Perfume compositions

a technology of compositions and perfumes, applied in the field of perfume compositions, can solve the problems of difficult for formulators to reliably use literature information to make effective perfumes, mood state change, and inability to optimise materials for their acceptability, etc., and achieves sufficient pleasantness/acceptability, good hedonic properties, and high activation

Inactive Publication Date: 2004-04-01
QUEST INTERNATIONAL
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  • Summary
  • Abstract
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  • Application Information

AI Technical Summary

Benefits of technology

[0023] The present invention is based on extensive testing of fragrance materials, both by consumer testing and by measurement of brain electrical activity particularly alpha wave activity measured by electroencephalography (EEG), and statistical analysis of the resulting data to classify the materials into different categories, namely relaxing fragrance materials or ingredients (R) that induce in subjects exposed to them positive, low activation moods and emotions, such as relaxation (i.e. relaxing properties), non-relaxing fragrance materials or ingredients (NR) that induce in subjects exposed to them negative, high activation moods or emotions (i.e. non-relaxing properties), neutral fragrance materials or ingredients (N) having a neutral effect in terms of relaxing properties. Other fragrance materials (of which there are around three to four thousand currently available commercially and used in perfume formulation) are designated as class M materials. Based on this classification of fragrance materials, the invention enables perfume compositions to be defined that are likely to induce in subjects exposed to them positive, low activation moods and emotions, such as relaxation. Such perfume compositions are referred to herein for convenience as relaxing perfumes. The definition of the perfume composition nevertheless provides sufficient freedom in formulation to permit consideration of the hedonic properties of the composition. The invention can thus enable formulation of perfume compositions that are relaxing and also have good hedonic properties.
[0024] The present invention describes how to formulate reliably novel fragrances which are likely to induce or be associated with positive, low activation moods and emotions, particularly relaxing effects. The effects are sufficiently pronounced that they can be measured reliably and reproducibly. The perfume compositions made according to the teachings disclosed herein can be hedonically pleasant, suitable for a wide range of consumer products, and of sufficient pleasantness / acceptability that they would be appropriate even if they did not possess added functionality. In addition, perfume compositions of the invention can be resilient to variation in the target consumer group (eg Japanese versus American) and have been found to be perceived as consistently relaxing / reassuring etc for consumers in England, France, USA and Japan.

Problems solved by technology

It has therefore been difficult for formulators reliably to use literature information to make effective fragrances.
The materials also are not optimised for their acceptability / hedonic effect but are often very basic odour combinations with little of the creativity found in more traditional fragrances.
However, there are folk remedies in which essential oils are used primarily for their smell and a mood state change may result.
Consumers are aware that aromatherapy products intend to enhance the sensory experience of the user, but there is no systematic teaching that can direct the perfumer to design products that would consistently provide this benefit.
Again, however, there is no teaching as to how to formulate products to achieve such benefits qualitatively or quantitatively with a reliable expectation of success.
Prior art perfumes do not exhibit the required robustness.
The results did not provide evidence for the postulated preferential link between olfaction and emotion (although preference scores for their odorants agreed with literature values), leading to the conclusion that the emotional content of smell cannot be predicted from preference.

Method used

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  • Perfume compositions
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Examples

Experimental program
Comparison scheme
Effect test

examples 7-8

[0058] Comparative Examples of Relaxing (R7) and Non-Relaxing (NR1) Perfume Compositions.

4 w / w % INGREDIENT Class R7 NR1 ACETYL CEDRENE NR 0.00 14.58 ALDEHYDE MNA NR 0.00 0.05 ALLYL AMYL GLYCOLATE (Q) NR 0.00 0.36 AMBERLYN SUPER PM (Q) NR 0.00 0.27 BANGALOL (Q) R 1.46 0.00 BENZYL ACETATE (Q) N 5.48 6.84 CARVONE LAEVO (Q) N 0.15 0.18 DIHYDRO MYRCENOL (Q) N 4.38 5.47 ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE R 1.68 0.00 FLOROSA R 13.14 0.00 HYDROXYCITRONELLAL N 7.30 9.11 JASMIN N 0.95 1.18 JASMOPYRANE FORTE (Q) N 3.94 4.92 LIGUSTRAL (Q) NR 0.00 0.55 LINALOL N 7.56 9.43 LINALYL ACETATE N 5.84 7.29 LYRAL NR 0.00 6.84 MDJ N 19.43 24.27 METHYL IONONE ALPHA ISO R 18.25 0.00 ORANGE OIL NR 0.00 2.28 PHENYL ETHYL ALCOHOL N 5.11 6.38 SILVANONE (Q) R 2.92 0.00 TERPINEOL ALPHA R 2.19 0.00 UNDECALACTONE GAMMA R 0.22 0.00 total: 100% 100% Sum R 39.86 0.00 Sum NR 0.00 24.93 Sum N 60.14 75.07 Sum M -- -- Ratio -- -- R / NR Ratio -- -- R / (M + NR)

example 9

[0059] Relaxing Perfume Composition (R8) Incorporating Significant Proportion of Class M Materials

