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Self-tanning agents and dehydroascorbic acid or a monomeric, polymeric or isomeric derivative thereof for artifically coloring the skin

a self-tanning agent and self-tanning technology, which is applied in the field of self-tanning agents and dehydroascorbic acid or a monomeric, polymeric or isomeric derivative thereof for artifically coloring the skin, can solve the problems of adverse changes, long time-consuming and laborious, and inability to achieve natural tan, etc., to achieve simple, effective and fast

Inactive Publication Date: 2010-08-26
LOREAL SA
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  • Summary
  • Abstract
  • Description
  • Claims
  • Application Information

AI Technical Summary

Benefits of technology

[0017]After extensive studies conducted in the field of artificial coloring of the skin, it has now been discovered that dehydroascorbic acid or a polymer thereof combined with at least one self-tanning agent such as dihydroxyacetone can impart, after topical application of the product to the skin, an artificial coloration close to that of a natural tan, which develops more quickly (visible after 15 minutes) than standard self-tanning agents used alone. This combination gives stronger colors whose red component is more pronounced, and affords a range of shades closer to natural pigmentation than those obtained with standard self-tanning agents used alone.
[0018]The coloring products in accordance with the invention containing this combination also have the advantage, after application to the skin, of very rapidly producing a color (after about 15 minutes) and of thus enabling visualization of the area of application of the product.

Problems solved by technology

However, a natural tan is not always desirable since it requires long exposure to UV radiation, in particular to UV-A radiation that causes tanning of the skin but, however, is liable to induce an adverse change therein, in particular in the case of sensitive skin or of skin that is continually exposed to solar radiation (erythema, burns, loss of elasticity, appearance of wrinkles, premature aging of the skin, and the like).
One drawback of DHA is the length of time the coloration takes to develop: specifically, several hours (3 to 5 hours in general) are required for the coloration to be revealed.
Another drawback of DHA is its tendency to produce yellow shades that harm the production of a natural skin tone.
However, the susceptibility of DHA towards many chemical species limits the possible associations (e.g.: colored iron oxides).
Furthermore, the colorants used (carmine, eosin, water-soluble azo dyes, etc.) do not have good resistance to water and may stain clothing.

Method used

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  • Self-tanning agents and dehydroascorbic acid or a monomeric, polymeric or isomeric derivative thereof for artifically coloring the skin
  • Self-tanning agents and dehydroascorbic acid or a monomeric, polymeric or isomeric derivative thereof for artifically coloring the skin
  • Self-tanning agents and dehydroascorbic acid or a monomeric, polymeric or isomeric derivative thereof for artifically coloring the skin

Examples

Experimental program
Comparison scheme
Effect test

examples a

, B and C

[0591]The following three aqueous-alcoholic self-tanning solutions are prepared:

ExampleA (outsideExamplethe inven-B (inven-Example Ction)tion)(invention)Ingredientsweight %weight %weight %Dihydroxyacetone5.02.52.5Dehydroascorbic acid—2.5Dehydroascorbic acid—2.5dimer of formula:Ethanol / water mixtureqs 100qs 100qs 100(50 / 50)

[0592]Protocol:

[0593]Samples of Vitro-skin™ 2.5 cm×2.5 cm in size are hydrated for 24 hours in a container containing 20% glycerol in water.

[0594]Vitro-skin™ is a substrate that imitates the properties of the surface of human skin. It contains proteins and fats and has a typography, a pH, a critical surface tension and an ionic strength similar to those of human skin.

[0595]The coloring product to be tested is spread, at a rate of 2 mg.cm−2, using a fingerstall onto the Vitro-skin™ samples.

[0596]The Vitro-skin™ samples are then incubated in a hermetic container containing an 80 / 20 glycerol / water solution and finally placed in an oven at 32° C.

