knitted fabric obtained in the above-mentioned woven knitted fabric forming step is subjected to alkali reduction processing in such a way that the alkali reduction rate becomes 5% or more, more preferably 10 to 25%. As described above, the false twisted yarn formed by rod stretching within the range not exceeding the natural stretching ratio of the composite fiber with an eccentric structure has an orientation difference in the fiber length direction, and the reduction rate of the alkali is different in the fiber length direction. Therefore, the alkali reduction processing forms unevenness, that is, cracks, in a direction roughly orthogonal to the fiber axis. In addition, the Figure 1 In the case of a false twisted yarn having a structure of , as described above, a portion of the polyester thermoplastic resin B of the eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber is removed to expose a portion of the polyester thermoplastic resin A, thereby forming a slit. At this time, by controlling the exposed state of the polyester thermoplastic resin A, the slit depth can be easily controlled.

[0105] In the alkali reduction step, an intermittent reduction process (eg, liquid flow reduction) is preferred in order to easily obtain resilience.

[0106] [Dyeing process]

[0107] Furthermore, as required, conventional refining, relaxation treatment, intermediate heat setting, dyeing processing, and final heat setting (in the present invention, these processes are sometimes collectively referred to as "dyeing process") can be carried out before and / or after the above-mentioned alkali reduction process, or at the same time. In order to obtain the stretchability and resilience of the present invention, the feeding and tension management of each process are appropriately carried out. For example, it is ideal that in the axial direction of the composite fiber of the present invention, in a roll-to-roll device that can control the feeding amount, the liquid amount and flow rate are controlled so that the overfeed is within 10%, and in an intermittent liquid flow dyeing machine, the liquid amount and flow rate are controlled so that excessive tension is not applied in the traveling direction. Although dyeing depends on the dyeability of the thermoplastic resin constituting the false twisted yarn or other composite yarns, it is carried out using disperse dyes or cationic dyes in a dyeing solution preferably at 110 to 130°C.

[0108] The false twist yarn in the woven knitted fabric using the false twist yarn obtained by false twisting the composite fiber mentioned above usually develops structure and curls through the heat history in the above-mentioned dyeing process or alkali reduction process. In addition, slits are formed in the fiber axis direction and cracks are formed in the direction substantially orthogonal to the fiber axis direction through the alkali reduction process. When a latent curled yarn is used as another yarn in the above-mentioned composite false twist yarn, the latent curled yarn also develops structure through the heat history in the above-mentioned dyeing process or alkali reduction process and becomes an apparent curled yarn.

[0109] Example

[0110] Next, the present invention will be specifically described based on examples. However, the present invention is not limited to these examples. It should be noted that in the measurement of various physical properties, the measurement was performed based on the above-mentioned method unless otherwise specified.

[0111] [Measurement method]

[0112] (1) Determination of weight average molecular weight of thermoplastic resin

[0113] The weight average molecular weight of the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B used in the conjugate fiber was measured using "TOSO GMHHR-H(S)HT" manufactured by Tosoh Corporation as a gel permeation chromatography (GPC) testing machine.

[0114] Detector: Differential refractive index detector RI (Waters-2414, sensitivity 128x)

[0115] Column: Shodex HFIP806M manufactured by Showa Denko K.K. (2 connected)

[0116] Solvent: Tetrahydrofuran (25 cm 3 )

[0117] Flow rate: 1.0mL / min

[0118] Column temperature: 30°C

[0119] Injection volume: 0.10mL

[0120] Standard material: polystyrene.

