Cosmetic and/or dermatological use of a composition containing at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle and at least one N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer

a technology of n-vinyl limicidine and active principle, which is applied in the direction of biocide, plant growth regulator, make-up, etc., can solve the problems of easy decomposition on contact with water, conflict with desired effect, and inability to oxidize in water, so as to improve the synthesis of ceramides and skin barrier function, improve the differentiation of keratinocytes, and improve cosmetic properties

Inactive Publication Date: 2003-07-03
LOREAL SA
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  • Summary
  • Abstract
  • Description
  • Claims
  • Application Information

AI Technical Summary

Benefits of technology

0014] One object of the present invention is to provide a composition comprising an oxidation-sensitive active principle preferably selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and its derivatives, which exhibits good cosmetic properties, both with regard to touch and with regard to tolerance, the preservation of which over time does not require specific precautions, and which retains the activity of the said active principle in improving the synthesis of ceramides and the barrier function of the skin and in improving the differentiation of keratinocytes, among other benefits and attributes.

Problems solved by technology

However, some of these active principles exhibit the disadvantage of being unstable in an aqueous medium and of easily decomposing on contact with water, in particular because of oxidation phenomena.
They thus rapidly lose their activity over time and this instability conflicts with the desired effectiveness.
Unfortunately, because of its chemical structure (of .alpha.-ketolactone), ascorbic acid is highly sensitive to certain environmental parameters and in particular to oxidation phenomena.
These solutions have disadvantages with regard to the cost and the complexity of the manufacturing operations and significant restrictions with regard to use.
However, these solutions exhibit the disadvantage of resulting in sticky formulations, the cosmetic quality of which is difficult to improve.
Furthermore, the presence of a high concentration of these compounds can lead to phenomena of irritation.
A major disadvantage of such solutions results from the lack of freshness on application.

Method used

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Examples

Experimental program
Comparison scheme
Effect test

example 1

[0092] Accelerated Storage Test.

[0093] The aim of this test is to study the decomposition of an oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle after storing for two months at 45.degree. C. Various solutions were prepared and their compositions are collated in the following table:

1TABLE I Solution A Compositions (in water) (Control) Solution B Solution C Solution D Ascorbic acid 15% 15% 15% 15% Polymer 1 -- 1% -- --Polymer 2 -- -- 1% --Polymer 3 -- -- -- 1%

[0094] All the solutions are brought to pH 6 with 8.9 mol / l KOH.

[0095] The percentages of the polymers are given as active material.

[0096] Polymer 1: Vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole (50 / 50) copolymer sold under the reference Luvitec VPI 55K72W of BASF (Weight-average molecular mass 1.2.times.10.sup.6).

[0097] Polymer 2: Vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole (50 / 50) copolymer sold under the reference Luvitec VPI 55K18P of BASF (Weight-average molecular mass 10 000).

[0098] Polymer 3: Polyvinylpyrrolidone sold under the reference Kollidon ...

example 2

[0110] Effect of the Composition According to the Invention on the Differentiation of Keratinocytes

[0111] Principle of the Method:

[0112] The study consists in evaluating the effect of the combination of ascorbic acid and of a polymer or copolymer according to the invention on the differentiation of keratinocytes by measuring the transglutaminase activity (TGk) of cultured human epidermal keratinocytes. The TGk is a marker of the terminal differentiation of the keratinocyte and of the formation of the cornified envelope (corneocyte).

[0113] Human epidermal keratinocytes used at the 3rd passage are inoculated in a 96-well plate at a density of 10 000 cells per well and are cultured in complete SFM medium (Gibco 170005034, EGF and pituitary extract). After preincubating for 24 hours, the cells are brought into contact with the product (tested at 30 .mu.M) for 48 hours. The cells are subsequently washed and then sonicated on ice in Tris / EDTA, pH 8 buffer. The membrane enzyme is extracted...

example 3

[0118] O / W Fluid

[0119] The following composition is prepared in a way conventional to persons skilled in the art.

3 Methyl glucose sesquistearate 2 g Stearyl alcohol and ceteareth-20 2 g Cyclohexasiloxane 10 g Propyl paraben 0.1 g Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil 6 g Shorea robusta seed butter 2 g Water 13.85 g Methylparaben 0.25 g PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate 2 g Ascorbic acid 5 g Potassium hydroxide (50% solution) 2.97 g Vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole copolymer 1 g Water 41.03 g Polyacrylamide and C.sub.13-14 isoparaffin and Laureth-7 1 g Xanthan gum 0.25 g Chlorohexidine digluconate 0.05 g Water 10.5 g

[0120] A soft and fresh fluid is obtained, which fluid improves the appearance of the skin by virtue of better moisturizing and in which fluid ascorbic acid has good stability.

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Abstract

The invention relates to the use of a composition containing, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium comprising an aqueous phase, at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and its derivatives and at least one non-crosslinked N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer, the active principle and the polymer or copolymer both being present in the aqueous phase, for promoting the synthesis of epidermal ceramides and/or for improving the barrier function of the skin, among other uses.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic and / or dermatological use of a composition comprising at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle and at least one N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer in a physiologically acceptable medium comprising an aqueous phase.[0002] It is known to introduce, into cosmetic compositions, various active principles intended to contribute specific treatments to the skin and / or hair. However, some of these active principles exhibit the disadvantage of being unstable in an aqueous medium and of easily decomposing on contact with water, in particular because of oxidation phenomena. They thus rapidly lose their activity over time and this instability conflicts with the desired effectiveness.[0003] Attempts have thus been made for a long time to formulate ascorbic acid or vitamin C because of its numerous beneficial properties. In particular, ascorbic acid stimulates the synthesis of the connective tissue and in particular of co...

Claims

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Application Information

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Patent Type & Authority Applications(United States)
IPC IPC(8): A61K8/00A61K8/02A61K8/03A61K8/06A61K8/11A61K8/18A61K8/30A61K8/31A61K8/33A61K8/34A61K8/36A61K8/365A61K8/368A61K8/37A61K8/40A61K8/41A61K8/42A61K8/44A61K8/46A61K8/49A61K8/55A61K8/58A61K8/60A61K8/63A61K8/67A61K8/68A61K8/72A61K8/73A61K8/81A61K8/84A61K8/90A61K8/92A61K8/96A61K8/97A61K31/375A61K31/695A61K31/787A61K45/00A61P17/16A61P43/00A61Q1/00A61Q5/08A61Q17/04A61Q19/00A61Q19/02A61Q19/08
CPCA61K8/676A61K8/817A61Q19/08A61Q5/08A61Q19/02A61K2800/522A61P17/00A61P17/16A61P43/00A61K8/67A61K8/84A61K8/90
Inventor BIATRY, BRUNOLHEUREUX, ERIC
Owner LOREAL SA
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