Method for manufacturing real silk seamless knitted cheongsam

Abstract

The invention provides a method for manufacturing a real silk seamless knitted cheongsam. The method comprises the following steps: determining the size of a to-be-manufactured cheongsam; determining transverse density and straight density numerical values of each tissue of the cheongsam, and determining each process parameter of the cheongsam; carrying out computer knitting on the real silk yarns subjected to double-strand twisting treatment by adopting a compound-needle 18-needle computerized flat knitting machine, so as to obtain a cheongsam body knitted sheet; meanwhile, computer knitting is conducted on the real silk yarn subjected to double-strand twisting treatment through a Stock 16-needle computerized flat knitting machine, and therefore a cheongsam collar knitted piece is obtained; sewing the cheongsam collar knitted sheet on the cheongsam body knitted sheet by adopting a 20-needle disc sewing machine to obtain a cheongsam garment; compared with the prior art, the method has the beneficial effects that the purpose of integrally forming the real silk cheongsam is achieved by performing double-strand twisting treatment on the real silk yarns and adopting a compound needle of the Island-Tu company and a rake technology of a computerized flat knitting machine, so that the problem of waste of real silk fabrics in production is solved, and the production cost is reduced. And moreover, the problem of manpower and energy loss caused by sewing is solved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of clothing, in particular to a method for making a seamless silk knitted cheongsam. Background Art

[0002] From the perspective of production technology, silk cheongsam can be divided into two types: woven cheongsam and knitted cheongsam. In order to achieve the body measurement during the production of woven cheongsam, the "savings" method is adopted, and the original silk fabric is cut and then sewn twice. The knitted cheongsam on the market utilizes the knitted structure to avoid the weaving process of "savings" multiple times, but it also uses a seaming process similar to the woven cheongsam to sew the front and back pieces. The two production processes used in silk woven cheongsam and knitted cheongsam both result in waste of silk fabrics, and the sewing causes loss of labor and energy. How to retain the excellent properties of silk fibers and solve the problem of secondary sewing are the pain points of silk cheongsam. Summary of the invention

[0003] In view of the above-mentioned shortcomings of the prior art, the purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a silk seamless knitted cheongsam, which is used to solve the problem that the existing production methods of silk woven cheongsams and knitted cheongsams result in waste of silk fabrics and loss of labor and energy due to sewing.

[0004] To achieve the above objectives and other related objectives, the present invention provides the following technical solutions:

[0005] A method for making a silk seamless knitted cheongsam comprises the following steps: determining the size of a cheongsam to be made, wherein the size of the cheongsam comprises the transverse size of the cheongsam and the longitudinal size of the cheongsam, wherein the transverse size of the cheongsam comprises the size of the chest width, waist width, hip width, shoulder width, collar width and the like; the longitudinal size of the cheongsam comprises the size of the length of the garment, the hanging shoulder, the oblique shoulder, the waist height, the hip height, the hem rib height, the collar depth, the collar height and the like; obtaining the transverse density and the longitudinal density values ​​of each tissue of the cheongsam according to the cheongsam body sample and the cheongsam collar sample, and determining various process parameters of the cheongsam according to the transverse density and the longitudinal density values ​​of each tissue of the cheongsam, wherein the corresponding transverse needle number and longitudinal rotation number can be obtained by multiplying the transverse size and the longitudinal size of each part of the cheongsam with the transverse density and the longitudinal density respectively;

[0006] According to the various process parameters of the cheongsam and using a compound needle 18-needle computer flat knitting machine, the double-twisted silk yarn is computer-woven with the cooperation of an intelligent CNC yarn ring system to obtain the cheongsam body fabric; at the same time, a Stoll 16-needle computer flat knitting machine is used to computer-weave the double-twisted silk yarn to obtain the cheongsam collar fabric; a 20-needle disc sewing machine is used to sew the cheongsam collar fabric to the cheongsam body fabric to obtain the cheongsam garment, wherein the cheongsam body fabric is cylindrical in shape.

[0007] In one embodiment of the present invention, before determining the size of the cheongsam to be produced, the method includes: using a single-strand silk yarn made of silk fiber, and performing a double-twisting treatment on the single-strand silk yarn, wherein the single-strand silk yarn is a single-strand silk yarn made of pure mulberry silk fiber that has been dyed; testing the silk yarn after the double-twisting treatment on a compound needle 18-needle computer flat knitting machine and in cooperation with an intelligent CNC yarn ring system, and obtaining a cheongsam body sample according to the test results, wherein the compound needle 18-needle computer flat knitting machine and the intelligent CNC yarn ring system are both from Shimadzu Corporation; obtaining the density of each tissue of the cheongsam body according to the cheongsam body sample, wherein the density of each tissue of the cheongsam body includes the horizontal density and vertical density of each tissue of the cheongsam body.

