Cosmetic composition and use thereof

Abstract

Provided herein is a cosmetic composition comprising: (i) at least one acetylneuraminic acid; and (ii) at least one fermented extract of Cordyceps militaris (Cordyceps militaris). The invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition and a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, the use of the cosmetic composition and a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials. Background Art

[0002] Human skin is composed of three compartments, namely, a superficial compartment, which is the epidermis; a dermis; and a deep compartment, which is the subcutaneous tissue.

[0003] The dermis is mainly composed of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix (ECM). The extracellular matrix consists of various macromolecules that are responsible for the mechanical strength of the skin, its compliance, its tonicity and its elasticity, and also for physiologically important functions (hydration, thermoregulation and regulation of skin permeability). These macromolecules include in particular collagen, elastin and glycoconjugates (glycoproteins and proteoglycans).

[0004] Collagen makes up 70% of the proteins of the ECM. Naturally, collagen is constantly renewed, but this turnover decreases with age, which leads to thinning of the dermis. The loss of collagen will lead to wrinkles and lack of firmness in the skin.

[0005] It is also known that prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation (particularly type A and B radiation) has the effect of stimulating the expression of collagenases, particularly MMP-1 (also known as matrix metalloproteinase 1 or interstitial collagenase), which constitutes one of the components of photoinduced or non-photoinduced skin aging.

[0006] Various cosmetic products have been used to care for the skin, for example to combat skin aging. However, some products are not effective enough.

[0007] Therefore, there remains a need to formulate compositions for the care of the skin that are effective in combating skin aging. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0009] Therefore, one object of the present invention is to develop a composition for caring for the skin which can effectively combat skin aging.

[0010] Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic method for caring for the skin.

[0011] The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate compositions for the care of the skin which are effective in combating skin ageing.

[0012] Thus, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0013] (i) at least one acetylneuraminic acid; and

[0014] (ii) at least one Cordyceps militaris fermented extract.

[0015] The inventors have found that the composition of the present invention can improve the content of type I collagen and inhibit the production of MMP-1, and effectively resist skin aging.

[0016] In a second aspect, the present invention provides the use of the composition of the present invention for the anti-aging of keratin materials.

[0017] In a third aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, which comprises applying to the keratin material a composition according to the first aspect of the invention.

[0018] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the following description and examples. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0020] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the invention belongs. When the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the invention belongs, the definition described in this article shall apply.

[0021] In the following, and unless otherwise indicated, the upper and lower limits of a numerical range are included in the range, especially in the expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0022] In addition, the expression "at least one" used in the present specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0023] Throughout this application, the term "comprising / includes" should be interpreted as covering all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising / includes" also discloses embodiments in which there are no features other than the specifically mentioned features (i.e., "consisting of ...").

[0024] Unless otherwise indicated, all numerical values ​​expressing quantities of ingredients and the like used in the specification and claims are to be understood as modified by the term “about.” Therefore, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximations that can vary as necessary depending on the desired purpose.

[0025] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes (eg lips). The facial skin is most particularly contemplated according to the present invention.

[0026] Unless otherwise indicated, all percentages in the present invention are by weight.

[0027] According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises:

[0028] (i) at least one acetylneuraminic acid; and

[0029] (ii) at least one Cordyceps militaris fermented extract.

[0030] Acetylneuraminic acid

[0031] According to a first aspect, the composition of the invention comprises at least one acetylneuraminic acid.

[0032] Preferably, the acetylneuraminic acid is selected from N-glycolylneuraminic acid (NGNA), N-acetylneuraminic acid (NANA), 5-N-acetyl-4-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-4,9-di-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7,9-di-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8,9-di-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7,8,9-tri-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-OL- Lactoyl-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-4-O-acetyl-9-O-lactoyl-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-acetyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8-O-thio-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-phospho-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-acetyl-2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-9-O-lactoyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-2,7-dehydro- Neuroaminic acid, 4-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 7-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 8-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 9-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 7,9-di-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 8,9-di-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 7,8,9-tri-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-glycolyl-9-O-lactoyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 9-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid Acid, 7,9-di-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-glycolyl-8-O-thio-neuraminic acid, N-(O-acetyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, N-(O-methyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, 2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 9-O-acetyl-2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-5-N-glycolyl-9-O-lactoyl-neuraminic acid, 2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 2,7-dehydro-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 2,7-Anhydro-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid and combinations thereof.

