Double-layer four-way stretch fabric and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The invention discloses a double-layer four-way stretch fabric and a preparation method thereof, and belongs to the technical field of textile fabric production. The double-layer warp is composed of surface layer warp and inner layer warp, and the surface layer warp is formed by blending cotton and lyocell fibers. The warp yarns of the inner layer are blended by polyester filament yarns and spandex yarns; the weft yarns consist of spandex yarns, cotton and polyester staple fibers; the number of the warps on the surface layer is 60-70 tex, the number of the warps on the inner layer is 8-10 tex, and the warp density of the double-layer warps is 381-391 pieces per 10 cm; the number of the weft yarns is 58.3-64.8 tex, and the weft-wise density is 161-172 pieces per 10 cm; comprising the following steps of spinning, warping, dyeing, leasing, slashing, drawing-in, weaving and finishing. The fabric has the advantages of no elasticity loss, no curling, softness and comfort.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of textile fabric production, and specifically relates to a double-layer four-way stretch fabric and a preparation method thereof. Background Art

[0002] The most common types of stretch denim fabrics are weft stretch and four-way stretch. The weft stretch type is a stretch denim fabric that is elastic in the weft direction by designing the weft yarn as elastic yarn. As the name suggests, four-way stretch fabric is a kind of fabric that has elasticity in both the top and bottom and left and right stretches. It can adapt to the activities of the human body, stretch and shrink at the same time, and is light and comfortable. The four-way stretch denim fabric is a four-way stretch denim fabric that is woven with elastic yarns for both the warp and weft yarns. The four-way stretch denim fabric commonly used in the market is mainly single-sided, which is difficult to meet the demand of people in modern society for colorful fabrics.

[0003] The four-way stretch denim fabric provided in the prior art has the following shortcomings: first, the four-way stretch denim fabric has problems such as loss of elasticity, curling, stiff hand feel, and discomfort; second, there is a waste of dyes and water resources; third, the weaving difficulty seriously affects the production efficiency and product quality. Summary of the invention

[0004] The technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to overcome the deficiencies of the prior art and provide a double-layer four-way stretch fabric and a preparation method thereof; the produced product has the advantages of no loss of elasticity, no curling, and is soft and comfortable.

[0005] The technical solution adopted by the present invention to solve the technical problem is: the double-layer warp yarn consists of a surface warp yarn and an inner warp yarn, the surface warp yarn is a blend of cotton and lyocell fiber; the inner warp yarn is a blend of polyester filament and spandex yarn; the weft yarn consists of spandex yarn, cotton and polyester staple fiber; the surface warp yarn number is 60-70tex, the inner warp yarn number is 8-10tex, the warp density of the double-layer warp yarn is 381-391 yarns / 10 cm; the weft yarn number is 58.3-64.8tex, and the weft density is 161-172 yarns / 10 cm.

[0006] The surface warp yarn is made of cotton and lyocell fiber blended, 9-count ring-spun slub yarn; and cotton and lyocell fiber blended, 9-count ring-spun non-slub yarn; the ratio of non-slub yarn to slub yarn is 1:3. The inner warp yarn is made of polyester filament 73~77D / 34~38F and spandex 18~22D; preferably, the inner warp yarn is made of polyester filament 75D / 36F and spandex 20D.

[0007] Ring-spun slubby yarn refers to the yarn that has an uneven appearance in the length direction through specific process technology during the ring spinning process. This feature is called "slubby".

[0008] The surface layer of the warp yarn is a blend of cotton and lyocell fibers, and the inner layer of the warp yarn is a blend of polyester filament and spandex yarn, wherein the spandex yarn is an elastic yarn; the surface layer of the double-layer four-way stretch fabric has the softness of lyocell fiber, and the inner layer does not need to be dyed and is environmentally friendly, thereby improving the creativity and environmental performance of the fabric; the double-layer four-way stretch fabric does not curl, does not lose elasticity, and is soft and comfortable.

[0009] The mass percentages of cotton and lyocell fibers in the surface layer are 80% and 20% respectively; both cotton and lyocell fibers have good moisture absorption and air permeability, so they have good air permeability and sweat absorption after blending, and can keep dry and comfortable; cotton and lyocell fibers are soft and comfortable after blending, and have good hand feel and wearing experience; Lyocell fibers control the fiber length, are not easy to pill after blending, and can maintain beauty for a long time; Lyocell fibers have good gloss properties, and can increase gloss after blending, making them look more textured; Lyocell fibers have good wrinkle resistance, and are not easy to wrinkle after blending.

[0010] The mass percentages of polyester filament and spandex filament in the inner warp yarn are 92% and 8% respectively; the polyester filament has high wear resistance and good recovery, is not easy to pilling and deformation, and can maintain a good shape and appearance; the polyester filament has high strength and can withstand large external forces without breaking easily. Adding spandex filament improves the elasticity of the fabric, making the clothes softer, more comfortable and less prone to wrinkles; spandex filament has good acid and alkali resistance and sweat resistance, and is suitable for use in a variety of environments. The invention has good seam slippage performance and tear strength performance.

