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Dyestuffs of plant origin and use thereof for colouring compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions

a technology of dyeing compositions and dyeing pigments, which is applied in the field of dyeing pigments, can solve the problems of rare in the plant world and the never-envisioned use of dyeing pigments made of these ultrastructures

Inactive Publication Date: 2011-09-15
LVMH RECH
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  • Summary
  • Abstract
  • Description
  • Claims
  • Application Information

AI Technical Summary

Benefits of technology

Thus, the dyestuff of the invention comprises the plant ultrastructures directly responsible for the colored effect which constitute the essential part of this dyestuff. However, it can also comprise a fraction termed “auxiliary fraction”, or alternatively “auxiliary part”, extracted from the plant at the same time as the iridisomes, it being possible for this fraction to be of a varied nature depending on the plant from which the dyestuff of the invention is extracted. This auxiliary fraction, which does not contribute directly to the colored effect, can play the role of a carrier, a support or a stabilizer and does not need to be eliminated during the preparation of a colored composition. It may in fact be found that the presence of this auxiliary fraction facilitates the handling of the dyestuff of the invention or confers thereon a supplementary effect which is useful, for example, for improving the texture of the composition to which the dyestuff is added in order to color it.
Thus, the extraction of the dyestuff of the invention from a colored plant material comprising iridisomes makes it possible to implement an innovative technique for coloring compositions of a varied type, such as cosmetic compositions, medicaments, food products, inks, dyes, paints and products applicable in the graphic arts field and the decorating field in general.
These dyestuffs furthermore exhibit a stability and an innocuousness which offer an additional guarantee that the intrinsic qualities of the compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, in which they are dispersed will be preserved.
Finally, they are insoluble in water and in all the solvents normally used, and are compatible with the nonaqueous adjuvants normally used in cosmetic compositions, thereby making their use particularly advantageous as colored pigments dispersed in a cosmetic composition.
More specifically, the invention relates to a new dyestuff which owes its colored and coloration qualities to the fact that the inventors of the present invention have been able to develop a method for extracting the structure responsible for the coloration of the plant material, without degrading it, thus resulting in a stable, colored product which can be used as a pigment, in particular in the cosmetics field.

Problems solved by technology

However, although structural colors are quite frequently present in the animal kingdom, they are very rare in the plant world and have been detected only very recently and in a limited number of plant species.
However, up until now, the use of these plant ultrastructures as colored pigments has never been envisioned owing to the fact that the colored effect comes from a fragile arrangement of macromolecules capable of being degraded during the implementation of the extraction process.

Method used

the structure of the environmentally friendly knitted fabric provided by the present invention; figure 2 Flow chart of the yarn wrapping machine for environmentally friendly knitted fabrics and storage devices; image 3 Is the parameter map of the yarn covering machine
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Examples

Experimental program
Comparison scheme
Effect test

example 1

Preparation of a Dyestuff of the Invention, in the Form of a Colored Wax, from Arils of Seeds of Ravenala madagascariensis

A dyestuff according to the invention is prepared according to the following steps:

1—100 g of arils of seeds of Ravenala madagascariensis are placed in the tank of an ultrasonic extractor equipped with 4 piezoelectric devices (=400 W), with two liters of osmosed water to which 2 ml of aqueous ammonia at 20% (22° Be) have been added.

2—In order to carry out a decompartmentalization of the plant cells, sonication is performed (submission of the plant material to ultrasound). Said sonication is carried out at 55° C. (starting temperature) for approximately 10 minutes, at a frequency of 27 kHz. During this operation, no notable change in temperature occurs (the effect of the cavitation of the ultrasound creates an increase in temperature which compensates for the losses due to spontaneous cooling).

3—After this step, a first filtration is carried out on a sieve or a s...

example 2

Method for Preparing a Dyestuff of the Invention, in the Form of a Colored Wax, from Arils of Seeds of Ravenala madagascariensis

According to a method different than that described above in example 1, the arils of seeds of Ravenala madagascariensis are covered with ethyl acetate or acetone and then the whole is placed in an ultrasonic extractor tank of the type of that of example 1. They are then subjected to the action of ultrasound in order to perform the cell decompartmentalization, at the frequency of approximately 27 kHz for a few minutes, until the plant material has been exhausted, and then the extract is filtered. The sonication lasts approximately 10 minutes. The wax released dissolves in the organic solvent.

The organic phase thus obtained is then supplemented with half of its volume of water. The addition of water causes a release of the wax, which, from that moment, flocculates in the aqueous phase, entraining with it the blue pigment. The aqueous phase containing the flo...

example 3

Anti-Aging Cosmetic Composition Comprising a Pigment According to the Invention

The dyestuff obtained according to example 1 is added to the oily phase of an oil-in-water emulsion for the prevention of skin aging, the formula of which is described below:

The percentages are expressed by weight relative to the final composition:

Centella asiatica plant extract0.1Blue dye according to example 12Surfactant (Arlacel ® 165 VP)595% cetyl alcohol1Stearyl alcohol1Beeswax1.5Oil (Perleam ®)8.5Tri caprate / caprylate glycerides3Silicone oil (dimethicone 100 CS)1Polymer (Keltrol ®)0.35Sodium hydroxide0.04Tetrasodium EDTA powder0.1Preservatives0.5Waterqs 100

The composition is a bluish-colored anti-aging cream, the activity of which is aimed at preventing or slowing down the signs of skin aging.

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PUM

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Abstract

Dyestuff of plant origin is obtained from a colored part of a plant species, the cell tissues of which contain iridisomes responsible for the coloration of said part. Most particularly, a blue dyestuff is obtained from the arils of the seeds of the plant species Ravenala madagascariensis. Compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, are especially intended for making up the skin or superficial body growths, containing said dyestuff.

Description

The subject of the present invention is novel dyestuffs of plant origin, and also the use thereof for coloring compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions.The invention applies most particularly to the preparation of colored cosmetic compositions, in particular intended for making up the skin or superficial body growths. It also applies to colored compositions of any type for other industrial fields, such as the field of food products, that of medicaments, inks, dyes, paints and products applicable in the graphic arts field and the decorating field in general.PRIOR ARTThe term “pigments” generally denotes coloring substances which are insoluble in the medium that they color.In general, in the cosmetic field, two types of pigments are used.More specifically, pigments, in particular of plant, animal or mineral origin, which cause a coloration effect by selective absorption of certain wavelengths of the incident light when they are dispersed in a medium, for example a cosmetic co...

Claims

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Application Information

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IPC IPC(8): A61K8/97A61Q1/02A61Q3/00A61Q1/10
CPCA61K8/97A61Q1/10A61Q5/065A61Q19/08C09B61/00A61Q19/007A61Q1/02A61Q3/00A61Q5/00A61Q19/00C09B67/0096A61K8/9741A61K8/9789A61K8/9794
Inventor ANDRE, PATRICEGARCIA, MICHEL
Owner LVMH RECH
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