[0033] More preferably, the acetylneuraminic acid is selected from N-glycolylneuraminic acid (NGNA), N-acetylneuraminic acid (NANA), 5-N-acetyl-4-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-4,9-di-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7,9-di-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8,9-di-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7,8,9-tri-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-acetyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 4-O-acetyl Acyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 7-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 8-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 9-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 7,9-di-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 8,9-di-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 7,8,9-tri-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 9-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 7,9-di-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, N-(O-acetyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, N-(O-methyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, and combinations thereof.

[0034] Even more preferably, the acetylneuraminic acid is selected from the group consisting of N-glycolylneuraminic acid (NGNA), N-acetylneuraminic acid (NANA), N-(O-acetyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, N-(O-methyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, and combinations thereof.

[0035] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprise N-acetylneuraminic acid (NANA).

[0036] Advantageously, acetylneuraminic acid is present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] Cordyceps militaris fermented extract

[0038] According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one Cordyceps militaris fermentation extract.

[0039] Preferably, the cordyceps militaris fermentation extract is a cordyceps militaris-derived lactococcus fermentation extract.

[0040] Cordyceps militaris is the model species of the Ascomycota, Hypocreales, Clavicepsaceae and Cordyceps. Cordyceps militaris cultured from live pupae is usually called Cordyceps militaris. The main active ingredients in Cordyceps militaris are cordycepin, cordycepic acid and cordyceps polysaccharide. Cordycepin is also called 3-deoxyadenosine.

[0041] The fermented extract of Cordyceps militaris can be obtained by fermenting and culturing Lactobacillus in a fermentation medium using Cordyceps militaris as a nitrogen source.

[0042] In particular, cordyceps militaris is the only nitrogen source.

[0043] For more details on the production of Cordyceps militaris fermented extracts, CN111808901A may be mentioned.

[0044] As an example of a commercial product of a fermented extract of Cordyceps militaris, mention may be made of the product sold by BLOOMAGE BIOTECHNOLOGY under the name BIOYOUTH The kind that is sold.

[0045] Advantageously, the dry matter content of the Cordyceps militaris fermented extract in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 1%, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5%, more preferably from 0.01% to 0.3%, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.

[0046] Advantageously, the weight ratio of at least one acetylneuraminic acid to at least one Cordyceps militaris fermented extract ranges from 1:10 to 2:1, preferably from 1:5 to 1:1.

[0047] C-glycoside compounds

[0048] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C-glycoside compound.

[0049] Preferably, the C-glycoside is selected from the compounds of formula (I), and also their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers and geometric isomers:

[0050]

[0051] in:

[0052] -R represents saturated C1-C 10 a hydrocarbon group, in particular a saturated C1-C4 hydrocarbon group, which may be optionally substituted by at least one group selected from OH, COOH or COOR"2, wherein R"2 is a saturated C1-C4 hydrocarbon group,

[0053] -S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide containing up to 20 saccharide units, in particular up to 6 saccharide units, in the pyranose and / or furanose form and of the L and / or D series, which may be substituted by necessarily free hydroxyl groups and optionally by one or more optionally protected amine functions, and

[0054] -X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- groups, and in particular a -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- group, and more particularly a -CH(OH)- group,

[0055] The S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomer isomeric nature, which may be alpha or beta.

[0056] The C-glycosides useful in the practice of the present invention are in particular those in which R represents a saturated straight-chain C1-C6 hydrocarbon group, in particular a saturated straight-chain C1-C4 hydrocarbon group, preferably a saturated straight-chain C1-C2 hydrocarbon group, and more preferably a methyl group.

[0057] Among the alkyl radicals suitable for implementing the invention, mention may in particular be made of methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl.