[0121] (2) Measurement of fiber diameter D, thickness t of polyester thermoplastic resin B covering polyester thermoplastic resin A, and fiber circumference C

[0122] The multifilament formed by the composite fiber is embedded with an embedding agent such as epoxy resin at 10 locations in a row at intervals of 1 cm in the fiber axis direction, and the obtained substance is used as a sample. The image of each sample is taken with a transmission electron microscope (TEM) at a magnification that can observe more than 10 fibers. At this time, metal staining is implemented to clarify the contrast of the joint between the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B. As image analysis software, "WinROOF2015" manufactured by Mitani Shoji Co., Ltd. is used to measure the fiber diameter D, each circumference C measured therefrom, and the thickness t of the polyester thermoplastic resin B from all the single fibers in the observed image. It should be noted that the fiber diameter D adopts a circle conversion diameter. The obtained fiber diameter D, circumference C, thickness t, and area ratio SA of the polyester thermoplastic resin A are prepared in 10 points, and they are averaged. The fiber diameter D is calculated with 3 significant digits 3, and the circumference C and thickness t are calculated with 2 significant digits as the fiber diameter D, circumference C, thickness t, and area ratio Sa of the present invention. The thickness t was measured at 360 locations every 1° in the fiber circumferential direction, and the smallest value was taken as t. min , set the thickness t to 1.00t min ≤t≤1.05t min The length of the portion where the region overlaps with the circumference of the composite fiber is defined as C t In addition, the area ratio Sa of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A is subtracted from the total area S of the cross section to obtain the area ratio Sb of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B.

[0123] (3) Apparent thickness ratio (D thick / D thin )

[0124] False twisted yarn was extracted from a woven knitted fabric after the dyeing process (final heat setting), and both ends of the false twisted yarn were fixed under a load of 0.11 cN / dtex. The diameter of the fiber bundle was measured at 500 locations at intervals of 1.0 mm in the fiber axis direction using an image obtained by photographing the side of the fixed sample at a magnification of 200 times using a digital microscope "VHX-2000" manufactured by KEYENCE CORPORATION. The fiber diameter of the thick part (D thick ) and the fiber diameter of the detail (D thin ) is determined by defining the thinner portion than the average value of all the measured data as the thin portion (thin portion < average value), and defining the thicker portion than the average value of all the measured data as the thick portion (thick portion > average value). For the apparent thickness ratio, the third decimal place is rounded off and the result is obtained with two decimal places.

[0125] (4) Determination of the presence and depth of cracks and slits

[0126] A scanning electron microscope "S-3400N" manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd. was used as an electron microscope to observe any part. The composite fiber was extracted from the woven knitted fabric after the final heat setting without applying external force, and the presence or absence of cracks and slits was confirmed. In the case of cracks and slits, the side of the fiber axis was observed at a magnification of 2000 times. The deepest depth and length of the cracks and slits were measured, and the average value obtained by measuring 10 cracks and slits in a false twisted yarn was taken as the respective depths. It should be noted that cracks refer to grooves in a direction roughly orthogonal to the fiber axis, and slits refer to grooves in a direction roughly parallel to the fiber axis.

[0127] In the table, when a region with cracks formed on about half of the circumference of the single fiber and a region with slits formed on about half of the circumference is observed, it is recorded as "crack / slit", when a region with cracks formed is observed throughout the entire circumference of the single fiber and no slits are observed, it is recorded as "whole circumference crack", and when a region with cracks formed is observed throughout half of the circumference of the single fiber and no slits are observed, it is recorded as "half circumference crack". It should be noted that in the embodiments and comparative examples described later, the width of the cracks in the above-mentioned cracked samples is in the range of 1.0 to 30.0 μm. In this area, cracks are formed at a frequency of 1 cm in the fiber axis direction in a dispersed form with less than 10 cracks in the circumferential direction of the region. In addition, the length of the slits of the samples with slits is 100 μm or more. In addition, when no cracks or slits are observed, it is recorded as "none".

[0128] (5) Single yarn fineness

[0129] The fineness of each fiber before weaving and the number of filaments were measured by the following method and the fineness / number of filaments was determined.

[0130] Denier: JIS L 1013:2021 Test methods for chemical fiber filaments 8.3.1 (positive density) a) method

[0131] Filament number: JIS L 1013:2021 Test method for chemical fiber filaments (8.4 Filament number).

[0132] For the woven fibers, false twisted yarns were extracted from the dyed woven knitted fabrics, and the fineness and number of filaments were measured according to JIS L1013 (2010) 8.3.1B method and JIS L1013 (2010) 8.4, respectively. The single yarn fineness was obtained by fineness / number of filaments.

