Preparation process of warm-keeping, breathable, antibacterial, anti-mite and anti-static cashmere overcoat lining

Abstract

The invention provides a preparation process of a warm-keeping, breathable, antibacterial, anti-mite and anti-static cashmere overcoat lining, and belongs to the technical field of lining fabrics. Based on the selection of the satin weave crepe plain satin fabric, strict control of the degumming rate, and the selection of the Newton blue acid dye for constant tension jig dyeing machine dyeing and the preshrinking process, the color fastness, breaking strength, luster and soft hand feeling of the fabric are synergistically improved, the possibility of pilling and the stitch slipping condition are reduced, and the produced overcoat lining fabric is soft in hand feeling, good in hand feeling and good in hand feeling. The fabric is soft in gloss, stable in size and suitable for frequent wearing, washing injury is avoided, and the problems of scratching and hooking injury and poor antistatic property in wearing are solved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of lining fabrics and relates to a preparation process of a cashmere coat lining which is warm, breathable, antibacterial, anti-mite and anti-static. Background Art

[0002] Cashmere coats are indeed more warm than coats made of other materials. The feel and light texture of cashmere make people feel comfortable. With the lining, it can keep you warm in cold weather. The lining of the coat will make the overall integrity of the coat more perfect. At present, the lining of coats on the market is mainly made of polyester and rayon. The disadvantages are poor moisture absorption, breathability and anti-static properties, and greater irritation to the skin.

[0003] Silk crepe satin is tightly woven, soft to the touch, smooth and bright, with good drape, and is known as the "Queen of Silk". The bright satin surface is very noble and has the smoothness of satin fabrics, and is expected to be used as a lining fabric for coats. However, traditional crepe satin fabrics are not wear-resistant, easy to pill and shrink, and the dyeing effect of traditional crepe satin fabric preparation technology is poor, and it is impossible to obtain crepe satin fabrics with high color fastness.

[0004] Patent CN202223282605.3 discloses a comfortable and breathable coat. The patent uses a pure cotton lining. The fabric can achieve a breathable effect, but cannot solve the anti-static and wear resistance in actual wearing, and does not have the advantages of silk crepe satin, such as soft, smooth and bright touch.

[0005] Therefore, the market currently urgently needs a coat preparation process using plain crepe satin fabric as coat lining material.

[0006] Contents

[0007] The purpose of the present invention is to overcome the shortcomings and deficiencies of the prior art and provide a preparation process for a warm, breathable, antibacterial, anti-mite and anti-static cashmere coat lining. The present invention uses silk plain crepe satin as the fabric, and by weaving the plain crepe satin into a satin weave, the structural characteristics of the weave can improve the strength and stability of the fabric and significantly reduce the possibility of pilling. However, since the satin weave is prone to cracking, the present invention strictly controls the degumming rate, maintains the gram weight and feel of the silk fabric, and reduces the occurrence of cracks in the satin weave fabric.

[0008] The purpose of the present invention can be achieved by the following scheme:

[0009] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing a warm, breathable, antibacterial, anti-mite and anti-static cashmere coat lining, comprising the following steps:

[0010] S1, twisting the mulberry silk to obtain yarn;

[0011] S2, weaving the yarn to obtain plain crepe satin;

[0012] The weave structure of the plain crepe satin is a satin weave;

[0013] S3, degumming, dyeing, pre-shrinking, drying and finishing the plain crepe satin to obtain the coat lining;

[0014] The degumming rate of the degumming is 21-23%;

[0015] The dyeing agent used in the dyeing is Newtralan acid dye.

[0016] As an embodiment of the present invention, in step S1, the yarn count range of the yarn is 44-110D, and the yarn is composed of a plurality of mulberry silks with a fineness range of 20-25D.

[0017] As an embodiment of the present invention, in step S1, the twist number of the twisting is 2200-2700, and the twist direction is 2S2Z.

[0018] As an embodiment of the present invention, in step S2, the weaving method includes weaving.

[0019] As an embodiment of the present invention, in step S2, the gram weight of the plain crepe satin is 16-25 momme.

[0020] In some embodiments, the plain crepe satin is designed according to 25 momme plain crepe satin 22D / 3 (warp strips) × 22D / 5 (weft strips), 128 (warp density) × 46 (weft density), 22 momme plain crepe satin 22D / 3 (warp strips) × 22D / 4 (weft strips), 120 (warp density) × 50 (weft density), 19 momme plain crepe satin 22D / 2 (warp strips) × 22D / 3 (weft strips), 120 (warp density) × 50 (weft density), or 16 momme plain crepe satin 22D / 2 (warp strips) × 22D / 2 (weft strips), 128 (warp density) × 48 (weft density).