[0058] According to one embodiment of the invention, C-glycoside compounds corresponding to formula (I) can be used, in which S can represent a monosaccharide or polysaccharide containing up to 6 sugar units, which is in the pyranose and / or furanose form and is of the L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide exhibiting at least one necessarily free hydroxyl function and / or optionally one or more necessarily protected amine functions, X and R otherwise retain all the definitions given above.

[0059] Advantageously, the monosaccharide according to the invention may be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, and advantageously represents D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose.

[0060] More particularly, the polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 saccharide units may be chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose, which may advantageously be chosen from xylobiose, methyl-β-xylobiose, xylotriose, xylotetrose, xylopentaose and xylohexose and in particular xylobiose, which consists of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.

[0061] More particularly, S may represent a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose, and in particular D-xylose.

[0062] Preferably, C-glycosides of formula (I) are used, wherein:

[0063] - R represents an unsubstituted straight-chain C1-C4 (especially C1-C2) alkyl group, especially a methyl group;

[0064] -S represents a monosaccharide as described above and is particularly selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;

[0065] -X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and is preferably a -CH(OH)- group.

[0066] The acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of the compounds, such as those formed by organic or inorganic acids. By way of example, salts of inorganic acids (e.g., sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid) may be mentioned. Salts of organic acids that may contain one or more carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid or phosphonic acid groups may also be mentioned. In particular, propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid may be mentioned.

[0067] When the compound of formula (I) contains an acid group, the acid group can be neutralized with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2 or Zn(OH)2, or an organic base, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, such as triethylamine or butylamine. The primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may contain one or more nitrogen atoms and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore contain, for example, one or more alcohol functions; in particular, mention may be made of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol or 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. Lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine may also be mentioned.

[0068] The acceptable solvates of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates, such as those formed due to the presence of solvents during the final stages of preparing the compounds. By way of example, solvates due to the presence of water or linear alcohols or branched alcohols (such as ethanol or isopropanol) can be mentioned.

[0069] Of course, according to the invention, the C-glycosides corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or as a mixture with other C-glycosides and in any proportions.

[0070] The C-glycosides suitable for the present invention can be obtained in particular by the synthesis method described in document WO 02 / 051828.

[0071] By way of non-limiting illustration of C-glycoside compounds particularly suitable for the present invention, mention may in particular be made of the following compounds, their isomers and their mixtures:

[0072] -C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0073] -C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-n-propan-2-one,

[0074] -C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane,

[0075] -C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane,

[0076] -1-(C-β-D-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0077] -1-(C-α-D-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0078] -1-(C-β-L-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0079] -1-(C-α-L-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0080] -1-(C-β-D-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0081] -1-(C-α-D-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0082] -1-(C-β-L-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0083] -1-(C-α-L-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0084] -1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0085] -1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0086] -1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0087] -1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0088] -1-(C-β-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0089] -1-(C-α-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0090] -1-(C-β-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0091] -1-(C-α-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0092] -C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0093] -C-α-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0094] -C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0095] -C-α-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.

[0096] According to one embodiment, C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane or C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane and still better C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane can advantageously be used for the preparation of the composition according to the invention.

[0097] According to a particular embodiment, the C-glycoside may be C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol) provided as a solution containing 35% by weight of active material in water and propylene glycol.

[0098] If present, C-glycoside is advantageously present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] If present, advantageously the ratio of the total weight of at least one acetylneuraminic acid and at least one Cordyceps militaris fermented extract to the weight of C-glycoside ranges from 1:3 to 1:40, preferably from 1:10 to 1:35.

[0100] Water Phase

[0101] The compositions of the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase.

[0102] The aqueous phase comprises water.

[0103] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises water.

[0104] Advantageously, water is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 30% to 98% by weight, preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] Preferably, the composition comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25° C.) so as to provide a hydrating effect, the organic solvent being selected from mono-, di- and polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.

[0106] If present, the water-miscible organic solvent chosen from mono-, di- and polyols is advantageously present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise water and glycerin.