[0133] It should be noted that in the case of composite false twisted yarn, for the purpose of measurement, the yarn was wound without composite, and the evaluation (single yarn fineness of false twisted yarn before crack formation) was performed. Furthermore, in the case of heat treatment equivalent to dyeing and alkali reduction treatment, the same treatment was performed and the evaluation (single yarn fineness of false twisted yarn) was performed.

[0134] (6) Stretch recovery rate (CR)

[0135] A small skein (skein length 20 cm, winding number 1) made of false twisted yarn decomposed from a sample of the woven knitted fabric of the present invention was used as a sample, and the stretch recovery rate (CR) was measured according to JIS L 1013:2021 Chemical Fiber Filament Testing Method 8.12. The measurement was performed 5 times, and the second decimal place of the average value was rounded off and the result was obtained with the first decimal place. It should be noted that in the case of composite false twisted yarn, for the purpose of measurement, it was wound without composite, and in the case of heat treatment equivalent to dyeing processing and alkali reduction processing, the same treatment was performed and evaluated.

[0136] (7) Boiling water shrinkage

[0137] The false twisted yarn before crack formation was used as a sample and measured by JIS L2013:2021 Testing methods for chemical fiber filaments 8.18.1 (hot water dimensional change rate) a) method (strand dimensional change rate).

[0138] In the case of the composite false twist textured yarn, the yarn was wound up without being composited for measurement and evaluated.

[0139] (8) Twist coefficient

[0140] The number of twists of the false twisted yarn or composite false twisted yarn decomposed from the sample of the woven knitted fabric of the present invention was measured in accordance with JIS L1013:2021 Testing Methods for Chemical Fibers 8.13.1 (Number of Twists). The twist coefficient was calculated from the obtained number of twists by the following formula.

[0141] Twist coefficient (K) = number of twists (T / m) × √ (fineness (dtex) × 0.9).

[0142] (9) Stretchability of woven and knitted fabrics

[0143] The elongation along the direction of the false twist yarn or composite false twist yarn of the present invention is measured according to JIS L1096 (2010) 8.16.1B method. When the false twist yarn or composite false twist yarn of the present invention is used for both warp and weft, the elongation of each warp and weft is measured and the average value is taken as the result.

[0144] (10) Glare suppression

[0145] The woven knitted fabric was dyed black and observed using a digital microscope "VHX-2000" manufactured by KEYENCE CORPORATION. The observation conditions were set to 50 times the magnification, automatic 60 illumination, super charge 60ms, and gain 0dB. After photographing the surface of the woven knitted fabric under the above conditions, the area (S2) with a brightness of 200 to 255 was extracted from the entire observation area (S1), and the glare suppression degree was calculated using the following formula.

[0146] Glare suppression degree = 1 / (S2 / S1)

[0147] The measurement was performed three times, and the average value was used as the result.

[0148] (11) Evaluation of texture, dryness and resilience of woven and knitted fabrics

[0149] For the samples of the woven knitted fabrics of the present invention, 10 healthy adults (5 males and 5 females) were used as evaluators, and the texture of the woven knitted fabrics was visually evaluated, and the dryness and resilience were evaluated by touch. The sensory evaluation was performed with 5 levels of very good (5 points), good (4 points), ordinary (3 points), not very good (2 points), and poor (1 point). The average value of each examiner was rounded off for evaluation. It should be noted that, for comparison, a woven fabric formed of a false twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate having the same total fineness and the same number of filaments as in the examples and comparative examples was set to ordinary (3 points).