[0011] The mass percentages of spandex, cotton and polyester staple fibers in the weft yarn are 3.6%, 33.74% and 62.66% respectively; the spandex yarn is 68-72D; preferably, the spandex yarn is 70D. The weft yarn is a core-spun yarn, including: a core yarn and an outer covering yarn, the core yarn is spandex, and the outer covering yarn is a blended yarn of cotton and polyester staple fibers. The addition of polyester makes it have better wrinkle resistance, so that the clothes can remain flat during wearing and are not prone to wrinkles; the polyester fiber has high strength and good wear resistance, so that the blended fabric is more durable during use and can withstand greater external forces. The addition of cotton fiber makes it more skin-friendly and comfortable, soft to the touch, and suitable for long-term wear.

[0012] The double-layer four-way stretch fabric has twill on the front and back sides, medium thickness, and clear texture; the medium thickness described in this application is between 11 and 14 oz.

[0013] The reed number of the double-layer warp yarn is 92~96 reeds / 10cm, and the reed width is 2000~2300mm. A large reed number can reduce the floating length of the weft yarn, thereby reducing the friction and wear of the weft yarn during the weaving process, reducing the weft breakage phenomenon, and improving the flatness and uniformity of the cloth surface. A wide reed width can increase the width of the cloth surface, make the weft yarn more evenly distributed during the weaving process, reduce the wavy phenomenon of the weft yarn, make the cloth surface smoother and more uniform in style; reduce the uneven tension of the weft yarn, so that it is smoother and has better gloss. A wide reed width can reduce the number of reed changes on the loom, simplify the operation process, and thus improve production efficiency. Use reasonable warp yarn models, weft yarn models, double-layer warp density, weft density, large reed number and wide reed width to make the texture clear.

[0014] The surface warp yarn twist is 50-55 twists / 10cm, and the weft yarn twist is 50-60 twists / 10cm; the inner warp yarn has no twist, the surface warp yarn is thick, and the inner warp yarn is thin. The surface warp yarn can cover the inner warp yarn, the surface warp yarn is inelastic, and the inner warp yarn is elastic, and the shrinkage rate is more stable.

[0015] Preferably, the surface warp twist is 53 twists / 10cm, and the weft twist is 56 twists / 10cm; the preferred warp twist has higher strength, which makes the fabric have better stretchability and stability in the warp direction. At the same time, the preferred warp twist also helps to improve the sag, making it smoother and crisper. The preferred weft twist makes the weft fuller and softer, and this softness helps to improve comfort and hand feel. In addition, the preferred weft twist helps to reduce the breakage rate during weft weaving, thereby improving production efficiency.

[0016] The present invention also provides a method for preparing a double-layer four-sided stretch fabric, comprising the following steps: spinning → warping → dyeing → warp separation → sizing → warp drawing → weaving → finishing; (1) Spinning: winding, cleaning and combing → drawing → coarse sand → fine yarn → winding; (2) Warping: The warp yarn is made into bundle yarn by the ball warping machine and wound on the ball shaft; (3) Dyeing: warp beam → scouring tank → washing tank → dyeing tank → washing tank → softener tank; (4) Warp division: The dyed warp yarn is divided into single yarns and wound parallel to the warp division beam; (5) Sizing: Use a sizing machine to size the dyed yarn and make it into a weaving shaft; (6) Drawing in: Use a heald frame with 6 to 10 drop wire rows; (7) Weaving: Weaving using a rapier loom; (8) Finishing: singeing → desizing → shrinkage prevention.

[0017] The dropper threading method is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; 4 ground warps are inserted into each reed, and 4 side yarns are inserted into each reed; the ground weave adopts 3 / 1+1 / 1, and the side weave adopts 2 / 2 warp weight. The ground warp threading sequence is 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and the number of side yarns on both sides is 48; the side weave threading method is: left side (1, 2, 1, 2) × 12, 4 per reed; right side (2, 1, 2, 1) × 12, 4 per reed. By designing the side weave structure with 48 side yarns on both sides, the effect of relatively easy weaving is achieved.

[0018] The spinning process produces 64.8tex bobbin yarn; the warping speed is 230~250m / min, the ball warp structure has 494 ground axles / bundle×2 axles, 494 axles / bundle×6 axles; 3952 celestial axles, and the single yarn tension is 20~30cN / ax.

[0019] The dyeing dye is composed of 1.0-2.0g / L indigo powder, 3.5-3.8g / L indigo base liquid alkali content, 1.0-1.2g / L insurance powder, 4.0-5.0g / L scouring alkali, 70-80g / L citric acid, 3-7g / L pickling tank penetrant, 40-50g / L softener, and 6-8% regain; the inner warp yarn does not need to be dyed, which can save water resources and dyes. The inner warp yarn is not dyed to avoid the occurrence of friction and dyeing with other clothes, so that it has higher wear resistance. The insurance powder is sodium dithionite, the scouring alkali is sodium hydroxide, the penetrant is Zhongda penetrant ZD-138, and the softener is Wozhi softener, model T-106.

[0020] Dyeing: Use rope dyeing machine for dyeing, the process flow is: ball beam → scouring tank → washing tank → dyeing tank → washing tank → softener tank; the dyeing speed is 15~25m / min.

[0021] Warping: The dyed warp yarns are divided into single yarns through a warping machine and wound in parallel on the warping beams. The speed is 140~160m / min and the single yarn tension is 70cN / strand.