5 w / w % Ingredient Class R8 ACETYL CEDRENE NR 1 ANTHER (Q) M 0.4 BANGALOL (Q) R 0.4 BEAUVERTATE (Q) M 0.3 BENZYL ACETATE N 2 BOURGEONAL(Q) NR 0.6 CEDAR LEAF OIL (10% in DPG) NR 0.6 ETHYL LINALOL R 9 ETHYL LINALYL ACETATE M 2 ETHYL SAFRANATE (Q) (10% in DPG) NR 0.2 FLOROSA (Q) R 18 GERANYL NITRILE (10% in DPG) NR 0.9 HEXYL CINNAMIC ALDEHYDE M 9 INDOLAL (10%) DPG M 0.1 JASMOPYRANE FORTE (Q) N 1 MEFROSOL (Q) NR 4.5 MENTHANYL ACETATE M 3 METHYL IONONE ALPHA ISO R 4 METHYL ISO EUGENOL M 0.3 MOSS OAKMOSS SYNTHETIC (10% in DPG) NR 0.2 OZONAL BASE (Q) M 0.3 PATCHOULI OIL ACID WASHED N 1 PHENYL ETHYL ALCOHOL N 4 PARTA-TERT.BUTYL CYCLOHEXYL M 3 ACETATE SILVANONE (Q) R 4 TERPINEOL ALPHA R 3 TETRAHYDROGERANIOL NR 1 TRASEOLIDE (Q) R 25 ULTRAVANIL (Q) (1% in DPG) R 0.7 YLANG-YLANG N 0.5 total 100 class analysis (excluding solvent) sum R 65.22 sum NR 7.42 sum N 18.64 sum M 18.72 Ratio: R / NR 8.79 Ratio...

example 10

[0060] Further Embodiments of Perfume Compositions (R9 to R12) in Accordance with the Invention, with Good Hedonic Properties.

6 w / w % INGREDIENT Class R9 R10 R11 R12 ACETYL CEDRENE NR 4 5 3.5 0 ANETHOLE R 0.1 0 0 0 ANISIC ALDEHYDE M 0 0 0.5 1 ANTHER M 0.8 0 0 0 BANGALOL (Q) R 0.5 0 0.5 1.4 BENZYL ACETATE N 4 0 0 1 BOURGEONAL (Q) NR 0.3 0.5 0.2 0.1 CINNAMIC ALCOHOL N 0 0 0 0.8 CIS 3 HEXENOL R 0.2 0 0 0 CIS 3 HEXENYL ACETATE M 0.2 0 0 0 CITRONELLOL NR 0 0 2 1.5 DECALACTONE GAMMA N 0 0.3 0 0 DEWFRUIT BASE (Q) M 0.1 0 0 0 DIHYDROEUGENOL N 0 0.3 0 0.1 DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL Solv 6.6 25.6 10 9.6 ETHYL LINALOL R 10 4 1.5 0 ETHYL LINALYL ACETATE M 5 0 3.5 1 ETHYL SAFRANATE (10% in DPG) NR / Solv 0 0.2 0 0.6 ETHYL VANILLIN M 0 0 0 0.5 FLOROSA (Q) R 15 15.2 3 10 GERANYL NITRILE (10% in DPG) NR / Solv 2 0.2 0 0 HELIOTROPIN NR 0 0 0 0.9 HEXYL CINNAMIC ALDEHYDE M 0 5 2 0 HEXYL SALICYLATE NR 9 0 0 1 INDOLAL (10% in DPG) M / Solv 0.3 0.9 0 0 IONONE M 0 1.5 0 0 ISO AMBOIS SUPER (Q) M 0 0 0 15 JASMATONE M 0.1...

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Abstract

A perfume composition comprises: e) at least about 25% by weight in total of at least five selected relaxing fragrance materials (R); f) optionally up to about 45% by weight in total of non-relaxing fragrance materials (NR), provided that the ratio by weight of R to NR is at least 0.75; g) optionally up to about 75% by weight in total of neutral fragrance materials (N); h) optionally up to about 25% by weight of other fragrance materials (M) provided that the weight ratio R to (M+NR) at least 0.75; and wherein all percentages are based on total weight of the fragrance materials consisting the perfume composition.

Description

[0001] This invention relates to perfume compositions which aim to promote relaxed and related mood states in subjects, particularly humans. The invention also concerns methods of delivering positive mood benefits or relaxation benefits to a subject.BACKGROUND TO THE INVENTION[0002] It has long been known that fragrance materials and essential oils can promote feelings of relaxation and well-being. More recently these materials have been used in cosmetic products to similar effect per se and to enhance the effects of other materials / actives in the products. Many of these products rely on the use of simple mixes of essential oils to provide this benefit, eg lavender, jasmin oil, camomile and ylang-ylang. Many of the materials have been reported to promote different mood states, eg lavender has been reported to be both relaxing (see Torii et al in chapter 7, "Perfumery: the Psychology and Biology of Fragrances", S V Toller and G Dodd (eds), Chapman and Hall, 1991 reprint) and activati...

Claims

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Application Information

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Patent Type & Authority Applications(United States)
IPC IPC(8): A61L9/00C11B9/00C11D3/50
CPCA61L9/00C11D3/50C11B9/00
Inventor BEHAN, JOHN MARTINPERRING, KEITH DOUGLASSMALL, LESMCNULTY, DAVIDRICHARDSON, ANNE
Owner QUEST INTERNATIONAL
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