Process of making and using composition containing oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle and maleic anhydride copolymer

a technology of hydrophilic active principle and composition, which is applied in the field of making and using compositions containing oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principles and maleic anhydride copolymers, can solve the problems of easy decomposition on contact with water, conflicting with the desired effect, and inability to be stable in aqueous medium,

Inactive Publication Date: 2004-09-09
LOREAL SA
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  • Summary
  • Abstract
  • Description
  • Claims
  • Application Information

AI Technical Summary

Problems solved by technology

However, some of these active principles exhibit the disadvantage of being unstable in an aqueous medium and of easily decomposing on contact with water, in particular because of oxidation phenomena.
They thus rapidly lose their activity over time and this instability conflicts with the desired effectiveness.
Unfortunately, because of its chemical structure (of .alpha.-ketolactone), ascorbic acid is highly sensitive to certain environmental parameters and in particular to oxidation phenomena.
These solutions have disadvantages with regard to the cost and the complexity of the manufacturing operations and significant restrictions with regard to use.
However, these solutions exhibit the disadvantage of resulting in sticky formulations, the cosmetic quality of which is difficult to improve.
Furthermore, the presence of a high concentration of these compounds can lead to phenomena of irritation.
A major disadvantage of such solutions results from the lack of freshness on application.

Method used

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Examples

Experimental program
Comparison scheme
Effect test

example 1

Accelerated Storage Test

[0086] The aim of this test is to study the decomposition of an oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle after storing for two months at 45.degree. C. Various solutions were prepared and their compositions are collated in the following table:

1 TABLE I Compositions Ascorbic (in water) acid Polymer 1 Polymer 2 Solution A 15% -- --(Control 1) Solution B 15% 1% -- Solution C 15% -- 1% Solution D 5% -- -- (Control 2) Solution E 5% 1% -- Solution F 5% -- 1%

[0087] All the solutions are brought to pH 6 with 8.9 mol / l KOH.

[0088] The percentages of the polymers are given as active material.

[0089] Polymer 1: Styrene / maleic anhydride (50 / 50) copolymer, in the form of an ammonium salt at 30% in water, sold under the reference SMA1000H.RTM. by Atofina.

[0090] Polymer 2: Styrene / maleic anhydride (50 / 50) copolymer, in the form of a sodium salt, sold under the reference SMA1000HNa.RTM. by Atofina.

[0091] The degree of decomposition measured is given by the ratio:

(C.sub....

example 2

Effect of the Composition According to the Invention on the Differentiation of Keratinocytes

[0102] Principle of the Method:

[0103] The subject consists in evaluating the effect of the combination of ascorbic acid and of a copolymer according to the invention on the differentiation of keratinocytes by measuring the transglutaminase (TGk) activity of cultured human epidermal keratinocytes. The TGk is a marker of the terminal differentiation of the keratinocyte and of the formation of the cornified envelope (corneocyte).

[0104] Human epidermal keratinocytes used at the 3rd passage are inoculated in a 96-well plate at a density of 10 000 cells per well and are cultured in complete SFM medium (Gibco 170005034, EGF and pituitary extract). After preincubating for 24 hours, the cells are brought into contact with the product (tested at 30 .mu.M) for 48 hours. The cells are subsequently washed and then treated with ultrasound on ice in Tris / EDTA, pH 8, buffer. The membrane enzyme is extracted ...

example 3

Effect of the Composition According to the Invention on the Synthesis of Epidermal Ceramides

[0109] Protocol:

[0110] The study is carried out on a reconstructed epidermis in vitro after culturing for 7 days.

[0111] Before application of the combination of ascorbic acid and of a copolymer according to the invention, the reconstructed epidermis is incubated overnight with .sup.14C acetate (2 .mu.Ci / ml), in order to monitor and quantify the synthesis of the epidermal lipids synthesized during the contact period.

[0112] The test solutions are introduced between the 8th and 14th day of culturing.

[0113] The ascorbic acid concentration is 50 .mu.g / ml.

[0114] Analysis of the Lipids:

[0115] At the end of the incubation, the epidermis equivalent is detached to form its collagen support.

[0116] The extraction and the analysis of the epidermal lipids by HPTLC (high performance thin layer chromatography) are carried out according to the protocol described in M. Ponec (1991, Adv. Lipid Res., 24: 83-117)...

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Abstract

The invention relates to the use of a composition for, e.g., promoting the synthesis of the epidermal ceramides and / or for improving the barrier function of the skin, the composition containing at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and its compounds and at least one maleic anhydride copolymer. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for moisturizing the skin comprising the application to the skin of a composition as defined above.

Description

REFERENCE TO PRIOR APPLICATIONS[0001] This application claims priority to U.S. provisional application No. 60 / 394,255, filed Jul. 9, 2002, and to French patent application 0207638, filed Jun. 20, 2002, both of which are incorporated herein by reference.[0002] The present invention relates to the use, preferably the cosmetic and / or dermatological use, of a composition comprising at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle and at least one maleic anhydride copolymer in a physiologically acceptable medium comprising an aqueous phase. The invention compositions are especially useful for, e.g., promoting the synthesis of the epidermal ceramides and / or for improving the barrier function of the skin, for combating roughness of the skin and / or maintaining and / or improving the radiance of the complexion, and for moisturizing the skin.DISCUSSION OF THE BACKGROUND[0003] It is known to introduce, into cosmetic compositions, various active principles intended to contribute spec...

Claims

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Application Information

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Patent Type & Authority Applications(United States)
IPC IPC(8): A61K8/02A61K8/06A61K8/11A61K8/00A61K8/30A61K8/31A61K8/33A61K8/34A61K8/35A61K8/36A61K8/365A61K8/368A61K8/37A61K8/40A61K8/41A61K8/42A61K8/44A61K8/46A61K8/49A61K8/55A61K8/58A61K8/60A61K8/63A61K8/67A61K8/68A61K8/72A61K8/73A61K8/81A61K8/92A61K8/96A61K8/97A61K8/98A61K31/375A61K45/00A61K47/32A61P17/00A61P17/16A61P39/06A61P43/00A61Q5/00A61Q5/08A61Q17/00A61Q17/04A61Q19/00A61Q19/02A61Q19/08C07D307/62
CPCA61K8/11A61Q19/08A61K8/4973A61K8/676A61K8/8164A61K8/8182A61K2800/412A61K2800/52A61K2800/522A61Q5/08A61Q17/00A61Q17/04A61Q19/00A61Q19/007A61Q19/02A61K8/347A61P17/00A61P17/16A61P39/06A61P43/00
Inventor BIATRY, BRUNO
Owner LOREAL SA
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