[0008] In one embodiment of the present invention, before determining the size of the cheongsam to be produced, it also includes: testing the double-twisted silk yarn on a Stoll 16-needle computer flat knitting machine, and obtaining a cheongsam collar sample according to the test result, wherein the Stoll 16-needle computer flat knitting machine is a German STOLL 16-needle computer flat knitting machine; obtaining the density of the cheongsam collar tissue according to the cheongsam collar sample, wherein the density of the cheongsam collar tissue includes the horizontal density and vertical density of the cheongsam collar tissue.

[0009] In one embodiment of the present invention, in the double-ply twisting process of the single-ply silk yarn, the silk yarn is divided into two strands and then twisted by a twisting machine. The twisted double-ply silk yarn enhances the strength and elasticity of the yarn; and in the double-ply twisting process, the single yarn tension is controlled at 15cn, the spindle speed is set to 8200r / min, and the twist is set to 1800 to ensure the uniformity and stability of the silk yarn.

[0010] In one embodiment of the present invention, after the single-strand silk yarn is subjected to double-twisting treatment, before the double-twisted silk yarn is used for testing, the method further includes: using a net bag made of high-strength and wear-resistant nylon material to fix the yarn tube.

[0011] In one embodiment of the present invention, the method of obtaining the horizontal density and vertical density values ​​of each tissue of the cheongsam based on the cheongsam body sample and the cheongsam collar sample, and determining various process parameters of the cheongsam based on the horizontal density and vertical density values ​​of each tissue of the cheongsam, also includes: determining each key part on the cheongsam, and calculating the difference of each key part, and then converting the difference into a specific count and number of revolutions based on the horizontal density and vertical density of each tissue of the cheongsam body, wherein the key parts of the cheongsam include areas with large size differences such as chest, waist, and hips.

[0012] In one embodiment of the present invention, the calculation of the difference of each key part includes: calculating the difference of each key part according to the following formula: chest circumference difference = designed chest circumference - actual chest circumference; waist circumference difference = actual waist circumference - designed waist circumference; hip circumference difference = designed hip circumference - actual hip circumference; shoulder width difference: shoulder width difference = designed shoulder width - actual shoulder width.

[0013] In one embodiment of the present invention, after converting the difference according to the horizontal density and vertical density of each tissue of the cheongsam body into a specific count and number of turns, it also includes: dividing the obtained count difference by 2 to determine the specific count that needs to be added or released on both sides, and at the same time, according to the principle of ergonomics, reasonably allocating these increased and decreased stitches to form a reasonable arc; and the slit part of the cheongsam needs to clearly mark the number of stitches of the lingerie tissue, and use the added yarn technology to add 2 to 3 turns of elastic yarn at the bottom hem for weaving, and the chest needs to be marked with the number of stitches and the arc distribution of the lingerie tissue.

[0014] In one embodiment of the present invention, a plurality of stepper motors are respectively provided in the front plate weaving area and the back plate weaving area of ​​the computer flat knitting machine, and each stepper motor is connected to the corresponding rake control chip; each rake control chip is controlled by the MCU main control chip on the head of the compound needle 18-needle computer flat knitting machine, and cylindrical weaving is performed through the coordinated work of multiple rake control chips, thereby obtaining a cylindrical cheongsam body fabric.

[0015] In one embodiment of the present invention, after the cheongsam collar fabric is sewn onto the cheongsam body fabric using a 20-needle circular sewing machine to obtain the cheongsam garment, the process further includes: performing a yarn picking and repair inspection process on the cheongsam garment, then washing and drying the cheongsam, and ironing the cheongsam after the drying process.

[0016] As described above, the method for making a silk seamless knitted cheongsam of the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0017] The present invention realizes the purpose of one-piece forming of silk cheongsam by performing double-twisting treatment on silk yarn and adopting the composite needle of Shimadzu Corporation and the rake technology of computer flat knitting machine, thereby solving the problem of waste of silk fabrics in production and loss of labor and energy due to sewing; double-twisting of yarn: the twisted double-twisted yarn enhances the strength and elasticity of the yarn and improves its weavability, and after the double-twisting treatment, the silk yarn presents a more compact and uniform structure; composite needles are adopted in combination with an intelligent CNC yarn ring system: the sliding and movement of the composite needle 18 needles are precisely controlled by the intelligent CNC yarn ring system, thereby ensuring accurate yarn weaving and stable product quality, effectively guiding the yarn, and reducing yarn breakage and wear; and a plurality of stepper motors are respectively arranged in the front plate weaving area and the rear plate weaving area of ​​the computer flat knitting machine, each stepper motor is connected to its corresponding rake control chip, and the rake technology can realize independent tension control of the fabric within a very small range, thereby improving the flexibility and precision of weaving. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0018] Figure 1 It is an overall flow chart of the method for making a seamless silk knitted cheongsam disclosed in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0019] Figure 2 It is a schematic diagram of double-ply twisting in the method for making a seamless silk knitted cheongsam disclosed in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0020] Figure 3 It is a schematic diagram of a net bag in the method for making a seamless silk knitted cheongsam disclosed in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0021] Figure 4 It is a schematic diagram of a composite needle in the method for making a seamless silk knitted cheongsam disclosed in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0022] Figure 5 It is a schematic diagram of a classic cheongsam in the method for making a seamless silk knitted cheongsam disclosed in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0023] Figure 6 It is a schematic diagram of a knitting specification table in the method for making a seamless silk knitted cheongsam disclosed in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0024] Figure 7 It is a schematic diagram of programming on a machine in the method for making a seamless silk knitted cheongsam disclosed in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0025] Figure 8 It is a schematic diagram of the raking technology in the method for making a seamless silk knitted cheongsam disclosed in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0026] Fig. 9It is a schematic diagram of the inspection process of selecting yarn and repairing the cheongsam garment in the method for making the silk seamless knitted cheongsam disclosed in the embodiment of the present invention;

