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Makeup composition comprising a black colour mixture of pigments

a technology of black colour and pigment mixture, applied in the field of make-up composition comprising a black colour mixture of pigments, can solve the problems of difficult reproducibility, significant problem in the development of novel pigments, and difficulty in economically advantageous straightaway use of pigment mixtures to produce this colour, etc., and achieve the effect of improving the visual

Active Publication Date: 2012-10-18
LVMH RECH
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  • Summary
  • Abstract
  • Description
  • Claims
  • Application Information

AI Technical Summary

Benefits of technology

[0024]The subtractive mixture especially makes it possible to advantageously substitute it for nanoscale carbon black in cosmetic compositions of black colour, especially intended for making up the skin or lips.
[0025]Furthermore, due to the intensity and depth of the black colour obtained, the subtractive mixture has an unexpected advantage when it is combined in compositions with optical effect particles such as nacres.
[0026]The inventors have thus demonstrated that the combination of a subtractive mixture and of optical effect particles in a coloured or colouring composition makes it possible to accentuate the visual effect produced by said optical effect particles, when this effect is compared to that produced when the same optical effect particles are combined with an intrinsically black mineral pigment in the same composition.
[0027]Owing to such a subtractive mixture producing an intense black colour; it is possible to prepare compositions for making up the skin, lips, nails or keratin fibres that produce a film of a more intense and deeper black, and also an optional improved optical effect when the composition additionally comprises optical effect particles.

Problems solved by technology

The development of novel pigments is a significant problem for many industries, who seek pigments that produce a superior visual effect with respect to hues or intensity of the colours.
Of course, as explained previously, due to the availability on the market of many pigments that are pure, of mineral origin, and of intrinsic black colour, it is not economically advantageous to straightaway use mixtures of pigments to produce this colour.
Furthermore, the preparation of a mixture of pigments exhibits difficulties of reproducibility when it is sought to obtain the colour that is exactly desired (obtaining a dark brown instead of a black), and risks of incompatibilities and / or of instability which may adversely affect the hue of the colour resulting from the mixture.
Indeed, carbon black is in the form of nanoscale particles that may present a risk of passing through the skin barrier.

Method used

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  • Makeup composition comprising a black colour mixture of pigments

Examples

Experimental program
Comparison scheme
Effect test

example 1

Dispersion of the Subtractive Mixture

[0169]Dispersions were prepared comprising the subtractive mixture of black colour according to the formulae below (% by weight relative to the final mixture):

[0170]BLACK 1 Mixture

[0171]52% of an aluminium lake of the dye FD&C Blue No. 1 (CI 42090)

[0172]40% of an aluminium lake of the dye FD&C Yellow No. 5 (CI 19140)

[0173]8% of a calcium lake of the dye DC Red No. 7 (CI 15850)

[0174]BLACK 2 Mixture

[0175]31.2% of an aluminium lake of the dye FD&C Blue No. 1 (CI 42090)

[0176]52% of an aluminium lake of the dye FD&C Yellow No. 5 (CI 19140)

[0177]16.8% of a calcium lake of the dye DC Red No. 7 (CI 15850)

[0178]Each organic pigment constituting the BLACK 1 or BLACK 2 mixture was dispersed to 4% by weight in a transparent nail varnish base essentially consisting of a film-forming polymer such as nitrocellulose, at least one plasticizer and at least one rheology additive, in a solvent or mixture of solvents (butyl acetate and / or ethyl acetate).

[0179]The fin...

example 2

Calculation of the Luminance L* (CIELAB)

[0180]For the measurements of L*, the dispersions of subtractive mixture prepared in Example 1 were used.

[0181]Control compositions were prepared separately that comprise 4% by weight of an intrinsically black pigment (black iron oxide or carbon black) dispersed in the same nail varnish base as in Example 1.

[0182]A film having a thickness of 300 μm was formed by spreading a composition above onto a contrast card, using a spreader bar.

[0183]The film was dried on the contrast cards, before the colorimetric measurement is carried out with an MA 98 spectrocolorimeter from the company X Rite.

[0184]The luminance values L* were obtained under a 10° D65 illuminant. A diode array captured reflection values at five additional angles (15°, 25°, 45°, 75°, 110°) measured relative to the specular light. The luminance values L* were reported in FIG. 1, which included an L* axis for each of the five angles of reflection.

[0185]The values of L*(15°) measured ar...

example 3

Measurement of the Nacreous Effect (SRR GLOSS)

[0187]3.1 Nacreous Effect Produced by a White Nacre Having a “Gold” Sheen

[0188]The visual effect exceptionally produced by the combination, in a composition, of an “optical effect” material and of the subtractive mixture of black colour of the invention was demonstrated.

[0189]A white nacre having a “gold” sheen (Reflecks Dimension Sparkling Gold, BASF) at a content of 2% by weight was added to a dispersion from Example 1 comprising the subtractive mixture BLACK 1 or BLACK 2, and also to the control compositions from Example 2. The values of L* and of the components a* and b* (Table 2) were measured on a dry film according to the same method as in the preceding example.

TABLE 2RS GOLD +RS GOLD +RS GOLD +black ironRS GOLD +BLACK 1BLACK 2oxidecarbon blacka*b*a*b*a*b*a*b*15°−18.59−4.89−6.770.21−1.773.650.04−1.2825°−7.66−2.5−1.870.66−0.514.62−0.27−0.8245°−0.080.92.673.20.963.16−0.12−0.2175°1.712.053.323.831.181.23−0.050110° 2.152.183.383.581.1...

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Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising a black colour subtractive mixture consisting of at least one blue organic pigment, at least one yellow organic pigment and at least one red organic pigment, which are mixed homogeneously, said mixture having a luminance value L*(15°) of less than 30.

Description

[0001]The invention relates to a novel mixture of pigments and their use in coloured or colouring compositions intended for makeup.PRIOR ART[0002]Pigments are compounds that absorb part of the visible spectrum of light, of which spectrum the wavelengths are approximately between 400 and 700 nm, and reflect the non-absorbed wavelengths (complementary spectrum) detected by the eye.[0003]They are commonly used in pulverulent form, dispersed in bases or binders in order to be incorporated into coloured or colouring compositions (paints, inks, makeup products) which are applied to a support to which the pigment remains attached.[0004]Depending on their chemical nature, pigments are classified as “mineral pigments”, which comprise bonds with metal ions, especially in the form of oxides, or “organic pigments” which are hydrocarbon-based, often aromatic, compounds customarily incorporating at least one excitable chromophore group.[0005]The development of novel pigments is a significant prob...

Claims

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Application Information

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IPC IPC(8): A61K8/49A61Q1/04A61Q1/06A61Q3/02A61Q5/06A61Q1/10A61K8/02A61Q1/08
CPCA61Q1/06A61Q1/10C09B63/005C09B67/0051A61K8/26A61K8/466A61K2800/43A61K8/4946A61Q1/04A61Q1/08A61Q3/02A61Q19/02A61K8/19A61Q1/02A61K8/29A61K8/02A61Q19/00
Inventor OUDRY, PATRICKCHEVALIER, MYRIAMGOMBART, EMILIE
Owner LVMH RECH
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