[0022] The sizing process is double-sizing and double-pressing, and the sizing rate is 7-10%. The sizing formula is calculated by weight: 100 parts of corn starch, 4 parts of propylene and 4 parts of oil, with a solid content of 11.5%, and water is used as the solvent.

[0023] Sizing: The dyed yarn is sized by a sizing machine to make a weaving shaft; in order to better fit the hairiness and improve the wear resistance, a double-sizing and double-pressing process is adopted, with a machine speed of 40~45m / min and a sizing rate of 8~11%, which can effectively improve the wear resistance and tensile strength of the yarn while ensuring the softness and smoothness of the yarn; the moisture regain is 10~12%, the viscosity is 6~8s, the elongation is 0.5~1.5%, the sizing pot temperature is 95~100℃, the pH value is 6~8, the drying cylinder temperature is 120~130℃, and the combined drying cylinder temperature is 110~130℃.

[0024] Weaving: The rapier loom is used at a speed of 450-550 r / min, a rear beam height of 90-100 mm, an opening time of 305-315°, and a machine tension of 3000-4000 N. The rapier loom can solve the defects of weft shrinkage and centipedes through reasonable adjustment and maintenance. Centipedes refer to the phenomenon that twill or satin fabrics on woven printed and dyed fabrics lack 1-2 weft yarns in a complete structure; the weaving workshop temperature is 18-24°C and the relative humidity is 70-75%.

[0025] Finishing: singeing → desizing → shrinkage prevention, cloth feeding order: two positive and one negative, three burners; the shrinkage prevention speed is 40~50m / min, and the singeing adopts a natural gas singeing machine; the singeing machine speed is 75~85m / min, the flame temperature is 950~1050℃, the steam pressure of the rubber blanket cylinder is 0.2~0.4MPa, and the steam pressure of the wool blanket cylinder is 0.4~0.6MPa; by controlling the parameters of temperature, humidity and pressure during the pre-shrinking process, the precise adjustment of the fabric size is achieved to meet the pre-shrinkage requirements of denim plaid fabrics; the rubber blanket cylinder and the wool blanket cylinder provide important guarantees for the dimensional stability and wearing comfort of textiles through their unique pre-shrinking finishing functions.

[0026] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects: 1. The warp yarn of the present invention is a double-layer warp yarn. The spandex yarn of the inner warp yarn and the spandex yarn of the weft yarn are both elastic. The double-layer warp yarn and the weft yarn are interwoven to form a three-dimensional elastic net with high resilience and no loss of elasticity. The surface warp yarn is blended with cotton and lyocell fiber, and the weft yarn is blended with cotton and polyester staple fiber to make it soft to the touch and comfortable to wear. The edge weave insertion method: the left side is (1, 2, 1, 2) × 12, 4 threads are inserted into each reed; the right side is (2, 1, 2, 1) × 12, 4 threads are inserted into each reed, which solves the problem of curling.

[0027] 2. The present invention is a double-layer warp yarn. When dyeing, only the surface warp yarn needs to be dyed, and the inner warp yarn does not need to be dyed. Therefore, water resources and dyes can be saved.

[0028] 3. The present invention adopts reasonable warp yarn model, weft yarn model, double-layer warp density, weft density, large reed number and wide reed width to make the texture clear.

[0029] 4. The ground warp threading sequence designed by the present invention is 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 in sequence, and the number of side yarns on both sides is 48; this method is easy to weave and improves production efficiency. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0030] Figure 1 It is a schematic diagram of the organizational structure of the denim plaid fabric of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0031] Embodiment 1 is the best embodiment of the present invention, and the present invention will be further described below in conjunction with specific embodiments and comparative examples.

[0032] The chemical additives used in the examples and comparative examples of the present invention are all commercially available, and their specific information is as follows: Cotton: purchased from Tianhong Textile Group; Lyocell fiber: Guangdong Yuexin Textile Technology Co., Ltd.; polyester filament: Guangdong Yuexin Textile Technology Co., Ltd.; polyester staple fiber: Guangdong Yuexin Textile Technology Co., Ltd.; spandex yarn: Guangdong Yuexin Textile Technology Co., Ltd.; sodium dithionite: purchased from Shandong Xinxiong Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; sodium hydroxide: purchased from Jinan Shunyang Chemical Technology Co., Ltd.; penetrant ZD-138: purchased from Qingdao Zhongda Kesheng Textile Materials Co., Ltd.; Wozhi softener: model T-106, purchased from Shandong Wozhi Trading Co., Ltd.; rope dyeing machine, purchased from Taizhou Tongjiang Washing Machinery Factory; ball warping machine, purchased from Oriental Chemical Glass (Beijing) Technology Co., Ltd.; rapier loom, purchased from Fuyang Xiaolin Technology Development Co., Ltd.; sizing machine, purchased from Beijing Haifuda Technology Co., Ltd.; pre-shrinking machine: purchased from Germany Menfus.

