System and method for not-sew manufacturing

Abstract

A method and system for making garments is disclosed that does not require sewing and is amenable to continuous manufacturing. This method and system makes possible a seamless garment finish that is more comfortable than a finish having seams and other imperfections due to the need to tuck / sew edges and joints. The disclosed seamless technology employs a thin film of adhesive that is preferably an ether-based polyurethane although other comparable adhesives are acceptable. This adhesive is prelaminated on at least one surface prior to lamination to another surface under conditions to control adhesion, stretch, breathability, and longevity of the garment. Lamination also allows for a seamless finish without fraying at the edges resulting in even displacement of pressure against the skin of the wearer for greater comfort. Disclosed seamless manufacturing techniques can be applied in an iterative fashion to manufacture inserts and support elements incorporated into laminated garments.

Description

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS [0001] This application, claiming priority from the pending provisional U.S. Patent Application No. 60 / 412,674 filed on Sep. 19, 2002, is also a continuation-in-part of co-pending non-provisional U.S. patent application Ser. No. 10 / 001,286 filed on Nov. 30, 2001, which includes a claim of priority to the U.S. Provisional Application 60 / 330,119 filed on Oct. 16, 2001, U.S. patent application Ser. No. 09 / 569,004 filed on May 11, 2000 and Ser. No. 09 / 690,800 filed on Oct. 17, 2000, which in turn claims priority to the U.S. patent application Ser. No. 09 / 309,441 filed on May 11, 1999 and which issued as U.S. Pat. No. 6,132,288. All of these applications and patents are herein incorporated by reference in their entirety. FIELD OF THE INVENTION [0002] The present invention relates generally to manufacturing of garments via fabric lamination and an intermediate pre-laminating step and without requiring stitching. More specifically, the laminate fabri...

AI Technical Summary

Benefits of technology

[0017] A method and system for designing and making garments is disclosed without requiring sewing to either join or finish one or more edges. This method and system, referred to as Not-Sew™ technology makes possible several advantages properties. For instance, a seamless garment finish is more comfortable than a finish having seams and other imperfections due to the need to tuck / sew edges and joints. Seamless undergarments are less apparent under close fitting outer clothing, thus, creating a more pleasant appearance and greater aesthetic appeal. In addition, lamination allows for the edges of a garment to remain unsewn by providing a fraying resistant seamless finish due to the presence of the adhesive. This results in even displacement of pressure against the skin of the wearer and greater comfort than other seamless garments. Not-Sew™ manufacturing techniques are more efficient and less costly than traditional sewing techniques. The Not-Sew™ technology employs a film of adhesive that is preferably an ether-based polyurethane although other adhesives are acceptable. This adhesive is prelaminated and laminated under conditions to control adhesion, stretch, breathability, and longevity of the garment.

[0018] The disclosed invention further encompasses efficient manufacturing techniques for manufacturing of laminated garments. These techniques include continuous production from rolls, including “slit” roles, of material rather than a “sheeted” method using small pieces of fabric and material. Such techniques reduce or eliminate the time for repeated loading and unloading of sheets. Continuous production techniques include cutting of patterns to yield a greater number of garments and / or undergarments from a given amount of material by reducing wastage. In addition, the invention encompasses the manufacturing of brassieres with large cup sizes, such as cup sizes greater than 38 C, and even cup sizes as large as 44 DD. The larger cup sizes are believed to be made possible, without intending to be bound by any theory, by the providing of a lining that also acts as a heat buffer, extra support and an extra layer of adhesives by the method and system disclosed by the invention. The invention also encompasses brassieres with inserts to make push-up brassieres for an improved appearance.

Problems solved by technology

The utilization of the silk screen for applying the powdered adhesive limits the manufacturing speed and overall efficiencies in the fabrication of such a laminate and the resultant undergarments.

The flowing of the plastic into the fabric results in an undesired stiffening of the fabric, changing its hand, a technical term for the feel, softness and appeal of the fabric, resulting in irritation to the skin of the wearer.

Brassieres present additional manufacturing challenges due to issues related to comfort, appearance and marketing.

Sheer or unlined brassieres have no lining whatsoever often resulting in nipples showing through, a quality that is often regarded with disfavor by many, but not all, customers.

Padded brassieres are almost always sewn with the undesirable feel of sewn edges and inserts.

Thus, a manufacturing challenge is to make a lined brassiere without uncomfortable seams that is economical to make, perspiration resistant, does not discolor with use or light and still provide a good hand and hanger appeal.

These attempts fail at providing the lightness associated with lined brassieres while requiring the use of plastic cups and the like.

It should also be noted that making large cup sizes is a problem with the molding technique described above.

In general, it is not possible to economically make cup sizes larger than a size 38 due to problems associated with material thinning, fraying, and other quality issues.

This method is however, not suitable for providing cups in a completed bra since the pads are molded first, and then assembled into the garment later.

The reason for this limitation is that once the underwire has been placed into the bra, e.g., as channeling, it is almost impossible to place the bra within the male and female molds in a manner that will not damage the garment by placing stress on the underwire.

The molds tend to press against the wires in a manner that unacceptably increases the likelihood of tearing the outer fabric.

The use of such an adhesive web is undesirable from the perspective of low-cost, high quality manufacturing due to the required handling during manufacturing, the desired stability of the adhesive upon repeated exposure to moisture and perspiration and introduction of pores without employing excessively thick adhesive layers.

In view of the above discussion it is clear that laminated brassieres are difficult to manufacture due to the various restrictions and desirable properties.

For instance, this task is made difficult due to the presence of support wires in channeling in laminated brassieres that further requires that any cup molding step not stress or stretch the fabric excessively or damage the garment irreparably.

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