[0021] The rapier loom is used for weaving, and the obtained plain crepe satin has a strong gloss, a smooth hand feel, is soft and glutinous and has high elasticity, and has a tight structure and can be closely fitted with a cashmere coat.

[0022] As an embodiment of the present invention, in step S3, the degumming method includes a loose degumming method.

[0023] In the present invention, sericin can absorb alkali in alkali solution and swell violently, and the free hydroxyl groups in the sericin molecules can dissociate into H ﹢ With OH in alkali ﹣Combined with protein salt, the solubility of sericin is improved, and the alkali can hydrolyze and break the sericin peptide chain, so that the sericin is separated from the silk. On the one hand, if the degumming rate is too high, there will be too little sericin on the silk, which cannot effectively protect it, thereby reducing the breaking strength of the fabric; on the other hand, if the degumming rate is too low, there will be too much sericin on the silk, which will reduce the gloss and softness of the fabric and affect the subsequent dyeing effect. Therefore, the degumming process conditions are strictly controlled to ensure the degumming effect and dyeing permeability.

[0024] Furthermore, the degumming temperature is 95-100°C, and the degumming time is 240-300 minutes; the degumming solution comprises: water, and a degumming aid, wherein the degumming aid comprises 5.5-6.5 g / L baking soda, 5.5-6.5 g / L soda ash, 5.5-6.5 g / L high-efficiency scouring agent YR-300, 5.5-6.5 g / L fast scouring agent S-35, 3.7-4.3 g / L high-efficiency penetrant YR-200, 1.8-2.2 g / L wax remover LR, 1.8-2.2 g / L oil remover OZCN, 3.7-4.3 g / L sodium dithionite (hydraulic acid) and 0.8-1.2 g / L chelating dispersant DS-45; and the pH value of the degumming solution is 10-11.

[0025] In some embodiments, the silk fabric plain crepe satin is degummed in a refining tank. The crystallinity and orientation of sericin in silk fibers are relatively high, and waxy substances are significantly increased, resulting in reduced water solubility. Therefore, the degumming of the mulberry silk fabric (i.e. plain crepe satin) of the present invention is carried out in a refining tank and processed under loose conditions.

[0026] As an embodiment of the present invention, in step S3, the dyeing is performed using a constant tension jigger, and the Newtralan acid dye includes water, Newtralan dye 0.1-2.5% owf, and acetic acid 1-2 g / L; the pH of the dye solution is 4.5-5.5.

[0027] Further, the Newtralan dye includes one of Newtralan Red K-RL, Newtralan Yellow K-NW, and Newtralan Gray KB L. The Newtralan dye is produced by Yorkshire (Zhejiang) Dyeing and Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0028] The present invention adopts Newtralan acid dye for dyeing, which can effectively reduce the strong damage to silk fibers, thereby avoiding the problems of gray damage (abrasions and hooks) on the fabric during frequent wearing; at the same time, because the fabric is thick and full after degumming in the refining tank, but has low gloss, the present invention adopts a constant tension jigger for dyeing, which maintains the soft gloss of silk, achieves high-fastness dyeing, and designs a green dyeing and finishing process according to the characteristics of the dye.

[0029] As an embodiment of the present invention, in step S3, the dyeing temperature is 90-95° C., and the dyeing time is 120-180 minutes.

[0030] As an embodiment of the present invention, in step S3, the warp shrinkage of the pre-shrunk fabric does not exceed 3% according to the national standard, which is GB / T 5713-2013.

[0031] As an embodiment of the present invention, in step S3, the drying temperature is 120-130° C. In some preferred embodiments, the drying is carried out using a silk multi-roller drying machine at a speed of 20-25 m / min.

[0032] As an embodiment of the present invention, in step S3, the specific operation of the finishing is: drying at 110-120°C, with a speed of 20-25 m / min; stentering and shaping at 100-110°C, with a speed of 30-35 m / min. The basic shape of the fabric after shaping is stable to prevent deformation.

[0033] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0034] 1. The present invention uses pure silk crepe satin as the fabric, which has a relatively tight and smooth textile structure, and helps to keep the fabric soft and glossy; further, by weaving the pure silk crepe satin into a satin weave, the structural characteristics of the weave can improve the strength and stability of the fabric, and further significantly reduce the possibility of pilling. However, since the satin weave is prone to cracking, the present invention strictly controls the degumming rate, maintains the weight and feel of the silk fabric, and reduces the occurrence of cracks in the satin weave fabric.