[0027] Fig.10 It is a schematic diagram of a fixing frame customized for the cheongsam silhouette in the method for making a silk seamless knitted cheongsam disclosed in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0028] Fig.11 It is a schematic diagram of weighing a cheongsam garment in the method for making a seamless silk knitted cheongsam disclosed in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0029] Fig.12 It is a schematic diagram of the utilization rate of woven fabrics of the same type in the method for making a seamless silk knitted cheongsam disclosed in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0030] Fig.13 It is a schematic diagram of the usage rate of the auxiliary materials for the same pattern in the method for making the seamless silk knitted cheongsam disclosed in the embodiment of the present invention;

[0031] Fig.14 It is a front view schematic diagram of the upper body of a cheongsam garment model in the final method for making a silk seamless knitted cheongsam disclosed in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0032] Fig.15 It is a schematic side view of the upper body of a cheongsam garment model in the final method for making a silk seamless knitted cheongsam disclosed in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0033] Fig.16 The figure is a rear view schematic diagram of a final cheongsam garment model wearing the cheongsam in the method for making a seamless silk knitted cheongsam disclosed in an embodiment of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0034] The following describes the embodiments of the present invention through specific examples, and those skilled in the art can easily understand other advantages and effects of the present invention from the contents disclosed in this specification. It should be noted that the following embodiments and features in the embodiments can be combined with each other without conflict.

[0035] The present invention relates to a method for making a silk seamless knitted cheongsam. Figure 1 As shown, the details are as follows:

[0036] Step 1, using a single-strand silk yarn made of silk fiber, and performing a double-strand twisting process on the single-strand silk yarn.

[0037] Specifically, the present invention selects a single-strand silk yarn made of pure mulberry silk fiber that has been dyed, wherein the silk fiber is composed of silk fibroin and an outer layer of sericin, has a high fiber regain and good water absorption, and at the same time has a smooth surface and low friction between fibers, and is easy to slip and deform under strong force; in view of the fact that the angle deviation between the warp yarn and the weft yarn is easy to occur in the weaving process of the silk knitted fabric, the silk yarn, that is, the single-strand silk yarn, needs to be double-twisted to reduce the weft deviation caused by the characteristics of the silk fiber; when the single-strand silk yarn is double-twisted During the processing, the silk yarn is divided into two strands and then twisted by a twisting machine. The twisted double-strand yarn enhances the strength and elasticity of the yarn and improves its weavability. In the double-strand twisting process, the single yarn tension is controlled at 15cn, the spindle speed is set at 8200r / min, and the twist is set at 1800 to ensure the uniformity and stability of the yarn. After the double-strand twisting process, the silk yarn presents a more compact and uniform structure, which lays a good foundation for controlling the front and rear weft bias in the subsequent weaving process. For double-strand twisting, please refer to Figure 2 .

[0038] More specifically, after the single-strand silk yarn is double-twisted, a net bag made of high-strength and wear-resistant nylon material is used to fix the yarn tube; the net bag can effectively prevent the yarn tube from sliding or falling off during the weaving process. At the same time, the design of the net bag also takes into account the convenience of yarn removal and replacement, ensuring the continuity and efficiency of the weaving process. For the detailed structure of the net bag, please refer to Figure 3 .

[0039] Step 2, the silk yarn after the double twisting treatment is tested on a compound needle 18-needle computer flat knitting machine with the cooperation of an intelligent CNC yarn ring system, and a cheongsam body sample is obtained according to the test results; the silk yarn after the double twisting treatment is tested on a Stoll 16-needle computer flat knitting machine, and a cheongsam collar sample is obtained according to the test results.