[0597]Colorime...

example d

Nacreous Colored Gel

[0609]

PhaseChemical nameweight %ACyclopentadimethylsiloxane12.00Mixture of oxyethylenated / oxypropylenated10.00polydimethylsiloxane (18 EO / 18 EO),cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and water (10 / 88 / 2)BSodium chloride2.00Disodium salt of brilliant yellow FCF (CI: 15985)0.020Disodium salt of fuchsin acid D (CI: 17200)0.003Non-stabilized caramel at 25% in water1.50Mica-titanium oxide (71.5 / 28.5) (CI: 77019 + 77891)1.20Dipropylene glycol10.00Propylene glycol23.40Microbiologically clean deionized waterqs 100CMicrobiologically clean deionized water10.00Dihydroxyacetone powder2.50Dehydroascorbic acid2.50DDenatured 96° ethyl alcohol5.00

[0610]Procedure:

[0611]The emulsion is prepared without heating. Phase A is weighed out and stirred using a Moritz blender. Phase B is weighed out and is emulsified in phase A, while uniformly increasing the speed. Stirring is continued for 5 minutes before incorporating phase C (DHA and DHAA dissolved in water). Stirring is continued for 5 minutes ...

example e

Cream Gel SPF 15

[0612]

PhaseChemical nameweight %AIsohexadecane3.00(C14 / C15 linear) trialkyl citrate2.00Methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isobutyl p-0.50hydroxybenzoate / 2-phenoxyethanol mixture2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone6.004-tert-Butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane3.002-Ethylhexyl salicylate5.002-Ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate10.00Polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 350 cSt)1.00α,ω-Dihydroxylated3.00polydimethylsiloxane / polydimethylsiloxane mixture5 cStC12 / C15 alkyl benzoate2.00Glyceryl monostearate / polyethylene glycol stearate1.50mixture (100 EO)Mixture of arachidyl polyglucosides and of arachidyl2.25and behenyl alcohols (15 / 85)BMicrobiologically clean deionized waterqs 100Glycerol2.00Propylene glycol6.00Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, disodium salt,0.10dihydrateMethyl p-hydroxybenzoate0.20CInverse emulsion of polyacrylamidotauramide0.50(AMPS) in sodium salt form (emulsifier: sorbitanoleate, inversion agent: Polysorbate-80)DMicrobiologically clean deionized water10.00Dihydroxya...

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Abstract

Cosmetic compositions for artificially coloring the skin contain, formulated into a physiologically acceptable medium,a) at least dehydroascorbic acid and / or a monomeric derivative and / or isomeric form and / or polymeric derivative thereof, andb) at least one preferably monocarbonyl or polycarbonyl self-tanning agent;the dehydroascorbic acid may be formed “in situ” from ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof or a salt thereof via chemical oxidation and / or via enzymatic oxidation.

Description

CROSS-REFERENCE TO PRIORITY / PROVISIONAL APPLICATIONS[0001]This application claims priority under 35 U.S.C. §120 of U.S. Provisional Application No. 60 / 929,965, filed Jul. 19, 2007, and of §119 of FR 0756353, filed Jul. 9, 2007, and is a continuation / national phase of PCT / FR 2008 / 051262, filed Jul. 7, 2008 and designating the United States (published in the French language on Jan. 22, 2009 as WO 2009 / 010682 A2; the title and abstract were also published in English), each hereby expressly incorporated by reference in its entirety and each assigned to the assignee hereof.BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION[0002]1. Technical Field of the Invention[0003]The present invention relates to topically applicable compositions for artificially coloring the skin, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium[0004]a) at least dehydroascorbic acid and / or a monomeric derivative thereof of formula (I) and / or an isomer thereof of formula (I′) that will be defined later and / or a polymeric and especially d...

Claims

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Application Information

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Patent Type & Authority Applications(United States)
IPC IPC(8): A61K8/49
CPCA61K8/042A61K8/062A61Q19/04A61K8/676A61K2800/88A61K8/064A61P17/00
Inventor BAZELAIRE, EVECHOISY, PATRICKPRUCHE, FRANCIS
Owner LOREAL SA
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