[0150] [Example 1]

[0151] The polyester thermoplastic resin A is polyethylene terephthalate with a weight average molecular weight of 25,000, and the polyester thermoplastic resin B is polyethylene terephthalate with a weight average molecular weight of 15,000. The spinning temperature is 290° C., and the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B have a mass composite ratio of 50:50. The distribution holes in the final distribution plate disposed at the most downstream of the distribution plates composed of a plurality of sheets are arranged as follows: Figure 5 In the form shown, the fiber flows into a conjugate fiber spinneret having 36 ejection holes. Figure 5 This is a schematic diagram of the final distribution plate involved in this embodiment 1 of the false twist textured yarn of the present invention. Among the distribution holes of the final distribution plate, the group of distribution holes 19 of the polyester thermoplastic resin B is formed into an eccentric core-sheath type around the group of distribution holes 18 of the polyester thermoplastic resin A.

[0152] Thus, an eccentric core-sheath type ( Figure 2) composite cross section. The yarn ejected from the spinneret was cooled by an air cooling device and given an oil agent, and then wound up at a speed of 2600 m / min using a winding machine to stably obtain a composite fiber as a semi-drawn yarn with a total fineness of 240 dtex and a single filament number of 36 filaments. Regarding this composite fiber, the aforementioned (t min / D) is 0.02, C t The relationship with C is C t / C=0.40. In addition, S A :S B =50:50.

[0153] Next, the obtained composite fiber was false-twisted using a friction disk false twisting machine (ATF12: manufactured by TMT MACHINERY, INC.), the semi-drawn yarn was supplied from a supply roller, and false twisting was performed at a processing speed of 400 m / min, a rod drawing ratio of 1.40 times, a rod temperature of 80°C, a heater drawing ratio of 1.20 times, a heater temperature of 170°C, a false twist coefficient of 28,000, and a twist direction of S to obtain a false-twisted yarn having a fineness of 143 dtex.

[0154] Next, the false twisted yarn was used as a warp yarn and a weft yarn to produce a plain weave woven fabric with a warp density of 105 yarns / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 90 yarns / 2.54 cm.

[0155] The woven fabric was then subjected to scouring, relaxation, and intermediate heat setting. Thereafter, an alkali reduction process (reduction rate 20%) was performed to form cracks and slits on the surface of the single filaments of the false twisted yarn. Furthermore, as a dyeing process, the disperse dye "Dystar Navy Blue S-GL" was used at a concentration of 1.0 owf% and a temperature of 130°C for 30 minutes, and a final heat setting was performed at 160°C. At this time, the apparent coarseness ratio (D thick / D thin ) was 1.23, and the recovery rate from expansion (CR) was 20.0%. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0156] [Example 2]

[0157] In Example 1, except that the total fineness of the semi-drawn yarn was set to 270 dtex, the rod drawing ratio was set to 1.45 times, and the heater drawing ratio was set to 1.30 times, a false twisted yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. The elongation recovery rate (CR) of the obtained false twisted yarn was 28.0%, and the elongation of the woven fabric was 25%, and the stretchability was further excellent. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0158] [Example 3]

[0159] In Example 1, except that the rod stretching ratio was set to 1.35 times and the heater stretching ratio was set to 1.20 times, a false twisted yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0160] [Example 4]

[0161] In Example 1, except that the rod stretching ratio was set to 1.20 times and the heater stretching ratio was set to 1.35 times, a false twisted yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0162] [Example 5]

[0163] False twisted yarn and woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the number of holes in the spinneret was changed to prepare a semi-drawn yarn having a total fineness of 240 dtex and a single-filament number of 48 filaments.

[0164] [Example 6]

[0165] In the false twisting process, the semi-drawn yarns made of polyethylene terephthalate fibers as other yarns were merged before the heater, and the false twisted yarns were drawn by 1.50 times by the heater to prepare composite false twisted yarns with a false twisted yarn mixing ratio of 63%, and the warp yarn density was 88 yarns / inch (2.54 cm) and the weft yarn density was 75 yarns / inch (2.54 cm). The woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2. The obtained woven fabric had a more excellent texture due to the difference in dyeing color between the false twisted yarn and the other yarns. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0166] [Example 7]

[0167] The semi-drawn yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the number of holes in the spinneret and the inflow amount of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin were changed to obtain filaments with a total fineness of 113 dtex and a number of single filaments of 24. The semi-drawn yarn was used as another yarn, and a composite false-twisted yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 6. The obtained woven fabric had a more excellent texture due to the difference in dyeing color between the false-twisted yarn and the other yarn, and the CR of the other yarn was high, so the stretchability was also excellent. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0168] [Example 8]