[0040] Specifically, in order to solve the key problem of silk yarn shedding, Shimadzu's 18-needle compound needle computerized flat knitting machine is selected for weaving. Compared with traditional latch needles, the sliding distance of compound needles is shorter, which helps to reduce the volume of needle bed and machine head, improve the compactness and flexibility of the machine, and thus solve the unique problem of missed needles of silk yarn. For the detailed structure of compound needles, please refer to Figure 4 ; During the trial process, in conjunction with Shimadzu's intelligent CNC yarn ring system, the machine precisely controls the sliding and movement of the compound needle to ensure accurate yarn weaving and stable product quality. It can effectively guide the yarn and reduce yarn breakage and wear, thereby improving fabric quality and production efficiency. In addition, when making cheongsam collars, hemming and other accessories, a Stoll 16-needle computerized flat knitting machine is used.

[0041] Step 3, obtaining the density of each tissue of the cheongsam body according to the cheongsam body sample, wherein the density of each tissue of the cheongsam body includes the horizontal density and vertical density of each tissue of the cheongsam body; obtaining the density of the cheongsam collar tissue according to the cheongsam collar sample, wherein the density of the cheongsam collar tissue includes the horizontal density and vertical density of the cheongsam collar tissue.

[0042] Specifically, the double-twisted silk yarn is introduced into a computer flat knitting machine for test pieces, and a fabric piece of about 30x30CM in size is woven. Then the density of each tissue of the fabric is determined, the number of transverse needle rows and the number of longitudinal turns (1 turn = 2 rows) of the fabric piece are recorded, and the transverse density M: 1cm = 8.01 counts and the vertical density N: 1cm = 4.37 turns of each tissue are calculated; wherein, the concepts of the transverse density and vertical density are: transverse density: refers to the number of horizontal rows of knitted fabric coils within a certain width, which reflects the tightness of the knitted fabric in the transverse direction; vertical density: refers to the number of vertical rows of knitted fabric coils within a certain length, which reflects the tightness of the knitted fabric in the longitudinal direction; its calculation method is: transverse density = number of horizontal rows of coils / test piece width; vertical density = number of vertical rows of coils / test piece length.

[0043] Further, the more common silk woven fabric was compared with the silk knitted fabric made of the test piece, and the cutting area was 28.26cm 2 The parameters of the circular fabric are tested according to the national standard GB / T5453, using the YG461E-III fully automatic air permeability meter, the test pressure difference is 100Pa, and the test area is 20cm 2 , test air permeability; according to the national standard GB / T12704.2-2009, the cutting area is 8.26cm 2 The circular fabric is tested for moisture permeability using a YG601H-III computerized fabric moisture permeability tester. According to the national standard B / T3923.1-2013, cut the warp and weft fabrics to 30×5cm 2 Fabric, using YG026D multifunctional electronic fabric strength tester, set the pre-tension to 2N, woven fabric fixed-point extension of 20%, knitted fabric fixed-point extension of 150%, woven fabric fixed-point force of 1000N, knitted fabric fixed-point force of 2000N, clamping distance of 200mm, stretching rate of 200mm / min, test the warp breaking strength, warp breaking elongation, weft breaking strength, weft breaking elongation, so as to obtain the parameter comparison table of the two fabrics, please refer to Table 1 for details.

[0044] Table 1 Fabric parameter comparison table

[0045]

[0046]

[0047] Step 4: Determine the size of the cheongsam to be made.

[0048] Specifically, the present invention selects the classic "Shi Sheng" cheongsam of the 1930s as a reference. Figure 5 , designed a style with capped sleeves, stand-up collar, right lapel, double slits, and a slim fit, and the shape maintains the traditional shape of the classical cheongsam "round collar and large lapel"; and determined the size of the cheongsam based on the international cheongsam size cases, among which the horizontal size of the cheongsam includes chest width, waist width, hip width, shoulder width, collar width and other dimensions, and the vertical size of the cheongsam includes length, hanging shoulders, oblique shoulders, waist height, hip height, hem ribbing height, collar depth, collar height and other dimensions. For details, please refer to Table 2 and Figure 6 .

[0049] Table 2 Specifications and dimensions of knitted cheongsam (unit: cm)

[0050]

[0051] Step 5, obtaining the horizontal and vertical density values ​​of each tissue of the cheongsam based on the cheongsam body sample and the cheongsam collar sample, and determining various process parameters of the cheongsam based on the horizontal and vertical density values ​​of each tissue of the cheongsam, wherein the corresponding horizontal needle count and vertical rotation count can be obtained by multiplying the horizontal and vertical dimensions of each part of the cheongsam with the horizontal density and vertical density respectively.

[0052] Specifically, the various process parameters of the cheongsam are calculated based on the transverse and vertical density values ​​obtained from the test piece. Among them, the corresponding transverse needle number can be obtained by multiplying the transverse size of each part of the cheongsam with the transverse density; and the longitudinal size is multiplied by the vertical density to get the longitudinal number of revolutions; and for the key parts of the cheongsam, such as the chest, waist, hips and other areas with large size differences, the difference must be calculated first, and based on the transverse and vertical densities of the small sample trial weaving, these differences are converted into specific counts and revolutions.