[0108] oil phase

[0109] The compositions according to the invention may comprise an oily phase.

[0110] The oil phase contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0111] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one oil.

[0112] The term "oil" refers to a water-immiscible, non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0113] Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0114] The term "nonvolatile" refers to a substance whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is not zero and is less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13Pa) of oil.

[0115] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil that is capable of evaporating in less than one hour on contact with the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0116] The oil phase may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils or mixtures thereof.

[0117] They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0118] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" denotes an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0119] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0120] The oil may optionally contain oxygen atoms, nitrogen atoms, sulfur atoms and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups or acid groups.

[0121] If present, the oily phase is advantageously present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0122] Additional cosmetic active ingredients

[0123] Besides the cosmetically active ingredients as defined hereinbefore, the compositions according to the invention may comprise additional cosmetically active ingredients.

[0124] As examples of cosmetic active ingredients, mention may be made of moisturizers; vitamins, such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol) and derivatives (especially esters) of said vitamins, and mixtures thereof; brighteners; firming agents; exfoliants; moisturizing and hydrating agents (HA); repairing and soothing agents; other anti-aging agents; agents acting on microcirculation; oil-control agents; anti-acne agents; UV filters; agents acting on pigmentation; and mixtures thereof.

[0125] Based on the end use of the composition according to the invention, the amount of additional cosmetic active ingredient can be easily adjusted by a person skilled in the art.

[0126] Additional adjuvants or additives

[0127] The composition of the present invention may contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, such as fragrances, chelating agents, preservatives, surfactants, thickeners, colorants / pigments, pH adjusters and mixtures thereof.

[0128] A person skilled in the art can select the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to adversely affect the end use of the composition according to the invention.

[0129] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0130] (i) 0.01 wt % to 0.3 wt % of at least one acetylneuraminic acid selected from the group consisting of N-glycolylneuraminic acid (NGNA), N-acetylneuraminic acid (NANA), N-(O-acetyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, N-(O-methyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, and combinations thereof; and

[0131] (ii) 0.01 to 0.3 wt% of a cordyceps militaris-derived lactococcus fermentation extract.

[0132] Galenic form and method

[0133] The composition of the present invention is in the form of an emulsion, cream, milk, mask or hydrogel.

[0134] The compositions according to the invention can be used for caring for keratin materials.

[0135] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides the use of the composition of the present invention for the anti-aging of keratin materials.

[0136] In particular, the present invention provides use of the composition of the present invention for promoting collagen production and / or inhibiting MMP-1 production.

[0137] According to a third aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, which comprises applying to the keratin material a composition according to the first aspect of the invention.

[0138] In some embodiments, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for anti-aging of keratin materials, comprising applying a composition according to the first aspect of the invention to a keratin material.

[0139] In particular, the keratin material is skin. Example

[0140] The following examples are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0141] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0142] Table 1

[0143]

[0144] Example 1

[0145] The composition of the inventive formulation 1 and the compositions of comparative formulations 1-A and 1-B were prepared based on the amounts given in Table 2. The amounts are given as % by weight of the active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0146] Table 2

[0147]

[0148] The composition of Inventive Formula 1 represents a composition according to the present invention.

[0149] The composition of comparative formulation 1-A does not contain Lactococcus fermentation product.

[0150] The composition of Comparative Formulation 1-B did not contain acetylneuraminic acid.

[0151] Preparation method:

[0152] The compositions listed above were prepared by diluting the respective raw materials in sterile double distilled water at room temperature and dissolving them in the water under stirring.

[0153] Evaluate

[0154] Type I collagen ELISA assay was performed as follows.

[0155] Normal human fibroblasts were cultured at 2×10 5Cells were seeded into 6-well plates at a cell density of 10 cells / well and cultured overnight in a cell culture incubator (Thermo 150I) at 5% CO2, 95% humidity, and 37°C. When the cell density reached 40-60% confluence, the cell culture medium was replaced with fresh culture medium containing different concentrations or combinations of the tested raw materials. The treated cells were placed in a cell culture incubator with 5% CO2, 95% humidity, and 37°C for 24 hours.

