Plant extract lamellar liquid crystal composition, preparation method and application of plant extract lamellar liquid crystal composition in cosmetics

Abstract

The invention discloses a plant extract lamellar liquid crystal composition, a preparation method and application of the plant extract lamellar liquid crystal composition in cosmetics. The plant extract lamellar liquid crystal composition comprises a biological glycolipid surfactant, an amino acid surfactant, phospholipid, polyol and a plant extract, wherein the mass percentage of the raw materials is 0.1%-20%, the mass percentage of the amino acid surfactant is 0.1%-10%, the mass percentage of the phospholipid is 0.1%-5%, the mass percentage of the polyhydric alcohol is 1%-10%, and the balance of the plant extracting solution is supplemented to 100%. The biological surfactant, the phospholipid and the amino acid surfactant are compounded according to a certain proportion, and the biological surfactant and the amino acid surfactant have ceramide-like structures and are combined with the phospholipid to form a lamellar liquid crystal structure similar to a skin structure.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular relates to a plant extract lamellar liquid crystal composition and a preparation method thereof, and application thereof in cosmetics. Background Art

[0002] Liquid crystal (LC) is the abbreviation of liquid crystal. It is an intermediate state between solid and liquid, also known as the fourth state of matter. It has the continuity and fluidity of liquid, the anisotropy of single crystal, and is a thermodynamically stable phase.

[0003] Dendrobium is known as the "gold among medicines". It has the effects of promoting fluid production and benefiting the stomach, nourishing yin and clearing away heat, enhancing immunity, and prolonging life. Many polysaccharide active ingredients have a relatively large relative molecular mass, and have moisturizing and skin barrier repairing effects in the skin, and can protect the biomembrane. Polysaccharides can also scavenge free radicals, inhibit the activity of lipid peroxidation, and increase the activity of antioxidant enzymes, which plays a role in delaying aging. Dendrobium extract has been included in the "Catalogue of Used Cosmetic Raw Materials" (2021 edition) as a cosmetic raw material. Dendrobium is natural and mild, and its application in cosmetics has broad application value and market prospects. Various cosmetics with Dendrobium officinale as the main effective raw material are also gradually increasing. However, since most of its effective substances are water-soluble, the transdermal effect is poor after being directly added to the formula, and the existing dosage forms affect its bioavailability.

[0004] Centella asiatica is a natural Chinese medicinal plant with good heat-clearing, dampness-removing, anti-inflammatory and detoxifying effects. Its ingredients are safe, so it is widely used in skin care products and has a good skin care effect. Especially for sensitive skin, Centella asiatica is a natural "repairing grass". Its DPPH free radical scavenging rate, tyrosinase consistent activity rate, and collagen secretion rate all have outstanding data performance. However, due to the poor solubility of its effective substances, the transdermal effect is poor after being directly added to the formula, and the existing dosage forms affect its bioavailability.

[0005] At present, there is no report on preparing a lamellar liquid crystal composition from a Dendrobium officinale extract and a Centella asiatica extract to improve its bioavailability. Summary of the invention

[0006] The purpose of this section is to summarize some aspects of embodiments of the present invention and briefly introduce some preferred embodiments. Some simplifications or omissions may be made in this section and the specification abstract and the invention title of this application to avoid blurring the purpose of this section, the specification abstract and the invention title, and such simplifications or omissions cannot be used to limit the scope of the present invention.

[0007] In view of the above problems and / or the problems existing in the prior art, the present invention is proposed.

[0008] Therefore, the object of the present invention is to overcome the deficiencies in the prior art and provide a plant extract lamellar liquid crystal composition.

[0009] In order to solve the above technical problems, the present invention provides the following technical solutions: a plant extract lamellar liquid crystal composition, comprising a bioglycolipid surfactant, an amino acid surfactant, a phospholipid, a polyol and a plant extract;

[0010] Wherein, based on the mass percentage of the raw materials, the bioglycolipid surfactant is 0.1%-20%, the amino acid surfactant is 0.1%-10%, the phospholipid is 0.1%-5%, the polyol is 1%-10%, and the remaining plant extract is supplemented to 100%;

[0011] The plant extract is one or more of a Dendrobium officinale extract and a Centella asiatica extract.

[0012] As a preferred embodiment of the composition of the present invention, the mass ratio of the bioglycolipid surfactant to the amino acid surfactant is 3:1.

[0013] As a preferred embodiment of the composition of the present invention, the biosurfactant includes one or more of sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, trehalolipids, and mannosyl erythritol lipids.