[0169] The false twisted yarn obtained in Example 2 was twisted at a twist coefficient of 3000 and a twist direction of S, and a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2. The false twisted yarn has improved bundling properties, improved passing properties in the weaving process, and the stretchability and resilience of the woven fabric are equivalent to those of the case where the yarn is not twisted. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0170] [Example 9]

[0171] The false twisted yarn obtained in Example 2 was twisted in a twist coefficient of 3000 and a twist direction of Z. A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2. The false twisted yarn has improved bundling properties and good passing properties in the weaving process. Furthermore, the stretchability of the woven fabric is the same as that of the case where the yarn is not twisted. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0172] [Example 10]

[0173] A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the false twisted yarn obtained in Example 2 was twisted at a twist coefficient of 10000 and a twist direction of S. The false twisted yarn had improved bundling properties and good passing properties in the weaving process. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0174] [Example 11]

[0175] The woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the polyester thermoplastic resin A was a polyester having a weight average molecular weight of 25,000 obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid (IPA) in an amount of 10 mol % relative to the acid component.

[0176] [Example 12]

[0177] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0178] [Comparative Example 1]

[0179] Except that the alkali weight reduction treatment was not performed, a false twisted yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 2. Since the obtained woven fabric was not subjected to alkali weight reduction, cracks and slits were not formed, glare suppression was low, and the combed appearance was poor. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0180] [Comparative Example 2]

[0181] Polyethylene terephthalate with a weight average molecular weight of 20,000 is made to flow into a fiber spinneret (round hole) with 36 ejection holes at a spinning temperature of 290°C. The yarn ejected from the spinneret is cooled by an air cooling device and given an oil agent, and then wound up at a speed of 2600m / min using a winding machine, and stably wound up as a semi-drawn yarn with a total fineness of 240dtex-36 filaments. The semi-drawn yarn is used, and except for this, false twisting is performed in the same manner as in Example 2 to obtain a woven fabric. The obtained woven fabric has poor stretchability. In addition, since it is formed from one kind of thermoplastic resin, no slits can be obtained even if alkali reduction is performed, and the glare suppression degree is low, so the combing appearance is poor. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0182] [Comparative Example 3]

[0183] Except that the polyester thermoplastic resin A was polyethylene terephthalate having a weight average molecular weight of 20,000, and the polyester thermoplastic resin B was polyethylene terephthalate having a weight average molecular weight of 19,000, a false twisted yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 2. The obtained woven fabric had poor stretchability, and since the molecular weight difference was small, sufficient unevenness could not be obtained at the bonding interface of the composite fiber, so cracks could not be formed, and the glare suppression degree was low, so the combing appearance was poor. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0184] [Comparative Example 4]

[0185] In Example 2, the spinneret used was replaced with a spinneret of the type described in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 09-157941 from a distribution plate type spinneret to produce a parallel type composite fiber composed of polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B. A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2. In the case of the parallel type composite fiber, the polyester thermoplastic resin A was exposed at the time of composite fiber formation, and no slit was formed even after alkali reduction, so the glare suppression was low and the combing appearance was poor. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0186] [Comparative Example 5]

[0187] In Example 2, a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the yarn was stretched without passing through the twisting machine of the false twisting machine. The surface of the obtained woven fabric was smooth and had a poor dry feeling. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0188] [Comparative Example 6]

[0189] In the false twisting process of Example 2, the apparent thickness ratio (D thick / D thin ) is 1.02. The thickness ratio of the false twisted yarn of the obtained woven fabric is small, the natural feeling is low, and the structure of the fiber length direction is uniform, the orientation difference of the molecules constituting the fiber in the length direction is small, and the cracks caused by alkali reduction cannot be obtained, so the glare suppression is low and the combing appearance is poor. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0190] [Comparative Example 7]