[0156] Each test group has three replicate cells. Cell culture supernatants were collected for type I collagen ELISA assay (Cusabio). The group without any treatment was taken as the blank control (BC) group, and the group treated with 100 ng / ml of TGF-β1 (Peprotech) was taken as the positive control (PC) group. The other three groups were treated with fresh culture medium containing the composition of the invention formula 1, the composition of the comparative formula 1-A, and the composition of the comparative formula 1-B, respectively. The procedure of the ELISA assay fully followed the standard procedures described in the test kit.

[0157] The relative improvement of collagen I content for each group was calculated according to the following formula, and the results are summarized in Table 3.

[0158]

[0159] Relative improvement in collagen I content % = relative collagen I content % - 100%

[0160] Table 3

[0161] nature Blank control Positive Control Invention formula 1 Comparative formula 1-A Comparative formula 1-B Relative improvement of collagen I content (%) 0 35.30 58.53 15.45 11.59

[0162] As can be seen from Table 3, compared with the composition of comparative formula 1-A and the composition of comparative formula 1-B, the composition of inventive formula 1 can significantly improve the collagen I content.

[0163] The relative improvement in collagen I content of Inventive Formula 1 was higher than the sum of the relative improvements of the compositions of Comparative Formula 1-A and Comparative Formula 1-B, thus demonstrating that the combination of Lactococcus fermentate and acetylneuraminic acid improved collagen I content.

[0164] Example 2

[0165] Following the procedure as described in Example 1, the composition of the inventive formulation 2 and the compositions of comparative formulations 2-A and 2-B were prepared based on the amounts given in Table 4. The amounts are given in weight % of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0166] Table 4

[0167]

[0168] The composition of Inventive Formulation 2 represents a composition according to the present invention.

[0169] The composition of comparative formulation 2-A does not contain Lactococcus fermentation product.

[0170] The composition of Comparative Formulation 2-B did not contain acetylneuraminic acid.

[0171] Type I collagen ELISA assay was performed according to the protocol as described in Example 1, the relative improvement of collagen I content for each group was calculated, and the results are summarized in Table 5.

[0172] Table 5

[0173]

[0174] As can be seen from Table 5, compared with the composition of comparative formula 2-A and the composition of comparative formula 2-B, the composition of inventive formula 2 can significantly improve the collagen I content.

[0175] The relative improvement in collagen I content of Inventive Formula 2 was higher than the sum of the relative improvements of the compositions of Comparative Formula 2-A and Comparative Formula 2-B, thus demonstrating that the combination of Lactococcus fermentate and acetylneuraminic acid improved collagen I content.

[0176] Example 3

[0177] Following the procedure as described in Example 1, the composition of the inventive formulation 3 and the compositions of comparative formulations 3-A and 3-B were prepared based on the amounts given in Table 6. The amounts are given in weight % of the active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0178] Table 6

[0179]

[0180] The composition of Inventive Formulation 3 represents a composition according to the present invention.

[0181] The composition of comparative formulation 3-A did not contain Lactococcus fermentation product.

[0182] The composition of Comparative Formulation 3-B did not contain acetylneuraminic acid.

[0183] Type I collagen ELISA assay was performed according to the protocol as described in Example 1, the relative improvement of collagen I content for each group was calculated, and the results are summarized in Table 7.

[0184] Table 7

[0185]

[0186] As can be seen from Table 7, compared with the composition of comparative formula 3-A and the composition of comparative formula 3-B, the composition of inventive formula 3 can significantly improve the collagen I content.

[0187] The relative improvement of collagen I content of Inventive Formula 3 is higher than the sum of the relative improvements of the compositions of Comparative Formula 3-A and Comparative Formula 3-B. Thus, it is demonstrated that the combination of Lactococcus ferment and acetylneuraminic acid improves collagen I content.

[0188] Example 4

[0189] Following the procedure as described in Example 1, the composition of the inventive formulation 4 and the compositions of comparative formulations 4-A and 4-B were prepared based on the amounts given in Table 8. The amounts are given in weight % of the active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] Table 8

[0191]

[0192] The composition of Inventive Formulation 4 represents a composition according to the present invention.