[0014] As a preferred embodiment of the composition of the present invention, the amino acid surfactant includes one or more of phytosterol / behenyl alcohol / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, phytosterol / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, cholesterol / behenyl alcohol / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, cholesterol lauroyl glutamate, di(lauroyl glutamine) sodium lysine, di(octyldodecyl polyether-5) lauroyl glutamate, and dioctyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate.

[0015] As a preferred embodiment of the composition of the present invention, the phospholipids include one or more of lecithin or hydrogenated lecithin, and the content of phosphatidylcholine is ≥40%.

[0016] As a preferred embodiment of the composition of the present invention, the polyol includes one or more of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol.

[0017] Another object of the present invention is to overcome the deficiencies in the prior art and provide a method for preparing a composition, comprising:

[0018] Weigh the raw materials, mix them, heat them in a water bath to 60-80° C., and disperse them at high speed to obtain the composition;

[0019] The high-speed dispersion has a rotation speed of 15000 rpm and a dispersion time of 5 to 10 minutes.

[0020] Another object of the present invention is to overcome the deficiencies in the prior art and provide an application of a composition in the preparation of cosmetics, wherein the cosmetics are selected from one or more of a facial cleanser, a facial mask, a toner or emulsion, a cream, and an essence.

[0021] Beneficial effects of the present invention:

[0022] The present invention adopts biosurfactant, phospholipid and amino acid surfactant to be compounded in a mass ratio of 6:2:1. The biosurfactant and amino acid surfactant have a ceramide-like structure, which is combined with phospholipid to form a layered liquid crystal structure similar to the skin structure. The functional plant extract layered liquid crystal composition prepared by the present invention can effectively protect and slow-release the active ingredients in the plant extract, greatly improve the penetration of the active ingredients, and enhance its moisturizing, anti-aging, soothing and repairing effects. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0023] In order to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention, the following briefly introduces the drawings required for describing the embodiments. Obviously, the drawings described below are only some embodiments of the present invention. For ordinary technicians in this field, other drawings can be obtained based on these drawings without creative labor. Among them:

[0024] Figure 1 This is a diagram of the liquid crystal structure of the sample in Example 1 of the present invention.

[0025] Figure 2 This is a comparison diagram of the appearance of the liquid crystal structure sample and the precipitation sample in Example 1 of the present invention.

[0026] Figure 3 This is the result of the transdermal experiment in Example 2 of the present invention.

[0027] Figure 4 This is the experimental result of the β-galactosidase staining method in Example 3 of the present invention.

[0028] Figure 5 This is the drying damage detection experiment result in Example 4 of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0029] In order to make the above-mentioned objects, features and advantages of the present invention more obvious and easy to understand, the specific implementation methods of the present invention are described in detail below in conjunction with the embodiments of the specification.

[0030] In the following description, many specific details are set forth to facilitate a full understanding of the present invention, but the present invention may also be implemented in other ways different from those described herein, and those skilled in the art may make similar generalizations without violating the connotation of the present invention. Therefore, the present invention is not limited to the specific embodiments disclosed below.

[0031] Secondly, the term "one embodiment" or "embodiment" as used herein refers to a specific feature, structure, or characteristic that may be included in at least one implementation of the present invention. The term "in one embodiment" that appears in different places in this specification does not necessarily refer to the same embodiment, nor does it refer to a separate or selective embodiment that is mutually exclusive with other embodiments.

[0032] The raw materials in the invention are all common commercially available products. The total sugar content in the extract of Dendrobium officinale is greater than 0.5%, and the total asiatica glycoside content in the extract of Centella asiatica is greater than 1%.

[0033] Example 1

[0034] Prepare the emulsion according to the raw material ratio in Table 1:

[0035] Preparation method: Weigh all raw materials into a beaker, heat to 80°C in a water bath, and disperse at a high speed of 15000 rpm for 5 minutes to obtain an emulsion.

[0036] Table 1 Raw material ratio table (unit: %)

[0037]

[0038] The results showed that the emulsions prepared from samples 1 and 12 could form obvious lamellar liquid crystal structures; the emulsions prepared from samples 4, 5, 6, 8, and 10 had precipitation and were unstable; and no liquid crystal structure was observed in the emulsions prepared from samples 2, 3, 7, 9, 11, 13, and 14.

[0039] The sample 1 was measured using a polarizing microscope, and the liquid crystal structure pattern obtained was as follows: Figure 1 As shown, an obvious Maltese cross pattern can be observed, proving that a lamellar liquid crystal structure is formed.

[0040] Figure 2 Shown is a comparison of the appearance of a sample with a liquid crystal structure (transparent) and a sample with precipitation (turbid with precipitation).