[0053] Among them, in the process of making cheongsam, calculating the difference of each key part and converting these differences into specific counts and revolutions according to the horizontal and vertical density of the sample trial weaving is a crucial step; this involves precise control of the cheongsam pattern to ensure the fit and aesthetics of the finished cheongsam. The following will explain this process in detail:

[0054] (1) Calculation of the difference of key parts of cheongsam: The key parts of cheongsam include chest circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, shoulder width, etc. The difference calculation of these parts is mainly based on ergonomics and style design; Chest circumference difference: Usually, the chest circumference design of cheongsam will take into account the wearer's actual chest circumference and the elasticity of the fabric. If the fabric is inelastic, the designed chest circumference should be a certain value larger than the actual chest circumference (such as 3-5 cm) to ensure comfortable wearing. Chest circumference difference = designed chest circumference - actual chest circumference; Waist circumference difference: The calculation of waist circumference difference is similar to that of chest circumference difference, but considering the waist-tightening effect of cheongsam, the waist circumference design is usually smaller than the actual waist circumference (such as 2-4 cm) to highlight the waist curve of the wearer. Difference = actual waist circumference - designed waist circumference; Hip circumference difference: Hip circumference design should take into account the wearer's actual hip circumference and the style of cheongsam. For straight or slightly waisted cheongsam, the hip circumference design can be close to or slightly smaller than the actual hip circumference; for tight or hip-hugging cheongsam, the hip circumference design may need to be a certain value larger than the actual hip circumference (such as 2-3 cm). Hip circumference difference = designed hip circumference - actual hip circumference; Shoulder width difference: The shoulder width difference is usually not large, because the shoulder design of cheongsam needs to fit the wearer's actual shoulder width, but considering the elasticity of the fabric and the comfort of wearing, the designed shoulder width may be slightly larger than the actual shoulder width (such as 0.5-1 cm). Shoulder width difference = designed shoulder width - actual shoulder width.

[0055] (2) Convert the difference into specific counts and revolutions based on the horizontal and vertical densities of the sample trial weaving: After calculating the difference in each key part, it is necessary to convert these differences into specific counts and revolutions based on the horizontal and vertical densities of the sample trial weaving. This involves the understanding and application of knitting technology: Understanding horizontal and vertical densities: horizontal density: refers to the number of horizontal rows of knitted fabric loops within a certain width, which reflects the tightness of the knitted fabric in the horizontal direction; vertical density: refers to the number of vertical rows of knitted fabric loops within a certain length. It reflects the tightness of the knitted fabric in the longitudinal direction; Convert the difference to count and number of revolutions: Chest difference conversion: Assuming the chest difference is X cm, and the horizontal density of the sample trial is Y rows / cm, the number of coil rows corresponding to the chest difference is X×Y rows. Since the number of coil rows is usually directly related to the count (or number of needles) of the loom, the X×Y columns can be directly converted to the difference in count (or number of needles). However, please note that the conversion here may also need to take into account the specific model and settings of the loom; Waist difference conversion: The conversion process of waist difference is similar to that of chest circumference, but taking into account waist circumference It is a longitudinal dimension, so it should be converted using vertical density. Assuming that the waist circumference difference is X cm, and the vertical density of the sample trial is Y rows / cm, the number of vertical rows of coils corresponding to the waist circumference difference is X×Y rows. Similarly, the number of vertical rows of coils is usually directly related to the number of revolutions of the loom, so X×Y rows can be directly converted into the difference in number of revolutions, but the specific model and settings of the loom must also be considered; Conversion of hip circumference and shoulder width difference: The conversion process of hip circumference and shoulder width difference is similar to that of chest circumference and waist circumference, using horizontal density and vertical density for conversion respectively, and taking into account the count (or number of needles) and number of revolutions of the loom.

[0056] Then, divide the count difference by 2 to determine the specific counts that need to be added or removed on both sides. At the same time, according to the principle of ergonomics, these increases and decreases in stitches are reasonably distributed to form a reasonable arc. In addition, the number of stitches of the slit of the cheongsam must be clearly marked. In order to ensure that the hem of the cheongsam does not expand outward, the added yarn technology is used to add 2 to 3 turns of elastic yarn at the hem for weaving to ensure the stability of the hem size and the invariance of the shape. The number of stitches and the arc distribution of the hem must be marked on the chest. The collar design adopts a four-level structure, and the number of rows and turns of the collar are accurately calculated. For details, please refer to Figure 7 .

[0057] Step 6, according to the various process parameters of cheongsam and using a compound needle 18-needle computer flat knitting machine, the double-twisted silk yarn is computer-woven with the cooperation of an intelligent CNC yarn ring system to obtain the cheongsam body fabric; at the same time, a Stoll 16-needle computer flat knitting machine is used to computer-weave the double-twisted silk yarn to obtain the cheongsam collar fabric.