[0035] 2. The present invention can make the fabric have both breaking strength, gloss and softness by strictly controlling the degumming rate; meanwhile, it is beneficial to the subsequent dyeing effect and improves the color fastness of the fabric. In addition, the high-efficiency scouring agent YR-300 containing a silk protective agent is added to the degumming liquid to increase the degumming speed and reduce the damage to the silk during the degumming process, thereby further reducing the possibility of pilling and improving the gloss and softness of the fabric.

[0036] 3. The present invention adopts a constant tension jigger for dyeing, so the silk fabric obtained has good glossiness. At the same time, since the combination of dye and fiber is mainly hydrogen bond and Van der Waals force, in order to achieve high fastness dyeing, the present invention adopts Newtralan acid dye (i.e. 1:2 metal complex dye), which solves the problems of poor color fastness of conventional acid dyes (1:1 acid dyes), and the dyed color is not resistant to washing and friction.

[0037] 4. The present invention adopts pre-shrinkage, that is, under hot and humid conditions, the expansion and contraction deformation of the elastic blanket is used to increase the weft density and warp shrinkage to a certain extent, thereby having a relaxed structure. When the fibers are mixed and swelled, the warp length is no longer shortened, which has the effect of significantly reducing the shrinkage rate of the finished product, solving the problem of easy shrinkage of traditional plain crepe satin.

[0038] 5. The present invention is based on selecting satin texture plain crepe satin fabric, strictly controlling the degumming rate, and using Newtralan acid dyes for constant tension jigger dyeing and pre-shrinking process to synergistically improve the color fastness, breaking strength, gloss, and soft feel of the fabric, reduce the possibility of pilling and cracking, and the produced silk plain crepe satin fabric has a soft feel, soft gloss, stable size, can adapt to frequent wear, avoid washing damage, and solve the problems of scratches and hooks during wearing and poor anti-static properties. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0039] Other features, objects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent from the detailed description of non-limiting embodiments made with reference to the following drawings:

[0040] Figure 1 This is a physical picture of the fabric prepared in Example 1;

[0041] Figure 2 The suture slippage test results of the fabric prepared in Example 1;

[0042] Figure 3 The suture slippage test results of the fabric prepared in Example 2;

[0043] Figure 4 The stitch slip test results of the fabric prepared in Comparative Example 1;

[0044] Figure 5 The suture slippage test results of the fabric prepared in Comparative Example 2;

[0045] Figure 6 This is the stitch slip test result of the fabric prepared in Comparative Example 3. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0046] The present invention is described in detail below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments. The following examples are implemented on the premise of the technical solution of the present invention, provide detailed implementation methods and specific operation processes, and will help those skilled in the art to further understand the present invention. It should be pointed out that the protection scope of the present invention is not limited to the following embodiments, and several adjustments and improvements made under the premise of the concept of the present invention all belong to the protection scope of the present invention.

[0047] The reagents used in this embodiment and the comparative example include:

[0048] High-efficiency scouring agent YR-300 was purchased from Qingdao Yinrui Chemical Co., Ltd.;

[0049] Refining agent 5529 was purchased from Zibo Dongjie Chemical Co., Ltd.;

[0050] 1:2 acid complex dyes were purchased from Yorkshire (Zhejiang) Dyeing and Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0051] Example 1

[0052] This embodiment provides a method for preparing a warm and breathable, antibacterial, anti-mite and anti-static cashmere coat lining, comprising the following steps:

[0053] S1, select 22D mulberry silk for twisting, the twist number is 2200, the twist direction is 2S2Z, and the yarn is obtained;

[0054] S2, weft knitting the yarn to obtain 25 momme, 22D / 3 (warp strips) × 22D / 5 (weft strips), 128 (warp density) × 46 (weft density) plain crepe satin;

[0055] S3, using the loose degumming method, at 98 ° C, the plain crepe satin was degummed in a refining tank for 240 minutes, and the degumming rate was controlled to be 21%; the degumming liquid used included: water, baking soda 5.5g / L, soda ash 5.5g / L, high-efficiency scouring agent YR-3005.5g / L, fast scouring agent S-35 5.5g / L, high-efficiency penetrant YR-200 3.7g / L, wax remover LR 1.8g / L, degreasing agent OZCN 1.8g / L, insurance powder 3.7g / L, chelating dispersant DS-45 0.8g / L; pH was 10;

[0056] S4, dyeing was performed at 90°C for 120 minutes using a constant tension jigger, using water, Newtralan Red K-RL 1% owf, and acetic acid 1 g / L; the pH of the dye solution was 4.5;

[0057] S5. Under hot and humid conditions, pre-shrink the dyed fabric to reduce the shrinkage of the fabric after immersion in water to reduce shrinkage. The warp shrinkage of the pre-shrinked fabric is controlled to be 3% of the national standard to prevent shrinkage of the garment.