[0041] Example 2

[0042] Transdermal test:

[0043] Sample A Dendrobium officinale extract comparison sample (86% Dendrobium officinale extract + 14% water) Sample B Sample No. 1 in Example 1

[0044] Experimental methods:

[0045] In the whole experiment, intact and undamaged pig skin of equal thickness was selected for transdermal experiment. The pig skin was cut into pieces of about 2.5 cm × 2.5 cm in size and placed between the receiving pool and the supply pool of the Franz diffusion cell, with the stratum corneum facing the supply pool.

[0046] The receiving pool contained PBS buffer (pH=7.4) containing 5% Tween 80; 2 mL of the sample to be tested was added to the supply pool; the assembled Franz diffusion cell was placed in the transdermal diffusion instrument, and the experimental conditions were set as follows: temperature was 37°C, stirring speed was 400 rpm, and transdermal time was 12 h.

[0047] After the transdermal test, the pigskin was taken out of the diffusion cell, and the residual sample on the surface of the pigskin was wiped clean with absorbent cotton. Then, the tape stripping method was used to determine the content of dendrobium polysaccharide in the stratum corneum. 21 layers of skin on the surface of the pigskin were taped with 3M tape, the first layer was discarded, and the remaining 20 layers were placed in a 15mL centrifuge tube. 2mL of isopropanol was first added to the tube, ultrasonicated for 30 minutes, and centrifuged at 5000rpm for 30 minutes. The supernatant was filtered with a 0.22μm organic filter membrane, and the content of dendrobium polysaccharide was determined, which was the content of dendrobium polysaccharide in the stratum corneum.

[0048] The remaining skin surface was heated at 60°C for 15 seconds, and the viable epidermis was carefully cut off with a scalpel, shredded and placed in a 15 mL centrifuge tube, 2 mL of isopropanol was added, ultrasonicated for 30 minutes, and centrifuged at 5000 rpm for 30 minutes. The supernatant was filtered with a 0.22 μm organic filter membrane and the content of Dendrobium polysaccharide was determined, which was the content of Dendrobium polysaccharide determined in the viable epidermis.

[0049] The remaining skin was cut into pieces and placed in a 15 mL centrifuge tube. 2 mL of isopropanol was added and ultrasonicated for 30 min. Then, the tube was centrifuged at 5000 rpm for 30 min. The supernatant was filtered with a 0.22 μm organic filter membrane and the content of dendrobium polysaccharide was determined. This was the content of dendrobium polysaccharide in the dermis.

[0050] The content of polysaccharides in Dendrobium officinale was determined by the sulfuric acid-phenol method.

[0051] The results of the transdermal test were as follows Figure 3 As shown, it can be seen from the results that the transdermal effect of the Dendrobium officinale liquid crystal composition is 3 times that of the Dendrobium officinale extract. The system effectively improves the transdermal absorption effect of the active substance Dendrobium polysaccharide and increases its bioavailability.

[0052] Example 3

[0053] Anti-aging effect-β-galactosidase staining method

[0054] Sample A Dendrobium officinale extract comparison sample (86% Dendrobium officinale extract + 14% water) Sample B Sample No. 1 in Example 1

[0055] Experimental methods:

[0056] Fibroblasts in the logarithmic growth phase were digested and counted, and the number of cells was 1.5×10 5 pcs / mL were inoculated in 6-well plates;

[0057] After 24 hours, at 15J / cm 2 Induce under UVA conditions, then add the sample to be tested for incubation. After 24 hours, remove the culture medium, rinse twice with PBS buffer, add 1mL cell fixative and fix at room temperature for 15 minutes, then remove. Rinse three times with PBS buffer, add 1mL of β-galactosidase staining working solution. Seal the plate with sealing film and incubate at 37℃ overnight. Observe the cell staining under an inverted microscope and take pictures.

[0058] Results Figure 4 The results showed that β-galactosidase can specifically bind to the dye and appear blue. The fewer blue areas, the lower the expression level of β-galactosidase.

[0059] As can be seen from the above figure, the liquid crystal composition of Dendrobium officinale can significantly inhibit the production of β-galactosidase, and can make the ability of β-galactosidase expression of cells lower than that of the model group, and has better anti-aging ability.

[0060] Example 4

[0061] Drying damage detection experiment:

[0062] Sample: Sample No. 12 in Example 1.