[0058] Step 7, using a 20-needle circular sewing machine to sew the cheongsam collar fabric to the cheongsam body fabric, thereby obtaining a cheongsam garment, wherein the cheongsam body fabric is cylindrical in shape.

[0059] Specifically, after computer pattern making, multiple stepper motors are respectively arranged in the front plate knitting area and the back plate knitting area of ​​the computer flat knitting machine, and each stepper motor is controlled and connected with its corresponding rake control chip; the MCU main control chip of the upper head of the Shima Seiki 18-needle fully formed computer flat knitting machine sends stepper motor drive signals to the rake control chip based on the head position signal and the preset fully formed knitting requirements. The rake control chip converts these signals into the motion curve of the stepper motor, and drives the rake to move up and down to pull the fabric and control the tension it receives in the corresponding area. For details, please refer to Figure 8 Due to the gravity when pulling downward, the fabric will be evenly stressed. The raking technology can realize independent tension control within a very small range (such as no more than 5 cm) of the fabric, improve the flexibility and precision of weaving, and solve the problem of silk fiber in the process of flat knitting garments.

[0060] In addition, through the coordinated work of multiple rakes, cylindrical weaving is carried out to solve the problem of silk yarn sliding down when woven into fabric, so that the whole piece of clothing can be fully knitted and the limitations of traditional sewing technology can be avoided. Thus, the fully knitted effect completes the weaving of the entire body of the garment, that is, a whole garment is directly woven from a single yarn without manual sewing, thus saving labor and greatly improving the weaving efficiency. At the same time, a stiff four-level collar and other single-sided hemming accessories are woven on a Stoll 16-needle computer flat knitting machine, and the four-level collar is sewn to the cylindrical body with a 20-needle disc sewing machine, thus completing the weaving of the entire cheongsam and obtaining the cheongsam garment.

[0061] Step 8, the cheongsam garment is inspected for yarn selection and repair, then washed and dried, and ironed after drying.

[0062] Specifically, after the garment is woven, the yarn selection and repair inspection process is carried out. For details, please refer to Fig. 9 ; Then, by setting the temperature between 26 and 46 degrees and adjusting the liquid level between 40 and 38 degrees, a 40-minute washing process is set to help reduce the vertical shrinkage of the fabric and improve the dimensional stability of the fabric; after washing, in order to ensure that the silk knitted fabric achieves the required dimensional stability and feel, it needs to be dried. During the drying process, the fabric changes from a wet state to a dry state, which is a key process to reduce the vertical shrinkage of the silk knitted fabric; finally, the cheongsam is ironed after drying, using a fixed rack customized for the cheongsam silhouette. For details, please refer to Fig.10 , using natural gas or medium-pressure steam for heating, and adopting the overall ironing and stretching method to control the size and shape of the silk knitted cheongsam. This step helps to improve the dimensional stability and appearance quality of the fabric; the final cheongsam garment can be found in Figures 14 to 16 .

[0063] Furthermore, the beneficial effects brought by the present invention are:

[0064] (1) Air permeability: In the field of textile material science, it can be seen from the fabric parameter table in Table 1 that, through the comparative analysis of the air permeability of silk woven fabrics and silk knitted fabrics, the air permeability of silk woven fabrics is 873.525 millimeters per second (mm / s), while that of silk knitted fabrics reaches 2099.75 mm / s. The latter is nearly 2.4 times the air permeability of the former. In contrast, the high air permeability of silk knitted fabrics means that their fabric structure is looser and the air circulation is better. This feature makes silk knitted fabrics superior to silk woven fabrics in terms of air permeability.

[0065] (2) Loss rate: From the weight of the finished knitted cheongsam and the weight of the yarn used, it can be seen that the seamless knitting process has a fabric utilization rate close to 100%. For details, please refer to Fig.11 Similarly, after cutting and arranging the same type of silk woven fabric, it is found that the utilization rate of woven fabric is 76.3%, and the utilization rate of auxiliary materials is 15.2%. For details, please refer to Fig.12 and Fig.13 At the same time, the production of silk woven cheongsam also requires the consumption of corresponding shaping strips, linings and other auxiliary materials, which are not consumed in the production of seamless knitted cheongsam made of silk fibers. It can be seen that compared with silk woven cheongsam, the use of materials for the same cheongsam made of silk fibers using seamless technology achieves almost "zero waste".