[0191] In the false twisting process of Example 2, the rod stretching ratio was set to 1.30 times, and the heater stretching ratio was set to 1.02 times, and the apparent thickness ratio (D thick / D thin) was 3.20. In addition, the warp density was set to 88 yarns / inch (2.54 cm) and the weft density was set to 75 yarns / inch (2.54 cm), and a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2. The false twisted yarn of the obtained woven fabric had a large thickness ratio, a mechanically light and dark texture, and a poor combed appearance. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0192] [Comparative Example 8]

[0193] In Example 2, the minimum value t of the thickness t of the polyester thermoplastic resin B covering the polyester thermoplastic resin A is t min The value is 10 times, and the configuration of the distribution holes of the final distribution plate of the spinneret used is changed by Figure 5 Change to Figure 6 , a polyester thermoplastic resin A and a polyester thermoplastic resin B are formed, and (t min A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the core-sheath type composite fiber had a / D) of 0.20. Figure 6 1 is a schematic diagram of the final distribution plate involved in this comparative example 1, and among the distribution holes of the final distribution plate, the group of distribution holes 19 of the polyester thermoplastic resin B is formed in an eccentric core-sheath type around the group of distribution holes 18 of the polyester thermoplastic resin A, and the minimum value t of the thickness t min The value of is configured as described above. The obtained woven fabric has a thick polyester thermoplastic resin B covering the polyester thermoplastic resin A, so even if the alkali reduction process is performed, the bonding interface is not exposed, so no slits are formed, the glare suppression degree is low, and the combing appearance is poor. In addition, the stretchability is also poor. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0194] [Table 1]

[0195]

[0196] [Table 2]

[0197]

[0198] Description of Reference Numerals

[0199] 1: Polyester thermoplastic resin A

[0200] 2: Polyester thermoplastic resin B

[0201] 3: Thickness t of the polyester thermoplastic resin B covering the polyester thermoplastic resin A

[0202] 4: False twist processed yarn

[0203] 5: Crack

[0204] 6: Slit

[0205] 7: Composite fiber

[0206] 8: 1st supply roller

[0207] 9: Hot Rod

[0208] 10: Second supply roller

[0209] 11: Heater

[0210] 12: Twisting Machine

[0211] 13: 3rd supply roller

[0212] 14: False twisted yarn or composite false twisted yarn

[0213] 15: Winding section

[0214] 16: Other yarns

[0215] 17: 4th supply roller

[0216] 18: Distribution hole of polyester thermoplastic resin A

[0217] 19: Distribution hole of polyester thermoplastic resin B

Claims

1. A false twist textured yarn comprising a polyester thermoplastic resin A and a polyester thermoplastic resin B, wherein the false twist textured yarn satisfies the following requirements: (1) The weight average molecular weight M of the polyester thermoplastic resin A A The weight average molecular weight M of the polyester thermoplastic resin B B The difference (M A -M B ) is 2000~15000, (2) the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B are joined in an eccentric manner, (3) The apparent thickness ratio (D thick / D thin ) is 1.05~3.00, (4) The surface of the false twisted yarn has slits in the fiber axis direction and cracks in a direction substantially orthogonal to the fiber axis direction.

2. The false twist textured yarn according to claim 1, wherein the single yarn fineness is 3.0 dtex or more.

3. The false twist textured yarn according to claim 1 or 2, which has a recovery rate from stretch (CR) of 25.0% or more.

4. A composite false-twist textured yarn comprising the false-twist textured yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3 and at least one other yarn.

5. The composite false twist textured yarn according to claim 4, wherein: The other yarns are yarns with visible curls.

6. A twisted yarn comprising any one of the false twist textured yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3 and the composite false twist textured yarn according to claim 4 or 5, wherein the twist coefficient of the twisted yarn is 1200 to 6000.

7. A woven knitted fabric comprising, at least in part, any one of the false twist textured yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, the composite false twist textured yarn according to claim 4 or 5, and the twisted yarn according to claim 6.

8. A garment comprising the woven knitted fabric of claim 7 in at least a portion thereof.

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