[0063] Experimental methods:

[0064] Cell inoculation: HaCaT cells were grown in complete medium (high-glucose DMEM medium containing 10% FBS and 1% double antibody);

[0065] The cells were digested with trypsin at a rate of 1.5 × 10 4 Each well of the plate was inoculated with 100 μL of the culture medium and cultured in a 37°C, 5% CO2 incubator for 30 h.

[0066] SDS stimulation: aspirate the culture medium and wash away the residual culture medium with PBS, add 100 μL of 25 μg / mL SDS (dissolved in PBS) to the rest and incubate in the incubator for 4 h.

[0067] Sample treatment: aspirate the culture medium and wash away the residual culture medium with PBS, add 100 μL DMEM high-glucose culture medium to the blank group, and add 100 μL DMEM prepared with samples of different concentrations, with 3 parallels in each group, and incubate in the incubator for 24 h.

[0068] Cell viability test: Remove the culture medium and add 100 μL of 0.5 mg / mL MTT solution (prepared in DMEM) to each well. After placing in the incubator for 4 hours, remove the solution and add 100 μL DMSO, and measure the absorbance at 490 nm. The calculation formula is as follows:

[0069] Cell survival rate % = As / Ac × 100%

[0070] As and Ac are the absorbance of the sample group and the control group, respectively.

[0071] Results Figure 5 The liquid crystal composition of Centella asiatica extract has a strong repair effect on SDS damage when the concentration is 0.625-2.5%, and when the treatment concentration is 0.625%, it can repair to the same level as the normal group.

[0072] Example 5

[0073] Essence formula

[0074]

[0075]

[0076] The essence was divided into room temperature samples, heat-resistant samples, cold-resistant samples and light samples. The room temperature samples were placed away from light, the heat-resistant samples were placed in a constant temperature oven at (50±1℃), the cold-resistant samples were placed in a -18℃ refrigerator, and the light samples were placed in an artificial intelligence climate box. After 3 months, the sample properties, appearance, color and smell were observed. There was no oil-water separation phenomenon. The results are shown in the following table.

[0077] Formula stability test

[0078]

[0079] The experimental results show that after the sample provided by the present invention is compounded with the matrix, no obvious discoloration and stratification phenomenon occurs after being placed at room temperature, high temperature, low temperature and light for 3 months, which can meet the actual application needs.

[0080] In order to solve the problem of low bioavailability of plant extracts, the present invention organically combines plant extracts and functional components, and while ensuring that the carrier particles reach nanometer-level particle size, through the compatibility of the selected emulsifiers, the system forms a layered liquid crystal structure at room temperature. This system is more conducive to the functional components entering the stratum corneum, thereby increasing the transdermal amount of the functional factors and greatly improving the bioavailability of the effective ingredients.

[0081] It should be noted that the above embodiments are only used to illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention rather than to limit it. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that the technical solutions of the present invention can be modified or replaced by equivalents without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention, which should all be included in the scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A plant extract lamellar liquid crystal composition, characterized in that: Including, bioglycolipid surfactants, amino acid surfactants, phospholipids, polyols and plant extracts; Wherein, based on the mass percentage of the raw materials, the bioglycolipid surfactant is 0.1%-20%, the amino acid surfactant is 0.1%-10%, the phospholipid is 0.1%-5%, the polyol is 1%-10%, and the remaining plant extract is supplemented to 100%; The plant extract is one or more of a Dendrobium officinale extract and a Centella asiatica extract.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The mass ratio of the bioglycolipid surfactant to the amino acid surfactant is 3:

1.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: The biosurfactant includes one or more of sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, trehalolipids, and mannolipids and erythritol lipids.

4. The composition according to claim 3, characterized in that: The amino acid surfactant includes one or more of phytosterol / behenyl alcohol / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, phytosterol / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, cholesterol / behenyl alcohol / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, cholesterol lauroyl glutamate, di(lauroyl glutamine) sodium lysine, di(octyldodecyl polyether-5) lauroyl glutamate, and dioctyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate.

5. The composition according to claim 4, characterized in that: The phospholipids include one or more of lecithin or hydrogenated lecithin, and the content of phosphatidylcholine is ≥40%.

6. The composition according to claim 5, characterized in that: The polyol includes one or more of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol.

7. A method for preparing a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that: include, The raw materials are weighed and mixed, heated in a water bath to 60-80° C., and dispersed at high speed to obtain the composition.

8. The method for preparing the composition according to claim 7, characterized in that: The high-speed dispersion has a rotation speed of 15000 rpm and a dispersion time of 5 to 10 minutes.

9. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 in the preparation of cosmetics, characterized in that: The cosmetics are selected from one or more of facial cleansers, facial masks, lotions or emulsions, creams, and essences.

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