[0058] S6. Dry the pre-shrunk fabric using a silk multi-roller dryer at a drying temperature of 120°C and a speed of 20m / min;

[0059] S7, drying the dried fabric at 110℃, speed 20m / min; stretching and shaping at 100℃, speed 30m / min for finishing, and then obtaining the warm and breathable, antibacterial, anti-mite and anti-static cashmere coat lining. Figure 1 shown.

[0060] Example 2

[0061] The preparation method of this embodiment is basically the same as that of Embodiment 1, except that the degumming rate is controlled to be 23% in step S3.

[0062] Comparative Example 1

[0063] The preparation method of this comparative example is basically the same as that of Example 1, except that the degumming rate in step S3 is controlled to be 15%.

[0064] Comparative Example 2

[0065] The preparation method of this comparative example is basically the same as that of Example 1, except that the degumming rate in step S3 is controlled to be 30%.

[0066] Comparative Example 3

[0067] The preparation method of this comparative example is substantially the same as that of Example 1, except that the high-efficiency scouring agent YR-300 is omitted in step S3.

[0068] Specifically, step S3, using a loose degumming method, at 98° C., the plain crepe satin is degummed in a refining tank for 240 minutes, and the degumming rate is controlled to be 21%; the degumming liquid used includes: water, baking soda 5.5g / L, soda ash 5.5g / L, rapid refining agent S-35 5.5g / L, high-efficiency penetrant YR-200 3.7g / L, wax remover LR 1.8g / L, degreasing agent OZCN 1.8g / L, insurance powder 3.7g / L, chelating dispersant DS-45 0.8g / L; pH is 10.

[0069] Comparative Example 4

[0070] The preparation method of this comparative example is basically the same as that of Example 1, except that the high-efficiency scouring agent YR-300 is replaced by scouring agent 5529 in step S3.

[0071] Specifically, step S3, using a loose degumming method, at 98° C., the plain crepe satin is degummed in a refining tank for 240 minutes, and the degumming rate is controlled to be 21%; the degumming liquid used includes: water, baking soda 5.5 g / L, soda ash 5.5 g / L, refining agent 55295.5 g / L, rapid refining agent S-35 5.5 g / L, high-efficiency penetrant YR-200 3.7 g / L, dewaxing agent LR 1.8 g / L, degreasing agent OZCN 1.8 g / L, insurance powder 3.7 g / L, chelating dispersant DS-450.8 g / L; pH is 10.

[0072] Comparative Example 5

[0073] The preparation method of this comparative example is basically the same as that of Example 1, except that, in step S4, dyeing is performed at 90° C. using a constant tension jigger for 120 minutes, and the acid dye used includes: water, 1% owf of a 1:1 acid complex dye, and 1 g / L of acetic acid; and the pH is 4.5.

[0074] Performance Testing

[0075] The samples prepared in Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-5 were tested according to the following standards, and the test results are shown in Table 1.

[0076] GBT 5713-2013 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to water;

[0077] GBT 3921-2008 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to washing with soap;

[0078] GBT3922-2013 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to perspiration;

[0079] GBT 3920-2008 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to rubbing;

[0080] GBT8427 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to artificial light;

[0081] GBT14684-2011 Test method for color fastness of textiles to washing with bleach;

[0082] GBT3923.1-2013 Tensile properties of textile fabrics Part 1: Determination of breaking strength and elongation at break (strip method);

[0083] GBT4802.1-2008 Determination of fabric pilling properties

[0084] GBT 13772.2-2008 Determination of the slip resistance of yarns at the seams of textile woven fabrics. The results of this seam slip test standard are the basis for determining the fabric slippage. The test results of Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-3 are as follows: Figure 2-6 shown.

[0085] The gloss and soft feel are manually inspected by inspectors. The specific method is as follows:

[0086] a) The fabrics obtained in Examples 1-2 were used as comparative fabrics; the inspectors compared Comparative Examples 1-5 with Examples 1-2 to test the effect of the degumming rate on the gloss and feel of the silk crepe satin;

[0087] Visual inspection of gloss: The inspector visually inspects the product three or more times, alternating between left and right, and comparing the product with the soft reflection.