[0193] The composition of comparative formulation 4-A did not contain acetylneuraminic acid.

[0194] The composition of comparative formulation 4-B did not contain Lactococcus fermentation product.

[0195] Type I collagen ELISA assay was performed according to the protocol as described in Example 1, the relative improvement of collagen I content for each group was calculated, and the results are summarized in Table 9.

[0196] Table 9

[0197]

[0198] As can be seen from Table 9, compared with the composition of comparative formula 4-A and the composition of comparative formula 4-B, the composition of inventive formula 3 can significantly improve the collagen I content.

[0199] The relative improvement in collagen I content of Inventive Formula 4 was higher than the sum of the relative improvements of the compositions of Comparative Formula 4-A and Comparative Formula 4-B, thus demonstrating that the combination of Lactococcus fermentate and acetylneuraminic acid improves collagen I content.

[0200] It can also be seen from the comparison between Inventive Formula 1 and Inventive Formula 4 that the presence of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol can significantly improve the collagen I content.

[0201] Example 5

[0202] Following the procedure as described in Example 1, the composition of the inventive formulation 5 and the compositions of comparative formulations 5-A and 5-B were prepared based on the amounts given in Table 10. The amounts are given in weight % of the active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0203] Table 10

[0204]

[0205] The composition of Inventive Formula 5 represents a composition according to the present invention.

[0206] The composition of comparative formulation 5-A did not contain Lactococcus fermentation product.

[0207] The composition of Comparative Formulation 5-B did not contain acetylneuraminic acid.

[0208] Evaluate

[0209] MMP-1 ELISA assay was performed as follows.

[0210] Cell seeding: Human skin fibroblasts were grown to 80% confluence, digested and suspended, and the cell density was adjusted to 30,000 cells / well using complete medium (DMEM containing 10% FBS, Gibco, Lot: 2275120). The cells were seeded on a 24-well plate and cultured in a cell culture incubator (5% CO2, 95% humidity, 37°C) for 24 hours.

[0211] Subject exposure: The original culture medium was removed and replaced with DMEM containing 1% FBS or 1% FBSDMEM containing samples of different concentrations, and cultured in an incubator for 24 hours. The group treated with 0.1 μM dexamethasone (DT) was taken as the positive control (PC) group. The group not treated with any composition was taken as the untreated (NT) group. The other three groups were treated with fresh culture medium containing the composition of the invention formula 5, the composition of the comparative formula 5-A, and the composition of the comparative formula 5-B, respectively.

[0212] UVA modeling: Before UVA irradiation, discard the culture medium and add 200 μL / well of PBS. For plates that require UVA irradiation, place them under a UV lamp and adjust the UVA irradiation intensity to 2.5 mW / cm 2 , using 6J / cm 2UVA irradiation (about 40 minutes). For the non-UVA control (blank control) plate, the plate was placed on an area without UVA irradiation. After irradiation, PBS was removed and replaced with DMEM containing 1% FBS or 1% FBS DMEM containing different concentrations of raw materials, and the plate was placed in an incubator for 48 hours. After incubation, the supernatant was collected in a sterile Eppendorf tube, centrifuged at 12,000 RPM for 5 minutes at low temperature, and stored at -80°C.

[0213] The ELISA procedure completely followed the instructions of the kit (R&D, #DY901B, Lot: P288649).

[0214] The relative inhibition of MMP-1 content for each group was calculated according to the following formula, and the results are summarized in Table 11.

[0215]

[0216] MMP1 content% 测试组 / UVA Relative inhibition = 100% - relative MMP1 content % 测试组 / UVA

[0217] Table 11

[0218]

[0219] As can be seen from Table 11, compared with the compositions of comparative formulations 5-A and 5-B, the composition of inventive formulation 5 can significantly inhibit the MMP-1 content.