[0033] Example 1 A double-layer four-sided stretch fabric, the organization structure diagram is as follows Figure 1 As shown, the vertical direction represents the longitude, the horizontal direction is the latitude, and ❌ represents the longitude floating point; The warp yarn is a double-layer warp yarn, consisting of a surface warp yarn and an inner warp yarn. The surface warp yarn is a blend of 80% cotton and 20% lyocell fiber, 9-count ring-spun slub yarn, 80% cotton and 20% lyocell fiber blended, and 9-count ring-spun non-slub yarn; the ratio of non-slub yarn to slub yarn is 1:3; the inner warp yarn is a blend of 75D / 36F polyester filament and 20D spandex yarn, and the mass percentages of polyester filament and spandex yarn in the inner warp yarn are 92% and 8% respectively; the weft yarn is 70D The spandex yarn of the grid and the 10-count ring-spun slub yarn are used as the yarns; the mass percentages of spandex yarn, cotton and polyester staple fibers in the weft yarn are 3.6%, 33.74% and 62.66% respectively; the surface warp yarn number is 65tex, the inner warp yarn number is 9tex, and the double-layer warp density is 386 strands / 10cm; the weft yarn number is 61.5tex, and the weft density is 166 strands / 10cm; the surface warp yarn twist is 53 twists / 10cm, and the weft yarn twist is 56 twists / 10cm; The preparation method comprises the following steps: (1) Spinning: winding, cleaning and combing → drawing → coarse sand → fine yarn → winding; (2) Warping: The bobbin yarn is made into a bundle of warp yarns through a ball warping machine and wound on a ball axis. The warping speed is 240 m / min. The ball warp structure has 494 ground axes / bundle × 2 axes, 494 axes / bundle × 6 axes, 3952 sky axes, and a single yarn tension of 25 cN / axis. (3) Dyeing: warp beam → scouring tank → washing tank → dyeing tank → washing tank → softener tank; the dye for dyeing is composed of 1.5g / L indigo powder, 3.6g / L indigo base liquid alkali content, 1.1g / L insurance powder, 4.5g / L scouring alkali, 75g / L citric acid, 5g / L pickling tank penetrant, 45g / L softener, and 7% regain; (4) Warp division: The dyed bundled warp yarn is divided into single yarns and wound in parallel on the warp division beam at a speed of 150 m / min and a single yarn tension of 70 cN / strand; (5) Sizing: Use a sizing machine to size the dyed yarn and make a weaving shaft; the sizing machine speed is 43m / min, the sizing rate is 9%, the moisture regain is 11%, the viscosity is 7s, the elongation is 1.0%, the temperature of the sizing pot is 97℃, the pH value is 7, the drying cylinder temperature is 125℃, and the combined drying cylinder temperature is 120℃; (6) Warp drawing: Use a heald frame, the number of dropper rows is 8; the dropper drawing method is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; 4 ground warps are inserted into each reed, and 4 side yarns are inserted into each reed; the ground weave adopts 3 / 1+1 / 1, and the side weave adopts 2 / 2 warp weight; the ground warp drawing sequence is 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and the number of side yarns on both sides is 48; side weave drawing method: left side (1, 2, 1, 2) × 12, 4 insertions per reed; right side (2, 1, 2, 1) × 12, 4 insertions per reed; (7) Weaving: Weaving is done using a rapier loom; the speed is 500 r / min, the back beam height is 95 mm, the opening time is 310°, the upper machine tension is 3500 N, the weaving workshop temperature is 21°C, and the relative humidity is 73%; (8) Finishing: singeing → desizing → shrinkage prevention; cloth feeding order: two positive and one negative, three burners; the shrinkage prevention machine speed is 45m / min, and the singeing adopts a natural gas singeing machine; the singeing machine speed is 80m / min, the flame temperature is 1000℃, the rubber blanket cylinder steam pressure is 0.3MPa, and the wool blanket cylinder steam pressure is 0.5MPa.

[0034] Example 2 The preparation method is the same as that in Example 1, except that the surface warp yarn number of this embodiment is 60tex, the inner warp yarn number is 8tex, and the double-layer warp density is 381 yarns / 10 cm; the weft yarn number is 58.3tex, and the weft density is 161 yarns / 10 cm; the warp yarn twist is 50 twists / 10cm, and the weft yarn twist is 50 twists / 10cm.

[0035] Example 3 The preparation method is the same as that in Example 1, except that the surface warp yarn number of this embodiment is 70tex, the inner warp yarn number is 10tex, and the double-layer warp density is 391 yarns / 10 cm; the weft yarn number is 64.8tex, and the weft density is 172 yarns / 10 cm; the warp yarn twist is 55 twists / 10cm, and the weft yarn twist is 60 twists / 10cm.