[0088] Touch test for soft feel: The inspector touches the fabric alternately for more than 3 times with the same hand to compare the difference in feel of the fabric;

[0089] b) Each roll of fabric is randomly inspected 20 times, with an area of ​​30×30cm as the unit inspection area for each inspection. The scores are averaged and recorded in Table 1. The higher the score, the better the gloss and softness of the fabric. The scoring criteria are as follows:

[0090] 1 point: The gloss and softness are obviously inferior to the comparison fabric, which has a significant impact on sales;

[0091] 2 points: The gloss and softness are not as good as the comparison fabric, and there are easily distinguishable differences, so it needs to be sold at a lower grade;

[0092] 3 points: The gloss and softness are slightly inferior to the comparison fabric. There seems to be a difference if you look closely, but there is no need to downgrade;

[0093] 4 points: The gloss and soft feel are slightly the same as the comparison fabric, and no downgrading is required.

[0094] Table 1 Performance test results of Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-5

[0095]

[0096]

[0097] In summary, as shown in Table 1, compared with Example 1, Comparative Examples 1-2, the degumming rate used in Comparative Example 1 is too low, resulting in a significant decrease in the gloss, softness, color fastness and other properties of the fabric; the degumming rate used in Comparative Example 2 is too high, resulting in a significant decrease in the breaking strength, suture slippage and other properties of the fabric, especially the suture slippage is long, that is, the occurrence of cracks. Compared with Example 1, Comparative Example 3 does not add the high-efficiency scouring agent YR-300, and Comparative Example 4 uses the conventional scouring agent 5529, resulting in a significant decrease in the gloss, anti-pilling, soft feel and other properties of the fabric. Compared with Example 1, Comparative Example 5 uses conventional acid dyes, resulting in a decrease in the color fastness, friction fastness and other properties of the fabric.

[0098] The above describes the specific embodiments of the present invention. It should be understood that the present invention is not limited to the above specific embodiments, and those skilled in the art may make various modifications or variations within the scope of the claims, which do not affect the essence of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for preparing a warm, breathable, antibacterial, anti-mite and anti-static cashmere coat lining, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: S1, twisting the mulberry silk to obtain yarn; S2, weaving the yarn to obtain plain crepe satin; The weave structure of the plain crepe satin is a satin weave; S3, degumming, dyeing, pre-shrinking, drying and finishing the plain crepe satin to obtain the coat lining; The degumming rate of the degumming is 21-23%; The dyeing agent used in the dyeing is Newtralan acid dye.

2. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S1, the yarn count range of the yarn is 44-110D, and the yarn is composed of a plurality of mulberry silks with a fineness range of 20-25D.

3. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S1, the twisting number of the twisting is 2200-2700, and the twist direction is 2S2Z.

4. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S2, the weaving method includes weaving; the gram weight of the plain crepe satin is 16-25 momme.

5. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S3, the degumming temperature is 95-100° C., and the degumming time is 240-300 minutes.

6. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that: The degumming liquid used in the degumming process comprises: water and a degumming aid, wherein the degumming aid comprises 5.5-6.5 g / L baking soda, 5.5-6.5 g / L soda ash, 5.5-6.5 g / L high-efficiency scouring agent YR-300, 5.5-6.5 g / L fast scouring agent S-35, 3.7-4.3 g / L high-efficiency penetrant YR-200, 1.8-2.2 g / L wax remover LR, 1.8-2.2 g / L oil remover OZCN, 3.7-4.3 g / L sodium dithionite, and 0.8-1.2 g / L chelating dispersant DS-45; the pH value of the degumming liquid is 10-11.

7. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S3, the dyeing is performed using a constant tension dyeing machine, and the Newtralan acid dye includes water, Newtralan dye 0.1-2.5% owf, and acetic acid 1-2 g / L; the pH of the Newtralan acid dye is 4.5-5.

5.

8. The preparation method according to claim 7, characterized in that: The Newtralan dye includes one of Newtralan Red K-RL, Newtralan Yellow K-NW and Newtralan Gray K-BL.

9. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S3, the dyeing temperature is 90-95° C., and the dyeing time is 120-180 minutes; the warp shrinkage of the fabric after pre-shrinkage does not exceed the national standard of 3%.

10. A warm and breathable, antibacterial, anti-mite and anti-static cashmere coat lining obtained by the preparation method according to any one of claims 1 to 9.

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