[0066] (3) Elongation: From the data provided in the fabric parameter table in Table 1, it can be observed that the warp breaking strength of the silk woven fabric is 341.92N, which is 213.23N in the weft direction, showing a significant strength difference between the warp and weft directions, which reflects the characteristics of the woven structure in which the warp and weft yarns are closely interwoven and the warp yarns bear more loads; its warp breaking elongation is 18.3%, while that in the weft direction reaches 29.91%, indicating that the weft direction has better elastic deformation ability; in contrast, the mechanical properties of the silk knitted fabric present different characteristics, with a warp breaking strength of 297.32N and a weft breaking strength of 297.32N. 149.78N, although the values ​​are lower than those of woven fabrics, the particularity of knitted structure is that its strength and elongation in the warp and weft directions (usually referred to as the longitudinal and transverse directions) are often closer, showing more balanced mechanical properties; in particular, the elongation at break of silk knitted fabrics in the warp direction is as high as 114.25%, and in the weft direction is also 135.29%, which is far higher than that of woven fabrics, highlighting the excellent ductility and wearing comfort of knitted fabrics; the advantage of silk knitted fabrics is that their unique weaving process gives the fabrics good elasticity and drape, making the clothes fit the human body curve better and move freely;

[0067] In addition, based on the analysis of the mechanical properties of textile materials, since silk knitted fabrics have a higher elongation, it means that they have greater flexibility in adapting to different sizes and morphological changes of the human body; therefore, in the clothing production process, compared with silk woven clothing, silk knitted clothing does not need to cover such a wide range of sizes in size settings to meet the needs of most consumers; according to its weft elongation at break is 4.52 times that of silk woven fabrics under the same conditions, referring to the setting of five sizes of conventional clothing, silk knitted clothing can cover 4.52 times the numerical expansion in the three measurements, which is equivalent to achieving a reduction of about 3 / 4 in the size reserve, that is, without sacrificing wearing comfort and fit, by reducing the number of sizes to optimize production efficiency and inventory management, thereby reducing inventory costs; this inference is based on an in-depth analysis of the mechanical properties of fabrics, and provides a scientific basis for silk knitted clothing in production planning, cost control and market adaptability, which helps to guide the traditional clothing industry to more accurately grasp the matching relationship between size design and fabric characteristics in actual operations.

[0068] In summary, the present invention achieves the purpose of one-piece molding of silk cheongsam by performing double-twisting treatment on silk yarn and adopting the composite needle of Shimadzu Corporation and the rake technology of computer flat knitting machine, thereby solving the problem of waste of silk fabrics in production and loss of labor and energy due to sewing; double-twisting of yarn: the twisted double-twisted yarn enhances the strength and elasticity of the yarn and improves its weavability. After the double-twisting treatment, the silk yarn presents a tighter and more uniform structure; composite needles are used in conjunction with an intelligent CNC yarn ring system: the sliding and movement of the composite needle 18 needles are precisely controlled by the intelligent CNC yarn ring system to ensure accurate yarn weaving and stable product quality, effectively guide the yarn, and reduce yarn breakage and wear; and a plurality of stepper motors are respectively provided in the front plate weaving area and the rear plate weaving area of ​​the computer flat knitting machine, and each stepper motor is connected to its corresponding rake control chip for control. The rake technology can realize independent tension control of the fabric within a very small range, thereby improving the flexibility and precision of weaving.

[0069] The above embodiments are merely illustrative of the principles and effects of the present invention, and are not intended to limit the present invention. All equivalent modifications or changes made by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and technical ideas disclosed by the present invention shall still be covered by the claims of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for making a silk seamless knitted cheongsam, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: Determine the size of the cheongsam to be produced, wherein the size of the cheongsam includes the horizontal size of the cheongsam and the vertical size of the cheongsam, wherein the horizontal size of the cheongsam includes the chest width, waist width, hip width, shoulder width, collar width and other sizes; the vertical size of the cheongsam includes the length of the dress, hanging shoulders, oblique shoulders, waist height, hip height, hem ribbing height, collar depth, collar height and other sizes; According to the cheongsam body sample and the cheongsam collar sample, the horizontal density and vertical density values ​​of each tissue of the cheongsam are obtained, and the various process parameters of the cheongsam are determined according to the horizontal density and vertical density values ​​of each tissue of the cheongsam, wherein the corresponding horizontal needle number and vertical rotation number can be obtained by multiplying the horizontal size and vertical size of each part of the cheongsam with the horizontal density and vertical density respectively; According to the various process parameters of the cheongsam, a computerized flat knitting machine with 18 compound needles is used, and the double-twisted silk yarn is computerized knitted in cooperation with an intelligent numerically controlled yarn ring system, thereby obtaining a cheongsam body fabric; at the same time, a Stoll 16-needle computerized flat knitting machine is used to computer knit the double-twisted silk yarn, thereby obtaining a cheongsam collar fabric; A 20-needle circular sewing machine is used to sew the cheongsam collar fabric piece onto the cheongsam body fabric piece, thereby obtaining a cheongsam garment, wherein the cheongsam body fabric piece is in a cylindrical shape.