[0036] Example 4 A double-layer four-way stretch fabric, the warp yarn is a double-layer warp yarn, composed of a surface warp yarn and an inner warp yarn, the surface warp yarn is made of a blend of 80% cotton and 20% lyocell fiber, 9-spindle slub yarn, 80% cotton and 20% lyocell fiber blended, 9-spindle non-slub yarn; the ratio of non-slub yarn to slub yarn is 1:3; the inner warp yarn is made of a blend of 75D / 36F polyester filament and 20D spandex yarn, the mass percentages of polyester filament and spandex yarn in the inner warp yarn are 92% and 8% respectively; the weft yarn is made of Use 70D spandex yarn and 10-count ring-spun slub yarn; the mass percentages of spandex yarn, cotton and polyester staple fibers in the weft yarn are 3.6%, 33.74% and 62.66% respectively; the surface warp yarn number is 65tex, the inner warp yarn number is 9tex, and the double-layer warp density is 386 strands / 10cm; the weft yarn number is 61.5tex, and the weft density is 166 strands / 10cm; the surface warp yarn twist is 53 twists / 10cm, and the weft yarn twist is 56 twists / 10cm; The preparation method comprises the following steps: (1) Spinning: winding, cleaning and combing → drawing → coarse sand → fine yarn → winding; (2) Warping: The bobbin yarn is made into a bundle of warp yarns through a ball warping machine and wound on a ball axis; the warping machine speed is 230 m / min, the ball warp organization has 494 ground axes / bundle × 2 axes, 494 axes / bundle × 6 axes; the sky axes have 3952 axes, and the single yarn tension is 20 cN / axis; (3) Dyeing: warp beam → scouring tank → washing tank → dyeing tank → washing tank → softener tank; the dye for dyeing is composed of 1.5g / L indigo powder, 3.6g / L indigo base liquid alkali content, 1.1g / L insurance powder, 4.5g / L scouring alkali, 75g / L citric acid, 5g / L pickling tank penetrant, 45g / L softener, and 7% regain; (4) Warp division: The dyed bundled warp yarn is divided into single yarns and wound parallel to the warp division beam; the speed is 140m / min, and the single yarn tension is 70cN / strand; (5) Sizing: Use a sizing machine to size the dyed yarn and make it into a weaving shaft; the sizing machine speed is 40m / min, and the sizing rate is 9%, which can effectively improve the wear resistance and tensile strength of the yarn, while ensuring the softness and smoothness of the yarn; the moisture regain is 11%, the viscosity is 7s, the elongation is 1.0%, the sizing pot temperature is 97℃, the pH value is 7, the drying cylinder temperature is 125℃, and the combined drying cylinder temperature is 120℃; (6) Drawing in: Use a heald frame, and the number of dropper rows is 6; the drawing in method of the dropper is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; 4 ground warps are inserted into each reed, and 4 side yarns are inserted into each reed; the ground weave adopts 3 / 1+1 / 1, and the side weave adopts 2 / 2 warp weight; the drawing in order of the ground warp is 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and the number of side yarns on both sides is 48; the drawing in method of the side weave: left side (1, 2, 1, 2) × 12, 4 insertions per reed; right side (2, 1, 2, 1) × 12, 4 insertions per reed; (7) Weaving: Weaving is done using a rapier loom; the speed is 450 r / min, the back beam height is 90 mm, the opening time is 305°, the upper machine tension is 3000 N, the weaving workshop temperature is 18 °C and the relative humidity is 70%; (8) Finishing: singeing → desizing → shrinkage prevention; cloth feeding order: two positive and one negative, three burners; the shrinkage prevention machine speed is 40m / min, and the singeing adopts a natural gas singeing machine; the singeing machine speed is 75m / min, the flame temperature is 950℃, the rubber blanket cylinder steam pressure is 0.2MPa, and the wool blanket cylinder steam pressure is 0.4MPa.

[0037] Example 5 A double-layer four-way stretch fabric, the warp yarn is a double-layer warp yarn, composed of a surface warp yarn and an inner warp yarn, the surface warp yarn is made of a blend of 80% cotton and 20% lyocell fiber, 9-spindle slub yarn, 80% cotton and 20% lyocell fiber blended, 9-spindle non-slub yarn; the ratio of non-slub yarn to slub yarn is 1:3; the inner warp yarn is made of a blend of 75D / 36F polyester filament and 20D spandex yarn, the mass percentages of polyester filament and spandex yarn in the inner warp yarn are 92% and 8% respectively; the weft yarn is made of Use 70D spandex yarn and 10-count ring-spun slub yarn; the mass percentages of spandex yarn, cotton and polyester staple fibers in the weft yarn are 3.6%, 33.74% and 62.66% respectively; the surface warp yarn number is 65tex, the inner warp yarn number is 9tex, and the double-layer warp density is 386 strands / 10cm; the weft yarn number is 61.5tex, and the weft density is 166 strands / 10cm; the surface warp yarn twist is 53 twists / 10cm, and the weft yarn twist is 56 twists / 10cm; The preparation method comprises the following steps: (1) Spinning: winding, cleaning and combing → drawing → coarse sand → fine yarn → winding; (2) Warping: The warp yarn is made into bundle yarn by the ball warping machine and wound on the ball axis; the warping speed is 250m / min, the ground axis of the ball warp organization is 494 yarns / bundle×2 axis, 494 yarns / bundle×6 axis; the sky axis is 3952 yarns, and the single yarn tension is 30cN / yarn; (3) Dyeing: warp beam → scouring tank → washing tank → dyeing tank → washing tank → softener tank; the dye for dyeing is composed of 1.5g / L indigo powder, 3.6g / L indigo base liquid alkali content, 1.1g / L insurance powder, 4.5g / L scouring alkali, 75g / L citric acid, 5g / L pickling tank penetrant, 45g / L softener, and 7% regain; (4) Warp division: The dyed bundled warp yarn is divided into single yarns and wound parallel to the warp division beam; the speed is 160m / min, and the single yarn tension is 70cN / strand; (5) Sizing: Use a sizing machine to size the dyed yarn and make it into a weaving shaft; the sizing machine speed is 45m / min, and the sizing rate is 9%, which can effectively improve the wear resistance and tensile strength of the yarn, while ensuring the softness and smoothness of the yarn; the moisture regain is 11%, the viscosity is 7s, the elongation is 1.0%, the sizing pot temperature is 97℃, the pH value is 7, the drying cylinder temperature is 125℃, and the combined drying cylinder temperature is 120℃; (6) Warp drawing: Use a heald frame, the number of dropper rows is 10; the dropper drawing method is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; 4 ground warps are inserted into each reed, and 4 side yarns are inserted into each reed; the ground weave adopts 3 / 1+1 / 1, and the side weave adopts 2 / 2 warp weight; the ground warp drawing sequence is 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and the number of side yarns on both sides is 48; side weave drawing method: left side (1, 2, 1, 2) × 12, 4 insertions per reed; right side (2, 1, 2, 1) × 12, 4 insertions per reed; (7) Weaving: Weaving was performed using a rapier loom; the speed was 550 r / min, the back beam height was 100 mm, the opening time was 315°, the upper machine tension was 4000 N, the weaving workshop temperature was 24°C and the relative humidity was 75%; (8) Finishing: singeing → desizing → shrinkage prevention; cloth feeding order: two positive and one negative, three burners; the shrinkage prevention speed is 50m / min, and the singeing adopts a natural gas singeing machine; the singeing machine speed is 85m / min, the flame temperature is 1050℃, the rubber blanket cylinder steam pressure is 0.4MPa, and the wool blanket cylinder steam pressure is 0.6MPa.