[0220] The relative improvement of collagen I content of Inventive Formula 5 is higher than the sum of the relative improvements of the compositions of Comparative Formula 5-A and Comparative Formula 5-B. Thus, it is demonstrated that the combination of Lactococcus ferment and acetylneuraminic acid inhibits MMP-1 content.

[0221] In conclusion, the composition according to the present invention can improve the content of collagen I and inhibit the production of MMP-1, and thus can effectively resist skin aging.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (i) at least one acetylneuraminic acid; and (ii) at least one Cordyceps militaris fermented extract.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the acetylneuraminic acid is selected from N-glycolylneuraminic acid (NGNA), N-acetylneuraminic acid (NANA), 5-N-acetyl-4-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-4,9-di-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7,9-di-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8,9-di-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7,8,9-tri ...9-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-4,9-di-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7,9-di-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8,9-di-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl- -N-acetyl-9-OL-lactoyl-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-4-O-acetyl-9-O-lactoyl-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-acetyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8-O-thio-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-phospho-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-acetyl-2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-9-O-lactoyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl -2,7-anhydro-neuraminic acid, 4-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 7-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 8-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 9-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 7,9-di-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 8,9-di-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 7,8,9-tri-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-glycolyl-9-O-lactoyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 9-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl -neuraminic acid, 7,9-di-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-glycolyl-8-O-thio-neuraminic acid, N-(O-acetyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, N-(O-methyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, 2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 9-O-acetyl-2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-5-N-glycolyl-9-O-lactoyl-neuraminic acid, 2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 2,7-anhydro-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 2,7-Anhydro-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, and combinations thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the acetylneuraminic acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.001 wt% to 1.0 wt%, preferably from 0.005 wt% to 0.5 wt%, more preferably from 0.01 wt% to 0.3 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the Cordyceps militaris fermentation extract is a Cordyceps militaris-derived Lactococcus fermentation extract.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the dry matter of the Cordyceps militaris fermentation extract is present in an amount ranging from 0.001 wt % to 1 wt %, preferably from 0.005 wt % to 0.5 wt %, more preferably from 0.01 wt % to 0.3 wt %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1-5, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one acetylneuraminic acid to the at least one Cordyceps militaris fermentation extract ranges from 1:10 to 2:1, preferably from 1:5 to 1:

1.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising C-glycoside.

8. The composition according to claim 7, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from the compounds of formula (I), and also their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers and geometric isomers: in: -R represents saturated C1-C 10 a hydrocarbon group, in particular a saturated C1-C4 hydrocarbon group, which may be optionally substituted by at least one group selected from OH, COOH or COOR"2, wherein R"2 is a saturated C1-C4 hydrocarbon group, -S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide containing up to 20 saccharide units, in particular up to 6 saccharide units, in the pyranose and / or furanose form and of the L and / or D series, which may be substituted by necessarily free hydroxyl groups and optionally by one or more optionally protected amine functions, and -X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- groups, and in particular a -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- group, and more particularly a -CH(OH)- group, The S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomer isomeric nature, which may be alpha or beta.

9. The composition according to claim 8, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from: -C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, -C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-n-propan-2-one, -C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane, -C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-β-D-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-D-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-β-L-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-L-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-β-D-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-D-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-β-L-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-L-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-β-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-β-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, -C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, -C-α-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, -C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, -C-α-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and mixtures thereof.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 7 to 9, wherein the C-glycoside is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 7-10, wherein the ratio of the total weight of at least one acetylneuraminic acid and at least one Cordyceps militaris fermentation extract to the weight of the C-glycoside ranges from 1:3 to 1:40, preferably from 1:10 to 1:

35.

12. The composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) 0.01 wt % to 0.3 wt % of at least one acetylneuraminic acid selected from the group consisting of N-glycolylneuraminic acid (NGNA), N-acetylneuraminic acid (NANA), N-(O-acetyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, N-(O-methyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, and combinations thereof; and (ii) 0.01 to 0.3 wt% of a cordyceps militaris-derived lactococcus fermentation extract.

13. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for the anti-aging of keratin materials, in particular the skin.

14. Non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising applying to keratin materials, in particular the skin, a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.

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