2. The method for making a silk seamless knitted cheongsam according to claim 1, characterized in that: Before determining the size of the cheongsam to be produced, the following steps are included: A single-strand silk yarn made of silk fiber is used, and the single-strand silk yarn is subjected to a double-strand twisting process, wherein the single-strand silk yarn is a single-strand silk yarn made of dyed pure mulberry silk fiber; The silk yarn after double twisting treatment is tested on a compound needle 18-needle computer flat knitting machine and in cooperation with an intelligent numerical control yarn ring system, and a cheongsam body sample is obtained according to the test results, wherein the compound needle 18-needle computer flat knitting machine and the intelligent numerical control yarn ring system are both from Shimadzu Corporation; The density of each tissue of the cheongsam body is obtained according to the cheongsam body sample, wherein the density of each tissue of the cheongsam body includes the horizontal density and the vertical density of each tissue of the cheongsam body.

3. The method for making a seamless silk knitted cheongsam according to claim 2, characterized in that: Before determining the size of the cheongsam to be produced, the method further includes: The silk yarn after double twisting treatment is tested on a STOLL 16-needle computer flat knitting machine, and a cheongsam collar sample is obtained according to the test results, wherein the STOLL 16-needle computer flat knitting machine is a German STOLL 16-needle computer flat knitting machine; The density of the cheongsam collar tissue is obtained according to the cheongsam collar sample, wherein the density of the cheongsam collar tissue includes the horizontal density and the vertical density of the cheongsam collar tissue.

4. The method for making a silk seamless knitted cheongsam according to claim 2, characterized in that: In the double-twisting process of the single-ply silk yarn, the silk yarn is divided into two strands and then twisted by a twisting machine. The twisted double-ply silk yarn enhances the strength and elasticity of the yarn; and in the double-twisting process, the single yarn tension is controlled at 15cn, the spindle speed is set to 8200r / min, and the twist is set to 1800 to ensure the uniformity and stability of the silk yarn.

5. The method for making a silk seamless knitted cheongsam according to claim 2, characterized in that: After the single-strand silk yarn is subjected to double-strand twisting treatment, before the double-strand twisted silk yarn is used for testing, the method further comprises: using a net bag made of high-strength and wear-resistant nylon material to fix the yarn tube.

6. The method for making a silk seamless knitted cheongsam according to claim 2, characterized in that: The process of obtaining the horizontal density and vertical density values ​​of each tissue of the cheongsam according to the cheongsam body sample and the cheongsam collar sample, and determining various process parameters of the cheongsam according to the horizontal density and vertical density values ​​of each tissue of the cheongsam, further includes: The key parts of the cheongsam are determined, and the difference of each key part is calculated. Then, according to the horizontal density and vertical density of each tissue of the cheongsam body, the difference is converted into a specific count and number of revolutions. The key parts of the cheongsam include areas with large size differences such as the chest, waist, and hips.

7. The method for making a seamless silk knitted cheongsam according to claim 6, characterized in that: The calculating of the difference of each key part includes: calculating the difference of each key part according to the following formula: Chest circumference difference = designed chest circumference - actual chest circumference; waist circumference difference = actual waist circumference - designed waist circumference; hip circumference difference = designed hip circumference - actual hip circumference; shoulder width difference: shoulder width difference = designed shoulder width - actual shoulder width.

8. The method for making a seamless silk knitted cheongsam according to claim 7, characterized in that: After converting the difference into specific counts and rotations according to the horizontal density and vertical density of each tissue of the cheongsam body, the method further includes: Divide the obtained count difference by 2 to determine the specific number of stitches that need to be added or released on both sides. At the same time, according to the principles of ergonomics, these increases and decreases in stitches should be reasonably distributed to form a reasonable arc. In addition, the slit parts of the cheongsam must be clearly marked with the number of stitches of the lingerie structure, and the adding yarn technology should be used to add 2 to 3 turns of elastic yarn at the hem for weaving. The chest must also be marked with the number of stitches of the lingerie structure and the arc distribution.

9. The method for making a seamless silk knitted cheongsam according to claim 1, characterized in that: A plurality of stepper motors are respectively provided in the front plate weaving area and the back plate weaving area of ​​the computer flat knitting machine, and each stepper motor is connected to its corresponding rake control chip for control; each rake control chip is controlled by the MCU main control chip on the head of the compound needle 18-needle computer flat knitting machine, and through the coordinated work of multiple rake control chips, cylindrical weaving is carried out to obtain a cylindrical cheongsam body fabric.

10. The method for making a silk seamless knitted cheongsam according to claim 1, characterized in that: After the 20-needle circular sewing machine is used to sew the cheongsam collar fabric to the cheongsam body fabric to obtain the cheongsam garment, the method further includes: performing a yarn picking and repairing inspection process on the cheongsam garment, then washing and drying the cheongsam, and ironing the cheongsam after the drying process.

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