[0038] Example 6 A double-layer four-way stretch fabric, the warp yarn is a double-layer warp yarn, composed of a surface warp yarn and an inner warp yarn, the surface warp yarn is a blend of 80% cotton and 20% lyocell fiber, 9-spindle slub yarn, 80% cotton / 20% lyocell fiber blended, 9-spindle non-slub yarn; the ratio of non-slub yarn to slub yarn is 1:3; the inner warp yarn is a blend of 75D / 36F polyester filament and 20D spandex yarn, the mass percentages of polyester filament and spandex yarn in the inner warp yarn are 92% and 8% respectively; the weft yarn is Use 70D spandex yarn and 10-count ring-spun slub yarn; the mass percentages of spandex yarn, cotton and polyester staple fibers in the weft yarn are 3.6%, 33.74% and 62.66% respectively; the surface warp yarn number is 65tex, the inner warp yarn number is 9tex, and the double-layer warp density is 386 strands / 10cm; the weft yarn number is 61.5tex, and the weft density is 166 strands / 10cm; the surface warp yarn twist is 53 twists / 10cm, and the weft yarn twist is 56 twists / 10cm; The preparation method comprises the following steps: (1) Spinning: winding, cleaning and combing → drawing → coarse sand → fine yarn → winding; (2) Warping: The bobbin yarn is made into a bundle of warp yarns through a ball warping machine and wound on a ball axis. The warping speed is 240 m / min. The ball warp structure has 494 ground axes / bundle × 2 axes, 494 axes / bundle × 6 axes, 3952 sky axes, and a single yarn tension of 25 cN / axis. (3) Dyeing: warp beam → scouring tank → washing tank → dyeing tank → washing tank → softener tank; the dye is composed of 1.0g / L indigo powder, 3.5g / L indigo base liquid alkali content, 1.0g / L insurance powder, 4.0g / L scouring alkali, 70g / L citric acid, 3g / L pickling tank penetrant, 40g / L softener, and 6% regain; (4) Warp division: The dyed bundled warp yarn is divided into single yarns and wound in parallel on the warp division beam at a speed of 150 m / min and a single yarn tension of 70 cN / strand; (5) Sizing: Use a sizing machine to size the dyed yarn and make a weaving shaft; the sizing machine speed is 40m / min, the sizing rate is 7%, the moisture regain is 10%, the viscosity is 6s, the elongation is 0.5%, the temperature of the sizing pot is 95℃, the pH value is 6, the drying cylinder temperature is 120℃, and the combined drying cylinder temperature is 110℃; (6) Warp drawing: Use a heald frame, the number of dropper rows is 8; the dropper drawing method is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; 4 ground warps are inserted into each reed, and 4 side yarns are inserted into each reed; the ground weave adopts 3 / 1+1 / 1, and the side weave adopts 2 / 2 warp weight; the ground warp drawing sequence is 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and the number of side yarns on both sides is 48; side weave drawing method: left side (1, 2, 1, 2) × 12, 4 insertions per reed; right side (2, 1, 2, 1) × 12, 4 insertions per reed; (7) Weaving: Weaving is done using a rapier loom; the speed is 500 r / min, the back beam height is 95 mm, the opening time is 310°, the upper machine tension is 3500 N, the weaving workshop temperature is 21°C, and the relative humidity is 73%; (8) Finishing: singeing → desizing → shrinkage prevention; cloth feeding order: two positive and one negative, three burners; the shrinkage prevention machine speed is 45m / min, and the singeing adopts a natural gas singeing machine; the singeing machine speed is 80m / min, the flame temperature is 1000℃, the rubber blanket cylinder steam pressure is 0.3MPa, and the wool blanket cylinder steam pressure is 0.5MPa.

[0039] Example 7 A double-layer four-way stretch fabric, the warp yarn is a double-layer warp yarn, composed of a surface warp yarn and an inner warp yarn, the surface warp yarn is made of a blend of 80% cotton / 20% lyocell fiber, 9-spindle slub yarn, 80% cotton and 20% lyocell fiber blended, 9-spindle non-slub yarn; the ratio of non-slub yarn to slub yarn is 1:3; the inner warp yarn is made of a blend of 75D / 36F polyester filament and 20D spandex yarn, the mass percentages of polyester filament and spandex yarn in the inner warp yarn are 92% and 8% respectively; the weft yarn is made of Use 70D spandex yarn and 10-count ring-spun slub yarn; the mass percentages of spandex yarn, cotton and polyester staple fibers in the weft yarn are 3.6%, 33.74% and 62.66% respectively; the surface warp yarn number is 65tex, the inner warp yarn number is 9tex, and the double-layer warp density is 386 strands / 10cm; the weft yarn number is 61.5tex, and the weft density is 166 strands / 10cm; the surface warp yarn twist is 53 twists / 10cm, and the weft yarn twist is 56 twists / 10cm; The preparation method comprises the following steps: (1) Spinning: winding, cleaning and combing → drawing → coarse sand → fine yarn → winding; (2) Warping: The bobbin yarn is made into a bundle of warp yarns through a ball warping machine and wound on a ball axis. The warping speed is 240 m / min. The ball warp structure has 494 ground axes / bundle × 2 axes, 494 axes / bundle × 6 axes, 3952 sky axes, and a single yarn tension of 25 cN / axis. (3) Dyeing: warp beam → scouring tank → washing tank → dyeing tank → washing tank → softener tank; the dye is composed of 2.0g / L indigo powder, 3.8g / L indigo base liquid alkali content, 1.2g / L insurance powder, 5.0g / L scouring alkali, 80g / L citric acid, 7g / L pickling tank penetrant, 50g / L softener, and 8% regain; (4) Warp division: The dyed bundled warp yarn is divided into single yarns and wound in parallel on the warp division beam at a speed of 150 m / min and a single yarn tension of 70 cN / strand; (5) Sizing: Use a sizing machine to size the dyed yarn and make a weaving shaft; the sizing machine speed is 45m / min, the sizing rate is 10%, the moisture regain is 12%, the viscosity is 8s, the elongation is 1.5%, the temperature of the sizing pot is 100℃, the pH value is 8, the drying cylinder temperature is 130℃, and the combined drying cylinder temperature is 130℃; (6) Warp drawing: Use a heald frame, the number of dropper rows is 8; the dropper drawing method is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; 4 ground warps are inserted into each reed, and 4 side yarns are inserted into each reed; the ground weave adopts 3 / 1+1 / 1, and the side weave adopts 2 / 2 warp weight; the ground warp drawing sequence is 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and the number of side yarns on both sides is 48; side weave drawing method: left side (1, 2, 1, 2) × 12, 4 insertions per reed; right side (2, 1, 2, 1) × 12, 4 insertions per reed; (7) Weaving: Weaving is done using a rapier loom; the speed is 500 r / min, the back beam height is 95 mm, the opening time is 310°, the upper machine tension is 3500 N, the weaving workshop temperature is 21°C, and the relative humidity is 73%; (8) Finishing: singeing → desizing → shrinkage prevention; cloth feeding order: two positive and one negative, three burners; the shrinkage prevention machine speed is 45m / min, and the singeing adopts a natural gas singeing machine; the singeing machine speed is 80m / min, the flame temperature is 1000℃, the rubber blanket cylinder steam pressure is 0.3MPa, and the wool blanket cylinder steam pressure is 0.5MPa.

[0040] Comparative Example 1 The double-layer four-way stretch fabric described in this comparative example is the same as that in Example 1, except that the warp yarn is single-layered, and the warp yarn is a blend of 80% cotton and 20% lyocell fiber, 9-count ring-spun slub yarn; 80% cotton and 20% lyocell fiber are blended, 9-count ring-spun non-slub yarn; the ratio of non-slub yarn to slub yarn is 1:3.

[0041] Comparative Example 2 The double-layer four-way stretch fabric described in this comparative example is the same as that in Example 1, except that the warp yarn is a single layer, and the warp yarn is a blend of 75D / 36F polyester filament and 20D spandex yarn; the mass percentages of the polyester filament and the spandex yarn are 92% and 8% respectively.

[0042] Comparative Example 3 The double-layer four-way stretch fabric described in this comparative example is the same as that in Example 1, except that the weft yarn is 70D spandex yarn and 10-spindle ring-spun slub yarn; the mass percentages of spandex yarn, cotton and polyester staple fiber in the weft yarn are 3.6%, 67.48% and 28.92% respectively.

[0043] Comparative Example 4 The double-layer four-way stretch fabric described in this comparative example is the same as that in Example 1, except that the mass percentages of polyester filaments and spandex filaments in the inner warp yarn are 70% and 30% respectively.

[0044] Comparative Example 5 The double-layer four-way stretch fabric described in this comparative example is different from that in Example 1 only in that the edge weave insertion method is: left side (1, 1, 2, 2) × 12, 4 insertions per reed; right side (2, 2, 1, 1) × 12, 4 insertions per reed.

[0045] Performance Testing The double-layer four-way stretch fabrics prepared in the examples and comparative examples were subjected to performance tests, and the specific test results are shown in Table 1.

[0046] Double-layer four-way stretch fabric is tested according to ASTM D3107 (LEVI'S standard range: 12~13oz).

[0047] The warp shrinkage of double-layer four-way stretch fabrics is tested with reference to ASTMD3107 (LEVI'S standard range: -6~-2%).

[0048] The weft shrinkage of double-layer four-way stretch fabrics is tested with reference to ASTM D3107 (LEVI'S standard range: -9~-5%).

[0049] The breaking strength of double-layer four-way stretch fabric is tested with reference to ASTM D5034 (LEVI'S standard range: warp 730N, weft 840N).

[0050] The tear strength of double-layer four-way stretch fabric is tested with reference to ASTM D1424 (LEVI'S standard range: warp 70.5N, weft 70.4N).

[0051] The seam slippage of double-layer four-way stretch fabrics is tested with reference to ASTM D1683 (LEVI'S standard range: 107N).

[0052] Visual inspection was used to determine whether the double-layer four-way stretch fabric had any curling.

[0053] Table 1 Performance data of examples and comparative examples .

[0054] From Table 1 and Figure 1 It can be seen that the warp yarn of the present invention is a double-layer warp yarn, the inner warp yarn and the weft yarn are both elastic, and the double-layer warp yarn and the weft yarn are interwoven to form a three-dimensional elastic net with high resilience and no loss of elasticity; the cotton and lyocell fibers in the surface warp yarn make it soft to the touch and comfortable to wear. The special edge weave wearing method solves the problem of curling.

[0055] It can be seen from the results of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 that the use of a single-layer warp yarn will lead to a loss of elasticity and reduced wear resistance; it can be seen from the results of Comparative Example 3 that an increase in the mass percentage of cotton will lead to severe shrinkage; it can be seen from the results of Comparative Example 4 that an increase in the mass percentage of spandex yarn in the layer of warp yarn will lead to an increase in the weight of the cloth; it can be seen from the results of Comparative Example 5 that changing the edge weave threading method will lead to the occurrence of curling problems.

[0056] Obviously, the above embodiments of the present invention are merely examples for clearly illustrating the present invention, and are not limitations on the implementation methods of the present invention. For ordinary technicians in the relevant field, other different forms of changes or modifications can be made based on the above description. It is impossible to list all the implementation methods here. All obvious changes or modifications derived from the technical solution of the present invention are still within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A double-layer four-way stretch fabric, characterized in that: The double-layer warp yarn is composed of the surface warp yarn and the inner warp yarn. The surface warp yarn is a blend of cotton and lyocell fiber; the inner warp yarn is a blend of polyester filament and spandex yarn; the weft yarn is composed of spandex yarn, cotton and polyester staple fiber; the surface warp yarn number is 60~70tex, the inner warp yarn number is 8~10tex, and the warp density of the double-layer warp yarn is 381~391 strands / 10 cm; the weft yarn number is 58.3~64.8tex, and the weft density is 161~172 strands / 10 cm.

2. The double-layer four-way stretch fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The mass percentages of cotton and lyocell fiber in the surface warp yarn are 80% and 20% respectively.

3. The double-layer four-way stretch fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The mass percentages of polyester filaments and spandex filaments in the inner warp yarn are 92% and 8% respectively.

4. The double-layer four-way stretch fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The mass percentages of spandex yarn, cotton and polyester staple fiber in the weft yarn are 3.6%, 33.74% and 62.66% respectively.

5. The double-layer four-way stretch fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The reed number of the double-layer warp yarn is 92-96 reeds / 10cm, and the reed width is 2000-2300mm.

6. The double-layer four-way stretch fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The surface layer warp twist is 50-55 twists / 10cm, and the weft twist is 50-60 twists / 10cm.

7. The method for preparing a double-layer four-way stretch fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that: The process includes the following steps: spinning → warping → dyeing → warping → sizing → drawing in → weaving → finishing; Among them, a heald frame is used for drawing in the warp, and the number of drop wires is 6 to 10; the drawing in method of the drop wires is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; 4 ground warps are drawn in per reed, and 4 side warps are drawn in per reed; the ground weave adopts 3 / 1+1 / 1, and the side weave adopts 2 / 2 warp weight flat, and the drawing in method of the side weave is: left side (1, 2, 1, 2) × 12, 4 drawn in per reed; right side (2, 1, 2, 1) × 12, 4 drawn in per reed.

8. The method for preparing a double-layer four-way stretch fabric according to claim 7, characterized in that: The dyeing dye comprises 1.0-2.0 g / L indigo powder, 3.5-3.8 g / L alkali content of indigo base solution, 1.0-1.2 g / L insurance powder, 4.0-5.0 g / L scouring alkali, 70-80 g / L citric acid, 3-7 g / L pickling tank penetrant, and 40-50 g / L softener.

9. The method for preparing a double-layer four-way stretch fabric according to claim 7, characterized in that: The sizing process is double-sizing and double-pressing, and the sizing rate is 7-10; the sizing formula is calculated by weight: 100 parts of corn starch, 4 parts of propylene and 4 parts of oil, with a solid content of 11.5%, and water is used as the solvent.

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